The SF/AAAC/FNB trainwreck thread

The evidence suggests that Fledgling:

doesn't actually understand what ivy is
believes ivy is a means of demonstrating that one is a right winger and a member of the establishment

IS before the new guy took over would have been heaven for him.
Ivy has many meanings.. The green creeper vines that grew on the walls of the four 'elite' North Eastern college campuses in the US Columbia, Dartmouth, Brown, Cornell. IV represented the number of these elite colleges.

'Ivy' has many different names, 'The Natural Shouldered Look', the J. Squeeze Look, Brooks Brothers men and later women respectively post 1970 when Brooks opened a women's department after popular demand from women "borrowing from the boys department".

There is a certain Bourgeoisie mindset connected to the look that can not be denied, but that really depends on how it's contrived. Ivy really has very little to do with the Mods, and the 'Jazz Ivy Style' really came about because middle class Jazz musicians were playing at colledge campuses and were being dressed by the Campus outfitters nearby, J. Press, Andover Shop, Chip, Brooks.

Ivy Style will always be cemented as part of the establishment due to the history of Americans high quality RTW business model that has been around since the mid 1850s...
 
The photos he posted are all from the past. There are innumerable shots of people in the past in proper ivy kit (unlike most of the shots he posted, incidentally) and who are not right wingers or members of the establishment. (Obviously there are also innumerable shots of people in the past in proper ivy kit who are right wingers and members of the establishment.)
This is true, and I can dig them up if you really need me to...
Most of my photos were in the Ivy League cannon, not plain old Ivy Style. There is a difference. Ivy League Style is the Upper establishment take, whilst Ivy Style is more middle class.
You should read Richard Presses book Threading the Needle if you want to know more about the minutia of the different styles
 
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The evidence suggests that Fledgling:

doesn't actually understand what ivy is
believes ivy is a means of demonstrating that one is a right winger and a member of the establishment

IS before the new guy took over would have been heaven for him.
Chensvold contributed a lot to the Ivy Style cannon, and he should be appreciated for his efforts.
He co-authored a book on the Look, plus contributed numerous articles and dug up a lot of historic content and imagery that would have otherwise gone unseen if not for his platform. What have you done to contribute asides from trash talk on forums honestly?
 
I don't trash talk. Or at least if I do, it's not the majority of my online ivy discourse. As for Chens: I've always tried to be objective about him. I've criticised the new guy far more than I've criticised Chens, however, objectively, both have their strengths and weaknesses.
 
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Ivy has many meanings.. The green creeper vines that grew on the walls of the four 'elite' North Eastern college campuses in the US Columbia, Dartmouth, Brown, Cornell. IV represented the number of these elite colleges.

'Ivy' has many different names, 'The Natural Shouldered Look', the J. Squeeze Look, Brooks Brothers men and later women respectively post 1970 when Brooks opened a women's department after popular demand from women "borrowing from the boys department".

There is a certain Bourgeoisie mindset connected to the look that can not be denied, but that really depends on how it's contrived. Ivy really has very little to do with the Mods, and the 'Jazz Ivy Style' really came about because middle class Jazz musicians were playing at colledge campuses and were being dressed by the Campus outfitters nearby, J. Press, Andover Shop, Chip, Brooks.

Ivy Style will always be cemented as part of the establishment due to the history of Americans high quality RTW business model that has been around since the mid 1850s...
Ivy clothing is a style of dress with specific details. Most of the shots you posted are not ivy, but do have some common ground with it. Some more than others. Whereas the Buckley shots are textbook ivy.
 
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Actually I'm suprised anyone knew of Hoffman on here, I'm not sure Hoffman is a "anti-Semite" he's more of an anti zionist and an American isolationist, as was Buckley to a certain extent. But Buckley was ex- CIA so he can't really be taken too seriously. A roman catholic playing the character of a WASP..

That's no justification for posting shots of Holocaust deniers. Unsurprisingly really, as it's inexcusable.
 
Regrettable but predictable, given the personalities of the contributors, to read the disparaging comments about Talk Ivy on this forum. I for one can say that, never having had the benefit of a further education, I have not only learned a modicum about clothes but being in touch with T.I. members has encouraged me to learn more about subjects like modern architecture, jazz and American social history, things I probably wouldn't have bothered with otherwise. T.I. members have gone on to start successful blogs, co-authored books on the subject and at least four have designed, produced and sold items of clothing. This is more than can be said for any other forum I'm aware of,certainly more than Dressed Well where the only significant output appears to be negativity and sneering.
 
