THE Necktie Thread, Now With Handkerchiefs and Scarves

[Arnathor]

Sartodinapoli Will you be demounting this tie seller on SF?

 

[HenryC]

Ah, forgot to take photos. It turns out there was a little extra layer if lining in the knot area , and I just discarded that. In hindsight, I think the job would've gone much better with a curved needle instead of a straight one, right HenryC ?

Hmm not sure, Sarto might be best to answer that but I think straight should be ok. Certainly it's something that takes some time to master.

 

[Russell Street]

Shockingly, I could find no images of people actually sewing ties online. That hidden stitch might be easier with a really long needle too? Sarto?

 

[Russell Street]

What's with this knot where the underwrapping shows at the bottom?

It seems to be a trend now.

 

[HenryC]

Nothing but the iGent favoured double four in hand. Acceptable to me only if your tie is too long for you and even then you can tie it so the under wrap is hidden.

 

[doghouse]

Nothing but the iGent favoured double four in hand. Acceptable to me only if your tie is too long for you and even then you can tie it so the under wrap is hidden.

You can get the i revoked from your iGent card for that kinda talk man.

 

[Russell Street]

I've done multiple wraps and never had the underlayers show. They have to be doing this wrong on purpose.

 

[Thruth]

I've done multiple wraps and never had the underlayers show. They have to be doing this wrong on purpose.

Because you were not trying hard enough to make it seem like it turned out like that due to inattention which is the key to achieving Sprezz

 

[Journeyman]

Nothing but the iGent favoured double four in hand. Acceptable to me only if your tie is too long for you and even then you can tie it so the under wrap is hidden.

Exactly. I typically do a double FIH but I do it so that only layer of the "wrap" is showing.

The "double wrap with both layers showing" is indeed favoured by iGents, including the chaps from the Armoury, who also like the "side by side" knot, with both the front and the back of the tie showing at the same time.

I was in a menswear shop a couple of years back, tying my tie after trying on a shirt, and the young male assistant actually asked me why I didn't show both layers of the wrap - he was trying to persuade me that I should and he went to quite a bit of trouble to demonstrate to me, with his own tie, how to tie the tie so that both layers show.

 

[prince nez]

What's with this knot where the underwrapping shows at the bottom?

It seems to be a trend now.

The tie knot is the least of this guy's problems. Wearing a painfully new and shiny motorcycle jacket over a pinstripe 3 piece is a far more serious offence. Then there's his face.

 

[Journeyman]

The tie knot is the least of this guy's problems. Wearing a painfully new and shiny motorcycle jacket over a pinstripe 3 piece is a far more serious offence. Then there's his face.

It's shiny because it's waxed - it looks like a waxed cotton Belstaff moto jacket (or an RL clone thereof). Agree that wearing it over a three-piece, pinstriped suit is a sartorial hanging offence.

I suspect that his trousers are probably also two inches too short and that he's wearing leather oxford shoes without socks, too.

 

[prince nez]

It's shiny because he's just bought it - for 500 quid - and probably never, ever, ridden a motorbike. It's the brand new, money-buys-cred shinyness about it that really offends me. If it was worn a bit and foxed on the collar and around the pockets etc. it might be just a little bit cool. As it is he looks like a right ponce.

 

[Journeyman]

It's shiny because he's just bought it - for 500 quid - and probably never, ever, ridden a motorbike. It's the brand new, money-buys-cred shinyness about it that really offends me. If it was worn a bit and foxed on the collar and around the pockets etc. it might be just a little bit cool. As it is he looks like a right ponce.

To be fair, he might have worn it while puttering around the streets of Milan on a Vespa.

However, I agree that he'd never, ever wear it like this:

 

[prince nez]

Or like this:

(That's fxh first in line on the left.)

 

[Russell Street]

In the near future, I will be experimenting with tie-shortening at home.
It seems to me that I can simply open up the back blade to the first seam (not being a seamless all one piece of silk deal) and chop the required amount out there, re-sew, press the seam, chop the lining as needed and slip stitch it back together.
If Sartodinapoli or anyone that has ever made a tie could tell me if a curved needle would be recommended here, I'd appreciate the input. Using a straight needle on my foray into lining reduction proved meddlesome.

