The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

The
The Shooman said:
how come?
Click to expand...

If he walked into Leffot with those jeans and those shoes, I think he might secretly be Jazzmenco on SF
IMG_9638.webp
IMG_9639.webp
IMG_9640.webp
 
Well it’s not necessarily the colour of that photo you see in the travel ads. Tour buses normally head off in the early morning to it. You can walk up it, but it is not as easy as you might think and anyway the aboriginals would prefer if you did not. Then you get back to the nearest village and it is grog-free. So you are kicking your heels waiting to ship out. Kings Canyon is much better for a walkabout and you are not worried by an iconic photograph.
 
Tomorrow I have an appointment with Calzoleria Petrocchi, in Rome.
http://www.calzoleriapetrocchi.it/en/

If there's interest I can post pictures and a small review.

I'll be ordering something simple (classic black calf oxford captoe). It's bespoke handwelted for the price of C&J Handgrade. If the fit is better than with my Carmina/C&J/Vass RTW and the calf is at the same level of say, Vass, I'll be fully satisfied.

home31.jpg
 
Sounds good. Making a lasted handmade shoe for C and J money?

Yes definitely interesting and they have been around for a good while too.
 
aristoi bcn said:
The last will be something in this line:
Click to expand...

It may just be the photo, but that leather doesn't look so good, which is a problem that smaller outfits sometimes face - as they don't have economies of scale, it costs them more to order good leather.

I'm definitely interested in hearing about your experiences and I hope that the shoes fit very well.
 
Hi guys,

I was wrong with the price. 800€ is bespoke blake-welted. Bespoke hand-welted is 1.500€. I was measured and I expect to have the fitting when again in Rome, probably before Summer. The calf will be oak tanned Annonay, very high quality from what I've heard and from what I could touch in the atelier.
 
aristoi bcn said:
Hi guys,

I was wrong with the price. 800€ is bespoke blake-welted. Bespoke hand-welted is 1.500€. I was measured and I expect to have the fitting when again in Rome, probably before Summer. The calf will be oak tanned Annonay, very high quality from what I've heard and from what I could touch in the atelier.
Click to expand...

Still a good price.
 
John Lobb `fould'

I want to bookmark this post for a certain shoo that has gotten me quite excited in recent months, the John Lobb `fould' on the excellent 8695 last. It is an excellent looking monkstrap design on an excellent looking highly comfortable excellent fitting rtw last. The shoo may not be to everyone's taste, but this shoo keeps me awake at night. This is the monk l have been searching for years to find, the real ideal rtw manly monk because the last is perfect for the simple design. I have never seen a better looking rtw monk. The Church's `westbury' was a ripper, but this is even better!

Check out this beauty!
John Lobb fould 8695 last 2.webp
John Lobb fould 8695 last 3.webp
John Lobb fould 8695 last 4.webp


I really like John Lobb best of all the rtw English shoes. There are better finished higher end shoes (eg, the Lobb classic's soles aren't stitched as finely as EG and the soles aren't machine finished as nicely as EG) , but l like Lobb because of the lasts and fit and styles and colourings and looks of their various shoes. I hardly wear Edward Green and C&J and G&G, but l love wearing BIG Johnny Lobb because they are such special goodyear welted shoos. Every pair of Lobbs l have are eye popping in a way that other rtw pairs aren't. The lasts and colourings and styles are a thing of beauty!


Another amazing shoe is the Anthony Cleverley spectator on the `churchill'
Anthony Cleverley churchill spectator.webp
 
Last edited:
The Shooman said:
John Lobb `fould'

I want to bookmark this post for a certain shoo that has gotten me quite excited in recent months, the John Lobb `fould' on the excellent 8695 last. It is an excellent looking monkstrap design on an excellent looking highly comfortable excellent fitting rtw last. The shoo may not be to everyone's taste, but this shoo keeps me awake at night. This is the monk l have been searching for years to find, the real ideal rtw manly monk because the last is perfect for the simple design. I have never seen a better looking rtw monk. The Church's `westbury' was a ripper, but this is even better!

