Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

Thruth said:
UNACCEPTABLE. BANNED
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thanks for stepping in mods

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formby said:
Very nice, with Peak Lapels too. I approve.

The slanted pockets and ticket pocket are a Mod touch, especially so in Mohair. Peak lapels not so Mod. I like slanted pockets meself, they add a sporty feel to a jacket.

The blue looks quite vivid, it'll look nice in the bright summer months.

I noticed that its a 2-button. Any reason why you didn't go for a 1-button?

What shirts you planning on wearing with that? May I suggest you keep it very simple, Mohair is a very crisp, sharp fabric that doesn't need much assistance. The suits the star here....
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I have a completely arbitrary rule that one button is reserved for evening only apparel. I do appreciate the old Huntsman aesthetic though. As far as the general feel, it's a total 70's vibe. The lining, the mohair, etc.. I was actually bouncing ideas back and forth with Alex over whether to go shawl or peak on the waistcoat lapel. Stayed with peak since it is a little more outré these days and makes for an eye catcher.

I'm all slant pockets except dinner jackets and cocktail jackets. I think I have maybe one suit with out them. I like emphasis they put on the shaping.

Blue is definitely vivid, I am very stoked. And the mohair will help with the summer humidity here, which was a big reason I got it. Most stuff just wilts under this oppressive heat and moisture. The sleeves on this thing look phenomenal with the mohair holding them up. Shirt wise I feel like this is a white, light blue or sky blue microstripe type deal. Probably some pink poplin thrown in too.
 
doghouse said:
And the mohair will help with the summer humidity here, which was a big reason I got it. Most stuff just wilts under this oppressive heat and moisture. The sleeves on this thing look phenomenal with the mohair holding them up
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You lost me with this. What do you mean by 'holding them up'?
 
Rambo said:
You lost me with this. What do you mean by 'holding them up'?
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There is a natural spring to mohair as it's a stiffer more resilient fiber. When things like sleeve are sewn up, they pop into a very nice tubular shape, instead of flopping down. The more you go into the luxury fibers like cashmere, the softer the fiber and the more the cloth hangs limp.
 
doghouse said:
I have a completely arbitrary rule that one button is reserved for evening only apparel. I do appreciate the old Huntsman aesthetic though. As far as the general feel, it's a total 70's vibe. The lining, the mohair, etc.. I was actually bouncing ideas back and forth with Alex over whether to go shawl or peak on the waistcoat lapel. Stayed with peak since it is a little more outré these days and makes for an eye catcher.

I'm all slant pockets except dinner jackets and cocktail jackets. I think I have maybe one suit with out them. I like emphasis they put on the shaping.

Blue is definitely vivid, I am very stoked. And the mohair will help with the summer humidity here, which was a big reason I got it. Most stuff just wilts under this oppressive heat and moisture. The sleeves on this thing look phenomenal with the mohair holding them up. Shirt wise I feel like this is a white, light blue or sky blue microstripe type deal. Probably some pink poplin thrown in too.
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Mohair is a beautiful fabric, even though is doesn't have a luxurious hand, its quite dry.

Its always been a dressy fabric for me, formal. I always disagreed with FNB's approach of putting floral/abstract print shirts under it to dress it down. I have no issue with a colourful lining however.

Personally, I'd have got a darker blue and worn it with a white shirt, batiste in summer (Acorn's Zephyr) and a nice toned tie. maybe a solid in an twill weave. Simple Stirling silver cuff-links for winter / autumn, button cuffs for spring / summer. Shoes would be Chelsea boots in black calf, may do Suede in summer. If hot, then some kind of slip-on.

But everything pared-down.
 
formby said:
Mohair is a beautiful fabric, even though is doesn't have a luxurious hand, its quite dry.

Its always been a dressy fabric for me, formal. I always disagreed with FNB's approach of putting floral/abstract print shirts under it to dress it down. I have no issue with a colourful lining however.

Personally, I'd have got a darker blue and worn it with a white shirt, batiste in summer (Acorn's Zephyr) and a nice toned tie. maybe a solid in an twill weave. Simple Stirling silver cuff-links for winter / autumn, button cuffs for spring / summer. Shoes would be Chelsea boots in black calf, may do Suede in summer. If hot, then some kind of slip-on.

