Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Kingstonian

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2,800
I place Boyer far above those clowns. Most of his outfits are excellent and quite classic. And he's a genuinely good writer. Crapton can't write, has a bizarre frame, and, as has been well documented here, is not an honest reviewer of clothing but a freebie-seeker. Dieworkshill has never been publicly photographed, making him all talk (and boy does he do an inordinate amount of this - badly) and no walk.
Boyer is certainly better than Flutter.

However, when you look at Flutter’s stuff you immediately ask ‘Is this bloke isupposed to be an authority on menswear?’
 

kneeshuh

Member
Messages
9
Boyer is a good writer and a reasonably good dresser.
Some of his outfits are very good, others are disastrous (That covert (?) suit and neckerchief combination being one of them).

But in general, I think of him as the best living combination of writer/clotheshorse.
 

ballmouse

Well-Known Member
Messages
317
I have never read anything by Boyer, but I have seen his name pop up numerous times and seen the odd photo of him here and there.

It could be worse. If he's the face of #menswear, then at least he doesn't give menswear a bad name. But he isn't going to do a whole lot of the opposite direction. Though I suppose he gives it a hint of respectability.

My concern with all fashion writers is how much of what they write and wear related to the job (e.g. I would think differently and dress differently if this were not my job). I suppose it's a question of authenticity, as we know the business is filled with a lot of folks who want to be or appear to be somebody and have little substance underneath. Does Boyer deep down wax poetically to everyone about corduroy or does he do it because he needs an article and someone happened to gift him some free corduroy trousers? Is he wearing that sports coat, tie, and scarf because he's got to dress up for that menswear function or would he be wearing such an outfit or any old event anyway?

I think the best dressers are the ones who make it appear natural and unforced. Being in the industry creates an environment where you start too think too much about it (or at least that's my impression for some folks).
 

Pimpernel Smith

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8,740
This does seem to be true. I emailed Christian about why he let Ivy Style be taken over by the idiot now in charge who is so antithetical to his values and got no response.
He has no depth to stick with anything for long. By his own admission short article journalism is his bag.

My good friend, Mr Storey and I, stormed the reality studio of his Dandyism forum back in the late 2000's. That was an excellent forum with some great characters. But he let that go when he saw the Ivy style revival train arrive into town. A sensible chap would have had all the plates spinning on the sticks.
I like reading Boyer and he has a good dress sense as a rule. Clearly he smashed that rule to bits with Darths pic. I've watched him on panels doing talks and he's not a good speaker. I've only read articles by him though. I wouldn't buy a book on menswear. As much as I love clothes and enjoy talking about them on here books on dressing, or clothes in general are like flogging a dead horse.
Boyer's articles are reasonable enough.
The Billy Bunter laugh is as good as any.
 

güero

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Messages
1,207
I‘ve never read anything from Boyer etc and do not plan to do so, also don’t like and almost never read the blogs like Crompton etc, unless something especially hilarious comes up here in this forum. BUT I‘ve listened to a podcast with Bruce Boyer, it is just a few episodes and was at least marginally interesting. Some nice anecdotes. Not sure if it was mentioned here already
 

Great White Snark

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Messages
726
These kind of people might be a halfway decent reference for beginners but after a while they sink into their default ‘uniforms’ and don’t have a lot more to offer, especially if we the audience are relatively clued up.
A large portion of Crompton’s clothes appear to be brown sport coat, grey flannels, brown shoes. There’s only so far you can go with that. In every picture of Boyer I can recall he was wearing a brown tweed sport coat, gray or navy flannels and tan suede shoes. Flutter should go and read a book entitled ‘Dressing The Man’ to get some idea of what to wear as he appears to be completely clueless.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
7,073
26” inseem and I recall this guy is close to my height!

The 10” leg opening might look better in a longer length, but it’s making me nervous about the jeans Ciano Farmer is making me now with a 9.5” opening. They may end up a little …. groovy.

It’s a beautiful jacket, but he is never going to wear it with thick gloves so he can ditch those long zipper pulls.

 

some bongo player

Active Member
Messages
44
This does seem to be true. I emailed Christian about why he let Ivy Style be taken over by the idiot now in charge who is so antithetical to his values and got no response.

I suspect he has received quite a few comments along similar lines. I was never a Chens fan - to say the least - but at least his writing is readable, he knows something about ivy and, although I don't like his style, he's not one of the worst-dressed people online. Would that we could say the same about the new guy.

