Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

some bongo player

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A good summary. Also he waffles constantly, meaning the reader has to make a great effort to follow what he's saying. Personally I can't be bothered and I end up skimming through the article wondering what the hell he's on about.

Also his pomposity (not in every article to be fair) is very off-putting. In an expert it would be tolerable although a weakness. In a novice it's just obnoxious.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Was
In a novice it's just obnoxious.
Hopefully, he's reading all these critiques of his prose and will make the necessary style changes to win the Pulitzer Prize.

The message: keep it simple like Orwell and Hemmingway and take the I out.

That's the best advice ever, all the other flourishes and fanciness you can add later.

Ivy itself is a limited style, which is good and coincided with modern jazz and even Ralph Lauren. It's easy to access and easy to master. I have no use for it anymore. But it has bundles of romance and the aesthetics are clean and cool.
 

some bongo player

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When I referred to him as a novice it was regarding his knowledge of ivy in particular and how to dress in general, rather than his writing skills. Maybe he could turn himself into a passable writer if his ego permitted him to follow the tips we have recently posted. Or maybe not - I fear there are other defects to his prose that have not been mentioned in this thread.

As regards his pomposity, to be fair that might not exist in his posts on IS itself. It's in the IS FB group that he loves to pontificate about style as if he were some kind of expert. It's like Ronald McDonald giving tips on gourmet cooking - but more embarrassing. At least Ronald McDonald is good at what he does.

In terms of who dresses better out of the 2: a close call, but Mr McDonald is slightly more stylish than new boy.
 

Sauce

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Don't worry Conga's. I've found the man for the job, the Talk Ivy gang are gonna be stoked with the new guy...

images.jpg
 

Sartodi Napoli

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This morning, the founder of Kiton, Ciro Paone, has passed away.

In the picture with the master of shirts in Kiton, my friend Borrelli.

Both great influence for me.

Rest in pace

249431838_10208948283500897_823577467463657079_n.jpg
 

belinmad

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1635394980462.png

Wtaf is this shit?
People need to stop trying to look cool by unnecessarily getting creative adding “sprezz”.
Put the tie back into the jacket, you motherfucking iGent you.
 

Great White Snark

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There was some prick on SF whose name escapes me who used to do that thing with the tie every day. His was an English name but IIRC he was German. Would pose for selfies in front of a wall of framed pictures including a faked up ‘Time - Man Of The Year’ with his mug on it. The desperation was palpable but his tenure on SF was mercifully short!
 

Pimpernel Smith

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T&A gets into expensive sweat pants:


 

Dropbear

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So it’s a wool flannel typically found in tailored trousers, but in a sweatpants design?

Do you wear these as casual formal wear or formal casual wear? 😕
 

doghouse

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I have a pair of PT Torino linen drawstring trousers. Mostly just for casual wear.
 

Rambo

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I have a pair of PT Torino linen drawstring trousers. Mostly just for casual wear.
“I wear my linen pyjamas outside because it’s the only way I can justify their price”
 

Thruth

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Johnny Caccaruti gives style tips

E33FD9CA-8962-4001-AAE2-333F669D69C2.jpeg
J



I made several mistakes early on in my journey down the road to elegance. But what are the mistakes I wouldn't make again?

1) Trouser width: I will no longer make them too tight; the pants must be well proportioned with the length of the shoe.

2) Trouser length: I won't make them too short anymore; otherwise in Italy they say you have water in the house like in Venice! Never show ankle and shoe 100% in its entirety. The pants must reach the shoe. It can arrive in a traditional way until it almost touches the heel or stay between the ankle and the shoe, without showing too much of the sock.

3) The colors worn: too many are excessive. Maximum three. And possibly not too garish. In fact I have some pants that I don't dare to wear anymore. They disgust me!

5) the size and proportions of lapels: never lapels that end almost behind the back, so high they are. And never too wide. They must be proportionate to the person. Maximum 12 cm. And even on this point I made some youthful mistakes. Result? I no longer wear those exaggerated clothes I had.

6) Shirts: also in this case I have some shirts that now I use only on weekends. My advice is not to exaggerate with stripes and checks; play with patterns, checks and stripes but always staying in the small or medium size.

7) Ties: never too big designs, especially if the jacket is single-breasted. The double-breasted allows a little more because being closed often tends to bring you towards sobriety even if you wear something strong. But do not abuse it. Also in this case the ties I wore 12 years ago are in the drawer of memories. And I don't even propose them to my clients anymore.

