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Fwiffo said:
34c, humidex 42c. How do you gents not sweat in a lightweight suit and tie with a tumi travel bag walking a block?

Should I take my jacket off? And carry it over my forearm like the others do?
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You just sweat man.
 
Dropbear said:
Is there a technical reason flannel isn’t used in suits more often?
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Durability and not particularly crisp. Flannel ( original woolen flannel) isn't the most robust of fabrics. In fact, it can be rather fragile. Add in the fact that the trousers bags at the knees and it is overall slouchy and akin to wearing fancy PJs, some avoid it.

YMMV!
 
QuandoDio said:
Durability and not particularly crisp. Flannel ( original woolen flannel) isn't the most robust of fabrics. In fact, it can be rather fragile. Add in the fact that the trousers bags at the knees and it is overall slouchy and akin to wearing fancy PJs, some avoid it.

YMMV!
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Flannel trousers with a twill weave are pretty robust. Grey flannels in winter are the way to go. But if you don't get them in twill you will likely get one season out of them. I like the slouchy drape and the air of Edward VIII all gone bad.
 
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Pimpernel Smith said:
Flannel trousers with a twill weave are pretty robust. Grey flannels in winter are the way to go. But if you don't get them in twill you will likely get one season out of them. I like the slouchy drape and the air of Edward VIII all gone bad.
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I have a good number of flannel trews in several colours and a flannel suit or two so I have a decent perspective and obviously a fan. I dig the dégagé look. And I believe in colder seasons, few things feel better than being wrapped in flannel.

I disagree though - even in twills, it is not that durable. The three flannel trousers I have blown in the crotch, were twills. Two were RTW from Uncle Ralph and one was bespoke from Scabal ( lasted two wears)
 
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QuandoDio said:
The three flannel trousers I have blown in the crotch, were twills. Two were RTW from Uncle Ralph and one was bespoke from Scabal ( lasted two wears)
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Only two wears? There much have been a lot of crotch-rubbing going on for them to blow out so quickly! ;)
 
QuandoDio said:
Durability and not particularly crisp. Flannel ( original woolen flannel) isn't the most robust of fabrics. In fact, it can be rather fragile. Add in the fact that the trousers bags at the knees and it is overall slouchy and akin to wearing fancy PJs, some avoid it.

YMMV!
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Yeah, you have to actually be aiming for the slouchy look. Which has it's merits. A good DB flannel in the winter is quite louche.
 
i don’t need another blue sports coat, but I kinda like the whole flannel pajama louche vibe
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^Coincidentally, I'm wearing a pair of Carmina shell cordovan boots as I'm typing this.

I've got four pairs of Carmina shell boots and shoes and pair of calf leather shoes, and they're fine. I'd put them at C&J benchgrade level or thereabouts.

Apparently, the Inca last is made to a slightly higher standard than Carmina's other shoes, although I can't remember quite why. If they fit you and if you need a new pair of double-monk shoes, $300 sounds like a very good price.
 
Journeyman said:
^Coincidentally, I'm wearing a pair of Carmina shell cordovan boots as I'm typing this.

I've got four pairs of Carmina shell boots and shoes and pair of calf leather shoes, and they're fine. I'd put them at C&J benchgrade level or thereabouts.

Apparently, the Inca last is made to a slightly higher standard than Carmina's other shoes, although I can't remember quite why. If they fit you and if you need a new pair of double-monk shoes, $300 sounds like a very good price.
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I always want a pair of double monks in chestnut colorway, and these are the ideal shade.

Shoes in question

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Note how easily I just upped my post count, which heretofore's been quite minuscule. At the expense of Mr. Chase I realize, but posting is a cruel business.
 
Duffle coats - are they better at the classic length and boxy fit, or slightly trimmer? They seem to be really unpopular and expensive new so I'll probably have to find some vintage one and blast it with moth killer.
 
Classic fit and length is the best. Remember you have to be able to wear it over a jacket or thick sweater, and still move freely while commanding your troops when hunting down nazis.

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MES said:
Duffle coats - are they better at the classic length and boxy fit, or slightly trimmer? They seem to be really unpopular and expensive new so I'll probably have to find some vintage one and blast it with moth killer.
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Go on eBay and look for older ones by Polo Ralph Lauren or Gloverall, maybe Burberry. They come at decent prices but can run a little large so check the measurements. Give it a proper dry cleaning and you should be fine. If you're in Europe you can look for a German brand called Ladage & Oelke. They aren't cheap, over 600€ at retail, but the quality is very good and they are quite renowned and pride themselves for their models. They do come in long and short sizes so again check the measurements as they can rune a little large.

