Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

First test of the dress on Tuesday
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FriendCustomer said:
Great cloth. Where did you get it?

I have two Tonik suits a blue and a navy. Love both dearly.
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I was looking through fabrics at his shop and it was buried near the bottom of a pile. I have been thinking about it ever since. I have a couple 15% mohair I think are too shiny. Not Turkish wedding shiny but more like Footballer shiny. I have a 30% mohair that I love. Is dry without sheen. This is well beyond that. I think it said 60% mohair.
 
Buitenlander said:
I was looking through fabrics at his shop and it was buried near the bottom of a pile. I have been thinking about it ever since. I have a couple 15% mohair I think are too shiny. Not Turkish wedding shiny but more like Footballer shiny. I have a 30% mohair that I love. Is dry without sheen. This is well beyond that. I think it said 60% mohair.
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Think that’s about right. The old Tonik was 55% and dry cloth. It’s very good cloth and I don’t find it too shiny at all, although it does look quite different than regular wool suiting. It’s really great for evening events, weddings, etc... But could be worn to office depending on your environment.
 
FriendCustomer said:
Think that’s about right. The old Tonik was 55% and dry cloth. It’s very good cloth and I don’t find it too shiny at all, although it does look quite different than regular wool suiting. It’s really great for evening events, weddings, etc... But could be worn to office depending on your environment.
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I think Tonik is fine in the daytime. Especially in the summer.
This is not original Tonik. 2K I’m guessing. Are yours original tonic? How have they held up? Do you do any extra care with them? I have heard a lot of fake news about high count mohair but no one with actual experience. Love to see pics of yours. Whole suit or pieces.
 
Buitenlander said:
I think Tonik is fine in the daytime. Especially in the summer.
This is not original Tonik. 2K I’m guessing. Are yours original tonic? How have they held up? Do you do any extra care with them? I have heard a lot of fake news about high count mohair but no one with actual experience. Love to see pics of yours. Whole suit or pieces.
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I am no fabric giant like FriendCustomer FriendCustomer
However i think that tonik 2000 says so on the selvedge...

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Buitenlander said:
I think Tonik is fine in the daytime. Especially in the summer.
This is not original Tonik. 2K I’m guessing. Are yours original tonic? How have they held up? Do you do any extra care with them? I have heard a lot of fake news about high count mohair but no one with actual experience. Love to see pics of yours. Whole suit or pieces.
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CesareRomiti CesareRomiti is correct. Your Tonik definitely appears to be original, as in from the 90s at the latest. Tonik 2000 is written on the selvage. There remained a regular Tonik up until a few years ago but that was not the classic 55/45 formula. It was some 90 percent mohair bullshit.

It is extremely sturdy cloth nothing to worry about. No special care. Maybe I have to brush the usual dust that collects on blue suits a bit more. Agree it can easily be worn during the day and I do. The look is very sharp. I have two suits made and I actually have a blazer I inherited afrom the very early 80s. All have held up perfectly. Probably have 3 or 4 unused Tonik lengths that I will eventually get made, at least in my dreams.

Photos to follow.
 
FriendCustomer said:
CesareRomiti CesareRomiti is correct. Your Tonik definitely appears to be original, as in from the 90s at the latest. Tonik 2000 is written on the selvage. There remained a regular Tonik up until a few years ago but that was not the classic 55/45 formula. It was some 90 percent mohair bullshit.

It is extremely sturdy cloth nothing to worry about. No special care. Maybe I have to brush the usual dust that collects on blue suits a bit more. Agree it can easily be worn during the day and I do. The look is very sharp. I have two suits made and I actually have a blazer I inherited afrom the very early 80s. All have held up perfectly. Probably have 3 or 4 unused Tonik lengths that I will eventually get made, at least in my dreams.

Photos to follow.
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Will be happy to do dirtier-than-usual stuff for some tonik <3
 
CesareRomiti said:
I am no fabric giant like FriendCustomer FriendCustomer
However i think that tonik 2000 says so on the selvedge...

View attachment 30145
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FriendCustomer said:
CesareRomiti CesareRomiti is correct. Your Tonik definitely appears to be original, as in from the 90s at the latest. Tonik 2000 is written on the selvage. There remained a regular Tonik up until a few years ago but that was not the classic 55/45 formula. It was some 90 percent mohair bullshit.

It is extremely sturdy cloth nothing to worry about. No special care. Maybe I have to brush the usual dust that collects on blue suits a bit more. Agree it can easily be worn during the day and I do. The look is very sharp. I have two suits made and I actually have a blazer I inherited afrom the very early 80s. All have held up perfectly. Probably have 3 or 4 unused Tonik lengths that I will eventually get made, at least in my dreams.

