The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

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W.I shoo-guy tries to elevate past shoos 101 to become a shoo guru (guroo), but fails miserably. He says the most important part of highend shoes is leather quality, but he gets it wrong again. The most important part of highend shoes is the ease of shoe rebuilds and the quality of the ride along with leather quality.

Highend goodyear offers great quality leather, but ease of rebuilds is limited and can be tricky. The quality of the ride is also limited due to mass construction techniques used in factories.

You see, if you try to put big boy pants on junioor shoomen, they never can pull it off. W.I shooguy will never be a big daddy. Shoes are mainly about the construction, that tells the real story.
 
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The Shooman said:
W.I shoo-guy tries to elevate past shoos 101 to become a shoo guru (guroo), but fails miserably. He says the most important part of highend shoes is leather quality, but he gets it wrong again. The most important part of highend shoes is the ease of shoe rebuilds and the quality of the ride along with leather quality.

Highend goodyear offers great quality leather, but ease of rebuilds is limited and can be tricky. The quality of the ride is also limited due to mass construction techniques used in factories.

You see, if you try to put big boy pants on junioor shoomen, they never can pull it off. W.I shooguy will never be a big daddy. Shoes are mainly about the construction, that tells the real story.
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Yes. He doesn't mention the 'ride' at all. This is typical of the clothing fora generally, where shoes and clothes can be perceived as things to be looked at rather than actually worn.
 
Sammy Ambrose said:
Yes. He doesn't mention the 'ride' at all. This is typical of the clothing fora generally, where shoes and clothes can be perceived as things to be looked at rather than actually worn.
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Yes, even the `so called' shoo experts who knows lots of things about shoos miss the main point of luxury handmade footwear. Luxury footwear is wasted on so many because they don't know what it is really about; they go by looks and leather quality, but they don't know why a Vass is miles better than an Edward green. Readings posts on shoes on some forums is like reading posts by a bunch of girls, it's all so shallow and meaningless.

Even if an Edward Green uses better leather than a Vass (not always), it still doesn't mean that an Edward Green is better. So much more comes into it, ie, the `connoisseur factor' and `construction factor' (both are closely linked). No-one ever talks about these things.

What is the `connoisseur factor'? It's the ride mate. Sadly few know about the ride, they think the C&J and handmades are all the same, and the only difference is some silly theory about gemming. They don't get it! Having conversations with these folks is useless and boring.
 
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Sammy Ambrose said:
Yes. He doesn't mention the 'ride' at all. This is typical of the clothing fora generally, where shoes and clothes can be perceived as things to be looked at rather than actually worn.
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By the look of a lot of these folks, they never really walk anywhere. Or, at least, never put hard miles on their shoes.
 
The Shooman said:
Yes, even the `so called' shoo experts who knows lots of things about shoos miss the main point of luxury handmade footwear. Luxury footwear is wasted on so many because they don't know what it is really about; they go by looks and leather quality, but they don't know why a Vass is miles better than an Edward green. Readings posts on shoes on some forums is like reading posts by a bunch of girls, it's all so shallow and meaningless.

Even if an Edward Green uses better leather than a Vass (not always), it still doesn't mean that an Edward Green is better. So much more comes into it, ie, the `connoisseur factor' and `construction factor' (both are closely linked). No-one ever talks about these things.

What is the `connoisseur factor'? It's the ride mate. Sadly few know about the ride, they think the C&J and handmades are all the same, and the only difference is some silly theory about gemming. They don't get it! Having conversations with these folks is useless and boring.
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We mustn't disregard 'fit' though. Although to a large degree this is s function of quality build, we cannot discount the importance of a last that agrees with the wearer' s foot in terms of size and shape.
 
Sammy Ambrose said:
We mustn't disregard 'fit' though. Although to a large degree this is s function of quality build, we cannot discount the importance of a last that agrees with the wearer' s foot in terms of size and shape.
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fit and comfort are so important. Building a shoo collection slowly is the way to go.
 
Sammy Ambrose said:
Very true. The shoes might as well be painted on.
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It’s not much different in the heritage boot scene either. For every well-worn pair of smokejumpers, there are million pics of John Lofgrens on Instagram that have obviously never been worn outside of the tech company office.
 
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The Shooman said:
W.I shoo-guy tries to elevate past shoos 101 to become a shoo guru (guroo), but fails miserably. He says the most important part of highend shoes is leather quality, but he gets it wrong again. The most important part of highend shoes is the ease of shoe rebuilds and the quality of the ride along with leather quality.

Highend goodyear offers great quality leather, but ease of rebuilds is limited and can be tricky. The quality of the ride is also limited due to mass construction techniques used in factories.