But everything pared-down.
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I specifically wanted this color in the wardrobe. I am just so stock full of other blues it wouldn't make sense for anything darker. My favorite suit is a french blue, it gets more wear than anything else I have, might actually get worn out and I'll have to get a mohair to replace it!

I just got rid of my black chukkas for a pair of Chelseas, funny you should mention that. Still love my suede chukkas though.

I'd have trouble classifying mohair on the traditional casual/formal spectrum. It can live in the dressier part of the day, and be pretty versatile in the evening. I agree on the crazy shirt bit though, its a bit dissonant to me. You should tell him to come over here and debate the merits.
 
doghouse said:
I specifically wanted this color in the wardrobe. I am just so stock full of other blues it wouldn't make sense for anything darker. My favorite suit is a french blue, it gets more wear than anything else I have, might actually get worn out and I'll have to get a mohair to replace it!

I just got rid of my black chukkas for a pair of Chelseas, funny you should mention that. Still love my suede chukkas though.

I'd have trouble classifying mohair on the traditional casual/formal spectrum. It can live in the dressier part of the day, and be pretty versatile in the evening. I agree on the crazy shirt bit though, its a bit dissonant to me. You should tell him to come over here and debate the merits.
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When the suit is finished and pressed you'll see what I mean. Its a very crisp, sharp silhouette, the cloth having a bit of sheen adds to this dressy-ness IMO.

I think FNB was channelling that late 60s Chelsea Set / Kings Road vibe. Blades , Christopher Gibbs et al. Whereas, I'd channel Michael Caine in Get Carter sans double-barrel of course ;)

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formby said:
When the suit is finished and pressed you'll see what I mean. Its a very crisp, sharp silhouette, the cloth having a bit of sheen adds to this dressy-ness IMO.

I think FNB was channelling that late 60s Chelsea Set / Kings Road vibe. Blades , Christopher Gibbs et al. Whereas, I'd channel Michael Caine in Get Carter sans double-barrel of course ;)
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The double barrel is mandatory formby.

I agree on the dressiness, but it's not really a linear scale as the common iGentry wisdom is to have us believe. There is sober dress and fun dress. Like a silk dinner jacket is way less formal on the scale than a traditional worsted charcoal, but you wouldn't wear one to a garden party in the afternoon. I like to think of it as more an x-y axis scatter chart. Suit Scientist™ approved.
 
doghouse said:
Most of the new mohairs have a lot less mohair in them.
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I have several Tonik Mohairs that I had made up in the early 90s when the original stuff was still being woven. That was 60 wool / 40 Mohair even though there were different ratios available.. 70 / 30 is probably the sweet spot now.

A lot of modern RTW Mohair suits are made out of Mohair cloth that has Triviera(sp) mixed in. Its way to shiny.
 
formby said:
A lot of modern RTW Mohair suits are made out of Mohair cloth that has Triviera(sp) mixed in. Its way to shiny.
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I agree. That stuff is playing on people's idea of what mohair is. The 70/30 seems just about right to give an nice glimmer. Durable too.
 
I wouldn't mind a mohair/wool suit in a nice dark navy Dormeuil fabric. Office and evening appropriate. Would be a nice addition to my wardrobe. My worsted midnight blue peak lapel suit is very evening appropriate, but a little less office appropriate, which means I only tend to wear it on Thursday's or Friday's.
 
closest thing to orginal tonik on the market today is made by John Foster/William Halstead : it is 3ply, 60/40 and 13 oz. used to be able to buy it off Pepper Lee web site but it appears to be down at the moment.

I luv mohair. tonik for evening and special occasion suits and kid mohair blends for summer suits. i probably have more mohair suits than most people have suits.

I have two suits (a dark navy and a shot blue/navy) and one blazer in vintage tonik.
I have 5 or so unfunded pieces of tonik lying around.
Also have two suits in Dormy Super Brio which was about 70/30 kid which was their summer cloth.
H lesser also made a mohair that was even better than Dormy IMO. I have one suit in vintage lesslon, also a 3ply, 60/40, 13 oz. And two suits in vintage lessers lumbs super 100 and Kid mohair, which was lesser's summer offering. Have a few lengths of that lying around too.

