The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

My visit to Berluti in Melbourne

I went to Berluti today and my expectations were completely surpassed on every level. The staff were down to earth and normal and the shoos had off-the-scale beauty. They were far better than l expected them to be with a decent sole thickness. The patinas were amazing and the purple and heavily antiqued bluish/green wholecuts blew my mind sky high. I was completely wowed by the shoos. For me the colours and patinas were simply incredible. On the website the shoes look alittle junky, but in real life they look so awesome. I tried some pairs on. Some fantastic navy alligator loafers too. The Chinese are the main customers and know all about Berluti (only 5 stores in China) where-as the Japanese aren't showing much interest here (14 stores in Japan).

I have zero $$$$ in my shoo kitty right now, so l better start building it up because l want to get one of the big boy bespokes. There is an opportunity to fill a 14 year dream of owning French bespoke, so l don't want to waste shoo money pissing around playing the small boys game. I am here to play the big game...the game of the biggest boys in town, but by golly by gee, it's gonna cost me a pretty penny. But then again, if you want to reach the top in the shoo world and be the king you've gotta make the sacrifice to reach the highest levels. I've always wanted the French bespoke over everything else, so now is the time to end my shoo career on the highest of notes. 7 people so far on the list for bespoke.

The 2 eyelet derby is something l am seriously considering. Nothing too extreme like Corthay, but something similar to these:
Bespoke 2 eyelet derby - Yohei Fukuda.webp
Bespoke 2 eyelet derby - SEIJI McCARTHY.webp


I used to daydream for many years about the Berluti 2 eyelet derby in the Vass book, that shoo blew me away for many years and kept me awake at night, but l don't want it too extreme. I really love my John Lobb 2 eyelet derby, it is the finest otr derby l have ever seen and blows my mind everytime l see it, so l want to get something similar but even better and far more eye popping, here it is, the 2 eyelet derby by BIG Johnny Lobb:
John Lobb 2 eyelet derby.webp John Lobb 2 eyelet derby 1.webp

My bespoke derby will be in either a blueish/green or a fire engine red with a heavy patina. Truly though, after seeing the Berluti colour book today l wish l had a pair in every single colour.

To finish off, here is the infamous Berluti bespoke 1 eyelet derby to show off how unique Berluti are.
Bespoke 2 eyelet derby - Berluti.webp



With Cleverley there were limitations of colour, but now the sky is the limit. All the big boys work at Berluti too, Delos and many ex John Lobb Paris blokes, all legends in their own lifetimes!!!


Late edit: I want to get a red colour just like this, but even more of a patina.
 
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The Shooman said:
My visit to Berluti in Melbourne

I went to Berluti today and my expectations were completely surpassed on every level. The staff were down to earth and normal and the shoos had off-the-scale beauty. They were far better than l expected them to be with a decent sole thickness. The patinas were amazing and the purple and heavily antiqued bluish/green wholecuts blew my mind sky high. I was completely wowed by the shoos. For me the colours and patinas were simply incredible. On the website the shoes look alittle junky, but in real life they look so awesome. I tried some pairs on. Some fantastic navy alligator loafers too. The Chinese are the main customers and know all about Berluti (only 5 stores in China) where-as the Japanese aren't showing much interest here (14 stores in Japan).

I have zero $$$$ in my shoo kitty right now, so l better start building it up because l want to get one of the big boy bespokes. There is an opportunity to fill a 14 year dream of owning French bespoke, so l don't want to waste shoo money pissing around playing the small boys game. I am here to play the big game...the game of the biggest boys in town, but by golly by gee, it's gonna cost me a pretty penny. But then again, if you want to reach the top in the shoo world and be the king you've gotta make the sacrifice to reach the highest levels. I've always wanted the French bespoke over everything else, so now is the time to end my shoo career on the highest of notes. 7 people so far on the list for bespoke.

The 2 eyelet derby is something l am seriously considering. Nothing too extreme like Corthay, but something similar to these:
View attachment 29065 View attachment 29066

I used to daydream for many years about the Berluti 2 eyelet derby in the Vass book, that shoo blew me away for many years and kept me awake at night, but l don't want it too extreme. I really love my John Lobb 2 eyelet derby, it is the finest otr derby l have ever seen and blows my mind everytime l see it, so l want to get something similar but even better and far more eye popping, here it is, the 2 eyelet derby by BIG Johnny Lobb:
View attachment 29068 View attachment 29069

My bespoke derby will be in either a blueish/green or a fire engine red with a heavy patina. Truly though, after seeing the Berluti colour book today l wish l had a pair in every single colour.

