Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

Rambo

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booo bring back the jeans and chinese food in the boonies!
 

Buitenlander

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A couple things for summer. Same tailor, made at the same time. I like the fit of the suit better but the blazer is fine. Just not as good. Can’t tell why, length? Balance? He said my pants are too short and to try this length for the summer.
 

Journeyman

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The lighting could be better as we can't see all the details clearly, but the blazer definitely looks shorter. Did you ask for it to be cut shorter?

I do prefer the length of the suit jacket, as it seems to have better balance.

From what I can see, trouser length looks fine.
 

Buitenlander

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The lighting could be better as we can't see all the details clearly, but the blazer definitely looks shorter. Did you ask for it to be cut shorter?

I do prefer the length of the suit jacket, as it seems to have better balance.

From what I can see, trouser length looks fine.
Silhouette looks good to me. Another Italian or have you risked the Dutch tailors yet?
I was being sarcastic about the trouser length, doesn’t come off on the the internet very well. Tailor said my pants were too short and my jacket too tight. He mentioned military about the fit of my jacket. I did not ask for the blazer to be shorter. We took a long time getting the suit jacket fit down. I am very happy with the fit of it. I was surprised they were different.
I will try to take some better photos. That was in a last minute hotel room as the delivery was late a couple days.
Italian tailor. I have had a few things made in Holland but have had the same problems. Everything is always too small. No matter how much I ask for a more “classic” fit. Tight in the chest, shoulders, thighs. Everywhere, really.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Everything is always too small. No matter how much I ask for a more “classic” fit. Tight in the chest, shoulders, thighs. Everywhere, really.

And definitely too short! They're into that tight, constricted and constrained look. It is possible to rage against it, but most of the tailors who have knowledge of other cuts are retired or disinterested as no one here wants anything other than the off duty footballer look.
 

The Shooman

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And definitely too short! They're into that tight, constricted and constrained look. It is possible to rage against it, but most of the tailors who have knowledge of other cuts are retired or disinterested as no one here wants anything other than the off duty footballer look.
I see so many coats that are tight around the arms these days. People wear them like sweaters. It is a horrible look.

examples coats tight around the arms:



and then there are the tight trousers.

Menswear is so effeminate these days.
 

The Shooman

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I visited my shirtmaker while interstate and ordered 3 shirts; one in pink, one in a luxurious white and the other in a luxurious light blue.

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Charles tells me the cotton for the white and blue are the absolute best Swiss cotton in the world, and indeed they are much finer than sictess fabrics which are already remarkable.

T@Asser fabrics don't compare in my experience.

Btw...Trump has Alex Kabbaz make his shirts. He buys heaps from him. Charles tells me this.
 
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The Shooman

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One of the masterpieces Charles made for me last year. Took an entire day (a very long day) for him to make this. He made me one in light blue and one in white from acorn 3 ply fabric (Took almost half a week of full days to make both). Once in a lifetime bespoke creation only very few ever experience.

The

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yeahokaywhatever

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T@Asser fabrics don't compare in my experience.


They don’t carry Alumo in their bespoke fabrics catalogue? Or does TA have a specific house shirting fabric that they make and mill? I asked if they had the Alumo a while back and they said they did.
 
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The Shooman

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They don’t carry Alumo in their bespoke fabrics catalogue? Or does TA have a specific house shirting fabric that they make and mill? I asked if they had the Alumo a while back and they said they did.
Ah o.k...maybe their higher end fabrics use this, but their regular business shirt ranges don't. Or maybe Alumo is available for bespoke.

fxh fxh specially designed summer shirts for the epitome of smart casual elegance. While Charles will never do anything as extensive as that again, he is going to make me three 4 pocket shirts in 2 ply Alumo with epaulets and cut short to wear untucked in the colours of navy blue, white and another colour l need to think about soon. The navy will look great with white mother of pearl buttons in a beautiful textured fabric with custom deep red cotton pants and navy bloo shoos.

I like this post by Sator:

"There are customers of Charles' I know who still swear by him after trying all of these, Borrelli MTM, John Cutler, Hemden, and even Charvet in Paris".
 
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The Shooman

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Let me just say that l wore the Alumo adula 120's/2 twill for the first time yesterday and felt like a King. It is the best fabric l have ever worn by far, and a notch or two above the usual Alumo fabrics. I've always wanted a perfect white shirt and now l have it. The blue shirt is the same quality. Total seduction.
 

The Shooman

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Got these things recently. Summer shirts designed to be worn untucked. Navy shirt and navy striped shirt. Will go good with red cotton trousers and ordinary bone trousers. Very versatile, and allows for great daring shoo combinations like navy/white spec loafer, navy blue suede chukka and other blue shoos. Will also go well with tan shoes when worn with white shirt and black horsebit fancy loafers. Trousers are bright red, not pink.




Shirt is dark blue stripe and white. Looks much sharper than in picture.

 

Kingstonian

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Graham Browne used to have New Year sale that Crompton always advertised. I wandered down there, as it is always quiet between Christmas and the New Year. I did not venture in though. I am not sure if the original pair still work there now. They started getting bad reviews and Crompton moved onto Savile Row.

Henry Herbert appear to be off Lambs Conduit Street but I have never seen them. They must be beside The Lamb pub. Connock and Lockie or Sims and McDonald are the prominent tailors on that street.
 

