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Fwiffo said:
If I wear a khaki blazer with a brown belt and brown shoes at 4pm and the sun sets by 8pm, will people laugh at me at 10pm when I return home?
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Doubtful. Unless there are Pitti-Style peacocks or Toronto Sapeurs lining the entry into your building.
 
How to prevent inner thigh piling? I have noticed some of my wool pants have this problem more than others. Besides losing thigh size, other suggestions?
 
Pauly Chase said:
How to prevent inner thigh piling? I have noticed some of my wool pants have this problem more than others. Besides losing thigh size, other suggestions?
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I've found that (perhaps counter-intuitively) more generously-cut trousers help to prevent pilling/wear on the inner thighs.

However, I think that the main thing is to choose a "smooth" fabric, rather than one that has more exposed fibres. Flannels, thicker fabrics, fabrics woven into a pattern all tend to wear more at friction points, whereas smoother fabrics don't tend to wear as much.
 
Journeyman said:
I've found that (perhaps counter-intuitively) more generously-cut trousers help to prevent pilling/wear on the inner thighs.

However, I think that the main thing is to choose a "smooth" fabric, rather than one that has more exposed fibres. Flannels, thicker fabrics, fabrics woven into a pattern all tend to wear more at friction points, whereas smoother fabrics don't tend to wear as much.
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I have noticed this aspect. Also wool blend pants don't pile as much as pure wool counter parts.

It's hard to find off the rack dress pants with generous upper cuts and somewhat slimmed lower halves and a 32/33 waist size. I need to figure out a way to reduce the size of my tumor sized thighs.
 
Hmmm... my experience has been the opposite - wool-blend trousers seem to pill more than pure wool. Once again, I suspect that it mostly comes down to the weave of the fabric and how smooth it is.

When I was doing a lot of cycling, I used to have a 30-32" waist size, but I'd always have to get trousers with a 34" waist and then have them taken in at the waist. Now, of course, I don't do any cycling at all and have a 38" waist!

Here's a thread from SF on the same topic, with some useful input by ethandesu:

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...nd-wearing-through.224309/page-4#post-4181362
 
as a rule if thumb, at the shoulder when you have working cuffs unless its only just a little and the distance between the hem and the bottom bottonhole is still acceptable
 
Well yes. They fellow was asking about prices. Shortening sleeves at the shoulder is one of the trickier operations (not the trickiest though), so you should expect to pay around 80 pounds for the alteration (that's about 100 dollars - erratum corrige).
 
ConchitaWurst said:
as a rule if thumb, at the shoulder when you have working cuffs unless its only just a little and the distance between the hem and the bottom bottonhole is still acceptable
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I heard some aim for working buttons which are located very close to the edge of the sleeve
There are many schools on naples
 
TOGLIATTI said:
I heard some aim for working buttons which are located very close to the edge of the sleeve
There are many schools on naples
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Formosa is the foremost proponent of his, no? YMMV?

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It might work, just, on a single-button or two-button cuff on a shooting jacket. Otherwise it just looks like a poor man's alteration.
 
Where can l purchase a big bow tie from. Something like this:
Big bow tie 1.webp


A self tie would be preferred./

Big bow tie 2.webp
 
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^Lanvin used to make oversized, velvet bow ties, although I'm not sure if they still do.

Perhaps Tom Ford (given that is Tom Ford in the second photo above)?

Alternatively, you could always ask that Le Noeud Papillon chap in Sydney to make one for you, but I assume it would be fairly expensive.
 
Journeyman said:
^Lanvin used to make oversized, velvet bow ties, although I'm not sure if they still do.

Perhaps Tom Ford (given that is Tom Ford in the second photo above)?
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I have already checked out those places. No luck.

Journeyman said:
Alternatively, you could always ask that Le Noeud Papillon chap in Sydney to make one for you, but I assume it would be fairly expensive.
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Didn't want to do that, but may have to. I want a powerful statement piece I can identify with. Those small bow ties normally available are so pthh.

Looking for an excuse to get shirts made in Sydney again soon, so may be worth a visit to this bow tie man.

Thanks.
 
Actually, I just remembered that a friend of mine had some custom bow-ties made by a place in the US called "The Cordial Churchman" or something similar. They were happy to adjust measurements as requested (within reason, I suppose) but I'm not sure what sort of fabrics they have in stock - they might not have any black or dark navy velvet, for example. However, you may as well have a look to see what they've got.
 