 

[Russell Street]

The lurker that donates money but not posts, Peak, gives this fabulous pictorial guide to DIY necktie narrowing on AAAC. But not here.
Narrowing a necktie

 

[foxandhound]

Out of interest, I was wondering if any of my fellow Antipodean posters or Brits use the term "necktie" themselves? It wasn't until I'd started lurking on clothing forums that I first encountered the term. A plain old "tie" was all I had ever known it as. Had I just been living under rock, or is it confined to use in North America only?

Also, do people use the two terms interchangeably in North America? To my ears, it still sounds a little clunky and awkward.

A: Is there a dress code for the event?
B: Just suit and necktie will suffice.

Suit and tie or shirt and tie seem to roll off the tongue that much more easily.

 

[Algernon Crisp]

In the near future, I will be experimenting with tie-shortening at home.
It seems to me that I can simply open up the back blade to the first seam (not being a seamless all one piece of silk deal) and chop the required amount out there, re-sew, press the seam, chop the lining as needed and slip stitch it back together.
If Sartodinapoli or anyone that has ever made a tie could tell me if a curved needle would be recommended here, I'd appreciate the input. Using a straight needle on my foray into lining reduction proved meddlesome.

According to the Drakes website, they use curved needles.

 

[LKP]

Out of interest, I was wondering if any of my fellow Antipodean posters or Brits use the term "necktie" themselves? It wasn't until I'd started lurking on clothing forums that I first encountered the term. A plain old "tie" was all I had ever known it as. Had I just been living under rock, or is it confined to use in North America only?

Also, do people use the two terms interchangeably in North America? To my ears, it still sounds a little clunky and awkward.

A: Is there a dress code for the event?
B: Just suit and necktie will suffice.

Suit and tie or shirt and tie seem to roll off the tongue that much more easily.

wearing a shirt would make the outfit a lot nicer

 

[Algernon Crisp]

My little collection from Drake's. These are all the hand-rolled, untipped type.

Left to right: 1. Silk, wool, linen mix 2. Shantung silk, very slubby. 3&4. Cashmere

 

[LKP]

My little collection from Drake's. These are all the hand-rolled, untipped type.

Left to right: 1. Silk, wool, linen mix 2. Shantung silk, very slubby. 3&4. Cashmere

View attachment 6917

very tasteful thirsts

 

[Algernon Crisp]

And a couple from The Merchant Fox (a sort of online shop for Fox Brothers).

Left to right: Wool houndstooth, wool / linen mix.

 

[Grand Potentate]

Nice Drakes ties Algernon Crisp

 

[Algernon Crisp]

Nice Drakes ties Algernon Crisp

Thanks. I should have said all opinions / criticisms / abuse welcome, although maybe that goes without saying round here.

 

[Leitmotif]

Thanks. I should have said all opinions / criticisms / abuse welcome, although maybe that goes without saying round here.

As long as you dont post machine made shirts, you will be alright.

 

[Algernon Crisp]

As long as you dont post machine made shirts, you will be alright.

That could be a problem. I've got a few proper shirts from the likes of Budd and so on, but I'm in the process of building up my wardrobe and compromises have to be made. Buying ties from Drake's means economising in other areas.

I bought 5 shirts for £110 from T M Lewin the other day - I'm guessing these would definitely count as unshirts?

 

[LKP]

That could be a problem. I've got a few proper shirts from the likes of Budd and so on, but I'm in the process of building up my wardrobe and compromises have to be made. Buying ties from Drake's means economising in other areas.

I bought 5 shirts for £110 from T M Lewin the other day - I'm guessing these would definitely count as unshirts?

dont buy overpriced chinaman drakes ties
go for Sartodinapoli real aryan inque jette ties

 

[Monkeyface]

dont buy overpriced chinaman drakes ties
go for Sartodinapoli real aryan inque jette ties

Only €75 a piece, with a €35 total discount if you buy 3. Those are seriously good prices, and I'll order some wool donegal ties from him once the weather cools down a bit.

 

[Grand Potentate]

I bought 5 shirts for £110 from T M Lewin the other day - I'm guessing these would definitely count as unshirts?

Seems like a decent price. Lewin is on part with Tyrwhitt from what I've read.