However unless someone else comes along to replace him, I doubt he'll get canned. Also the new guy mentioned to me (in a rather heated private conversation after I commented on the IS FB page with an honest appraisal of his 'writing' abilities) that he is 'thriving' right now, and is thus better off ignoring my advice. (A while ago I politely suggested that he would benefit from improving his knowledge of ivy clothing. I refrained from mentioning that his knowledge of ivy clothing is almost non-existent.) By thriving I think that means the site is getting lots of hits, which is what it's all about, I suppose.
 

some bongo player

Active Member
Messages
44
I understand Christian is now a bearded lifestyle coach. The alliance with him, Boyer and Richard Press is severed. They've certainly not been seen in public for sometime.

The evidence suggests that whatever interest in ivy Chens had is long gone. I've not seen anything to suggest he's a lifestyle coach, although he did mention that he has a monthly article somewhere about spirituality. At the same time he also mentioned that he has never worn a face mask throughout the pandemic. Which made me wonder if the whole IS site was satire. It would explain a lot.

I suspect he is now mostly living off IS. So he better hope the new guy doesn't fuck it up for him.
 

Sartodi Napoli

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Messages
1,645
This “writers” as Bruce “voyeur” are faulty of the waves from the late 80´s into deep tackysm. They believe going to the office is like going to Rio de Janeiro´s Carnival, since most of them are lazy livers who have never, never worked on their obscure lifes.
 

doghouse

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The evidence suggests that whatever interest in ivy Chens had is long gone. I've not seen anything to suggest he's a lifestyle coach, although he did mention that he has a monthly article somewhere about spirituality. At the same time he also mentioned that he has never worn a face mask throughout the pandemic. Which made me wonder if the whole IS site was satire. It would explain a lot.

I suspect he is now mostly living off IS. So he better hope the new guy doesn't fuck it up for him.

He has gone full on wellness douchebag.
 

Great White Snark

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726
I mean, that's their target audience. I think they serve a good enough purpose for that.
I don’t think Crompton is aiming at noobs. The cost of the bespoke stuff he features, along with the stuff he has made up for sale through his site, would seem to me to be way above what I’d expect a beginner to be investing in clothes unless it’s some sort of silver spoon trust fund kid who’s just had a sartorial epiphany.
 

Dropbear

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7,073
You guys could be right, but I always imagined his fan base were a bunch of wannabes. The people on a Suit Supply budget who live vicariously through Crompers and most importantly want to be able to sound like they are part of the in-crowd, peppering their discussion of menswear with the right Pitti references.
 

Great White Snark

Well-Known Member
Messages
726
You guys could be right, but I always imagined his fan base were a bunch of wannabes. The people on a Suit Supply budget who live vicariously through Crompers and most importantly want to be able to sound like they are part of the in-crowd, peppering their discussion of menswear with the right Pitti references.
Could be - but then his astronomically over priced ‘collaborations’ always seem to sell out so it would seem he has a sizeable following of rich gullible sycophants!
 

McBox

Well-Known Member
Messages
63
Craptom evolution - now leaving almost all tailoring in back of wardrobe because no longer fits his lifestyle. All suedy shirts now
 

Darth Bane

Member
Messages
12
You guys could be right, but I always imagined his fan base were a bunch of wannabes. The people on a Suit Supply budget who live vicariously through Crompers and most importantly want to be able to sound like they are part of the in-crowd, peppering their discussion of menswear with the right Pitti references.

Crompton is a total nobody. He faked a bunch of 'menswear knowledge' early on (seriously, have you read those early articles?) and subsequently begged and weaseled his way into a few ill-fitting suits. I doubt his fanbase is much different.

Same with that workwear guy. I saw someone mention on SF that he was into hip-hop once, so I did some digging. Apparently that doofus has been wearing suits and such for less than a decade, and he still has dozens of stans on that forum.
 

doghouse

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I don’t think Crompton is aiming at noobs. The cost of the bespoke stuff he features, along with the stuff he has made up for sale through his site, would seem to me to be way above what I’d expect a beginner to be investing in clothes unless it’s some sort of silver spoon trust fund kid who’s just had a sartorial epiphany.
Oh fuck that guy. I'm talking about Boyer
 

Dropbear

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7,073
Crompton is a total nobody. He faked a bunch of 'menswear knowledge' early on (seriously, have you read those early articles?) and subsequently begged and weaseled his way into a few ill-fitting suits. I doubt his fanbase is much different.

Same with that workwear guy. I saw someone mention on SF that he was into hip-hop once, so I did some digging. Apparently that doofus has been wearing suits and such for less than a decade, and he still has dozens of stans on that forum.