Chensvold contributed a lot to the Ivy Style cannon, and he should be appreciated for his efforts.
He co-authored a book on the Look, plus contributed numerous articles and dug up a lot of historic content and imagery that would have otherwise gone unseen if not for his platform. What have you done to contribute asides from trash talk on forums honestly?
Chens could do a good enough journalistic essay on on some aspects of USA Ivy history but he was hampered by his striving aspirational usa exceptionalism and blinkered by a lack of insight into classes in society, and a total incomprehension of the British (and black jazz) Ivy and his reliance on plagiarising content from Talk Ivy.
 
Chens could do a good enough journalistic essay on on some aspects of USA Ivy history but he was hampered by his striving aspirational usa exceptionalism and blinkered by a lack of insight into classes in society, and a total incomprehension of the British (and black jazz) Ivy and his reliance on plagiarising content from Talk Ivy.
Yes I agree, Chensvold was a bit too obsessed with his WASPy aspiration, but if not for his obsessions we wouldn't have any of the content at all. It takes a certain eccentric personality to live their lives like an open wound on the web, so I'm really not too picky about the spokespersons for Menswear provided they actually do their job and produce quality content with some consistency.

Chens did mention that black jazz elements of Ivy somewhat regularly on his blog..

I'm not too crazy about the British Ivy Look. It always seemed to me more like a derivative variant of the American Soft Shouldered Look, and I always viewed it as a bad counterfeit. The problem with British Ivy is that they don't put the clothes together in a way that's appealing to anyone asides from a Brit. It's a less developed look that lacks that certain finesse that the Americans had due to their home grown knowledge of the genre.

I like the British Trad Look like the Sloan Ranger Style etc. But I prefer the American Ivy/Trad/WASPy Look instead.

I never read Talk Ivy, so I can't comment.
 
Ivy clothing is a style of dress with specific details. Most of the shots you posted are not ivy, but do have some common ground with it. Some more than others. Whereas the Buckley shots are textbook ivy.
I'm growing weary of this disagreement we're having... I'll let you define the genre from now on since I'm running out of patients with this topic.
 
That's no justification for posting shots of Holocaust deniers. Unsurprisingly really, as it's inexcusable.
I'm not his publicist or part of his P.R. campaign so I don't really care if you dislike the man. Why don't you write your own journalism discrediting his work instead of talking to me about him on a forum..?
Sometimes you've just got to learn to detach the people from the clothes. e.g. Tom Ford promotes men becoming involved in Sodomy on GQ, yet he's arguably one of the better designers of his generation... I find his statements disagreeable, but that doesn't mean he's not at least decent at designing clothing and putting together looks.

Dressing well is a sport to some, and there are looks that accompany certain philosophies and dispositions in life. A man has to strive to create certain looks, a person with visible hand and neck tattoos will never be able to cultivate the Ivy Look yet he could easily do a Junkie Biker Look, it's as much about the sensibilities of the wearer being in alignment with the Look itself.
There are many disagreeable Looks existing in society. The sign of untucked shirt fronts used to symbolise the Cad, where as nowadays it's just the normal for most sloppy men in the 21st Century. The reality is that some of the guys who dress Ivy are not centralists politically, but at least they comport themselves with a bit more dignity then the bottom feeders wearing T-shirts in public (which is technically underwear).
However flannels were once used for underwear back in the 17th century for both men and women so it's all relative.

Honestly Bongo head I think you struggle to grasp the emotive quality of clothes. Maybe you should spend more time reading books then barking at others on forums.

I don't know what you want from people bongo player, what does your utopia look like?
I am not a Talmudic scholar so I can't comment on the book, have you read it? Can you read the Hebrew scriptures? How few people actually understand the religions in the world well enough to take a stance without following the heard mentality group think?
You strike me as some degenerate Atheist, I wouldn't be suprised if your riddled with STDs and covered in tattoos.
Hoffman seems to have gone out on his own and written a few books, how many books have you written? Do you think anyone would even want to publish the half baked drivel you write on forums, or would you just make a blog post and call it a day?

Rack off.
 
Sometimes you've just got to learn to detach the people from the clothes.

