The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

florisgreen said:
At John Lobb not only they have introduced a lot of debatable or even horrible styles, but they also attempted to disfigure some iconic classics like the City and the William: they even call these disgraces "New Standard", on the 0015 last.

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Here the classics on the 7000 and 9795 last:
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The newer lasts got higher heels than the good old ones.

I get the following reading ( our new generation igent buyers got inferiority complexes, so we will make them looking taller)

as the masonic dwarf corrupted and condemned Zarkozy.

This are for real his shoes ( took from Google)
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florisgreen said:
Probably they are substantially on the same level in terms of quality, but John Lobb can boast a greater prestige in my opinion.
By the way, I've noticed that they now offer the possibility of customizing in their website.
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They're all chasing a receding customer base, it doesn't bode well methinks.

There was an article on C&J's and it stated that in 2019, it was the first year that their slip-on ranges exceeded in sales all other shoe styles. You can bet 2020 was a repeat of that.

I think there's some equivalents to the 1920's: a trend towards the more leisurely styles which by our standards were still formal back then, but with the reopening of society (hopefully sometime soon), we may yet see a return to dressing to impress and for the gravity of the position and one's role, be it business or pleasure It may all be a rear guard action, but we shall soon find out.
 
florisgreen said:
The Philip is another classic, part of the "Prestige" line, and it was originally a classic captoe oxford with a discreet broguing, only recently they launched the double monk version. It's certainly sleeker and more elegant than the sturdy William, which nonetheless is a great classic and has many admirers.
As a double monk there's also the Camborne:
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There is the derby too. Too me they represent the top of the class in their respective styles, and I'd like all of these below.

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Pimpernel Smith said:
They're all chasing a receding customer base, it doesn't bode well methinks.

There was an article on C&J's and it stated that in 2019, it was the first year that their slip-on ranges exceeded in sales all other shoe styles. You can bet 2020 was a repeat of that.

I think there's some equivalents to the 1920's: a trend towards the more leisurely styles which by our standards were still formal back then, but with the reopening of society (hopefully sometime soon), we may yet see a return to dressing to impress and for the gravity of the position and one's role, be it business or pleasure It may all be a rear guard action, but we shall soon find out.
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There is also a trend from Edward Green towards making more rubber soled shoes with an open channel. They say they are comfort shoes and are pushing these more and more because they offer a big profit margin....much cheaper to produce than leather soled shoes, and sold at the same price. E.G along with G&G are also pushing the glued soled shoes as comfort shoes too. Not impressed.

Like in this video from Kirby. Edward Green: open channel soles, rubber soles, machine stitched aprons, lightweight, easy packable, glued flimsy shoes all being pushed on the video. Apparently customers ask Edward Green for these shoes, but l doubt it. If customers want these types of shoes they can go to plenty of other companies and get those types of shoes, but they are trying to expand their market with non traditional shoes, using the pandemic as an excuse, and water down their origins with nonsense stuff. Suddenly everyone wants to travel, and they want collapsable shoes. It's all a big sales con, but a number of people are awake enough to know what they are trying to do.

Same goes for Lobb. Apparently their normal shoes are too heavy for men to wear, so they make lightweight versions.

 
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The Shooman said:
There is also a trend from Edward Green towards making more rubber soled shoes with an open channel. They say they are comfort shoes and are pushing these more and more because they offer a big profit margin....much cheaper to produce than leather soled shoes, and sold at the same price. E.G along with G&G are also pushing the glued soled shoes as comfort shoes too. Not impressed.
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Yes, it's all about cutting corners and increasing profits: I can't imagine that tradition customers do ask for lighter, cheaper (in term of construction) shoes.
The producers want probably to appeal to younger, fashionable men, who mostly have no idea about shoe-construction and processing and are just glad to flaunt a shoe with a high level of acknowledgement and prestige.
The Shooman said:
Same goes for Lobb. Apparently their normal shoes are too heavy for men to wear, so they make lightweight versions.
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The case of John Lobb is even more debatable, as Hermes, which has the ownership, produces itself shoes suitable for that segment, since no need to distort JL's philosophy.
 
