Grand Potentate
Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
- Messages
- 39,117
does he work there or is this the only floor length mirror in town?
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does he work there or is this the only floor length mirror in town?
Boyer is certainly better than Flutter.I place Boyer far above those clowns. Most of his outfits are excellent and quite classic. And he's a genuinely good writer. Crapton can't write, has a bizarre frame, and, as has been well documented here, is not an honest reviewer of clothing but a freebie-seeker. Dieworkshill has never been publicly photographed, making him all talk (and boy does he do an inordinate amount of this - badly) and no walk.
He has no depth to stick with anything for long. By his own admission short article journalism is his bag.This does seem to be true. I emailed Christian about why he let Ivy Style be taken over by the idiot now in charge who is so antithetical to his values and got no response.
Boyer's articles are reasonable enough.I like reading Boyer and he has a good dress sense as a rule. Clearly he smashed that rule to bits with Darths pic. I've watched him on panels doing talks and he's not a good speaker. I've only read articles by him though. I wouldn't buy a book on menswear. As much as I love clothes and enjoy talking about them on here books on dressing, or clothes in general are like flogging a dead horse.
The Billy Bunter laugh is as good as any.
Knee capping would be the starting point for me.
This does seem to be true. I emailed Christian about why he let Ivy Style be taken over by the idiot now in charge who is so antithetical to his values and got no response.
I understand Christian is now a bearded lifestyle coach. The alliance with him, Boyer and Richard Press is severed. They've certainly not been seen in public for sometime.
These kind of people might be a halfway decent reference for beginners
The evidence suggests that whatever interest in ivy Chens had is long gone. I've not seen anything to suggest he's a lifestyle coach, although he did mention that he has a monthly article somewhere about spirituality. At the same time he also mentioned that he has never worn a face mask throughout the pandemic. Which made me wonder if the whole IS site was satire. It would explain a lot.
I suspect he is now mostly living off IS. So he better hope the new guy doesn't fuck it up for him.
I don’t think Crompton is aiming at noobs. The cost of the bespoke stuff he features, along with the stuff he has made up for sale through his site, would seem to me to be way above what I’d expect a beginner to be investing in clothes unless it’s some sort of silver spoon trust fund kid who’s just had a sartorial epiphany.I mean, that's their target audience. I think they serve a good enough purpose for that.
This. And people with money that like clothes but have no sense of style or time and appetite to develop one.silver spoon trust fund kid who’s just had a sartorial epiphany.
Could be - but then his astronomically over priced ‘collaborations’ always seem to sell out so it would seem he has a sizeable following of rich gullible sycophants!You guys could be right, but I always imagined his fan base were a bunch of wannabes. The people on a Suit Supply budget who live vicariously through Crompers and most importantly want to be able to sound like they are part of the in-crowd, peppering their discussion of menswear with the right Pitti references.
You guys could be right, but I always imagined his fan base were a bunch of wannabes. The people on a Suit Supply budget who live vicariously through Crompers and most importantly want to be able to sound like they are part of the in-crowd, peppering their discussion of menswear with the right Pitti references.
Oh fuck that guy. I'm talking about BoyerI don’t think Crompton is aiming at noobs. The cost of the bespoke stuff he features, along with the stuff he has made up for sale through his site, would seem to me to be way above what I’d expect a beginner to be investing in clothes unless it’s some sort of silver spoon trust fund kid who’s just had a sartorial epiphany.
Crompton is a total nobody. He faked a bunch of 'menswear knowledge' early on (seriously, have you read those early articles?) and subsequently begged and weaseled his way into a few ill-fitting suits. I doubt his fanbase is much different.
Same with that workwear guy. I saw someone mention on SF that he was into hip-hop once, so I did some digging. Apparently that doofus has been wearing suits and such for less than a decade, and he still has dozens of stans on that forum.
Well that makes one of us.Die Workwear might be a shill with pretensions of grandeur, but I have a bit of a soft spot for him.