Was thinking about doing for my next summer suit a bright blue piece of vintage zegna mohair also 70/30.

Some of my mohair (some are already made into suits) :

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FriendCustomer said:
Was thinking about doing for my next summer suit a bright blue piece of vintage zegna mohair also 70/30.
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This needs to happen.


Simon has been pitching me mohair for the better part of a decade, I'm quite into it at the moment. Knows I'm a big Aston Martin guy and always works in Andy Palmer wears nothing but mohair.
 
FriendCustomer said:
closest thing to orginal tonik on the market today is made by John Foster/William Halstead : it is 3ply, 60/40 and 13 oz. used to be able to buy it off Pepper Lee web site but it appears to be down at the moment.

I luv mohair. tonik for evening and special occasion suits and kid mohair blends for summer suits. i probably have more mohair suits than most people have suits.

I have two suits (a dark navy and a shot blue/navy) and one blazer in vintage tonik.
I have 5 or so unfunded pieces of tonik lying around.
Also have two suits in Dormy Super Brio which was about 70/30 kid which was their summer cloth.
H lesser also made a mohair that was even better than Dormy IMO. I have one suit in vintage lesslon, also a 3ply, 60/40, 13 oz. And two suits in vintage lessers lumbs super 100 and Kid mohair, which was lesser's summer offering. Have a few lengths of that lying around too.

Was thinking about doing for my next summer suit a bright blue piece of vintage zegna mohair also 70/30.

Some of my mohair (some are already made into suits) :

View attachment 14308 View attachment 14309 View attachment 14310 View attachment 14313 View attachment 14314 View attachment 14315 View attachment 14318 View attachment 14319 View attachment 14320 View attachment 14321 View attachment 14322

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View attachment 14317
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Verri nice tissues!

If I really had a need for summer suits I would be doing mohair. I have one in a blue that is lighter and a bit brighter than a not so navy colour. Only shows a bit of sheen in sunlight. Verri nice
 
FriendCustomer said:
this is the one i'm 90% sure i'm doing next, its really sexy imo

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sorry will make don raffaele make this one up for me
you will be swimming with da feeshes in the golfo di napoli!!!

talking about lining, this is something i never really think about
i once got a free length of dark green lining and asked my tailor to put it into a dark grey suit. he was literally SHOCKED and asked three times if i want something that outrageous in my suit... i insisted, he put it in... but did not put in his little logo... olololl
 
FriendCustomer said:
closest thing to orginal tonik on the market today is made by John Foster/William Halstead : it is 3ply, 60/40 and 13 oz. used to be able to buy it off Pepper Lee web site but it appears to be down at the moment.

I luv mohair. tonik for evening and special occasion suits and kid mohair blends for summer suits. i probably have more mohair suits than most people have suits.

I have two suits (a dark navy and a shot blue/navy) and one blazer in vintage tonik.
I have 5 or so unfunded pieces of tonik lying around.
Also have two suits in Dormy Super Brio which was about 70/30 kid which was their summer cloth.
H lesser also made a mohair that was even better than Dormy IMO. I have one suit in vintage lesslon, also a 3ply, 60/40, 13 oz. And two suits in vintage lessers lumbs super 100 and Kid mohair, which was lesser's summer offering. Have a few lengths of that lying around too.

Was thinking about doing for my next summer suit a bright blue piece of vintage zegna mohair also 70/30.

Some of my mohair (some are already made into suits) :

View attachment 14308 View attachment 14309 View attachment 14310 View attachment 14313 View attachment 14314 View attachment 14315 View attachment 14318 View attachment 14319 View attachment 14320 View attachment 14321 View attachment 14322

View attachment 14316

View attachment 14317
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John Fosters used to weave Tonik for Dormeuil. Their original mill was The Black Dyke Mills in Queensbury near Bradford. Black Dyke is also famous for their Brass Brand. This mill no longer weaves, all their Mohair cloth is woven at Halstead's which is part of the same group.

