Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

formby002

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258
please post your SS MTM program successes. You have mentioned it twice in 9 new posts so it must be so super and we must see them. Please include your sleek Goodyear Santonis as well.
Wasn't the SS MTM program done by Hugo Boss...?
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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Will do supporter moderator man👍🏻
you must be careful on this forum. some members might post a pic of your house or something if you post the wrong thing when forum discussions gets heated.

BTW, Gustin is DisGustin, Spier & MacKay is China-made Canadia MTM shirts and I only buy lock pick sets on Mass Drop.
 

Sprezzatura

Active Member
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30
you must be careful on this forum. some members might post a pic of your house or something if you post the wrong thing when forum discussions gets heated.

BTW, Gustin is DisGustin, Spier & MacKay is China-made Canadia MTM shirts and I only buy lock pick sets on Mass Drop.
Mass drop sounds like taking a massive shit.

I’ll take a picture in one of my ss success numbers in front of my house, so that such issue is cleared out of the way from day 1.

Any other tips or tricks?
 
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Thruth

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Mass drop sounds like taking a massive shit.

I’ll take a picture in one of my ss success numvers in front of my house, so that such issue is cleared out of the way from day 1.

Any other tips an tricks?
Yes Mass Drop does sounds like taking a massive shit but why that never occurred to me before is puzzling.

The what-not-to-do's are pretty much the same as before, go easy on shitting on specific members. Oops, my bad, you've never been here before so you don't know.

Still waiting on your SS MTM & Santoni's. Will we be waiting a long time for those? Thanks for joining BTW. Looking for more quality posts from you. Can't wait!
 

Sprezzatura

Active Member
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Yes Mass Drop does sounds like taking a massive shit but why that never occurred to me before is puzzling.

The what-not-to-do's are pretty much the same as before, go easy on shitting on specific members. Oops, my bad, you've never been here before so you don't know.

Still waiting on your SS MTM & Santoni's. Will we be waiting a long time for those? Thanks for joining BTW. Looking for more quality posts from you. Can't wait!
I just posted a recent outfit in the waywn thread. Looking forward to your input. Here to improve and step up my menswear game.
 

Sprezzatura

Active Member
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30
Its was made by my tailor, drop me a dm if you want more info. But i have a feeling some of the popular brands around here with the sprezzy types might be more to your liking : Spier and McKay, Gustin, Mass Drop.
is your tailor by any chance sartoria massura? As sported by one of the insta big dogs and bespok experts will from the don’s club? Your look is very very similar. Kudos to you sir.

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Sprezzatura

Active Member
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germans seem to be totally taking over the bespok game. italians down with to covid-19, bespoke dudes nowhere to be seen. england in even worse shape with brexit around the corner. drake hipsters now carrying the savile row flag. the once so dominant french menswear movement led by dirnelli also totally over the hill. the germans are winning this war.

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fxh

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Spring and Summer. Its not Antarctica you know.
I was genuinely curious as to context in UK - not having a go ( Although I reserve my constitutional right in future etc) - work - city - local strolling -coffee with Ms - meeting mates ?? when would it be overdressed or under dressed - assuming you are a relatively normal person and not a cosplay gent
 

formby002

Well-Known Member
Messages
258
I was genuinely curious as to context in UK - not having a go ( Although I reserve my constitutional right in future etc) - work - city - local strolling -coffee with Ms - meeting mates ?? when would it be overdressed or under dressed - assuming you are a relatively normal person and not a cosplay gent
All of those things, except the relatively normal person.
 

fxh

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Thank you sir - for your detailed explanation of social mores in UK.

Have a nice day
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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2,483
Questions

1). Is a Lesser & Sons fabric much better than a Scabal? Is it worth the premium in your opinion, or not much difference.

2). Would a peak lapel navy sportscoat be a good idea?
 
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Walter

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Messages
106
Questions

1). Is a Lesser & Sons fabric much better than a Scabal? Is it worth the premium in your opinion, or not much difference.

2). Would a peak lapel navy sportscoat be a good idea?
Are you talking old (pre-harrisons) lesser? Or lesser from the current books? Which book? What scabal are you comparing it against?
 

Walter

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106
germans seem to be totally taking over the bespok game. italians down with to covid-19, bespoke dudes nowhere to be seen. england in even worse shape with brexit around the corner. drake hipsters now carrying the savile row flag. the once so dominant french menswear movement led by dirnelli also totally over the hill. the germans are winning this war.

View attachment 34306
whahahaha, the german experts. What a dipshits they are.
 

The Shooman

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Are you talking old (pre-harrisons) lesser? Or lesser from the current books? Which book? What scabal are you comparing it against?
can one still get the old school fabrics Lesser used to supply, or is it all made differently now? I want a navy 9 - 10 oz fabric in wool.
 

belinmad

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Messages
71
can one still get the old school fabrics Lesser used to supply, or is it all made differently now? I want a navy 9 - 10 oz fabric in wool.
This is an excellent point - pre Harrisons Lessers is definitely much, much better than both Scabal as well as current Lessers.
Having said that, I prefer the heavier Lessers tbh.