1643212597770.webp

Dashing dresser - little shaky on the ethics.


You strike me as some degenerate Atheist, I wouldn't be suprised if your riddled with STDs and covered in tattoos.

Hold on there, Martha - I'm covered in tattoos. How is this connected to my religion, sexual health but more to the point here, the way I dress?
 
im not denying that they exist i'm just saying that they don't exist, outside of the ivy league and educational institutions.
It was really the department store look by the 60s. It went mainstream pretty damn quick and Tucker Carlson sports it today.
The only people wearing ivy in the 50s and 60s were in education? You're way off.
Everybody was wearing it. But in 1963, Miles Davis ditched it for Italian suits.
Its all a bit fuddy duddy really isn't it? And if I'm thinking that at my age it must be.
It's sharp when done right, but many elements are dated now. The Go to Hell Look, it's embarrassingly old hat and indeed, fuddy duddy, the American equivalent of a moldy fig type. Not that there's anything wrong with trad jazz.
Actually I'm suprised anyone knew of Hoffman on here, I'm not sure Hoffman is a "anti-Semite" he's more of an anti zionist and an American isolationist, as was Buckley to a certain extent. But Buckley was ex- CIA so he can't really be taken too seriously. A roman catholic playing the character of a WASP..
Buckley was great, camp as the Go to Hell look and should be a queer icon, along with the chap he threatened here:



The WASP:



As for Hoffman and his mucca: total tossers...how can anybody take such twisted deviants seriously? They're figures to be laughed at. And as for posting them as examples of some sartorial style...FFS, they haven't got any.
There is a certain Bourgeoisie mindset connected to the look that can not be denied, but that really depends on how it's contrived. Ivy really has very little to do with the Mods, and the 'Jazz Ivy Style' really came about because middle class Jazz musicians were playing at colledge campuses and were being dressed by the Campus outfitters nearby, J. Press, Andover Shop, Chip, Brooks.

Ivy Style will always be cemented as part of the establishment due to the history of Americans high quality RTW business model that has been around since the mid 1850s...
Ivy style is basically the department store look of the USA mid-20th century modern. I dig that egalitarian sharing of what was an elite collegiate style.

The Mods are/were an eclectic bunch, they always mixed it up:



This is true, and I can dig them up if you really need me to...
Most of my photos were in the Ivy League cannon, not plain old Ivy Style. There is a difference. Ivy League Style is the Upper establishment take, whilst Ivy Style is more middle class.
You should read Richard Presses book Threading the Needle if you want to know more about the minutia of the different styles
No it isn't, it's an American mainstream style that lives on today in the preppy trad of RL, Kamukura, J.Press, Orvis and that cheaper brand who's name escapes me now. Nothing upper establishment there, in the here and now.

That's no justification for posting shots of Holocaust deniers. Unsurprisingly really, as it's inexcusable.
Strange, I didn't quite get the connection he was trying to make either. Ivy as the style choice of anti-Semites?
Regrettable but predictable, given the personalities of the contributors, to read the disparaging comments about Talk Ivy on this forum. I for one can say that, never having had the benefit of a further education, I have not only learned a modicum about clothes but being in touch with T.I. members has encouraged me to learn more about subjects like modern architecture, jazz and American social history, things I probably wouldn't have bothered with otherwise. T.I. members have gone on to start successful blogs, co-authored books on the subject and at least four have designed, produced and sold items of clothing. This is more than can be said for any other forum I'm aware of,certainly more than Dressed Well where the only significant output appears to be negativity and sneering.
Indeed, some great folk over in Talk Ivy, along with some weirdo freaks.
Yes I agree, Chensvold was a bit too obsessed with his WASPy aspiration, but if not for his obsessions we wouldn't have any of the content at all. It takes a certain eccentric personality to live their lives like an open wound on the web, so I'm really not too picky about the spokespersons for Menswear provided they actually do their job and produce quality content with some consistency.

Chens did mention that black jazz elements of Ivy somewhat regularly on his blog..

I'm not too crazy about the British Ivy Look. It always seemed to me more like a derivative variant of the American Soft Shouldered Look, and I always viewed it as a bad counterfeit. The problem with British Ivy is that they don't put the clothes together in a way that's appealing to anyone asides from a Brit. It's a less developed look that lacks that certain finesse that the Americans had due to their home grown knowledge of the genre.

