Car Talk

Monkeyface said:
Challenger vs camaro vs mustang?
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You don't want to drive any of those cars, unless (a) it is a well-maintained model from the 70s to be used on sunny days or (b) a new model where you plan on spending a lot more money/work to make a passable drive out of it, that is still only useful for doing the ridicule on any race track (save for maybe some obscure and irrelevant drag race).
 
Monkeyface said:
One car only. Tesla is a bit pricy and still not practical enough atm, especially for road trips.
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I think you need to focus on what you want, you are all over the place. From an M3 to a camaro. I wouldnt get any of those choices myself, but thats just me.
 
güero said:
You don't want to drive any of those cars, unless (a) it is a well-maintained model from the 70s to be used on sunny days or (b) a new model where you plan on spending a lot more money/work to make a passable drive out of it, that is still only useful for doing the ridicule on any race track (save for maybe some obscure and irrelevant drag race).
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New models of course. Classic ones are not practical daily drivers. What would you have to spend to make a passable drive out of it? Where else can you get close to 500hp and a nice V8 rumble for less than $45k?
 
Leitmotif said:
I think you need to focus on what you want, you are all over the place. From an M3 to a camaro. I wouldnt get any of those choices myself, but thats just me.
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I've narrowed some quite a bit to one of the pony cars. If I'm movie to America I should get an American car. They're a hell of a lot cheaper as well.
 
Monkeyface said:
New models of course. Classic ones are not practical daily drivers. What would you have to spend to make a passable drive out of it? Where else can you get close to 500hp and a nice V8 rumble for less than $45k?
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I'd imagine that you would like to change as much as possible with regard to the chassis, e.g. at least the suspension. That is, if you plan on doing anything besides driving really fast on a straight, dry road.

In case you want lots and lots of V/hp, my personal recommendation would be a used Phaeton W12, with something like 450bhp and far over 500nm of torque iirc. They are dirt cheap, because they don't look too nice and are rather expensive regarding maintenance. They were about 20-30k€ for models with 50-70k km on them.
 
güero said:
I'd imagine that you would like to change as much as possible with regard to the chassis, e.g. at least the suspension. That is, if you plan on doing anything besides driving really fast on a straight, dry road.

In case you want lots and lots of V/hp, my personal recommendation would be a used Phaeton W12, with something like 450bhp and far over 500nm of torque iirc. They are dirt cheap, because they don't look too nice and are rather expensive regarding maintenance. They were about 20-30k€ for models with 50-70k km on them.
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Don't think there are many pheatons in the US. The new camaro is really good, have you seen the nurburgring times? It's as fast as a 911S, which is twice as expensive. The mustang is decent as well, while the challenger is more for going fast in a straight line or going for a relaxed highway drive.
 
Mustang for performance and practicality (relatively speaking)

Get the Shelby if you want to be a big timer. Or a Saleen version

Camaro ergonomics suck big time
 
Just watched the video, quite impressive, even taking into account the usual OEM manipulations like non-street-legal tires etc that they probably used. Still, there are many many other cars I'd prefer.
 
The Dodge Challenger was in the latest episode of the Grand Tour. Fantastic car and a great episode as well, feels like the old top gear.
 
need to replace the cabin and engine air filters in the Camry. is there any difference in the factory parts vs. a Fram i can get at Walmart/Target? how about the better quality ones, they worth while?
 
Rambo said:
need to replace the cabin and engine air filters in the Camry. is there any difference in the factory parts vs. a Fram i can get at Walmart/Target? how about the better quality ones, they worth while?
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Cabin filters are a pain in the ass to change. some cars have several. Mine has 3 or 2. How much is toyota charging you for it? The intake filter you can do that yourself, get a k&n for 15 dollars and you are set. Fram is a piece of shit btw.
 
Rambo said:
where the fuck can you buy a K&N for $15?

Toyota wants $20 for the white pleated and $35 for the grey charcoal one. there's only one filter in the glove box.
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Amazon, if you gonna keep it for a while might as well get the one you can clean up yourself.
 
Lol damn it, i guess they have gone up. Last time i bought one was 2 and a half years ago lol
 
Rambo said:
any thoughts on this other than from the resident coconut?
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The cabin filters aren't as critical as the engine ones, I'd just get whatever is cheaper. For the engine I'd get something middle of the road. I don't think Fram is terrible though for air filters. Their oil filters are a little iffy.
 
So I had a perfectly good Tacoma for the Missus. But it had a blind spot so I flipped it for what she wanted: a Land Rover LR3.