To finish off, here is the infamous Berluti bespoke 1 eyelet derby to show off how unique Berluti are.
View attachment 29067


With Cleverley there were limitations of colour, but now the sky is the limit. All the big boys work at Berluti too, Delos and many ex John Lobb Paris blokes, all legends in their own lifetimes!!!


Late edit: I want to get a red colour just like this, but even more of a patina.
Click to expand...

Dear The Shooman The Shooman
Thank you so much for these posts
Amazing forum gold
I always let my phone read them out loudly for me. Several times in a row. Your participation makes the forum GRAND AND GREAT! Compliments!
 
1956: In response to draft legislation banning the use of x-rays by shoe stores, members of the A.C.T. Advisory Council are offered free scans of their feet with the shoe-fitting fluoroscope.

W.A. Johnston of the Johnston Bros shoe store declared "we are fighting a battle to overcome ill-fitting shoes and the only way we can do it is to show an adult his feet under the machine, to prove to him what his shoes are doing to his feet."

These machines were in use in Australia up to the 1960s - they lost favour not only because of the health risk, but because they weren't actually very useful for fitting shoes.
=====
The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995) Wed 26 Jun 1957
Ban On Shoe X-ray Machines Resented
An open invitation to members of the A.C.T. Advisory Council to have their feet X-rayed was yesterday extended by
the manager of a Canberra shoe store which is equipped with a fluoroscope, which will be banned by proposed A.C.T.
legislation.
On Monday the council approved draft legislation to prohibit the use of fluoroscopes in shoe stores or by unauthorised persons.
The proposed legislation will provide a penalty of £50 against unauthorised persons who operate an X-ray machine.
The manager of Johnston Bros, shoe store in Alinga Street, Civic Centre, Mr. W. A. Johnston, said yesterday that the council had "an atom bomb complex." A fluoroscope he had for seven years cost about £200 and it had given great ser
vice in fitting shoes. It was essential for the correct fitting of shoes. It was the only way that a child's shoes could be fitted exactly to ensure that footbones were not pushed out of shape.

"We have at least a dozen measuring devices, but the X-ray machine is the surest and easiest way to ensure correct fittings," said Mr. Johnston. He said he felt the A.C.T. legislation would be a bar in the path of progress towards better fitting shoes. The time that a foot would be under X-ray was only a matter of seconds and there was little real likelihood of danger.
"I have been using it for seven years and there have been no ill-effects," he said. Many old people who had their feet examined under the machine were surprised to find how their footbones were pushed out of shape by ill-fitting shoes.
"If the Advisory Council members accept my invitation I think they will get a shock too," said Mr. Johnston.
About 50 per cent. of men's shoes were too short and too wide, resulting in the toes being pushed to the side.
"We are fighting a battle to overcome ill-fitting shoes and the only way we can do it is to show an
adult his feet under the machine, to prove to him what his shoes are doing to his feet," said Mr. Johnston.
He said the majority of shoe stores in Canberra used the machines, which were a necessary aid to fitting.
Managers of several other stores said the machines had been satisfactory and they would not remove them until the
legislation came into force and they were told to get rid of them.
 
fxh said:
Shooey
View attachment 29355 View attachment 29356
Click to expand...


A 1 day shoo antique v's a 51,100 day shoo antique

I raise you this. An aussie black boot with NATURAL antiquing. It is down the road from me, and was made in the 1880's roughly. I was the only person who has been allowed to take them out and personally photograph them.

A black shoo with real antiquing done over 140 years
Texon Oz shoo61.webp
Texon Oz shoo62.webp
Texon Oz shoo63.webp
Texon Oz shoo64.webp


A Fosters bespoke shoo with fake antiquing done on the day
Fosters & Sons black antique 1.webp Fosters & Sons black antique 2.webp


Funny enough,one of my 20 year old black boots has got natural sun bleached antiquing also, it looks great.
 
Syrian bird's nest shoo made in 1867. Kids wore them on their feet for a special ceremony. It's very fragile so l was lucky to be given special permission to handle it.
Texon Oz shoo109.webp
 
Not everybody's cup of tea but it's time to get my work boots refurbished/resoled. 5 year beating took its toll.
IMG_1465.webp


Ordered another pair as well. Brown waxed calf vamp like so:
IMG_1467.webp


With burgundy kangaroo for the stacks with 2 additional inches of boot top height. Pull tabs not holes.
IMG_1466.webp
 
Truth, do you have big John Lobb?

I've got mine on today. Looking really flash today. Looking like a King. Got a big hanky in my breast pocket too.
 