I like the British Trad Look like the Sloan Ranger Style etc. But I prefer the American Ivy/Trad/WASPy Look instead.

I never read Talk Ivy, so I can't comment.
Chensvold was a dandy, as his interior decorating tastes to attest to, who jumped on the Ivy wagon when he spotted the train leaving the station.
 
Its like an invasion from the Dark Side on here now. One trick ponies, pretty boring really and desperate clothing images to boot. Maybe not so content with their closed shop afterall.
 
Regrettable but predictable, given the personalities of the contributors, to read the disparaging comments about Talk Ivy on this forum. I for one can say that, never having had the benefit of a further education, I have not only learned a modicum about clothes but being in touch with T.I. members has encouraged me to learn more about subjects like modern architecture, jazz and American social history, things I probably wouldn't have bothered with otherwise. T.I. members have gone on to start successful blogs, co-authored books on the subject and at least four have designed, produced and sold items of clothing. This is more than can be said for any other forum I'm aware of,certainly more than Dressed Well where the only significant output appears to be negativity and sneering .
Looks like your blending in nicely going on your first post.
 
You strike me as some degenerate Atheist, I wouldn't be suprised if your riddled with STDs and covered in tattoos.
Hoffman seems to have gone out on his own and written a few books, how many books have you written? Do you think anyone would even want to publish the half baked drivel you write on forums, or would you just make a blog post and call it a day?
'Surely no one expects to be taken seriously making comments like that?
Yes I agree, Chensvold was a bit too obsessed with his WASPy aspiration, but if not for his obsessions we wouldn't have any of the content at all. It takes a certain eccentric personality to live their lives like an open wound on the web, so I'm really not too picky about the spokespersons for Menswear provided they actually do their job and produce quality content with some consistency. Chens did mention that black jazz elements of Ivy somewhat regularly on his blog..

Chens was demonised on Talk Ivy but while he was riding the Ivy train he did at least take the trouble to find something out about the subject. He challenged the views of some of the less savoury posters of Ivy Style but it was generally in a fairly half hearted way.

I'm not too crazy about the British Ivy Look. It always seemed to me more like a derivative variant of the American Soft Shouldered Look, and I always viewed it as a bad counterfeit. The problem with British Ivy is that they don't put the clothes together in a way that's appealing to anyone asides from a Brit. It's a less developed look that lacks that certain finesse that the Americans had due to their home grown knowledge of the genre.

I like the British Trad Look like the Sloan Ranger Style etc. But I prefer the American Ivy/Trad/WASPy Look instead.

I never read Talk Ivy, so I can't comment.
Where do you get you ideas of the British take on the Ivy look? As far as I'm aware Talk Ivy in its heyday is the only British Internet place where large numbers of outfit photos have been posted and lets not forget that many of the contributors were Americans. However I agree with a lot you've said there. I would be hard pressed to pin down what constitutes the British take on an Ivy Look as it's never been more than a small minority interest anway. It's rare enough to see anyone sporting an Ivy look in NYC let alone in London.Natural shoulders, rolling button down collars, chino type trousers and certain footwear are a starting point. Thereafter divining the differences seems tougher, especially as so many items in the Ivy wardrobe are British derived anyway. There's possibly a more muted approach in the UK with loud check jackets and GTH items being passed over and a stronger French and Italian influence. The other point is that fewer and fewer men dress formally so if you no longer see many men dressed in traditional English suits it becomes harder to contrast the subtle differences between them and a sack cut natural shoulder jacket. You can't completely ignore that trend of informality without appearing to be eccentric (perish the thought) so it follows that UK Ivy fans would now have less tendency to dress up in full Ivy regalia anyway.
 
The whole idea of a UK Ivy 'Look' is stuck in the mud. To continue to see it as subversive, modernist is delusional. The only sensible use is to break it for parts.
 
Let me write this out like they do over on the dark side so its easy for the new storm troopers to understand.


Fledgling said,


"Hoffman seems to have gone out on his own and written a few books, how many books have you written? Do you think anyone would even want to publish the half baked drivel you write on forums, or would you just make a blog post and call it a day?"

Then Whining Wrestler wrote,

"'Surely no one expects to be taken seriously making comments like that?"