To me they look better when they are a little on the larger side and reach down to your knees . Check this photo of Fox Brothers' Douglas Cordeaux, made by Ladage and Oelke. https://www.instagram.com/p/BcsO45lhx3C/?taken-by=mart_josef

Ignore crap like Spier and Mackey. A duffle coat only has toggels and no zips.
 
How would you rate the versatility of a camel hair sports coat over tweeds and herringbones? I know some people refer to it as an essential basic, but it can sometimes look plain and just too conservative.
 
Dropbear said:
How would you rate the versatility of a camel hair sports coat over tweeds and herringbones? I know some people refer to it as an essential basic, but it can sometimes look plain and just too conservative.
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The fabrics work together no problem. But the problem is the camelhair working with people's colouring. That light a colour often does not work for many people.
 
Still struggling to find inspiration/justification for a camel hair sports coat. Brooks Brothers not really helping:

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This might be a very amateur question, but for those who own Edward Green/John Lobb shoes, can you list some areas where they are superior to CJ handgrade/Vass/etc and can command 1200 for a pair?
 
From a manufacturing standpoint there are none. They're all machine made.

The real differences lie in the design, the lasts, and in some cases the models. If you want a pair of Dovers EG are the place to go, for Chapels John Lobb and so on. I personally find that EG and John Lobb do get the little details right, that can be missing in the other makers. This can be totally trivial as a nicer channelled sole or the length of the toecap on a pair of oxfords. While it's not an objective criteria I find EG the most pleasing aethetically. John Lobb are often said to have the best leather as they only make one pair from every hide.

If you want something different, Saint Crispin's is the way to go. Their shoes are hand-welted with wood-pegging in the waist.
 
Pauly Chase said:
This might be a very amateur question, but for those who own Edward Green/John Lobb shoes, can you list some areas where they are superior to CJ handgrade/Vass/etc and can command 1200 for a pair?
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All made the same way, except for Vass. I would say try Vass as I still think they are your best bet and you have the ability to custom order for the price of C&J.

C&J fell out of favour as an igent favourite with the arrival of other brands (Vass and Carmina to a lesser extent).

I think JL has the best attention to detail on their finishes. But if you are not going for museum or Misty or whatever, it then becomes a "what do I subjectively like most".

I don't like a lot of the last shapes of C&J shoes but I like their boots. Would not hesitate to buy over EG and JL (as JL has precious few boots).

Fit is another thing. EG 82 last works great for me and I like the pigeon-toe. The 606 or 202 less so.

JL 7000 and the last the Lopez is on (4395) great fit. 8000 does not work for me.

Vass yes to the F no to the U.

At this point in my life, if I were to buy RTW, I would pick JL > EG. I'd buy C&J over EG but that is just because EG has turned to satisfying igents tastes for weird colours and goofy leather choices. JL is immune to that it seems to me.

I'd order Vass again because you can do what you want with them. Order direct instead of dealing with proxy clowns. Don't know if you can as an American.

You have the ability to travel to NYC so I would also recommend JM Weston. Get properly sized in their shop. I like their shoes and I think they are closer to C&J in price than EJ.

This is based on 3 pairs JL, 2 pairs EG, 4 pairs Vass, 1 pair JMW. No C&J but that is only because the times I've gone into the only full service Canadian shop, what I wanted had to be ordered and I wasn't interested. Would have bought if in stock.
 
So if I am reading this correctly, besides possible quality difference and last shape, there is not that really much difference between 1500 JL/EG and 700 Vass/CJ.

I am asking because I have a bunch of Saksfifthavenue gift cards and I thought about buying a pair of EG since Saks doesnt carry CJ/Vass/etc
 
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Thruth said:
A
I don't like a lot of the last shapes of C&J shoes but I like their boots. Would not hesitate to buy over EG and JL (as JL has precious few boots).
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The 325 last is pretty much dated and if you like a more chiselled toe you'll be sadly disappointed with this snub-nosed offering, unless you get the boots. I've two Pembroke's and they're aesthetically awful, but the Coniston boot actually works in the 325 last, of which I also have two! I don't quite understand why the boots work and the oxfords don't.


Pauly Chase said:
So if I am reading this correctly, besides possible quality difference and last shape, there is not that really much difference between 1500 JL/EG and 700 Vass/CJ.

I am asking because I have a bunch of Saksfifthavenue gift cards and I thought about buying a pair of EG since Saks doesnt carry CJ/Vass/etc
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The best option is to physically try the shoes before buying. If you're buying online because you have to, then you have the risk of added mail costs and stress of will they refund/send out the correct size, etc, etc.
 
I have two pairs of CJ handgrades that I bought at discount, I really don't notice any superiority over anything in the lower price range. I honestly feel Tricker's makes the best shoes followed by Alfred Sargent.
 
Matching color belt with shoes? I have some odd color shoes, but I don't want buy belts just for one color.
 
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