You see, if you try to put big boy pants on junioor shoomen, they never can pull it off. W.I shooguy will never be a big daddy. Shoes are mainly about the construction, that tells the real story.
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Maybe he will start discussing leather tanneries next, like this site:-
shoegazing.com

Guide - Shoe leather tanneries - Shoegazing.com

Shoegazing goes through many of the main tanneries for quality shoes, to give you a good overview of what, where and how things are made.
shoegazing.com shoegazing.com

I have only heard of a few of these. I have an oak bark tanned leather belt from the one in Devon. I did not know they also made shoe leather.
 
I've seen his videos and he always struck me as a collector with a bit of an addiction instead of an actual wearer of shoes. Virtually every shoe he reviews he says fits great and feels great, which is surprising, at least given my experience. How on earth does one buy shoes online from dozens of different makers and have 29/30 fit great and feel great?
 
Angelina Jolie wearing a pair of whites (probably Smoke Jumpers) on set.

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Otto said:
I've seen his videos and he always struck me as a collector with a bit of an addiction instead of an actual wearer of shoes. Virtually every shoe he reviews he says fits great and feels great, which is surprising, at least given my experience. How on earth does one buy shoes online from dozens of different makers and have 29/30 fit great and feel great?
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Yes, most of his shoe soles have barely a scratch on them. How would he know how they fit. You don't really know how a shoe fits until you have worn it a number of times under numerous different conditions (hot/cold etc) and put some miles on them.

His standards for fit probably aren't very high. Who wants to live like that? That is not a life, it is buying too much too soon before one knows what's what. Bound for regrets doing it that way.

He is trying to be a shooman and lead the way, but he needs to go to shoo school and learn properly. He is one of these self taught online shooboys, pthh. Everyone wants to be the teacher, but no-one wants to be the student anymore, so we have teachers online that don't know hardly anything.

I think l might have to start raising my voice and telling W.I Shoeguy what's what.
 
The Shooman said:
Yes, most of his shoe soles have barely a scratch on them. How would he know how they fit. You don't really know how a shoe fits until you have worn it a number of times under numerous different conditions (hot/cold etc) and put some miles on them.

His standards for fit probably aren't very high. Who wants to live like that? That is not a life, it is buying too much too soon before one knows what's what. Bound for regrets doing it that way.

He is trying to be a shooman and lead the way, but he needs to go to shoo school and learn properly. He is one of these self taught online shooboys, pthh. Everyone wants to be the teacher, but no-one wants to be the student anymore, so we have teachers online that don't know hardly anything.

I think l might have to start raising my voice and telling W.I Shoeguy what's what.
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you should school him The Shooman The Shooman .
 
Thruth said:
Skinny ass toes no me like
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The toe box height? The old-style low unstructured toes look great in photos, but I’m not sure I’d like to wear them.

A little hard to judge the pics above, but I think the toe shape looks nice - kind of a chisel shape.
 
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Dropbear said:
The toe box height? The old-style low unstructured toes look great in photos, but I’m not sure I’d like to wear them.

A little hard to judge the pics above, but I think the toe shape looks nice - kind of a chisel shape.
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I think that that style would look much better with a bulging toe, that flattening looks weird.
 
florisgreen said:
I think that that style would look much better with a bulging toe, that flattening looks weird.
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Eew. It’s a dress engineer boot, copying the style of some current high-end Japanese brands who are modelling theirs upon 1930s designs. The toes got bulbous in the 1950s when they became more of a workboot. Practical, but not sleek and attractive.

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Dropbear said:
Eew. It’s a dress engineer boot, copying the style of some current high-end Japanese brands who are modelling theirs upon 1930s designs. The toes got bulbous in the 1950s when they became more of a workboot. Practical, but not sleek and attractive.

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I'm not an expert and your philological analysis is surely correct, but, as I see, the bulbous toe suits the style perfectly. YMMV.
 
A nice and interesting pattern on a bespoke Gaziano&Girling. They call it Asymmetrical Brogue: the outside is like a Balmoral and the inside like an Oxford.

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The Elegant Oxford is trying to be like WI Shoeguy, both are trying to be shoo experts. These guys are wayyy out of their league. All they can do is talk shoo-101 and talk about appearances, they talk about nothing of substance, and all their videos are the same. There is no guts to their discussions, and countless videos on the internet offer the same mundane content.



These guys obviously have a hobby of talking about shoos online. My advice to them is...FIND A NEW HOBBY.
 
Had one of my boys arrive today, this little rippa on the P2 last. Stunning and worthy of having champagne to celebrate. Looks far better in the real life than in the picture. For me Vass are the shoes to wear: the fit, the leather, the build and the handwork make for the best shoe wearing experience. If there was only one shoe l could wear it would be Vass.

Have been adding red into it just now. Going to make it red.
Vass stunning P2.jpg

The lasts and artistry is not as exciting as some of the other makers, but the fit and shoe wearing experience makes up for all that. I am one happy fella.

