The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

[aristoi bcn]

btw, a bespoke Edward Green shoo.
image sharing sites

And no, it is not G&G bespoke like so many igents claim. Look at the shoo trees.

But it was made when Tony Gaziano was leading the bespoke department of EG.

 

[Thruth]

Thruth these might be up your alley

I've been to their shop in Spokane. I don't like their Arch-Ease last construction and how it feels when trying it on. At least for me it tells me there would be a wicked break in period. They have also redone their line a bit and have deleted the Farmer-Rancher which was a nice-looking boot.

Their 9338 last is nice because it has a shorter vamp. But I was told their craftsmen don't like making boots on that last. Go figure.

 

[fxh]

What is arch ease?

 

[Thruth]

What is arch ease?

They have a curved footbed keeping the arch raised up. Kind of like a cowboy boot but it has always felt too rigid and raised when I've tried on their boots.

 

[fxh]

Oh - RMW Cuban Heels have that.
I used to wear them and they were most comfortable thing I had before I got orthotics. Still got 2 x pair of RMWs in Cuban Heels

 

[The Shooman]

This is an excellent video of Dominic Casey giving a class on how he measures a foot for bespoke shoos. You can tell by the way he talks that he has years of experience and knows exactly what he is talking about. Truly impressive!

 

[Thruth]

This is an excellent video of Dominic Casey giving a class on how he measures a foot for bespoke shoos. You can tell by the way he talks that he has years of experience and knows exactly what he is talking about. Truly impressive!

Dominic is a great guy, incredibly personable and does know what he is talking about. I worked with him for my Cleverely's. At the time he was also teaching a shoe making course at a polytechnic so its nice to see he has moved into that area

 

[The Shooman]

Dominic is a great guy, incredibly personable and does know what he is talking about. I worked with him for my Cleverely's. At the time he was also teaching a shoe making course at a polytechnic so its nice to see he has moved into that area

what cleverleys do you have?

 

[Thruth]

what cleverleys do you have?

It was model #24 from the old catalogue.

A derby with a hand sewn wingcap in brown calf. It's not in the new catalogue of designs. I don't have pics and I'm not in the office to take a pic of them.

Can't find a pic on the web from the old catalogue.

 

[Thruth]

what cleverleys do you have?

Ok, just for you The Shooman . To be honest, I've soured on chisel toe lasts

 

[The Shooman]

You've got a very unique taste in things Truth. An unusual design and no close cut waist like igents prefer to have, and you even have nails put into the heel (Cleverley like to have no nails in the heels of their bespoke).

Truth, what job did you do to help Dominic?

 

[Thruth]

You've got a very unique taste in things Truth. An unusual design and no close cut waist like igents prefer to have, and you even have nails put into the heel (Cleverley like to have no nails in the heels of their bespoke).

Truth, what job did you do to help Dominic?

So true Shooey, it's funny how tastes change over a decade. If I were to do it again, it of course would be a boot. But if it were a shoe it would be a country shoe with a non-chisel toe in grain on a double sole or Dainite with a more conventional cap toe.

Cotswold

I like their Norweger

I liked the nail pattern so I asked for it.

All I mean by working with Dominic is that he fitted me and made my last.

 

[The Shooman]

So true Shooey, it's funny how tastes change over a decade. If I were to do it again, it of course would be a boot. But if it were a shoe it would be a country shoe with a non-chisel toe in grain on a double sole or Dainite with a more conventional cap toe.

Cotswold
View attachment 30273
I like their Norweger
View attachment 30274

I liked the nail pattern so I asked for it.

All I mean by working with Dominic is that he fitted me and made my last.

I'd love a few bespoke casual derby too. The cotswold would be just the ticket. I was considering something similar, but sadly Cleverley never came to Oz again.

I slipped over in the wet this morning and scraped my shoos and knee and ended up laying on the wet ground in the carpark. The bonus was that my Vass budapester brogues got a light graze on the toe and side that has left the most awesome natural antiquing possible. Now my Vass look incredible. Nothing compares with natural antiquing. Lucky l wasn't wearing my expensive cords today. I was also lucky l didn't fall in front of a car...easy to get the skull crushed when a man falls over and his head goes under the wheel of a car. Thank goodness it didn't happen.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

Fugashin Saigon:

https://www.instagram.com/fugashin_saigon/?hl=en

 

[The Shooman]

Tony Gaziano talks about making their own knives out of hacksaw blades. The top makers don't buy knives because they are not as good as hand made ones. An old Russian cordwainer told me exactly the same thing, and he told me that if l trained with him he would teach me intensely for 3 months just learning how to sharpen a knife. Knowing how to sharpen a knife is a key skill.