 

[LKP]

Only €75 a piece, with a €35 total discount if you buy 3. Those are seriously good prices, and I'll order some wool donegal ties from him once the weather cools down a bit.

PLUS we know that Sartodinapoli = m. marinella

 

[Algernon Crisp]

Only €75 a piece, with a €35 total discount if you buy 3. Those are seriously good prices, and I'll order some wool donegal ties from him once the weather cools down a bit.

Where do you by them from? I'm like a crackfiend, except for ties. Don't especially care for crack.

 

[Algernon Crisp]

Seems like a decent price. Lewin is on part with Tyrwhitt from what I've read.

They are what they are, of course. But for £22 / £25 a go in my view they're absolutely fantastic value. I've bought quite a few shirts from them and I don't think I've ever been disappointed, and they last a long time. I've tried Tyrwhitt and I prefer Lewin, although I've no complaints about CT. For what they charge they're fine as well.

It would be nice if whenever I needed a shirt I could just pop into Budd or T&A and have them get my paper pattern down and start snipping the poplin. But unfortunately finances prohibit such a thing. So until such day as I'm rolling in bags of oomph, T M Lewin are a good source of reasonable shirts at a great price.

The couple of shirts I've got from Budd really are something else though. I'd buy them by the barrowload if I could.

 

[Monkeyface]

Where do you by them from? I'm like a crackfiend, except for ties. Don't especially care for crack.

Message Sartodinapoli

 

[doghouse]

It would be nice if whenever I needed a shirt I could just pop into Budd or T&A and have them get my paper pattern down and start snipping the poplin.

Turnbull doesn't actually work that way.

CT and Lewin are both definitely good values. I get CT cotton trousers on the regular.

 

[Algernon Crisp]

Turnbull doesn't actually work that way.

CT and Lewin are both definitely good values. I get CT cotton trousers on the regular.

I've never had a bespoke shirt - doesn't seem worth the cost when the ready made ones fit well. I had a shirt from them that was excellent, although I wasn't all that keen on the collar shape. And their ties are really good.

 

[Thruth]

dont buy overpriced chinaman drakes ties
go for Sartodinapoli real aryan inque jette ties

Modern inque jette. Made sexy by handjobbing. Many passes lovingly rolling the rim. Special untipped treatments.

Jajajajja

 

[Thruth]

Where do you by them from? I'm like a crackfiend, except for ties. Don't especially care for crack.

From Sartodinapoli

 

[Thruth]

this fellow follows and likes Gianni and is a tie maker in his own right. at least he tells you his fabric is limited. not your average tie maker (his words not mine)

http://www.shaungordon.co.uk

The foundation of the collection: Behind Every Tie is a Great Man is a group of specially selected fabrics, each of which have triggered memories of personal experiences.

Memory: At school Blue had always been my favourite colour. Looking back it’s interesting how the love of a colour created an underlining connection with my peers, because all the boys liked blue at the time.

Memory: I have a fascination with crows and magpies in general, their intelligence and their almost regal walk intrigue me. Did you know they can recognise each human face to the detail?

Memory: As we walked through Lloyds park after feeding the swans, we saw all these colourful flowers. I was daring myself to pick some and give them to her. But I was too shy.

Memory: The colour brings to mind the beautiful tones of the sea at Montego Bay, Jamaica. We were only there for a couple of days to visit family and friends, but this was one of my favourite moments besides having a conversation with a Parrot.

Memory: I am ten years old and it was a fresh crisp bright morning, running around throwing leaves at my friends. As we sat down on the golden leaves, which made a quiet crunch sound, Catching our breath and laughing, we debated who was the strongest in our class.

Memory: My mother brought me a Pepsi sweat top, which I instantly loved, even when the material started to bobble and it got too small I could not resist wearing it. The texture reminds me that well-loved objects are personal treasures.

 

[HenryC]

They look to be very poorly stitched and balanced at the back. Very similar to some of the yellow hook ties I see. More homemade than handmade if that makes sense.

 

[Thruth]

They look to be very poorly stitched and balanced at the back. Very similar to some of the yellow hook ties I see. More homemade than handmade if that makes sense.

makes sense. neither his ties or his memories are particularly compelling

interesting about Yellowhook, i thought he had them made in a factory with pro sewers?