Whining also wrote,

"T.I. members have gone on to start successful blogs, co-authored books on the subject and at least four have designed, produced and sold items of clothing. This is more than can be said for any other forum I'm aware of,certainly more than Dressed Well"

Double standards, maybe?
 
It was really the department store look by the 60s. It went mainstream pretty damn quick and Tucker Carlson sports it today.
Tucker Carlson grew up a Prepster so I'm not suprised he sports the look. Yes it was maintstream post WW2 in America until around the time of the 70s. In reality the invention of Dacron aka Polyester is part of what ruined menswear and the longue suit forever. The babyboomers began to view the longue suit as "stuffy" due to the fact that it was made up of higher and higher amounts of synthetic fibres in the hopes of creating products that didn't need to be pressed or ironed as often etc. However this resulted in clothes that didn't breath well and were rejected by the Hippy generation. Menswear has never really recovered from this development in synthetic fibres and the "stuffy" connotations still persist today.
 
Then Whining Wrestler wrote,

"'Surely no one expects to be taken seriously making comments like that?"
whining so much and in such a prolonged fashion that this was actually his second post on this forum. This referenced the crazy assumption that Bongo must be an atheist and therefore by definition covered in tattoos and riddled with STDs. I didn’t take you for a religous maniac Sauce.
Whining also wrote,

"T.I. members have gone on to start successful blogs, co-authored books on the subject and at least four have designed, produced and sold items of clothing. This is more than can be said for any other forum I'm aware of,certainly more than Dressed Well"

Double standards, maybe?

I’m sorry but being uneducated you’ll have to explain to me even more simply why this is double standards Sauce.
 
Everybody was wearing it. But in 1963, Miles Davis ditched it for Italian suits.
Highly unlikely, with the James Dean Rebel Look vying and contesting for followers I'm doubtful everyone was wearing it.
No it isn't, it's an American mainstream style that lives on today in the preppy trad of RL, Kamukura, J.Press, Orvis and that cheaper brand who's name escapes me now. Nothing upper establishment there, in the here and now.
It seems like you don't do your research at all. Go to the library or purchase that book I mentioned for a few dollars if you want a better idea. Alternatively find the book titles 'A History of Mens Fashion' or 'Ivy Style'.
Strange, I didn't quite get the connection he was trying to make either. Ivy as the style choice of anti-Semites?
I didn't get it either.
 
'Surely no one expects to be taken seriously making comments like that?


Chens was demonised on Talk Ivy but while he was riding the Ivy train he did at least take the trouble to find something out about the subject. He challenged the views of some of the less savoury posters of Ivy Style but it was generally in a fairly half hearted way.


Where do you get you ideas of the British take on the Ivy look? As far as I'm aware Talk Ivy in its heyday is the only British Internet place where large numbers of outfit photos have been posted and lets not forget that many of the contributors were Americans. However I agree with a lot you've said there. I would be hard pressed to pin down what constitutes the British take on an Ivy Look as it's never been more than a small minority interest anway. It's rare enough to see anyone sporting an Ivy look in NYC let alone in London.Natural shoulders, rolling button down collars, chino type trousers and certain footwear are a starting point. Thereafter divining the differences seems tougher, especially as so many items in the Ivy wardrobe are British derived anyway. There's possibly a more muted approach in the UK with loud check jackets and GTH items being passed over and a stronger French and Italian influence. The other point is that fewer and fewer men dress formally so if you no longer see many men dressed in traditional English suits it becomes harder to contrast the subtle differences between them and a sack cut natural shoulder jacket. You can't completely ignore that trend of informality without appearing to be eccentric (perish the thought) so it follows that UK Ivy fans would now have less tendency to dress up in full Ivy regalia anyway.
Chens was certainly questionable

This is a good summary of the British Ivy Look. Ivy Style still works in todays day and age because there are more opportunities to wear separates rather then a ditto longue suit.
 
I don't trash talk. Or at least if I do, it's not the majority of my online ivy discourse. As for Chens: I've always tried to be objective about him. I've criticised the new guy far more than I've criticised Chens, however, objectively, both have their strengths and weakness
I don't normally find anti-Semitic nutjobs amusing, but credit where credit's due: the above post did make me lol.
Bongo head you are an absolute clown, but I'll indulge you one last time to gauge the gusto of your skills at contriving the Ivy Look/Ivy League or Trad Soft Shouldered Look.
Tell the group, how does one contrived the Bell shape with a tie and button down collar?
Also is 'collar roll' a legitimate thing or simply a misnomer?
How you answer these questions says everything about your knowledge of the genre since the BD collar is the centrepiece of the look.
 
