The Continental Forum Member Bored At Work Extravaganza

robertito said:
I don't think that people in this forum knew who Degrelle was until Sarto mentioned on a post. You probably knew him because he was a Walloon.
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He was wearing a Nazi (SS) uniform in the picture, that should trigger some alarms............... For your general info: he was not a Walloon, but from Brussels, he recruited nearly as many "followers" in Flanders as in Wallonie. His SS troops consisted mainly of young boys, stupid enough to follow him in his battle against the communists and ever so slightly encouraged by the Catholic priests who should have known better. Most of them died in Russia. Those who didn't went straight to jail after the war or came back just in time to commit some atrocities on innocent citizens and jews....
 
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while he was living in Spain and his name was Jose Leon Ramirez Reina he used to wear a white uniform with all german decorations. He was quite a hijo de puta, but in this forum everything related to Sarto has never taken very seriously.
 
Alfanauts said:
He was wearing a Nazi (SS) uniform in the picture, that should trigger some alarms............... For your general info: he was not a Walloon, but from Brussels, he recruited nearly as many "followers" in Flanders as in Wallonie. His SS troops consisted mainly of young boys, stupid enough to follow him in his battle against the communists and ever so slightly encouraged by the Catholic priests who should have known better. Most of them died in Russia. Those who didn't went straight to jail after the war or came back just in time to commit some atrocities on innocent citizens and jews....
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Sarto was more interested in the doctrine of Rexism. Would you chide the forum similarly if someone posted a historical figure in a Japanese Imperial Army uniform?
 
Thruth said:
Sarto was more interested in the doctrine of Rexism. Would you chide the forum similarly if someone posted a historical figure in a Japanese Imperial Army uniform?
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Yes, if I would recognize the uniform ... but the Japanese did not have something like the SS aka easily identified universal scoundrels. The doctrine of Rexism was total sh*** cobbled together to seduce simpletons or frustrated youths (just as ISIS is doing now)....if Sarto really was in to that ... well ....
 
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Alfanauts said:
Yes, if I would recognize the uniform ... but the Japanese did not have something like the SS aka easily identified universal scoundrels. The doctrine of Rexism was total sh*** cobbled together to seduce simpletons or frustrated youths (just as ISIS is doing now)....if Sarto really was in to that ... well ....
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sarto is a provoker, and the best way of dealing with this kind of people is to ignore them and no never take offense in anything they do/say.

I guarantee he doesn't say anything like this when he is in Alicante...
 
Scherensammler said:
I must have missed this first time round...
The "toile" was never a big thing in men's tailoring. In ladies yes, but not for men. Although I have seen images in an old French book where the author/ tailor is shaping a jacket on a customer/ male model.

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A modern system allows a tailor or dressmaker to skip this time consuming step and get a pattern straight away.
making a pattern (no matter what method is used) is a skill, and a system is only as good as the tailor using/ executing it. If he/ she/ hen is incapable of doing so (not able to measure correctly, for a start), then the result will suck. Even with beautiful buttonholes.
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.... Well, I am against mod cons and systems are for the UNgifted. But at least you found an example of how it was done the old way, bravo. You are not as UNknowledgeable as what could be concluded from the posting where you pretend that at any given moment in time there are at least or more tailoring houses where detailed execution is bad and overall cut is good than there are tailoring houses where detailed execution is bad and overall cut is good. As we all know, this probability is close to zero. But I guess you were influenced by UNtailors, so I forgive you.
 
Using a "toile" as we did in Haute Couture is handy when you are working with original models every time, very often these go from drawings straight to a customer's garment. There is no "standard" as in mens' where you only have a very limited number of suits. I am convinced that working with a toile, as my grandparents used to do in mens' has advantages, it teaches the tailor to look at the customer and the body in order to make a pattern and not the other way around. I my eyes working from a pattern towards a fit is not bespoke, but MTO, at least in essence. Tailors who grasp this have the potential to become great.
 
Alfanauts said:
Using a "toile" as we did in Haute Couture is handy when you are working with original models every time, very often these go from drawings straight to a customer's garment. There is no "standard" as in mens' where you only have a very limited number of suits. I am convinced that working with a toile, as my grandparents used to do in mens' has advantages, it teaches the tailor to look at the customer and the body in order to make a pattern and not the other way around. I my eyes working from a pattern towards a fit is not bespoke, but MTO, at least in essence. Tailors who grasp this have the potential to become great.
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lolz, another suit scientist post. toile suit fitting is for deformed geeks, fat boys and hunchbacks.
 
FriendCustomer said:
lolz, another suit scientist post. toile suit fitting is for deformed geeks, fat boys and hunchbacks.
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Not as UNknowledgeable as I thought, you gave a good description of the people who kept bespoke going when it was in the doldrums during the rise of RTW. You and Sheerensammler should think more before writing posts. For example think about how bespoke was done before systems, which were developed mainly in the interbellum years and deployed during the rise of RTW. Think about why women's haute couture has going from strength to strength more so than bespoke (and with higher pricing levels)... as I said from the beginning, the tunnel-vision will kill the business....as will mediocre peacocks.
 
robertito said:
Well, I am a typical mesomorph and if I go to gym I pack on some muscle very fast. I haven't been in a long time but I also have big chest and broad shoulders. I don't think I have weighted less than 80 kilos ever.
My usual size is 54, but this model fit me better on 56.
I never bougth SS
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You know those stereotypes don't exist, right? There is no scientific proof for it, and it comes from a discredited paper from the 1940s.
 
Arnie said:
Scherensammler, I am amazed and impressed by your knowledge. Therefore I have a question: Isn't it a bit "unfair" to compare the fit of suits with older, heavier fabric/cloth to newer suits of light weight? I am always told everything was better in the old days. I happen to own bespoke suits from the 80's and also bespoke ones from recently. The weight of the cloth is like two different worlds. And I can only wear my old suits in the midts of winter. My newer woolen bespoke and RTW suits are actually possible to wear almost all year round. But the drape is different. The old ones are more elegant, but also less comfortable. What are your thoughts?
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who are you???
 
FriendCustomer said:
Hello Arnie,

Welcome to the forum.

Do/did you use local bespoke tailors in your far corner of Europe? Or do you travel to see a bespoke tailor? What RTW do you like?

I usually just wear heavy cloths when its cold outside and lighter when its hot. Actually if you can get away with linen or mohair at work it is possible to wear relatively heavy cloth even when it is warm. This week I worked 4 days. Since it was not brutaly hot in Northern Europe this week, I had no problem wearing a 400g linen suit and two 400 g 3ply mohair suits. I also wore a 250g tropical worsted. Didn't really feel much of a difference any day. I was happy in all 4, but the two 400g mohair suits clearly draped the best.
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LOTSA WORDS
BUT WHAT DID YOU SAY?
 
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