Die Workwear might be a shill with pretensions of grandeur, but I have a bit of a soft spot for him. While Crompers built his base torturing prose about his artisanal garden gate tattoo or ancient Italian master craftsman, DW built his following giving solid answers to all the newb questions no one else would answer (brown or black shoes with this suit? do these pants fit? Should I buy skinny jeans? Which of these two jackets is better?). He might be nothing more than a glorified sales assistant, but he is doing people a service answering the basic questions everyone else ignores.
 

Darth Bane

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12
IMG_20211019_122520.jpg
 

Darth Bane

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Die Workwear might be a shill with pretensions of grandeur, but I have a bit of a soft spot for him. While Crompers built his base torturing prose about his artisanal garden gate tattoo or ancient Italian master craftsman, DW built his following giving solid answers to all the newb questions no one else would answer (brown or black shoes with this suit? do these pants fit? Should I buy skinny jeans? Which of these two jackets is better?). He might be nothing more than a glorified sales assistant, but he is doing people a service answering the basic questions everyone else ignores.
I guess so. I just don't have much patience for people who copycat people for a few years/wear a bunch of old crap and think that makes them some kind of authority. Even someone like Boyer, who admittedly has at least been dressing the same old way for decades - even his style is all derivative.

None of these guys has the chops that comes from actually having a lifestyle that includes these clothes outside of their journalism and blogging. They always talk about tradition, but how many of them know why jackets should have white/light sleeves, for example? Or how you're actually supposed to wear a handkerchief/silk square? (hint: not in your goddamn breast pocket) There's a lot that you only pick up from having lived a certain way, mostly details that show someone up if they're just faking a lifestyle.

They're fine for what they do. But that kind of puffery from wannabes is also amusing.
 

The Ernesto

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Messages
452
These kind of people might be a halfway decent reference for beginners but after a while they sink into their default ‘uniforms’ and don’t have a lot more to offer, especially if we the audience are relatively clued up.
A large portion of Crompton’s clothes appear to be brown sport coat, grey flannels, brown shoes. There’s only so far you can go with that. In every picture of Boyer I can recall he was wearing a brown tweed sport coat, gray or navy flannels and tan suede shoes. Flutter should go and read a book entitled ‘Dressing The Man’ to get some idea of what to wear as he appears to be completely clueless.

Spot on. They are a starting point for a lot of people and provide a frame but they all work within their own fairly distinct parameters which can be picked up and understood (or dismissed) fairly quickly.
 

Sartodi Napoli

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1,645
Die Workwear might be a shill with pretensions of grandeur, but I have a bit of a soft spot for him. While Crompers built his base torturing prose about his artisanal garden gate tattoo or ancient Italian master craftsman, DW built his following giving solid answers to all the newb questions no one else would answer (brown or black shoes with this suit? do these pants fit? Should I buy skinny jeans? Which of these two jackets is better?). He might be nothing more than a glorified sales assistant, but he is doing people a service answering the basic questions everyone else ignores.


Die work psychopath pm´ed almost all the forum bullshiting me saying a Finamore shirt I commisioned and came pretty bad ( they re did me another one in Naples) years before I decided to study High Tailoring in Naples was made by myself, and that was the gold prove I was a wanna be tailor and a fail so avoid ordering me any garment! ( psychopath behaviour and deep cowardly, as those are). This happened around +-2016.

The ridiculous thing is that I posted that same pic around +-2010 saying was a badspoke from Finamore, so almost everybody knew he is a psychopath who was lying with a fake speech and fake facts.
Psychopaths or malignant narcissist as he is do bullshit and try to destroy the fame of who their pathological personality consider their enemies. I do not consider him an “enemy” but another psychopath who uses clothes as a social shield to proyect an “uper class” like look while he and those profiles are plenty of complexes and by any reason are “upper class” or even class who wears suits to work, as pointed on the post I am repying. Just people disguissed trying to fool others and himself.

Per example, another less dangerous and fixable with threrapy ( on the contrary to the two before) category of narcissist are the vulnerable narcissist, where most of the people who are always posting pics of their outfits as a Barby do fit.

A lot of dignous members did report those pm´s and voila, nothing happened, even an obligation to public pardon to my person did not came, while the owner has this ridiculous rule “ the forum is like a bar, if several members do report, the reported is banned”, and I answered, so several members do report you and you should have to close the forum?

So if several members do report those horrible trolls and shills managed all by a few real humans ( maybe paid by the owner or shilled brands, or even the owner himself, since most behave the same way as him) and who in his sane mind or a basic job would have circa 100.000 post, posting ( crap) compulsively as a jackpot player. Nope, those are not., laugh loud about “ the rules”.