He also told me some of the strongest glues used is made from egg yolk. You can glue a sole on with egg yolk and it will not come apart! People have even build houses using egg yolk and they are some of the strongest houses.


Kirby gets all the interviews with all the big guns because his videos are great quality and gets views. He is very lucky, and we are very lucky because there are few good shoo videos online. Kirby has filled a much needed gap.

 

[FriendCustomer]

Kirby has filled a much needed gap.

kirby has been filling the gap between your ass cheeks each time you watch his videos.

 

[aristoi bcn]

 

[Grand Potentate]

any suggestions on an alternative for this chelsea?

https://www.allenedmonds.com/shoes/...t/SF7522.html?dwvar_SF7522_color=7522#start=3

someone else bought one in a group i'm in and the quality control is atrocious. AE has really gone down hill. regardless, he likes the color and the style.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

any suggestions on an alternative for this chelsea?

https://www.allenedmonds.com/shoes/...t/SF7522.html?dwvar_SF7522_color=7522#start=3

someone else bought one in a group i'm in and the quality control is atrocious. AE has really gone down hill. regardless, he likes the color and the style.

Not a fan of the colour. The best shoemaker here in the Netherlands is Greve, like the others (Van Bommel, et al), they make some cheap and nasty stuff, but they do make some good quality shoes amongst them Chelsea boots:

 

[Thruth]

were they made from left over bits of other shoes?

 

[Thruth]

any suggestions on an alternative for this chelsea?

https://www.allenedmonds.com/shoes/...t/SF7522.html?dwvar_SF7522_color=7522#start=3

someone else bought one in a group i'm in and the quality control is atrocious. AE has really gone down hill. regardless, he likes the color and the style.

In the same price range:

Does he want that colour?

Carmina ($423 USD on their website)

RM Williams are $404 USD

He can do MTO and get the tan colour for $600

Can get a RTW pair of RM Williams for $500 at Pediwear

https://www.pediwear.co.uk/rm-williams/products/9010.php

Yanko are $369 and comparable to Carmina

Crockett & Jones for $497 at Pediwear

https://www.pediwear.co.uk/crockettandjones/products/250.php

RM Williiams Comfort Craftsman $387

https://www.pediwear.co.uk/rm-williams/products/7562.php

 

[spencer096]

someone else bought one in a group i'm in and the quality control is atrocious. AE has really gone down hill. regardless, he likes the color and the style.

what was wrong with them?

ive got a few pairs of AE all from before the famous footwear buyout, and didnt get any with QC issues. wondering if this is a more recent thing.

 

[fxh]

any suggestions on an alternative for this chelsea?

https://www.allenedmonds.com/shoes/...t/SF7522.html?dwvar_SF7522_color=7522#start=3

someone else bought one in a group i'm in and the quality control is atrocious. AE has really gone down hill. regardless, he likes the color and the style.

I don’t like them much. They seem dearer tham RMs but not as nice looking or as well made. What do you want Chelseas for- knocking around street wear or dress?

 

[Grand Potentate]

In the same price range:

Does he want that colour?

Carmina ($423 USD on their website)

RM Williams are $404 USD

View attachment 30411

He can do MTO and get the tan colour for $600

Can get a RTW pair of RM Williams for $500 at Pediwear

https://www.pediwear.co.uk/rm-williams/products/9010.php

View attachment 30412

Yanko are $369 and comparable to Carmina

Crockett & Jones for $497 at Pediwear

https://www.pediwear.co.uk/crockettandjones/products/250.php

View attachment 30413
RM Williiams Comfort Craftsman $387

https://www.pediwear.co.uk/rm-williams/products/7562.php

View attachment 30414

Color definitely. Wants a dressier boot as well

what was wrong with them?

ive got a few pairs of AE all from before the famous footwear buyout, and didnt get any with QC issues. wondering if this is a more recent thing.

Seems to be a recent thing. Lots of complaints on reddit about QC. Here's a pic:

I don’t like them much. They seem dearer tham RMs but not as nice looking or as well made. What do you want Chelseas for- knocking around street wear or dress?