Check out this beauty!
View attachment 26623
View attachment 26624
View attachment 26625

I really like John Lobb best of all the rtw English shoes. There are better finished higher end shoes (eg, the Lobb classic's soles aren't stitched as finely as EG and the soles aren't machine finished as nicely as EG) , but l like Lobb because of the lasts and fit and styles and colourings and looks of their various shoes. I hardly wear Edward Green and C&J and G&G, but l love wearing BIG Johnny Lobb because they are such special goodyear welted shoos. Every pair of Lobbs l have are eye popping in a way that other rtw pairs aren't. The lasts and colourings and styles are a thing of beauty!


Another amazing shoe is the Anthony Cleverley spectator on the `churchill'
View attachment 26626
Click to expand...
Shooey, what do you think John Lobb Milan? It is supposed to be also on the 8695 last.
 
The Shooman said:
John Lobb `fould'

I want to bookmark this post for a certain shoo that has gotten me quite excited in recent months, the John Lobb `fould' on the excellent 8695 last. It is an excellent looking monkstrap design on an excellent looking highly comfortable excellent fitting rtw last. The shoo may not be to everyone's taste, but this shoo keeps me awake at night. This is the monk l have been searching for years to find, the real ideal rtw manly monk because the last is perfect for the simple design. I have never seen a better looking rtw monk. The Church's `westbury' was a ripper, but this is even better!

Check out this beauty!
View attachment 26623
View attachment 26624
View attachment 26625

I really like John Lobb best of all the rtw English shoes. There are better finished higher end shoes (eg, the Lobb classic's soles aren't stitched as finely as EG and the soles aren't machine finished as nicely as EG) , but l like Lobb because of the lasts and fit and styles and colourings and looks of their various shoes. I hardly wear Edward Green and C&J and G&G, but l love wearing BIG Johnny Lobb because they are such special goodyear welted shoos. Every pair of Lobbs l have are eye popping in a way that other rtw pairs aren't. The lasts and colourings and styles are a thing of beauty!


Another amazing shoe is the Anthony Cleverley spectator on the `churchill'
View attachment 26626
Click to expand...
Yeah black single monk like that would be nice to have.
 
I love the 7000 last from Lobb.
Also the Anthony Cleverley last.
The 82 from EG and TG73 from GG are very nice too.
Ah! And the U from Vass.

None of them fit me in the way the Simpsom last from Carmina does. I have such a low instep that even the last with the lowest instep in the market is too high for me. This is the reason I'm going bespoke from now onwards.
 
The Shooman said:
John Lobb `fould'

I want to bookmark this post for a certain shoo that has gotten me quite excited in recent months, the John Lobb `fould' on the excellent 8695 last. It is an excellent looking monkstrap design on an excellent looking highly comfortable excellent fitting rtw last. The shoo may not be to everyone's taste, but this shoo keeps me awake at night. This is the monk l have been searching for years to find, the real ideal rtw manly monk because the last is perfect for the simple design. I have never seen a better looking rtw monk. The Church's `westbury' was a ripper, but this is even better!

Check out this beauty!
View attachment 26623
View attachment 26624
View attachment 26625

I really like John Lobb best of all the rtw English shoes. There are better finished higher end shoes (eg, the Lobb classic's soles aren't stitched as finely as EG and the soles aren't machine finished as nicely as EG) , but l like Lobb because of the lasts and fit and styles and colourings and looks of their various shoes. I hardly wear Edward Green and C&J and G&G, but l love wearing BIG Johnny Lobb because they are such special goodyear welted shoos. Every pair of Lobbs l have are eye popping in a way that other rtw pairs aren't. The lasts and colourings and styles are a thing of beauty!


Another amazing shoe is the Anthony Cleverley spectator on the `churchill'
View attachment 26626
Click to expand...

Based on looks, I would take the C & J Savile instead. Or the Swindon for a cheaper benchgrade offering.

I have Bexley - from the days when they were Goodyear welted - and their Bloomingdale single monk could not be beaten for an inexpensive shoe. Still going strong.
 
Kingstonian said:
Based on looks, I would take the C & J Savile instead. Or the Swindon for a cheaper benchgrade offering.

I have Bexley - from the days when they were Goodyear welted - and their Bloomingdale single monk could not be beaten for an inexpensive shoe. Still going strong.
Click to expand...

You just can't go wrong with C&J for range, quality, price and longevity ratio.
 
viaattovannucci said:
Shooey, what do you think John Lobb Milan? It is supposed to be also on the 8695 last.
Click to expand...