Thoughts of Warby Parker? I got some money left in my HSA that I have to burn. I tried on some frames, the quality is meh, but the shape is good.
 
Journeyman said:
When I was doing a lot of cycling, I used to have a 30-32" waist size, but I'd always have to get trousers with a 34" waist and then have them taken in at the waist. Now, of course, I don't do any cycling at all and have a 38" waist!

Here's a thread from SF on the same topic, with some useful input by ethandesu:

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...nd-wearing-through.224309/page-4#post-4181362
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The sizing of modern trousers are all over the place, what kind of weird body are they making them for? A woman's me thinks, or for the Far East gent.

They're particularly tight around the crotch and balls. Unless your going with the ever reliable Brooks Brothers, I find the sizing all over the place. If it's Italian, I can generally go up two sizes no problem. The last flannels I had, I needed to go to a 38" just to get the crotch area right and then take them in.
 
Time to change out a few of my staple 'office casual' work shirts.

A) Are Spier & Mackay slim OCBDs really as nice as they look on their site? The sizing seems ok and they look to have more collar roll than anything I've seen at that price point.

B) If yes to the above, why haven't you bloody Canadians here been shilling these to me for the past four years!?!?!?

Also the moleskins look pretty nice.

Thruth Thruth or any other Canadians: any experience with S&M (heheh)?
 
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Im waiting for some pre-Xmas sales to buy some new sports coats. Time for an all seasons blue hopsack to replace the blue jacket I’m currently wearing losing love for. Next a blue tweed.

Finally, I was going to go with brown cord (thanks to @fxh’s suggestion) for that ivy The Graduate feel, but this moleskin has me rethinking. Which of these do you think would be more versatile for office casual?

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Or, just the blue hopsack and a blue moleskin? I already have a tan melange tweed jacket and winters here are short and mild.
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Journeyman said:
I don't know, but PS has had stores in Japan for decades - there's been one on Jingumae in Aoyama in Tokyo since about 1980.
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Yes, 1980 sounds about right. I was doing research to date my vintage Paul Stuart cashmere cardigan, and in my research l discovered an article written persumably in the 1980's that stated they wanted to open various stores in certain locations in the U.S by 1990. I also saw 1980's tags on jumpers, but mine is older. Given all this info l am guessing my cardigan is at least 1970's made-in-Scotland. Also, a 1980's looking tag also had new york/tokyo on it.

I shall continue my investigation. I want to know if my cardigan is 1970's or 1960's.
 
(Re)building a sport coat collection, with the following:

Navy moleskin
Heavy tweed barley corn melange
Navy summer hopsack
Summer cream linen

What would you add for number five?
 
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Dropbear said:
(Re)building a sport coat collection, with the following:

Navy moleskin
Heavy tweed barley corn melange
Navy summer hopsack
Summer cream linen

What would you add for number five?
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You can never have too many, or indeed just one is enough: a decent navy blazer with silver/bronze or pewter buttons. You can take anywhere. Just don't go gold buttons, or replace them.

I would ditch the linen and get something in one of the modern lightweight cloths that don't crease like er, linen.
 
Dropbear said:
(Re)building a sport coat collection, with the following:

Navy moleskin
Heavy tweed barley corn melange
Navy summer hopsack
Summer cream linen

What would you add for number five?
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Donegal tweed (not a black and white one though). Wearable for more of the year than Harris tweed.

Or

Prince of Wales check with blue overcheck

Or

Cording three button Saxony tweed (in a not too heavy weight).

Or

A nice gunclub check. https://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/collections/porter-harding/glorious-twelfth - 25549 is a nice 11 ounce cloth.
 
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Dropbear said:
(Re)building a sport coat collection, with the following:

Navy moleskin
Heavy tweed barley corn melange
Navy summer hopsack
Summer cream linen

What would you add for number five?
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So many things missing
Five is just not enough
Summer tobacco linen
Summer light blue linen
Summer cream linen db
Summer blue hopsack db

Winter db navy blazer - WITH gold buttons
Several green winter jackets, donegal, herringbone etc
I got a nice brown bouclé, which i find very elegant

Just never felt the need to have a moleskin jacket
 
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