Those 3-Ply Mohairs that Pepper Lee sell will be the nearest you can get these day to the original Tonik. Bullet proof.
 
formby said:
John Fosters used to weave Tonik for Dormeuil. Their original mill was The Black Dyke Mills in Queensbury near Bradford. Black Dyke is also famous for their Brass Brand. This mill no longer weaves, all their Mohair cloth is woven at Halstead's which is part of the same group.

Those 3-Ply Mohairs that Pepper Lee sell will be the nearest you can get these day to the original Tonik. Bullet proof.
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One of these days when I'm in your neck of the woods I want to check out some of these mills.
 
LKP said:
sorry will make don raffaele make this one up for me
you will be swimming with da feeshes in the golfo di napoli!!!

talking about lining, this is something i never really think about
i once got a free length of dark green lining and asked my tailor to put it into a dark grey suit. he was literally SHOCKED and asked three times if i want something that outrageous in my suit... i insisted, he put it in... but did not put in his little logo... olololl
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I really like this passive aggressive touch. I believe his point was made!

I also have never discussed linings, not beyond how much should be there anyway.
 
doghouse said:
One of these days when I'm in your neck of the woods I want to check out some of these mills.
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The woollen mills were predominantly in West Yorkshire, around Bradford, Huddersfield, Halifax and Leeds.
The cotton mills were predominantly in Lancashire, around Manchester. Bolton, Blackburn.
Silk mills were around Macclesfield, Cheshire.

There used to be guided tours around Scabal's Mill (Bower Roebuck).

Many of the old Mill buildings are listed, and have been converted into flats (apartments) and little businesses. One of the most famous is Salts Mill in Saltaire.

Here: Saltaire - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Another was Lister Mill just outside Bradford.

Here: Lister Mills - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The old mill towns can be a little grotty to be honest. I've been around dozens of mills, working and otherwise over the years. Many mills now, weaving sheds as they are sometimes known, are modern portal-framed buildings that look just like any other factory and have no architectural interest. The old mills, can be quite attractive, especially those set in valleys. Of course the boilers are no longer running, belching out black sulphurous smoke. LOL.

Cottonopolis (Manchester)

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Scherensammler said:
Nope, we do all bespoke in-house by ourselves, with individual, hand drafted patterns and all.
We have a lady in the workshop making trousers and waistcoats and my boss and I work on the coats.
No need for #theyorkshiretailor ...
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Then why the connection between beaman and your massah?? Why all the thanks & ok usa?
 
AFAIK, my boss just liked one of the images Beaman posted. It seams he doesn't get as many likes as LKP LKP or ConchitaWurst ConchitaWurst (and has some extra time on his hands as well), so he can personally thank everyone who likes his stuff.
 
Scherensammler said:
AFAIK, my boss just liked one of the images Beaman posted. It seams he doesn't get as many likes as LKP LKP or ConchitaWurst ConchitaWurst (and has some extra time on his hands as well), so he can personally thank everyone who likes his stuff.
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Please, go to visit them, you are not obliged to order something but they are good people and it's very interesting to talk to them.
 
B&Tailor is visiting London next week. Thinking about either a medium grey 3 season or medium grey flannel suit. It's every 6 weeks and has 2-3 fittings. So, 18-24 weeks from start to delivery. So would have the suit between end Sep/end Oct.
 
Monkeyface said:
B&Tailor is visiting London next week. Thinking about either a medium grey 3 season or medium grey flannel suit. It's every 6 weeks and has 2-3 fittings. So, 18-24 weeks from start to delivery. So would have the suit between end Sep/end Oct.
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Please, go to visit them, you are not obliged to order something but they are good people and it's very interesting to talk to them.
 
LKP said:
Please, go to visit them, you are not obliged to order something but they are good people and it's very interesting to talk to them.
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Lol. I'm having my doubts, as it's not the actual cutter that visits, but another tailor from Sweden who measures for them. About a year and a half ago we were looking to fly the guys from Korea over to London, and suits were priced at £1200. Now they're £2000, which I think makes them less competitive. Probably could fly to Naples/hotel/suit for £2k all in, right?
 
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