Then one day the LR3 lurched and lost braking. It did it again with our son. So now it was a death machine although I told her that is what Land Rovers are. So I flipped it for a new vehicle. OLOLOLOL

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Been sick in bed all day, so have been doing some online car shopping to see what the market is like.

Looks like a lot of dealers have a 5-10 2016 hellcats on their lots, some for 100+ days. Already seeing $5k-6k discounts. I'm guessing by next year those discounts will increase if they don't move their stock and 2017 models start coming in, meaning you can pick up a brand new fully loaded one for $60k. Imagine how the people who paid $20k-30k over sticker last year must feel? $30k-40k depreciation in a year's time!

Still, you can pick up a brand new full option non-hellcat challenger for less than $40k. Still has 485hp, not bad either...
 
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Funny I drove a 2016 Dodge Charger R/T recently with a 5.7L Hemi V8. A lot of torque, but horse power is lacking. Great pick up speed in 1st and 2nd gear in manual mode. The car was definitely heavy.
 
Pauly Chase said:
Funny I drove a 2016 Dodge Charger R/T recently with a 5.7L Hemi V8. A lot of torque, but horse power is lacking. Great pick up speed in 1st and 2nd gear in manual mode. The car was definitely heavy.
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Awesome! Would you say it's suitable as a daily driver? I'll rent one for a few days next time I'm in the US to see if I like it.

The R/T only has 380hp though. The 392 is about $40k and has 485hp, seems like a nice middle ground between the insane hellcat and the R/T.
 
If you do a lot highway driving, definitely. Since 4 cylinders shut off. If not, be ready to dish out gas money. I averaged 14 miles per gallon mixed driving.
 
anyone here experienced with car leasing? i'm very well versed in buy tactics but have never leased before. looking into a 2017 honda accord or 2016 honda civic, both have deals from Honda currently:

http://automobiles.honda.com/current-offers.aspx . type in 33433 for the zip code to see the details.

thoughts on these? any good sources of information on leasing?
 
Rambo said:
anyone here experienced with car leasing? i'm very well versed in buy tactics but have never leased before. looking into a 2017 honda accord or 2016 honda civic, both have deals from Honda currently:

http://automobiles.honda.com/current-offers.aspx . type in 33433 for the zip code to see the details.

thoughts on these? any good sources of information on leasing?
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Small print looks like the lease is based on MSRP. You need to go into the dealer and negotiate the price like you are buying and then do the lease.

They don't provide the money factor to see what the effective % rate is.
 
Thruth said:
Small print looks like the lease is based on MSRP. You need to go into the dealer and negotiate the price like you are buying and then do the lease.

They don't provide the money factor to see what the effective % rate is.
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does it matter? in the stated terms negotiated by the manufacturer, why do the differing rates matter to me if we're just going to turn it in at the end? again, i know nothing about leasing.

these are the offer details on the $199 lease for 36 months

Closed end lease for 2017 Accord Sedan CVT LX (CR2F3HEW) available from January 4, 2017 through February 28, 2017, to well-qualified lessees approved by Honda Financial Services. Not all lessees will qualify. Higher lease rates apply for lessees with lower credit ratings. MSRP $24,130.00 (includes destination, excludes tax, license, title, registration, documentation fees, options, insurance and the like). Actual net capitalized cost $20,179.80. Net capitalized cost includes $595 acquisition fee. Dealer contribution may vary and could affect actual lease payment. Total monthly payments $7,164.00. Option to purchase at lease end $13,512.80. Must take new retail delivery on vehicle from dealer stock by February 28, 2017. Lessee responsible for maintenance, excessive wear/tear and 15¢/mile over 12,000 miles/year for vehicles with MSRP less than $30,000, and 20¢/mile over 12,000 miles/year for vehicles with MSRP of $30,000 or more. See your Honda dealer for complete details.

what does the bold section mean?
 
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money factor .00041

over the phone the sales guy said the EX would be about $230 a month
 
Rambo said:
does it matter? in the stated terms negotiated by the manufacturer, why do the differing rates matter to me if we're just going to turn it in at the end? again, i know nothing about leasing.

these are the offer details on the $199 lease for 36 months

Closed end lease for 2017 Accord Sedan CVT LX (CR2F3HEW) available from January 4, 2017 through February 28, 2017, to well-qualified lessees approved by Honda Financial Services. Not all lessees will qualify. Higher lease rates apply for lessees with lower credit ratings. MSRP $24,130.00 (includes destination, excludes tax, license, title, registration, documentation fees, options, insurance and the like). Actual net capitalized cost $20,179.80. Net capitalized cost includes $595 acquisition fee. Dealer contribution may vary and could affect actual lease payment. Total monthly payments $7,164.00. Option to purchase at lease end $13,512.80. Must take new retail delivery on vehicle from dealer stock by February 28, 2017. Lessee responsible for maintenance, excessive wear/tear and 15¢/mile over 12,000 miles/year for vehicles with MSRP less than $30,000, and 20¢/mile over 12,000 miles/year for vehicles with MSRP of $30,000 or more. See your Honda dealer for complete details.

what does the bold section mean?
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If the dealer has incentives to lower the price, you lower your lease payments.