I guess so. I just don't have much patience for people who copycat people for a few years/wear a bunch of old crap and think that makes them some kind of authority. Even someone like Boyer, who admittedly has at least been dressing the same old way for decades - even his style is all derivative.Die Workwear might be a shill with pretensions of grandeur, but I have a bit of a soft spot for him. While Crompers built his base torturing prose about his artisanal garden gate tattoo or ancient Italian master craftsman, DW built his following giving solid answers to all the newb questions no one else would answer (brown or black shoes with this suit? do these pants fit? Should I buy skinny jeans? Which of these two jackets is better?). He might be nothing more than a glorified sales assistant, but he is doing people a service answering the basic questions everyone else ignores.
These kind of people might be a halfway decent reference for beginners but after a while they sink into their default ‘uniforms’ and don’t have a lot more to offer, especially if we the audience are relatively clued up.
A large portion of Crompton’s clothes appear to be brown sport coat, grey flannels, brown shoes. There’s only so far you can go with that. In every picture of Boyer I can recall he was wearing a brown tweed sport coat, gray or navy flannels and tan suede shoes. Flutter should go and read a book entitled ‘Dressing The Man’ to get some idea of what to wear as he appears to be completely clueless.
Die Workwear might be a shill with pretensions of grandeur, but I have a bit of a soft spot for him. While Crompers built his base torturing prose about his artisanal garden gate tattoo or ancient Italian master craftsman, DW built his following giving solid answers to all the newb questions no one else would answer (brown or black shoes with this suit? do these pants fit? Should I buy skinny jeans? Which of these two jackets is better?). He might be nothing more than a glorified sales assistant, but he is doing people a service answering the basic questions everyone else ignores.
he's the same schlub that I posted. I think he works there.does he work there or is this the only floor length mirror in town?
"Tonight was a charity ball for Trans people here in NYC. It was a mild, for the time of year, 12 degrees. Our taxi arrived on time, 8pm, but due to traffic we got to the venue a little late. It was a fun evening, most of which I spent in the correction room which I'm onto my way to in the picture."
Just out of interest...why is that?know why jackets should have white/light sleeves
And I'm curious about this one.Or how you're actually supposed to wear a handkerchief/silk square? (hint: not in your goddamn breast pocket)
Just out of interest...why is that?
The lining is never white, it is stripped white. I read once that every tailor used a different striped pattern to identify their jackets.
Once factories started manufacturing jackets they copied that feature.
whatever is true or not I dont know
There was another reason why the colour was white but i can't remember (something about old stock/????)
And I'm curious about this one.
even his style is all derivative
So a marketing gimmick to go back to the tailor’s more often!The lining is mostly striped today, but it wasn't always so in the past. I have one or two vintage jackets like this (both with plain lining).
The threads on SF talking about it always go back to that tailor identification thing, which illustrates just how bad their reasoning is - it's nonsense to assume that because something is the case today it must have been the case in the past. What's more, it makes no sense. Why would a tailor need to 'mark' a jacket on the sleeve lining, where absolutely no one could see and where you (the client) have no idea what it means?
Anyway, the real reason it's different is because you're supposed to wear the jacket basically all day, which causes a buildup of sweat, etc., in the shoulder and cuff areas over months/years of doing that. At some point, you bring the jacket to a tailor and have him remove the lining in the sleeves and replace them, just like you'd replace a collar or turn shirt cuffs back in the day. The lining is light to facilitate this (you see soilage more easily).
That one's fun. Handkerchiefs were originally scented, both to provide a kind of 'signature' for the wearer if he gave one away and as means to mask foul odours. Those images of fancy dandies in the past putting their hands up to their face when they saw someone in squalor was not because of shock.
The handkerchief was always stuffed into the jacket sleeve, where it could be held up to the nose or quickly whipped out for any use. It was worn that way for centuries, and very traditional circles still pass that habit down today. Naval officers and people in traditional Scottish uniform carry them this way sometimes. It's very Hollywood-is-my-history-book to assume that a handkerchief has to be worn showing. The proper thing to do with it is either stuff it into the sleeve or carry it inside one of the jacket's hip pockets. A bit of silk in the breast pocket occasionally is one thing, but it isn't a necessity.
Everyone's style is derivative.