It is not to my liking, but l can understand why Lobb has employed a designer who now designs fashion forward shoes like this and has phased out some of the old classics. A company like Lobb understands the marketplace very well....they understand that the market for old classics is very small and focuses on making high quality fashion forward shoes like the Milan. John Lobb makes quality fashion forward shoes for the rich along with making SOME old classics and various old classics with eye popping colours. Johnny Lobb has the modern style for the rich young new money crowd, the rich colours and the elegance etc, where-as Edward Green are more focused on a small market of traditionists with more subdued colouring. Many igents criticise Lobb, but they fail to understand the shoe market. Many people don't want shoes like their grandfather's, they want high quality classics that have updated details that are unique, and Lobb does this to perfection.


aristoi bcn said:
I love the 7000 last from Lobb.
Click to expand...

Yes, the best looking round toe last l have ever seen on rtw. Nothing compares to it, a completely STUNNING last!!! It is very modern looking and very VERY elegant. I would love to own more shoes on it but the 8695 last works much better for my feet...probably the best fitting last of all. However for a single monk that 8695 last is perfect and the 7000 last would look too slick for such a shoe design.



aristoi bcn said:
Also the Anthony Cleverley last.
Click to expand...

I think that could be the best rtw last ever made. Nothing imo has ever compared to that last. It is a masterpiece. Why? Because it mimics the Cleverley hallmark of making feet look at their most elegant and beautiful in a way that other shoes like G&G and E.G never could, it makes the foot look smaller and beautiful. In other words, on many feet the rtw Anthony Cleverley last looks BESPOKE in that special English way when made for favourable foot types. It is a picture of true elegance and beauty and is a work of art. It's magic really comes into play when the shoe is viewed 6 foot away, and Cleverley well understand this, and they took 3 years to design the last to create perfection. The only other two lasts l have seen that come close are the John Lobb 7000 last and the 8000 last, but the AC last is king!!! I also love the cleverley hallmark of the elongated shank and small heel, it is very unique. I really understand what Cleverley do, they are a very unqiue and special company, and l am so greatful for fulfilling their amazing visions.


aristoi bcn said:
The 82 from EG and TG73 from GG are very nice too.
Click to expand...
Indeed they are, but nothing on the Lobb 7000 and 8000 and AC lasts. The 82 and TG73 are a level down in that the lasts are not as eye poppingly beautiful, but they would consequently work for more feet because they are less elegant. See....to me the really elegant english rtw lasts try to make the shoes look bespoke and make the feet look smaller,and this is exactly what the 7000, 8000 and AC last do to perfection. See....to me the 82 and TG73 have different goals in mind from the 7000 8000 etc.



aristoi bcn said:
None of them fit me in the way the Simpsom last from Carmina does. I have such a low instep that even the last with the lowest instep in the market is too high for me. This is the reason I'm going bespoke from now onwards.
Click to expand...

Ever considered having a medium thick soft leather shoe-sock glued in the shoe while wearing a thicker wool or bamboo sock to increase the volume in the shoe so you fill it out a bit?
 
Last edited:
Pimpernel Smith said:
You just can't go wrong with C&J for range, quality, price and longevity ratio.
Click to expand...

Very true, but sometimes people want something extra special with total WOW factor (lobb's colouring and lasts), and other times a man wants a shoo's shoo by feeling the extra solid manliness of a true fairdinkum shoo like Vass (best shoe wearing experience of any rtw IMO), and other times a man wants to take a step back and wear a beautiful classic like an EG with it's very special antiquing while other times a man wants the attention from the uniqueness of G&G while other times a man wants to puff out his chest and wear a big rtw king on his feet such as Santoni bentivegna shoos or Lattanzi.

Life is about having great experiences, and going the extra mile with shoos is part of that. To me shoes are not about economics and cost per wear, it is about the experience and satisfaction. Sometimes middle of the road doesn't cut it...sometimes a man wants to take it all the way, and he is willing to pay for it because the experience is worth it.
 
Santoni bentivegna shoes v's Vass

The Santoni bentivegna constructed shoes are better quality than Vass because the leathers are up there with high quality bespoke where-as Vass leathers vary quite a lot. I am guessing that Santoni's top lines use one cut per hide while Vass uses numerous cuts per hide, and this explains why SOME of the Vass leather is amazingly good such as my brown wholecut which uses leather that has surpassed the leather on my George Materna bespoke (a tighter grain with less flaws). Generally the Vass leather can be quite good, but not as good as Santoni's top handmade offerings.