The banneds as exposed here by several members of this this other forum, on the contrary to the human logic, are only the ones who expose the scams or criminal behaviour on that horrible place as per example, the owner insulted half the citicens of USA who voted for the prior president. Any dignous brand who has publicity on that low place should have quitted inmediately, but you know what kind of low brands owned by people as this DW are... The have corso patent to delinq while bump the budget of that owner.

Anyway, who cares about a teenager forum with any real industry insider on the high tailoring industry, but me. I was the only one.

I am proud to, on the other hand, be here again, few guys but good ones.

Best
 
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robertito

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Messages
1,060
The lining is never white, it is stripped white. I read once that every tailor used a different striped pattern to identify their jackets.

Once factories started manufacturing jackets they copied that feature.

whatever is true or not I dont know

There was another reason why the colour was white but i can't remember (something about old stock/????)
 

Darth Bane

Member
Messages
12
Just out of interest...why is that?

The lining is never white, it is stripped white. I read once that every tailor used a different striped pattern to identify their jackets.

Once factories started manufacturing jackets they copied that feature.

whatever is true or not I dont know

There was another reason why the colour was white but i can't remember (something about old stock/????)

The lining is mostly striped today, but it wasn't always so in the past. I have one or two vintage jackets like this (both with plain lining).

The threads on SF talking about it always go back to that tailor identification thing, which illustrates just how bad their reasoning is - it's nonsense to assume that because something is the case today it must have been the case in the past. What's more, it makes no sense. Why would a tailor need to 'mark' a jacket on the sleeve lining, where absolutely no one could see and where you (the client) have no idea what it means?

Anyway, the real reason it's different is because you're supposed to wear the jacket basically all day, which causes a buildup of sweat, etc., in the shoulder and cuff areas over months/years of doing that. At some point, you bring the jacket to a tailor and have him remove the lining in the sleeves and replace them, just like you'd replace a collar or turn shirt cuffs back in the day. The lining is light to facilitate this (you see soilage more easily).

And I'm curious about this one.

That one's fun. Handkerchiefs were originally scented, both to provide a kind of 'signature' for the wearer if he gave one away and as means to mask foul odours. Those images of fancy dandies in the past putting their hands up to their face when they saw someone in squalor was not because of shock.

The handkerchief was always stuffed into the jacket sleeve, where it could be held up to the nose or quickly whipped out for any use. It was worn that way for centuries, and very traditional circles still pass that habit down today. Naval officers and people in traditional Scottish uniform carry them this way sometimes. It's very Hollywood-is-my-history-book to assume that a handkerchief has to be worn showing. The proper thing to do with it is either stuff it into the sleeve or carry it inside one of the jacket's hip pockets. A bit of silk in the breast pocket occasionally is one thing, but it isn't a necessity.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,194
The lining is mostly striped today, but it wasn't always so in the past. I have one or two vintage jackets like this (both with plain lining).

The threads on SF talking about it always go back to that tailor identification thing, which illustrates just how bad their reasoning is - it's nonsense to assume that because something is the case today it must have been the case in the past. What's more, it makes no sense. Why would a tailor need to 'mark' a jacket on the sleeve lining, where absolutely no one could see and where you (the client) have no idea what it means?

Anyway, the real reason it's different is because you're supposed to wear the jacket basically all day, which causes a buildup of sweat, etc., in the shoulder and cuff areas over months/years of doing that. At some point, you bring the jacket to a tailor and have him remove the lining in the sleeves and replace them, just like you'd replace a collar or turn shirt cuffs back in the day. The lining is light to facilitate this (you see soilage more easily).
So a marketing gimmick to go back to the tailor’s more often! 🤣🤣


That one's fun. Handkerchiefs were originally scented, both to provide a kind of 'signature' for the wearer if he gave one away and as means to mask foul odours. Those images of fancy dandies in the past putting their hands up to their face when they saw someone in squalor was not because of shock.

The handkerchief was always stuffed into the jacket sleeve, where it could be held up to the nose or quickly whipped out for any use. It was worn that way for centuries, and very traditional circles still pass that habit down today. Naval officers and people in traditional Scottish uniform carry them this way sometimes. It's very Hollywood-is-my-history-book to assume that a handkerchief has to be worn showing. The proper thing to do with it is either stuff it into the sleeve or carry it inside one of the jacket's hip pockets. A bit of silk in the breast pocket occasionally is one thing, but it isn't a necessity.

Ok so not so much “how its supposed to be worn” but rather “how it was used back when it had a very practical justification”. Hankies being an accessory for the most part these days, I wouldn’t claim that wearing them in the breast pocket is wrong.
 
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