Photos to follow.
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Looks like it’s my lucky day, if I can get him to make the jacket long enough. I figured it was a new run of fabric. Didn’t think he would have it laying around that long. It did not even stink when I pulled it out.
 
CesareRomiti said:
Will be happy to do dirtier-than-usual stuff for some tonik <3
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next time on naples i bring for you the Tonik if you are interested in the remaining colors: i have 1) a light blue that is shot with a bit of white streaks, to make it look like a silk, 2) a grey silver suit length, 3) a darker grey with red strip, 4) and amazing bright blue, blazer lenghth, 5) and a AF blue/grey, with a blue windowpane.

photos to follow
 
FriendCustomer said:
CesareRomiti CesareRomiti is correct. Your Tonik definitely appears to be original, as in from the 90s at the latest. Tonik 2000 is written on the selvage. There remained a regular Tonik up until a few years ago but that was not the classic 55/45 formula. It was some 90 percent mohair bullshit.

It is extremely sturdy cloth nothing to worry about. No special care. Maybe I have to brush the usual dust that collects on blue suits a bit more. Agree it can easily be worn during the day and I do. The look is very sharp. I have two suits made and I actually have a blazer I inherited afrom the very early 80s. All have held up perfectly. Probably have 3 or 4 unused Tonik lengths that I will eventually get made, at least in my dreams.

Photos to follow.
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The blue tonik suit :

IMG_6305.jpg



the navy tonik suit :

IMG_8569.jpg
navy tonik.png


the tonik blazer (inherited, bespoken in early 80s) :

IMG_6821.jpg
IMG_6818.jpg
 
FriendCustomer said:
next time on naples i bring for you the Tonik if you are interested in the remaining colors: i have 1) a light blue that is shot with a bit of white streaks, to make it look like a silk, 2) a grey silver suit length, 3) a darker grey with red strip, 4) and amazing bright blue, blazer lenghth, 5) and a AF blue/grey, with a blue windowpane.

photos to follow
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The unfunded Toniks (numbers correspond with above descriptions) :

1)
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2)
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3) photo missing of dark grey with red pin stripe. Very 80s, very top

4)
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5)
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B37872AF-FCEA-4FC1-9D4B-BE9200DA6045.jpeg


6) bonus Tonik, forgot about this one
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Buitenlander said:
That blue one and the blazer are top of the pops. Of course, the navy is great but those two are stand out.
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thanks. the blue is English, the blazer is French and the Navy is Naples. The Navy is top too but believe the inisde jacket pockets are stuffed with a full wallet and key ring making the chest sag. The navy was supposed to be in the spirit of of the famous Get Carter suit (which id thought he'd do well since the orginal has a lot of chest drape, the long dart and the tailor loves slanted pockets for some reason), unfortunately the tailor forget to do the waist coat. By the time I picked up the suit the remaining cloth was nowhere to be found. He is one of those magic tailors that probably used the rest of the tonik to make up a suit for a dwarf.
 
Buitenlander said:
FriendCustomer FriendCustomer . Do you know this fabric? Is this wearable as a suit? It feels hard as nails. He said he could have it done for fall. This is a different tailor than the Tonik one. View attachment 30174
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Do it.

Harrisons Thistle is another famous cloth for those that seek out the vintage goods. Some thistle I have seen looks like standard business suiting, other older varieties, like the above are more of country suiting. It was an ideal compromise when not wanting something quite as rustic as a tweed suit but also not wanting a suit for the city. These types of high quality cloth choices are just unfortunately no longer available. I have no doubt that the drape and resistance of this cloth would be outstanding. I’d get a suit out of it without thinking twice if i stumbled upon it at a tailors. The question is not whether it is outstanding cloth (it most certainly is, which is more than enough reason for me) but perhaps for you the question might be whether it can fit into your lifestyle (and style). It surely could work as a stand-alone jacket and would be superior to the wimpy 12 oz worsted tweeds currently on the market, but I definitely see it as a suit and probably would prefer a similarly patterened traditional tweed if I was to go the jacket only route.

Please keep posting your cloth finds. I’m loving it. It makes me want to go to other tailors and raid their untouched stocks.
 
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FriendCustomer said:
Do it.

