Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

Buitenlander

Well-Known Member
Messages
76
549B101E-5113-4944-8D38-A687553870EC.jpeg
004DB026-4C0D-4F70-9776-899B9E837F1D.jpeg
A couple things for summer. Same tailor, made at the same time. I like the fit of the suit better but the blazer is fine. Just not as good. Can’t tell why, length? Balance? He said my pants are too short and to try this length for the summer.
 

Journeyman

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Messages
3,233
The lighting could be better as we can't see all the details clearly, but the blazer definitely looks shorter. Did you ask for it to be cut shorter?

I do prefer the length of the suit jacket, as it seems to have better balance.

From what I can see, trouser length looks fine.
 

Buitenlander

Well-Known Member
Messages
76
The lighting could be better as we can't see all the details clearly, but the blazer definitely looks shorter. Did you ask for it to be cut shorter?

I do prefer the length of the suit jacket, as it seems to have better balance.

From what I can see, trouser length looks fine.
Silhouette looks good to me. Another Italian or have you risked the Dutch tailors yet?
I was being sarcastic about the trouser length, doesn’t come off on the the internet very well. Tailor said my pants were too short and my jacket too tight. He mentioned military about the fit of my jacket. I did not ask for the blazer to be shorter. We took a long time getting the suit jacket fit down. I am very happy with the fit of it. I was surprised they were different.
I will try to take some better photos. That was in a last minute hotel room as the delivery was late a couple days.
Italian tailor. I have had a few things made in Holland but have had the same problems. Everything is always too small. No matter how much I ask for a more “classic” fit. Tight in the chest, shoulders, thighs. Everywhere, really.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,543
Everything is always too small. No matter how much I ask for a more “classic” fit. Tight in the chest, shoulders, thighs. Everywhere, really.
And definitely too short! They're into that tight, constricted and constrained look. It is possible to rage against it, but most of the tailors who have knowledge of other cuts are retired or disinterested as no one here wants anything other than the off duty footballer look.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,125
And definitely too short! They're into that tight, constricted and constrained look. It is possible to rage against it, but most of the tailors who have knowledge of other cuts are retired or disinterested as no one here wants anything other than the off duty footballer look.
I see so many coats that are tight around the arms these days. People wear them like sweaters. It is a horrible look.

examples coats tight around the arms:



and then there are the tight trousers.

Menswear is so effeminate these days.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,125
I visited my shirtmaker while interstate and ordered 3 shirts; one in pink, one in a luxurious white and the other in a luxurious light blue.

20190919_115922.jpg
20190919_112915.jpg

20190919_110615.jpg


Charles tells me the cotton for the white and blue are the absolute best Swiss cotton in the world, and indeed they are much finer than sictess fabrics which are already remarkable.

T@Asser fabrics don't compare in my experience.

Btw...Trump has Alex Kabbaz make his shirts. He buys heaps from him. Charles tells me this.
 
Last edited:

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,125
One of the masterpieces Charles made for me last year. Took an entire day (a very long day) for him to make this. He made me one in light blue and one in white from acorn 3 ply fabric (Took almost half a week of full days to make both). Once in a lifetime bespoke creation only very few ever experience.

The

20190831_001700.jpg
20190831_001610.jpg
 

yeahokaywhatever

Active Member
Messages
43
T@Asser fabrics don't compare in my experience.

They don’t carry Alumo in their bespoke fabrics catalogue? Or does TA have a specific house shirting fabric that they make and mill? I asked if they had the Alumo a while back and they said they did.
 
Last edited:

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,125
They don’t carry Alumo in their bespoke fabrics catalogue? Or does TA have a specific house shirting fabric that they make and mill? I asked if they had the Alumo a while back and they said they did.
Ah o.k...maybe their higher end fabrics use this, but their regular business shirt ranges don't. Or maybe Alumo is available for bespoke.

fxh specially designed summer shirts for the epitome of smart casual elegance. While Charles will never do anything as extensive as that again, he is going to make me three 4 pocket shirts in 2 ply Alumo with epaulets and cut short to wear untucked in the colours of navy blue, white and another colour l need to think about soon. The navy will look great with white mother of pearl buttons in a beautiful textured fabric with custom deep red cotton pants and navy bloo shoos.

I like this post by Sator:

"There are customers of Charles' I know who still swear by him after trying all of these, Borrelli MTM, John Cutler, Hemden, and even Charvet in Paris".
 
Last edited:

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,125
Let me just say that l wore the Alumo adula 120's/2 twill for the first time yesterday and felt like a King. It is the best fabric l have ever worn by far, and a notch or two above the usual Alumo fabrics. I've always wanted a perfect white shirt and now l have it. The blue shirt is the same quality. Total seduction.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,125
Got these things recently. Summer shirts designed to be worn untucked. Navy shirt and navy striped shirt. Will go good with red cotton trousers and ordinary bone trousers. Very versatile, and allows for great daring shoo combinations like navy/white spec loafer, navy blue suede chukka and other blue shoos. Will also go well with tan shoes when worn with white shirt and black horsebit fancy loafers. Trousers are bright red, not pink.




Shirt is dark blue stripe and white. Looks much sharper than in picture.

 
Top Bottom