Kingstonian

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Sounds like Henry Herbert was a new kid on the block in need of publicity from a discerning menswear blogger
King and Allen are a similar low price tailor near me.
Then there’s the Indian chap who always advertises in the Evening Standard
 

Lobbster

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Are these non SR shops any good? Decent MTM by someone who know his stuff like Mason seems a safer bet.

The only tailor in the UK I've seen outisde of London. Popped in once to take a look. Everything looked decent but they seem to have moved from bespoke to more MTM.

 

Untermensch

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Well, GD Golding in St Albans has a royal warrant. They make livery and uniforms aside from civvy suits, so that's probably why they have the royal warrant, so it's no indication of what Crompers calls "style". Still, they'd have to supply consistently good work, perfect in all the details, in order to retain it.

Rumour has it David Cameron used to get his suits cut by Mr Golding.

 

Kingstonian

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Crompton could use George’s in Walworth. He is from Peckham so they would be neighbours . Crompton could discuss provenance with him. Also has celeb customers. Probably too much of a London geezer for Crompton though. Although if he is happy in the company of tattooists....

 

doghouse

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What happened to Richie Charlton, still over at Alexander McQueen?
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Are these non SR shops any good? Decent MTM by someone who know his stuff like Mason seems a safer bet.

The only tailor in the UK I've seen outisde of London. Popped in once to take a look. Everything looked decent but they seem to have moved from bespoke to more MTM.


There's a couple in the Cheshire stock broker belt.
 

belinmad

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Graham Browne used to have New Year sale that Crompton always advertised. I wandered down there, as it is always quiet between Christmas and the New Year. I did not venture in though. I am not sure if the original pair still work there now. They started getting bad reviews and Crompton moved onto Savile Row.

Henry Herbert appear to be off Lambs Conduit Street but I have never seen them. They must be beside The Lamb pub. Connock and Lockie or Sims and McDonald are the prominent tailors on that street.

Russell Howarth still runs Graham Browne. Decent work but you have to be on him to get details right. They are back into the shop this coming week. I have about 6-8 suits cut by Russell. Value for money, I think he is pretty good.

Dan MacAngus, who used to work with Russell, now co-runs Macangus and Wainwright, over at St. Michael's Alley in the city, a few blocks away from Russell and just behind Cad & The Dandy city's location. He is a much more technical and meticulous cutter than Russell, and in my view probably the best value for money in London these days. I similarly must have 8-10 suits, jackets, coats and other items cut by him.

Both have a soft, typical City house style, but are open to trying things when the customers know what they want.

I can try to post some pics if people are interested.
 

Kingstonian

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‘I can try to post some pics if people are interested.’

Go for it. I must say you have a lot of suits 14 to 18 between those two tailors.
 

Thruth

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Russell Howarth still runs Graham Browne. Decent work but you have to be on him to get details right. They are back into the shop this coming week. I have about 6-8 suits cut by Russell. Value for money, I think he is pretty good.

Dan MacAngus, who used to work with Russell, now co-runs Macangus and Wainwright, over at St. Michael's Alley in the city, a few blocks away from Russell and just behind Cad & The Dandy city's location. He is a much more technical and meticulous cutter than Russell, and in my view probably the best value for money in London these days. I similarly must have 8-10 suits, jackets, coats and other items cut by him.

Both have a soft, typical City house style, but are open to trying things when the customers know what they want.

I can try to post some pics if people are interested.

Please do. There are very little sartorial postings on this sartorial website lately and I can find crazy COVID and Occupy America discussions anywhere. Please don't post vintage jumpers with golfers, sheep, stags, or turtles. We have enough of that too.
 

belinmad

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‘I can try to post some pics if people are interested.’

Go for it. I must say you have a lot of suits 14 to 18 between those two tailors.

Yes. I like suits and I wear them to work every day (or I used to, pre covid anyway). I probably have about 30-35 suits altogether. But also some of the work with them have been jackets, trousers, etc.
 

belinmad

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Please do. There are very little sartorial postings on this sartorial website lately and I can find crazy COVID and Occupy America discussions anywhere. Please don't post vintage jumpers with golfers, sheep, stags, or turtles. We have enough of that too.

Ok here's some that I had already on the cloud. I'll look more up later. The two from Russell are the first 2 suits he cut for me.
For Dan, I only have 1 up date, but you can see other work - a couple of jackets, a dressing robe, and the overcoat

Dan Macangus













Graham Browne






[
 

Kingstonian

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The suits seem pretty good. The other items are one offs, so it is difficult to compare them with anything else.

Russell is the tailor I remember in the Bow Lane shop but Dan( looking on his site) does not look like the other chap who used to work there.
 

belinmad

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Russell is the tailor I remember in the Bow Lane shop but Dan( looking on his site) does not look like the other chap who used to work there.

Fair. I'll try to find more pics of Dan's suits.

here's one where we wanted to go crazy with big lapels, recreating a bit of that 70's Nutter style



Russell is the tailor I remember in the Bow Lane shop but Dan( looking on his site) does not look like the other chap who used to work there.

You mean this chap?
 

Kingstonian

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I looked at the small photo on the Macangus website. It showed someone with spectacles and a neat haircut. When Crompton was featuring Graham Browne - a long time ago admittedly - your man did not have spectacles, or a neat haircut. Same build though.
 
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