Dressier. Not nearly as well made or as nice but its hard to find a decent chelsea locally here.

 

[Thruth]

Color definitely. Wants a dressier boot as well

Seems to be a recent thing. Lots of complaints on reddit about QC. Here's a pic:

View attachment 30415


Dressier. Not nearly as well made or as nice but its hard to find a decent chelsea locally here.

Well he has some options in the colour. C&J is almost the same price as AE retail? The RM Williams. They are wholecuts for Christ sake.

Or send him up to JL in Miami

 

[Grand Potentate]

Well he has some options in the colour. C&J is almost the same price as AE retail? The RM Williams. They are wholecuts for Christ sake.

Or send him up to JL in Miami

i think he's out in california. i'll pass along your choices.

 

[fxh]

With the Oz dollar at the moment and cheap air fares he could fly out to Oz for 25% of the price of Crompton s cheapest shoe and buy a few pairs of RMWs

 

[MES]

The Shooman I just spent a few days in Vienna - some amazing rounded brogues were on display in the shops, for seemingly decent prices. Are they likely all tourist traps/slightly crap though? The same shops had an odd preponderance of overpriced Loake shoes too, so my suspicions were raised...

 

[FriendCustomer]

The Shooman I just spent a few days in Vienna - some amazing rounded brogues were on display in the shops, for seemingly decent prices. Are they likely all tourist traps/slightly crap though? The same shops had an odd preponderance of overpriced Loake shoes too, so my suspicions were raised...

W walker

 

[Dropbear]

When did Red Wing make Gentleman’s Travellers in wide sizes??

 

[Thruth]

When did Red Wing make Gentleman’s Travellers in wide sizes??

The Gentleman Traveller is now the Beckman model 9016. It comes in EE. So do the other Beckman models.

 

[Grand Potentate]

When did Red Wing make Gentleman’s Travellers in wide sizes??

The Gentleman Traveller is now the Beckman model 9016. It comes in EE. So do the other Beckman models.

That beckman last is pretty narrow in the toebox. Not a comfortable fit in the EE

 

[Dropbear]

Hmmm ... well I see Wolverine are also now doing their own mix n match options that lets you do a GT (cxl8 and vibram half sole).

 

[Grand Potentate]

Hmmm ... well I see Wolverine are also now doing their own mix n match options that lets you do a GT (cxl8 and vibram half sole).

DO those come in wides? Thats always been the issue with them.

 

[Dropbear]

DO those come in wides? Thats always been the issue with them.

EEE baby!

I still have a pair from ten years ago - before there were any options aside from black or brown. They are very accommodating for my wide feet.

 

[Grand Potentate]

EEE baby!

I still have a pair from ten years ago - before there were any options aside from black or brown. They are very accommodating for my wide feet.

i have two myself. its been ongoing for years now that the only two boots in the 1000 mile collection are the basic black and brown 1000 mile standard models. interesting how they're letting you customize it all the way around. good find. i've always wanted a pair of the tan color but it looks like 'squash' is the closest you can get. what combo are you putting together?

 

[Dropbear]

I’m looking at the tan as well. If I didn’t already have a dark brown pair, I’d be ordering the cxl8s.

Actually, I was inspired enough by this to pull out the saddle soap and a soft brush last night. My old boots are nearly black, with years of sweat, obernsauf oil and wax polish build-up. I’m going to see if I can lighten the colour back closer to original.

 

[Dropbear]

Speaking of wide boots, what is the deal Grant Stone?

Some of these look nice: https://www.grantstoneboot.com/collections/e-widths-styles

 

[Thruth]

Speaking of wide boots, what is the deal Grant Stone?

Some of these look nice: https://www.grantstoneboot.com/collections/e-widths-styles

The Grant Stone story began and continues in Xiamen, China. Co-founder Wyatt Gilmore spent 8 years in the Xiamen factory, learning the craft and Chinese culture en route to creating Grant Stone in 2016.

Together, we identified the opportunity to build Goodyear welt footwear using premium leather components, direct to consumer.

 

[Dropbear]

Ahhh, ok. Not at that price point!

Not sure if it's really appropriate for this 'all inclusive' thread, but I was issued a pair of Belleville C390 boots for work deployments recently - they are light, comfortable and cool. I'm really impressed with modern military boot technology. A lot has changed since my military days.