Dealers may also charge a premium on a car above MSRP if it is in demand. Higher lease

If dealer installed options are on it, price is different than MSRP

The money factor you were quoted is equivalent to purchase financing, which is good
 
Thruth said:
If the dealer has incentives to lower the price, you lower your lease payments.

Dealers may also charge a premium on a car above MSRP if it is in demand. Higher lease

If dealer installed options are on it, price is different than MSRP

The money factor you were quoted is equivalent to purchase financing, which is good
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this is known. what i'm asking about is, if the manufacturer itself is incentivizing a particular deal, and has set all the rates, what is the difference in knowing a non-advertised rate like the money factor? the dealer isn't involved here and i can't negotiate it since its set by Honda. of course i can deal with the dealership itself but i HIGHLY doubt i could beat that offer.
 
Rambo said:
this is known. what i'm asking about is, if the manufacturer itself is incentivizing a particular deal, and has set all the rates, what is the difference in knowing a non-advertised rate like the money factor? the dealer isn't involved here and i can't negotiate it since its set by Honda. of course i can deal with the dealership itself but i HIGHLY doubt i could beat that offer.
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Just to know what Honda USA is charging for financing the lease.

If you don't think a dealer will deal on the price, then deal direct with Honda. The dealer still gives you the Honda lease deal

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Rambo said:
Indeed. I'll report back tomorrow. What are the relevant options I should ask about in regards to the lease?
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You know how a lease works, right? You basically pay for the expected depreciation during your time of usage. If actual deprecation is more than expected deprecation + lease fees you win, if actual depreciation is less you lose. The financing branches of Ford, GM and FCA are adjusting their profit expectations downwards do to a higher than expected depreciation over the past 3 years. I believe a glut of used cars will be hitting the market over the next 2 years as leasing has gotten more popular, so it's unlikely you'll benefit from cheap residuals. Better to finance and buy, prob better dealer discounts. It'll be a more liquid asset as well, it's expensive to get rid of a leased car prematurely.
 
Rambo said:
Indeed. I'll report back tomorrow. What are the relevant options I should ask about in regards to the lease?
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I wouldnt lease at the time being, I looked at a cayeen and a range rover and wasnt worth it. Good thing is that you dont have to care if something stops working on the car due to wear and tear.
 
Monkeyface said:
You know how a lease works, right? You basically pay for the expected depreciation during your time of usage. If actual deprecation is more than expected deprecation + lease fees you win, if actual depreciation is less you lose. The financing branches of Ford, GM and FCA are adjusting their profit expectations downwards do to a higher than expected depreciation over the past 3 years. I believe a glut of used cars will be hitting the market over the next 2 years as leasing has gotten more popular, so it's unlikely you'll benefit from cheap residuals. Better to finance and buy prob.
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not at the moment. i'm looking at a honda accord, not a luxury vehicle, and i'm looking at it as a second car. for a three year lease with only $2000 down we're looking at roughly $200 a month. to buy we'd be looking at probably $425 a month.
 
Leitmotif said:
I wouldnt lease at the time being, I looked at a cayeen and a range rover and wasnt worth it. Good thing is that you dont have to care if something stops working on the car due to wear and tear.
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Agreed, although for $20k econoboxes he won't have to worry about big maintenance costs. Better to finance atm.
 
Rambo said:
not at the moment. i'm looking at a honda accord, not a luxury vehicle, and i'm looking at it as a second car. for a three year lease with only $2000 down we're looking at roughly $200 a month. to buy we'd be looking at probably $425 a month.
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No, you don't get it. You can't simply compare the two payments. Read again. Also, down payment on a lease doesn't make sense.

Look at your lease residuals and fees and do a quick comparison with where you expect 3y old accords to trade. Compare with the equity you will have in 3yrs if you were to buy it. Ballpark nr is fine, but you wanna do some quick analysis before you sign a 3y commitment.
 
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