In London you can sometimes find old Lessers cut at Harrison's vault on Sackville St, when they are returned by tailors. Some tailors still sit on old stashes. Similarly, some cloth distributors have end of rolls that you can take advantage of. Who are you having your suit made with? Ask them if they can get it for you.
 

Walter

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Messages
106
If I recall correctly, the Lumbs Golden Bale bunch has some blue options in 11 oz.
the old lesser, as i see it, excelled in the 8/9oz tropical and 9.5oz semi-tropical on the one hand and the heavier books, 13oz and especially the 16oz book. With golden bale being on a league of its own. The lesser 11oz never impressed me tbh.

old lesser afaik can indeed only be had through jobbers and old tailor’s stock.
 

doghouse

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This is an excellent point - pre Harrisons Lessers is definitely much, much better than both Scabal as well as current Lessers.
You sound like you have been talking to that moron Frank Shattuck who I'm pretty sure uses Lesser to beat off.

The answer as always is "it depends " The Shooman The Shooman . I have stuff made of both, the Scabal is far superior in hot and humid, the Lesser holds shape better for winter weight cloth but is face melting hot
 

belinmad

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You sound like you have been talking to that moron Frank Shattuck who I'm pretty sure uses Lesser to beat off.

The answer as always is "it depends " The Shooman The Shooman . I have stuff made of both, the Scabal is far superior in hot and humid, the Lesser holds shape better for winter weight cloth but is face melting hot
I agree with about 80% of what you've said :)
Indeed Frank was the first one that pointed me towards old Lesser, and then I had the chance to experience it directly. I have suits (both by Frank and others) on both pre and post Harrisons, and they are both great, but you can appreciate the better quality of the pre H one. Every tailor I've talked to on the subject gets nostalgic about the old cloth.

Also agree on hot and humid v winter. For London weather, there's just no comparison. The only suit I have cut from 8/9 oz Lesser is great, but not the coolest one to wear for meetings in Miami. Then again, I would probably go for Fresco/Finmeresco etc for hot and humid weather anyway.
 

Walter

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Messages
106
I agree with about 80% of what you've said :)
Indeed Frank was the first one that pointed me towards old Lesser, and then I had the chance to experience it directly. I have suits (both by Frank and others) on both pre and post Harrisons, and they are both great, but you can appreciate the better quality of the pre H one. Every tailor I've talked to on the subject gets nostalgic about the old cloth.

Also agree on hot and humid v winter. For London weather, there's just no comparison. The only suit I have cut from 8/9 oz Lesser is great, but not the coolest one to wear for meetings in Miami. Then again, I would probably go for Fresco/Finmeresco etc for hot and humid weather anyway.
Look at [old] minnis rangoon as another alternative. I’m also quite happy with lovat’s bard. Heard good things about holland and sherry’s eco traveller, if price is not of interest.
 

doghouse

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Every tailor I've talked to on the subject gets nostalgic about the old cloth.
Some do indeed. This is the phenomenon that exists in basically every trade though in one form or another. Whatever the professional version of "old wives tail" is. Group think, verities, etc... Plenty of tailors understand the benefit of modern cloth too though.

I can tell you in terms of performance, modern cloth smokes old shit. It's not even a comparison. That's not to say there isn't a reason for using old cloth though. It has a distinct look and feel, and if that's what you want, then that's what you want and it can't be replaced. Also, maybe a pattern or weave that doesn't exist anymore. But in terms of sewability, wrinkle resistance/portability, breathability, how it sets up, quality modern cloth is light years ahead.
 

Walter

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Messages
106
can one still get the old school fabrics Lesser used to supply, or is it all made differently now? I want a navy 9 - 10 oz fabric in wool.
May i ask why you are considering getting a blazer made in lesser or scabal 9oz cloth. I know i’m new here, but reading up on some of your posts you didnt strike me as a man dreaming about a navy blazer in summer suiting fabric. if that is really what you need look at mockleno from huddersfield fine worsted, h&s, smiths or some other usual suspects?

Actually, i was expecting you would be getting a cashmere blazer for the winter since you seem to always be cold, layering up etc? Why not get a nice beefy luxurious lp cashmere blazer?
 

doghouse

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Actually, i was expecting you would be getting a cashmere blazer for the winter since you seem to always be cold, layering up etc? Why not get a nice beefy luxurious lp cashmere blazer?
I have one cashmere blend suit and it's literally unwearable it's so hot. Old Lessers too ironically enough
 

Walter

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106
Many cutters actually, plus not being obtuse.
Really surprises me. My experience is quite the opposite. It might be the tailors. It might be their audience. Maybe they think american clients want progress and in innovation and are not susceptible for vintage tissue dreams. Or they believe european clients appreciate tradation and conservatism. Who knows.
 

doghouse

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Really surprises me. My experience is quite the opposite. It might be the tailors. It might be their audience. Maybe they think american clients want progress and in innovation and are not susceptible for vintage tissue dreams. Or they believe european clients appreciate tradation and conservatism. Who knows.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
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