Harrisons Thistle is another famous cloth for those that seek out the vintage goods. Some thistle I have seen looks like standard business suiting, other older varieties, like the above are more of country suiting. It was an ideal compromise when not wanting something quite as rustic as a tweed suit but also not wanting a suit for the city. These types of high quality cloth choices are just unfortunately no longer available. I have no doubt that the drape and resistance of this cloth would be outstanding. I’d get a suit out of it without thinking twice if i stumbled upon it at a tailors. The question is not whether it is outstanding cloth (it most certainly is, which is more than enough reason for me) but perhaps for you the question might be whether it can fit into your lifestyle (and style). It surely could work as a stand-alone jacket and would be superior to the wimpy 12 oz worsted tweeds currently on the market, but I definitely see it as a suit and probably would prefer a similarly patterened traditional tweed if I was to go the jacket only route.

Please keep posting your cloth finds. I’m loving it. It makes me want to go to other tailors and raid their untouched stocks.
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I was looking for a houndstooth flannel. He had a high count silk and the Harrison’s. The Thistle seemed more interesting than even the flannel I originally wanted. I would wear it the same as flannel. More as a casual suit than business. Knit ties, roll necks etc.
 
Buitenlander said:
I was looking for a houndstooth flannel. He had a high count silk and the Harrison’s. The Thistle seemed more interesting than even the flannel I originally wanted. I would wear it the same as flannel. More as a casual suit than business. Knit ties, roll necks etc.
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Perfect plan. Get the Thistle as a single breasted suit. Get a vintage Houndtooth flannel (most currently available from the books suck balls) as a double breasted. You will be running the game.
 
Crispaire pants. Some tweaks to make. Forcella piu morbida as our Eyegerman friend saw it immediately. Three times cheaper than Igents trousermakers, same quality.

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aristoi bcn said:
First SB full suit from Master Oreo. I think it looks damn good, but I feel the sleeves and trousers a little to long (1-2 cms max). Trousers are grown man's trousers. Not slim, not regular. Just how they should be for a man of my height and complexion. Forget the shoes, I put them so the length could be better assessed. This will be most formal suit (Midnight Fresco Mohair) so the next pieces will be more fun.

View attachment 28878 View attachment 28879 View attachment 28880 View attachment 28881 View attachment 28882

Bonus: Cactus.
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Same tailor (no cactus) :

Green drapers hopsack :
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Hardy’s Riviera :
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Die Work Wear special run silk/linen:
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aristoi bcn said:
Top top elite tissues. Big complimenti.

ps: Looking for 1.7-2 meters of that silk/linen, if anyone knows a source, let me know. Other colours appreciated. Any insight about the mill? I'm guessing Robert Noble but I'm not sure.
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thanks. no idea about the cloth. it is very nice. why not just get in touch with DWW?
 
FriendCustomer said:
Same tailor (no cactus) :

Green drapers hopsack :
View attachment 30186

Hardy’s Riviera :
View attachment 30187

Put This On special run silk/linen:
View attachment 30188
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Superior choice of fabrics. I particularly love the green hopsack. Less fan of the drape but very well executed.
aristoi bcn said:
Top top elite tissues. Big complimenti.

ps: Looking for 1.7-2 meters of that silk/linen, if anyone knows a source, let me know. Other colours appreciated. Any insight about the mill? I'm guessing Robert Noble but I'm not sure.
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Eurotex have a great selection of silk-linen blends at fair price. Also similar blends from Fox currently in sale (in poor colours though).

Edit: I made a mistake about Fox (wool-linen blends).
 
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aristoi bcn said:
Top top elite tissues. Big complimenti.

ps: Looking for 1.7-2 meters of that silk/linen, if anyone knows a source, let me know. Other colours appreciated. Any insight about the mill? I'm guessing Robert Noble but I'm not sure.
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Actually one of my little birdies has informed me the source of the DWW cloth is Bennett Silks. And it is very similar if not the same as one of the cloths in their stock supported collection :

https://www.bennett-silks.co.uk/sil...cs/matka-and-suitings/silk-suiting-8012/1018/

Robert Noble, ololol, where do you come up with that shit?
 
FriendCustomer said:
Actually one of my little birdies has informed me the source of the DWW cloth is Bennett Silks. And it is very similar if not the same as one of the cloths in their stock supported collection :

https://www.bennett-silks.co.uk/sil...cs/matka-and-suitings/silk-suiting-8012/1018/

Robert Noble, ololol, where do you come up with that shit?
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You deserve all my respects.

ps: Lurking in ebay I've found out some blends like the DWW cloth under the Robert Noble name.
 
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This is the Harrison’s Thistle tailor. After choosing fabric to pick up in the fall he said he could finish a summer jacket before I left.
 
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