The Shooman said:
Truth, do you have big John Lobb?

I've got mine on today. Looking really flash today. Looking like a King. Got a big hanky in my breast pocket too.
Click to expand...

BJL's are all at the office.

Glad to hear you are cutting a dashing figure. Was in Indian Country today, so no spiffy duds for me.

Only shitkickers here at Flat Broke Acres.
 
Thruth said:
BJL's are all at the office.
Click to expand...

Hey Truth, what John Lobb models do you own?

btw, l think it is amazing that you own the good ones like Vass, St Crispins, big Johnny Lobb etc. Not many blokes own `em, so it is very impressive when a man does, especially when he owns tractors and rollnecks. It's about being a bloke and knowing what's what. And if a man owns tractors and wears fat beefy rollnecks he is definitely going to know what's what!
 
Basic courses in being a man
Being a man 101 - how to not be an igent

Advanced courses in being a man
Being a man 302 - wearing John Lobb and rollnecks.
Being a man 404 - owning a tractor.

Igents might wear rollnecks and John Lobb, but it doesn't mean they are a real man.
 
The Shooman said:
Hey Truth, what John Lobb models do you own?

btw, l think it is amazing that you own the good ones like Vass, St Crispins, big Johnny Lobb etc. Not many blokes own `em, so it is very impressive when a man does, especially when he owns tractors and rollnecks. It's about being a bloke and knowing what's what. And if a man owns tractors and wears fat beefy rollnecks he is definitely going to know what's what!
Click to expand...

Lopez loafer in brown suede, Tudor chelsea in Misty brown calf and strap jodhpurs in brown calf.
 
Inanity at it's finest. The world shoo polishing championships hosted by Truth's mate Jesper. I can't help noticing how foolish a number of people must have felt being there...I get the feeling they know it is pointless and silly.


Imo the pics say it all. It's like "what am l doing here", in particular the bald man in the middle from G&G.
World shoo polishing 1.webp


The Shoe Snob's face says it all, and the others faces are telling also. The guilt of participating in something so inane shows through imo. I think Shoe Snob was probably asked to come along, but it is like he is feeling really stupid about being there. Jesper seems to be having a good time however.

World shoo polishing 2.webp
 
shooey - do my eyes deceive me? Or am I really watching a grown man, well dressed in a nice clean WHITE shirt and tie and suit, polishing shoes - and using his fingers to put polish on the shoes. And not even rolling his sleeves up?
 
Thruth said:
Nope. Would not send to him for refurbishing or any comment
Click to expand...
Interesting.

Anyway...back to the world shoo polishing championships. Kirby describes it as a "nail biting event" at 20 seconds in. Seems to be so much emphasis on winning.


Eventhough these blokes are not big daddy shoomen, they ARE a somebody in the shoo world because they are the big boys of patina and polishing, having earned their stripes as principle shoe polishers for G&G. Patina Pete and Patina Thomas are the big guns. For proof check out Patina Thomas' stuff at G&G.
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/10/gaziano-girling-launches-patina-service.html
https://www.gazianogirling.com/blogs/news/15420425-patina-launch-event-friday-26th-september

Patina Thomas' decorating of the G&G has inspired him to become a big daddy of the shoo world. Now he is going to Stefano Bemer for lessons.

Meanwhile `Patina Pete' admits the championships was "nerve racking"
 
Patina Pete talks about using a polishing cloth that is filthy and well broken in, and he wouldn't use anything else. I feel the same way...i've been using the same cloth over 10 years, and it is far more filthy than Pete's. I won't use anything else because it creates a smooth polishing effect with no fluff. The entire cloth is all covered in polish, and then l do second and third layers of polish over the old dirty parts.
 
And here's an interview with Hasegawa-san from 2009, published in the Financial Times:

https://www.ft.com/content/c1929d5a-de09-11de-b8e2-00144feabdc0

Yuya Hasegawa is owner of the Brift-H Shoe Lounge, a shoe care “bar” in Tokyo. Customers sip juice and listen to jazz at the bar, feet snug in slippers, behind which Mr Hasegawa stands polishing their shoes and explaining the process. He also makes weekly visits to companies, including UBS and Prudential, and customers’ homes.

- In 2004, I had been making a living doing odd jobs that paid by the day. However, those day jobs slowly petered out and I was essentially unemployed. I was walking around a Y100 shop and saw this shoe-cleaning kit and it occurred to me that this could be the solution. You are paid immediately and it wouldn’t cost much to set up. So, I set up a stool and a cardboard sign and started cleaning shoes for passers-by at busy railway stations. On my first day, I cleaned 14 pairs and made about Y7,000 ($81, €54, £49). So I decided to carry on while also starting work at a clothing store.