Tell the group, how does one contrived the Bell shape with a tie and button down collar?
Also is 'collar roll' a legitimate thing or simply a misnomer?
How you answer these questions says everything about your knowledge of the genre since the BD collar is the centrepiece of the look.

Your questions are shit.
 
whining so much and in such a prolonged fashion that this was actually his second post on this forum. This referenced the crazy assumption that Bongo must be an atheist and therefore by definition covered in tattoos and riddled with STDs. I didn’t take you for a religous maniac Sauce.


I’m sorry but being uneducated you’ll have to explain to me even more simply why this is double standards Sauce.
Whining, rather than Barking, Wrestler rather than Pugilist. Get it?

Double standards because you have come on here, ranting in your first post about how wonderful and creative TI is because people that used to post on there have had clothes made and sold as a hobby, wrote bloggs, as a hobby and had a few books published that paid for food in their homes for a month. Before adding its more than anyone on this forum has done-stating; "This forum's only significant output appears to be negativity and sneering". Then having a pop at someone who was just as demeaning to Bongo because he hasn't wrote a book.
That was the part of Fledgling's post I quoted, not the bit about about being atheist (I am atheist) nor tattoos (I have a full sleeve and a half sleeve) nor STDs (which at this point in my life I don't but I'm working on it).

I will say that the reason I've never "designed" clothes as a hobby or wrote a book is that I have a full time job that pays enough for me to use good Italian tailoring firms, so I don't have the need to scratch about getting 10 coats made so I can sell nine and keep one for free. I used to have a blogg that I did for two years before I got bored doing it. The same blogg that a TI clothing maker asked me to do a feature on his company on, sending me one of his shirts in the process. A solid product but hardly Inglese standard. If I want to know about a subject or person, (ranging from Modernist furniture design to Nelson Peery, for instance) I tend to buy books on the matter rather than gaining opinion from people on clothing forums who have read books on the same subject.

I can't speak for everyone on this forum but I should think most members are more or less in the same boat with regard to their own clothing desires and approach to acquiring knowledge on a subject. Seems standard issue to me.
 
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Your questions are shit.
See your answer proves your total utter lack of knowledge about the emotive quality of the centre piece of the Ivy Look, The Button Down Collar.
Why don't you prove your knowledge of Sartorial Semiotics, if you have any at all and answer the question.
Quite sad really, nothing but a menswear neophyte.
 
That was the part of Fledgling's post I quoted, not the bit about about being atheist (I am atheist) nor tattoos (I have a full sleeve and a half sleeve) nor STDs (which at this point in my life I don't but I'm working on it).

I will say that the reason I've never "designed" clothes as a hobby or wrote a book is that I have a full time job that pays enough for me to use good Italian tailoring firms, so I don't have the need to scratch about getting 10 coats made so I can sell nine and keep one for free. I used to have a blogg that I did for two years before I got bored doing it. The same blogg that a TI clothing maker asked me to do a feature on his company on, sending me one of his shirts in the process. A solid product but hardly Inglese standard. If I want to know about a subject or person, (ranging from Modernist furniture design to Nelson Peery, for instance) I tend to buy books on the matter rather than gaining opinion from people on forums who have read books on the same subject.

I can't speak for everyone on this forum but I should think most members are more or less in the same boat with regard to their own clothing desires and approach to acquiring knowledge on a subject. Seems standard issue to me.
Sauce obviously not all Atheist are clowns, only Bongo head.
Glad to hear some people actually read books around here. It's what separates those who actually care about learning and progressing in their interest from the iGents, of which I suspect Bongo head is one.
 
Sauce obviously not all Atheist are clowns, only Bongo head.
Glad to hear some people actually read books around here. It's what separates those who actually care about learning and progressing in their interest from the iGents, of which I suspect Bongo head is one.
Bongo is a good guy, an adopted son of my home town to boot. He just has a strange outlook on clothing. He's a woke liberal, offended by everything so you have to tread lightly with pictures of neo-cons. Personally I think Stone is as big a piece of shit as Tucker Carlson but I've only been offended by you for posting patch madras sports coats.
 

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