Presumably the above is partly a reference to the EG Polperro and Portland. G&G also have their 'fresco' range. Unlined suede cemented to a leather sole.

They're overpriced but I can see the appeal. I have a pair of similarly constructed suede loafers from Tod's that I bought for very little and they make for a nice, comfortable summer shoe which have held up for years of frequent use. The only issue is the tap tap sound they make when walking. Not a major problem.
 
Benzein exploring Indoshoos as well as their Indoboots:



Sockless Bastard.
 
The Shooman said:
There is also a trend from Edward Green towards making more rubber soled shoes with an open channel. They say they are comfort shoes and are pushing these more and more because they offer a big profit margin....much cheaper to produce than leather soled shoes, and sold at the same price. E.G along with G&G are also pushing the glued soled shoes as comfort shoes too. Not impressed.

Like in this video from Kirby. Edward Green: open channel soles, rubber soles, machine stitched aprons, lightweight, easy packable, glued flimsy shoes all being pushed on the video. Apparently customers ask Edward Green for these shoes, but l doubt it. If customers want these types of shoes they can go to plenty of other companies and get those types of shoes, but they are trying to expand their market with non traditional shoes, using the pandemic as an excuse, and water down their origins with nonsense stuff. Suddenly everyone wants to travel, and they want collapsable shoes. It's all a big sales con, but a number of people are awake enough to know what they are trying to do.

Same goes for Lobb. Apparently their normal shoes are too heavy for men to wear, so they make lightweight versions.

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Both Edward Green and Lobb never display prices in their Jermyn Street shops - unlike the other shoe retailers. Interesting that Green offer free returns from USA, that’s indicative of the margins on their shoes.
 
Kingstonian said:
Both Edward Green and Lobb never display prices in their Jermyn Street shops - unlike the other shoe retailers. Interesting that Green offer free returns from USA, that’s indicative of the margins on their shoes.
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would definitely be big margins on their shoes. I remember a local tailor sold Zegna XXX couture 10 years ago; he sold them for $1,200 and said he had to pay $700 for them. Definitely decent margins.

Harrolds once sold the Big Johnny Lobbs (both prestige and classics) for $2,500 (both priced the same) about 6 years ago while our local store were selling classics for about $1,700 at the time, while Paul Smith were selling John Lobbs for $1,400. Those were the prices at the time, about 2015/16.

All the shoes are too expensive, but if you want the really nice ones you need to pay the $$$$.
 
John Lobb Weldon in Burnt Umber Moorland Grain, 8695 last, Tensile Sole, worn with Pantherella Naish merino socks in wine red.

The fit is not best as, also visible in the picture, there's too much room in the heel cup. For my feet the 7000 last fits better than the 8695.

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John Lobb may be more known for their iconic double buckle monk the William, though they also offer(ed) nice single buckle ones, like the discontinued Matta, Fould and Ashill and the current Kenton.


Matta
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Fould
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Ashill
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Kenton
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I'm not so fond of that split buckle as seen on the Kenton. Probably my favourite would be the old Matta. With a little luck you could still get those discontinued models as Made To Order.
 
I am sorry to dissent, but most of the Lobb shoes posted are frankly unattractive. I will stick to my Loakes and Cheaneys.
 
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The Fould seems very nice. Still nothing to rave about, easily found at other makers, too. I don’t understand why so many shoo makers mess up the buckle design in, be it shape, be it colour. So unnecessary.
 
Most Lobb have a distinct look that is instantly recognisable as Lobb, and I rather like it.

I find it odd, however, that they consider the shaping/rounding of the sole edge at the waist to be something only for their higher prestige line.
 
Gaziano&Girling Mayfair, Navy Suede, MH71 last, single leather sole, MTO:

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A monk shoe is always something tricky if you don't go bespoke, as the lacking of laces doesn't allow to properly adjust the ankle fit. Here, for example, I have a pretty tight feeling over the instep (last strap hole) and too much room at the back.
 