- I started Brift-H in June 2008. I received funding from the public finance corporation, a government scheme, after submitting a business plan and showing them a magazine story that had been published about my shoe-shining. It featured a trip I took across western Japan polishing shoes. It was really tough to secure the funding – I was only 23 – but I got the money in the end, and I plan to have it repaid in three years.

- The downturn has been beneficial for us. People aren’t buying new shoes and instead are caring more for the pairs they already own, so our customer numbers are rising. Also, about six years ago, there was a boom in having expensive shoes, which has also helped. Good shoes that are well cared for can be worn for 20-30 years.

- Shoe-shining is seen as lowly work and shoe-shiners often look poor. You crouch at the customers’ feet and clean while they keep their shoes on. One day, when I was still shoe-shining at stations, a customer told me it didn’t look classy to be crouching like that and suggested I use a table to clean on. That was impossible, because I needed to be able to run quickly if the police came [he did not have a licence].

But I had been asked to give a presentation at a store opening one evening and decided to try shoe-shining standing up. The idea was that the customer would remove the shoe to let me shine it. This became the concept for the shop. Cleaning shoes standing up creates a completely different experience with the customer as you are physically at their level. Also, customers can watch the process. It isn’t often that people really examine their footwear in detail, but here in the shop at the counter they can watch the shoes being transformed, like a show. Also, I can clean the shoes better.

- Making money is important, but I also want to raise the profile and the value of shoe-shining as a profession and raise the status of shoe-shiners as craftsmen. For a long time, I worked alone, but now the challenge is to pass on my skills to build the business. To give shoes a bright polish is relatively easy, but we’re the only place in Japan, maybe in the world, that can remove cracks in leather.

We have developed a technique to deal with this problem and it’s a trade secret. If I don’t teach it properly, the quality will deteriorate. For people who love shoes, this is their biggest concern, because nobody could repair those cracks. Now we have a three-month waiting list. Increasing sales is another challenge. I make a profit, but it’s a close call. I’m researching how I can increase revenues. One idea is introducing a school, but it’s just an idea at the moment.

- My dream is to open a store in London, maybe somewhere like Jermyn Street, as London is the original home of excellent footwear. We’re going to visit next year for a feasibility study.
 
How many people wear shoes that can be polished these days? Even in the City of London.

I mostly see trainers. Leather shoes are the inexpensive type for people who do not bother much about their upkeep. Traditional shoe shine stalls have not exactly had a boom time. I suspect a shoe shine shop is doomed to fail.
 
Kingstonian said:
How many people wear shoes that can be polished these days? Even in the City of London.

I mostly see trainers. Leather shoes are the inexpensive type for people who do not bother much about their upkeep. Traditional shoe shine stalls have not exactly had a boom time. I suspect a shoe shine shop is doomed to fail.
Click to expand...
People just don't know about good shoes. If they wore a good pair they would be hooked. People spend their money on all types of things, so many can afford to spend 250 GBP on a pair of shoes, but they don't because they don't know what they are missing out on. Instead they skimp. Even worse, many wear sports types of footwear now.

So many cheap shoes on the footpaths of my town too. Very rarely see a good pair. Used to see a lot of good pairs once as a kid, all goodyear welted, especially around the courts and legal offices...blokes in good suits wearing black goodyear welted shoes. Those sights used to inspire me as a 6 year old visiting the city with my mum. My eyes used to get opened wide looking at those goodyear welted shoes, and the day-dreaming of owning such pairs were incredible and stayed with me for life. l knew I had to be one of those guys, and l still have fond memories of those wonderful footwear sights I had as a kid. I remember it like it was yesterday. I used to check all their shoos, and l used to beg my mum to buy me a pair so l could wear the top shoos as a 6 year old just like the big lawyers and businessmen wore. She refused me each time because they were big bucks in Oz, so l vowed to get the best money could buy when l grew up. All l wanted was a pair of black captoe oxfords by Church's or Loake so l could wear to the junior school. All l wanted was to be a kid with the best shoos possible and be like the big businessmen.

I remember as a kid; I wanted a great pair of shoos, a great suit and an amazing looking old school office. I've never changed. I've always liked what l have liked. And quite frankly, l had shoo lists drawn up before l even entered school. I had certain types of loafers on my list and captoe oxfords etc, and l eventually got them all. I waited over 30 years to get some of those pairs....they were always on my list. On many nights l couldn't even sleep because l wanted them so badly.


Journeyman said:
Have you seen this, Shooey?