Vass does the traditional shoes the best. The P2 is a funny old last, flat down one side and rounded on the outside like a banana, and it has a higher toe box, so it doesn't look as stunning as some of the English and Italian lasts, but I love it most of all because it fit me so well, and it has a nice narrow heel. The F last is an odd duck too, like a modern French style English shape with a higher toe box with wide casual welt...such a mutt of a shoe that makes no sense. The 3636 last is fantastic, and the Budapest is brilliant for those who are real shoe lovers.

Opening the box to a brand new pair of Vass are the most exciting days.
 
The prices for Lattanzi shoes are absolutely frightening these days.
8,659 euro for shell cordovan loafers. :o
18,000 euro for alligator shoes (Silvano quoted me last year).
about 80,000 euro for alligator boots.

www.silvanolattanzi.com

LONG - Silvano Lattanzi

CORDOVAN 8 – NORVEGESE CONSTRUCTION
www.silvanolattanzi.com www.silvanolattanzi.com


Guess who's stitchin' my shoos?
























































































Mr Lattanzi. I asked him to take a photo of himself stitchin' them.
Silvano Lattanzi man.jpg

Mr Lattanzi says he is the last of the great shoemakers, and indeed he is. No-one does what Silvano does. A genius mind, and uses quality leathers no-one else has got. He also does all the constructions, and his antiquings have an old world quality about them.
 
The Shooman said:
Had one of my boys arrive today, this little rippa on the P2 last. Stunning and worthy of having champagne to celebrate. Looks far better in the real life than in the picture. For me Vass are the shoes to wear: the fit, the leather, the build and the handwork make for the best shoe wearing experience. If there was only one shoe l could wear it would be Vass.

Have been adding red into it just now. Going to make it red.
View attachment 41386

The lasts and artistry is not as exciting as some of the other makers, but the fit and shoe wearing experience makes up for all that. I am one happy fella.

Vass does the traditional shoes the best. The P2 is a funny old last, flat down one side and rounded on the outside like a banana, and it has a higher toe box, so it doesn't look as stunning as some of the English and Italian lasts, but I love it most of all because it fit me so well, and it has a nice narrow heel. The F last is an odd duck too, like a modern French style English shape with a higher toe box with wide casual welt...such a mutt of a shoe that makes no sense. The 3636 last is fantastic, and the Budapest is brilliant for those who are real shoe lovers.

Opening the box to a brand new pair of Vass are the most exciting days.
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I love that.

The shape reminds me of a shoe that was known as a Como and was worn in the days of Manchester's Twisted Wheel club along brogues
The best leather soles Comos were made by Frank Wright and they were so popular that Timpson shoe shops brought out a cheaper crepe soled lookalike. Comos were black or oxblood, so if you want to make old Soul boys splutter with envy and admiration forget the red go for oxblood as the colour.
 
The shoe is a golden museum calf, but now it looks even better with red highlights and finished with burgundy wax. The shoe looks STUNNING now, but no photo does justice to it. Looks awful in the above pic, but completely eye popping in real life.
 
I’m going to wait for some reviews, but the new last and hardware look rad. Shinki horse hide is of course lovely, but I’m happy going for a lower grade leather for black boots.

 
The Shooman said:
The prices for Lattanzi shoes are absolutely frightening these days.
8,659 euro for shell cordovan loafers. :o
18,000 euro for alligator shoes (Silvano quoted me last year).
about 80,000 euro for alligator boots.

www.silvanolattanzi.com

LONG - Silvano Lattanzi

CORDOVAN 8 – NORVEGESE CONSTRUCTION
www.silvanolattanzi.com www.silvanolattanzi.com


Guess who's stitchin' my shoos?
























































































Mr Lattanzi. I asked him to take a photo of himself stitchin' them.
View attachment 41403

Mr Lattanzi says he is the last of the great shoemakers, and indeed he is. No-one does what Silvano does. A genius mind, and uses quality leathers no-one else has got. He also does all the constructions, and his antiquings have an old world quality about them.
Click to expand...
Dodgy looking geezer a bit like Swiss Toni..

‘Making shoes is very much like making love to a beautiful woman...’
 
More Indonesian boot porn.

www.stitchdown.com

Benzein’s New Engineer Boots—and Kapak Last—are Looking Gooooood - Stitchdown

Benzein is without question among the top bootmakers from Indonesia—an absolute hotbed of hand-welted bootmaking that sometimes seems to make quantum leaps in quality and craftsmanship every hour. And Benzein's new engineer boot—the Keeper Type 2—is good. Very good. So let's take a quick little...
www.stitchdown.com www.stitchdown.com
 
Handmade Hungarian shoes for a good price. PASSUS.

Passus shoes 1.jpg Passus shoes 2.jpg Passus shoes 3.jpg Passus shoes 4.jpg Passus shoes 5.jpg




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All handmade with hand stitched soles. Nice shoos here:


Wanted to order a navy and white spectator from John Lobb next year, but maybe i'll try one by this maker.


 
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