Ted Lapidus - GYW - French writing. NFI when where etc

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Ted Lapidus created his own fashion house in 1951. In 1963, he joined the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne (Paris Haute Couture Trade Association) Its totally innovative fashion combines perfectly-cut clothing with inventive and fanciful detail. He was one of the most successful designers, best loved by the stars at the time, including Brigitte BARDOT, Marlène JOBERT or John LENNON, who commissioned the famous white suit he wears on the cover of the BEATLES’ iconic “Abbey Road” album
 
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Good to see a topied sole. All my leather soles are done from day 1. A leather sole is ugly as soon as it gets worn and the worn down toe area is horrible.
 
Sammy Ambrose said:
Good to see a topied sole. All my leather soles are done from day 1. A leather sole is ugly as soon as it gets worn and the worn down toe area is horrible.
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Most of mine are too. Not all as they don't get worn a lot these days.

it used to be a necessity here as there were very few, even in the bigger cities, who could repair GYW. Funnily its one thing where the supply of good cobblers has improved not decreased. Also I find leather soles too bloody dangerous -after nearly slipping arse over tit a bunch of times on a few of the marbled corridors of power I decided Topy is a OH&S issue.

Plus its just so easy for a repair bloke to rip them off and put on a new one. I usually get tan coloured ones put on nowdays
 
florisgreen said:
Gaziano&Girling Mayfair, Navy Suede, MH71 last, single leather sole, MTO:

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A monk shoe is always something tricky if you don't go bespoke, as the lacking of laces doesn't allow to properly adjust the ankle fit. Here, for example, I have a pretty tight feeling over the instep (last strap hole) and too much room at the back.
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Red with navy blues. I do that combination too.
 
Sammy Ambrose said:
Good to see a topied sole. All my leather soles are done from day 1. A leather sole is ugly as soon as it gets worn and the worn down toe area is horrible.
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I used to do the same. Lately, it occurred to me that it simply bothers me. Rubber soles make my feet sweat and I do not like the feeling anymore. I want to wear my leather soles again. At least when they are of good, durable quality. No more vibram for me. I‘ll buy some shoes with proper rubber soles straight away which will serve as bad weather beaters from now on.
 
Halberstram said:
I used to do the same. Lately, it occurred to me that it simply bothers me. Rubber soles make my feet sweat and I do not like the feeling anymore. I want to wear my leather soles again. At least when they are of good, durable quality. No more vibram for me. I‘ll buy some shoes with proper rubber soles straight away which will serve as bad weather beaters from now on.
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Never had an issue with sweaty feet. But I think I am one of those folk whose feet simply don't sweat. And what is the biological advantage of losing heat through such a relatively small body part, especially since this part of the body has been covered ancestrally by many human beings for millennia?
 
Sammy Ambrose said:
Never had an issue with sweaty feet. But I think I am one of those folk whose feet simply don't sweat. And what is the biological advantage of losing heat through such a relatively small body part, especially since this part of the body has been covered ancestrally by many human beings for millennia?
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I‘m afraid, I’m unable to answer that. It may well be that it is no more than a product of imagination but I believe to feel it. I have stripped some of the rubber-blemished pairs, some I might just walk off. By the way: I have never had handwelted shoes resoled and am thinking about that for future jobs on Vass. Does anyone have any experience with their resoling service? I‘m not sure whether a machine-stitched sole would alter anything significantly but am losing trust in my cobbler slowly.
 
güero said:
People who routinely topy their soles probably also use those plastic couch covers. Don’t trust them.
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I really like those plastic covers for Jewish Shtreimel hats. I would get one, but Shtreimels are very expensive and I am not actually Jewish - so they might not sell one to me anyway.
 
I'm with fxh fxh on Topy and preventing death on marble or highly polished floors. A bit of moisture and it's easy to blow a wheel when you leather heel goes sliding out from under you.
 
Thruth said:
I'm with fxh fxh on Topy and preventing death on marble or highly polished floors. A bit of moisture and it's easy to blow a wheel when you leather heel goes sliding out from under you.
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Ever since a pair of double leather soled C&Js tried to kill me in the Parisian subway topy it is. Being a heavier person I still chose to have them resoled after a few years as the shoes tend to lose shape and stiffness over time.
 
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