Yuya Hasegawa of Brift H in Tokyo:

Click to expand...


I hadn't seen it. Thanks for posting the interview also.It was very good.
 
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“If they wore a good pair” That does not look likely at the moment.

I am puzzled by what people wear theses days. Old blokes in cargo shorts but also wearing fleeces. One elderly chap I see wears T shirts and shorts but always with a flat cap on - indoors.
 
Shoo shine king Johnny Chung tells us how it's done. Pity Kirby cut him off at a crucial part where he was explaining things. His was by far the best (his is to the right of the picture).
Shoo shine - John Chung.webp










and here Kirby takes his new information about heating the wax and makes a new shoe shine video. Obviously Kirby had a big night on the drink the night before, and it looks like he is suffering. His eyes are bloodshot and he has big bags under his eyes....and he lacks the zest he normally has.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-rsGbN3qTU
 
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The Shooman said:
Ermenegildo Zegna bespoke shoes (made by Gaziano & Girling bespoke and designed by Zegna)
Click to expand...

How can they be "bespoke" if they have particular models?

Sure, you can choose your colour, trim, lining and so on, but you're still restricted to set patterns/models.

I would suggest that this is more made-to-order than bespoke - but then again, such confusion over, or deliberate misuse of "bespoke" is far from unusual nowadays.
 
Journeyman said:
How can they be "bespoke" if they have particular models?

Sure, you can choose your colour, trim, lining and so on, but you're still restricted to set patterns/models.

I would suggest that this is more made-to-order than bespoke - but then again, such confusion over, or deliberate misuse of "bespoke" is far from unusual nowadays.
Click to expand...

I think it could be a set design, but a bespoke last, bespoke pattern (a bespoke pattern on a set design) etc and an all handmade shoe. I can understand why they would do such a thing; they want a certain design in the marketplace made to the highest standards and made custom to a clients feet. They want it recognised as Zegna shoe. It's like....if you want this shoe, we'll have it made to fit your foot perfectly and we'll make it to the highest standards.

Oliver Moore bespoke shoes (New York)
They sell mostly glued soles, but they also appear to do fully handmade custom shoes with alterations of a plastic last.
https://sartorialnotes.com/2014/07/06/oliver-moore-bespoke-shoes-new-york/
http://www.pictame.com/user/oliver_moore_bootmakers/1429954652

The famous brogue in the Vass book.

Oliva Moore bespoke 1.webp

Oliva Moore bespoke 2.webp
Oliva Moore bespoke 3.webp
Oliva Moore bespoke 4.webp

Pics taken from these sites and others above:
http://www.claymoorslist.com/2012/0...ing_wp_cron=1525337743.8164908885955810546875
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XG9wOPThKtM
 
The Shooman said:
Ermenegildo Zegna bespoke shoes (made by Gaziano & Girling bespoke and designed by Zegna)
https://www.thenational.ae/arts-cul...from-ermenegildo-zegna-in-pictures-1.212852#9
https://robbreport.com.my/2017/03/30/ermenegildo-zegnas-new-bespoke-shoe-collection/
Click to expand...

The Alessandro Sartori was the one working at Berlutti before, wasn't he? Seems to be a rtw collection where he picked up lasts, lining, etc....
The lasts shoes I have seen from Zegna are awful. made in Italy blake stitched soles., nothing to see with the old xxx coutures.
 
robertito said:
The Alessandro Sartori was the one working at Berlutti before, wasn't he?
Click to expand...

Yes, he has worked at a few major places.

robertito said:
Seems to be a rtw collection where he picked up lasts, lining, etc....
The lasts shoes I have seen from Zegna are awful. made in Italy blake stitched soles., nothing to see with the old xxx coutures.
Click to expand...

Even the old xxx coutures had very ordinary finishing on the heels and soles with awful painting on the soles that looked so cheap and nasty like a shoe in walmart or a bargain basement shoe would have....makes it look like it has a plastic sole (see pic):
Zegna xxx shoos.webp



The uppers weren't too bad, but not the really nice seductive leather. My pair of xxx are blake-rapid construction.
 
The Shooman said:
Yes, he has worked at a few major places.



Even the old xxx coutures had very ordinary finishing on the heels and soles with awful painting on the soles that looked so cheap and nasty like a shoe in walmart or a bargain basement shoe would have....makes it look like it has a plastic sole (see pic):
View attachment 29692


The uppers weren't too bad, but not the really nice seductive leather. My pair of xxx are blake-rapid construction.
Click to expand...
Yeah my Zegnas are much the same. I'll take a pic later.
 
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