O.k...the quality of the construction of Santoni bentivegna and norvegese isn't as good as Vass' because the machine stitched sole can compromise the integrity of the construction after many resoles, but the Santoni bentivegna is still a better quality shoe.

Just saying.
 
The Shooman said:
....where-as Edward Green are more focused on a small market of traditionists with more subdued colouring. Many igents criticise Lobb, but they fail to understand the shoe market. Many people don't want shoes like their grandfather's, they want high quality classics that have updated details that are unique, and Lobb does this to perfection.
Click to expand...

Noticed that EG appear to be more affordable these days, F.G van den Heuvel in The Hague have limited ranges in and you can pick them up for €900+, whereas a few years ago they were €1400+. I have one pair of EG's in the fiddle vamp antique desk finish leather, but as good as there are, somehow I don't get round to wearing them that much.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
Noticed that EG appear to be more affordable these days, F.G van den Heuvel in The Hague have limited ranges in and you can pick them up for €900+, whereas a few years ago they were €1400+. I have one pair of EG's in the fiddle vamp antique desk finish leather, but as good as there are, somehow I don't get round to wearing them that much.
Click to expand...

The aussie market is different. When E.G first came to Henry Bucks about 12 years ago they were priced at $2,000 for limited rtw and started at $2,700 for mto. This was basically double the prices of the U.S, and apparently the prices were $3,000 in Japan.

Then our local store got them in and the prices were very reasonable at $1,350 and $1,600 for Anthony Cleverley. Four years later the prices have escalated with $1,700 for E.G and $2,300 for AC.

One thing l have noticed is that ebay prices for shoes have dropped generally since lots of S.F and AAAC buyers demand for shoes have dropped off (people have long built up their collections and moved on) and igent hype has blown over, but we have in recent years had a small glut of soul-less business people dominating the market selling large amounts of Vass and English shoes for higher prices. Ten years ago anything second hand with Edward Green on it would sell quite high on ebay due to igent hype, but now it is not so crazy.

The group think was amazing on S.F, but now these people have all grown up, adapted to it, moved on, and are over it. Lots of people wanted to be part of it, they wanted to see what the fuss was about. For me it wasn't the forums that pumped me up about these big names, it was the stories l was told about Trickers and Edward Green and Lobb as a kid that made my eyes grow wide and BIG.
 
But you could get Trickers straight from the factory(retricker) via eBay at great prices. Then they bumped up prices to eliminate resellers.

Pediwear would price match. A seller in malaysia had really cheap C&J so you just translated their price from ringgits to pounds and got the shoes from Pediwear. Then C&J cottoned on and stopped supplying the Malaysian shop.
 
Kingstonian said:
But you could get Trickers straight from the factory(retricker) via eBay at great prices. Then they bumped up prices to eliminate resellers.

Pediwear would price match. A seller in malaysia had really cheap C&J so you just translated their price from ringgits to pounds and got the shoes from Pediwear. Then C&J cottoned on and stopped supplying the Malaysian shop.
Click to expand...

Never been a fan of Trickers, whilst they're instantly recognisable they always seem a little bit chubby on the lasts.
 
I recently ordered these, blake and nice price, hope they are good value. I love Adelaides and my olde Crapminas cause some pain on my feet now. If these look decent enough it should be a nice option to rebuild my shoe wardrobe on a budget...
 
Polished/corrected grain burgundy longwing - too skinhead? Tempted by the Herring Leconfield in their sale, as a beater shoe. I'm currently destroying my Cheaney brogues instead.
 
Loake sovereign has Dainite sole. Cheap at discount shoes strutton ground. I have burgundy Loake royals and a scotch grain equivalent made by Loake for a country clothing store.

The shoes are not too skinhead for me. I no longer wear mohair suits though.
 
MES said:
Polished/corrected grain burgundy longwing - too skinhead? Tempted by the Herring Leconfield in their sale, as a beater shoe. I'm currently destroying my Cheaney brogues instead.
Click to expand...

Style is not so skinhead. Just avoid red laces.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 13 (members: 0, guests: 13)
Back
Top Bottom