8) Socks: I prefer solid colors or small patterns. The only eccentric concession I allow myself is the plain red sock, maybe on a suede shoe. I would never wear socks with big designs.

9) Shoes: here my friend Freccia Bestetti always told me that the darker shades always win and at any time. In fact, he only allowed me one pair of two-tone dark brown and whiskey shoes. But nothing more. Maybe it goes without saying but never use light shoes in the evening, even if they are bespoke and beautiful.

10) Don't care what you wear: this is the only way to be naturally elegant. The dress must be your submissive victim. Yes, because if it prevails over you, making you feel like a prisoner inside, it's over for you on the outside. The risk of being plastered in public is just around the corner. And that can curb your elegance and your perceived poise to the outside eye.

11) If you're a dandy, you can afford anything. Your great personality will lead you to uniqueness.​
 

doghouse

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Johnny Caccaruti gives style tips

View attachment 41921J



I made several mistakes early on in my journey down the road to elegance. But what are the mistakes I wouldn't make again?

1) Trouser width: I will no longer make them too tight; the pants must be well proportioned with the length of the shoe.

2) Trouser length: I won't make them too short anymore; otherwise in Italy they say you have water in the house like in Venice! Never show ankle and shoe 100% in its entirety. The pants must reach the shoe. It can arrive in a traditional way until it almost touches the heel or stay between the ankle and the shoe, without showing too much of the sock.

3) The colors worn: too many are excessive. Maximum three. And possibly not too garish. In fact I have some pants that I don't dare to wear anymore. They disgust me!

5) the size and proportions of lapels: never lapels that end almost behind the back, so high they are. And never too wide. They must be proportionate to the person. Maximum 12 cm. And even on this point I made some youthful mistakes. Result? I no longer wear those exaggerated clothes I had.

6) Shirts: also in this case I have some shirts that now I use only on weekends. My advice is not to exaggerate with stripes and checks; play with patterns, checks and stripes but always staying in the small or medium size.

7) Ties: never too big designs, especially if the jacket is single-breasted. The double-breasted allows a little more because being closed often tends to bring you towards sobriety even if you wear something strong. But do not abuse it. Also in this case the ties I wore 12 years ago are in the drawer of memories. And I don't even propose them to my clients anymore.

8) Socks: I prefer solid colors or small patterns. The only eccentric concession I allow myself is the plain red sock, maybe on a suede shoe. I would never wear socks with big designs.

9) Shoes: here my friend Freccia Bestetti always told me that the darker shades always win and at any time. In fact, he only allowed me one pair of two-tone dark brown and whiskey shoes. But nothing more. Maybe it goes without saying but never use light shoes in the evening, even if they are bespoke and beautiful.

10) Don't care what you wear: this is the only way to be naturally elegant. The dress must be your submissive victim. Yes, because if it prevails over you, making you feel like a prisoner inside, it's over for you on the outside. The risk of being plastered in public is just around the corner. And that can curb your elegance and your perceived poise to the outside eye.

11) If you're a dandy, you can afford anything. Your great personality will lead you to uniqueness.​

I'm amazed he is still in existence
 

Pimpernel Smith

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I love drawstring trousers. I thought you meant actual sweatpants
They are an attempt at a curious casual and formal hybrid, but ultimately it's lounge wear, For €555 a go. I can that look at Uniqlo for €34.90.
Johnny Caccaruti gives style tips

View attachment 41921J



I made several mistakes early on in my journey down the road to elegance. But what are the mistakes I wouldn't make again?

1) Trouser width: I will no longer make them too tight; the pants must be well proportioned with the length of the shoe.

2) Trouser length: I won't make them too short anymore; otherwise in Italy they say you have water in the house like in Venice! Never show ankle and shoe 100% in its entirety. The pants must reach the shoe. It can arrive in a traditional way until it almost touches the heel or stay between the ankle and the shoe, without showing too much of the sock.

3) The colors worn: too many are excessive. Maximum three. And possibly not too garish. In fact I have some pants that I don't dare to wear anymore. They disgust me!

5) the size and proportions of lapels: never lapels that end almost behind the back, so high they are. And never too wide. They must be proportionate to the person. Maximum 12 cm. And even on this point I made some youthful mistakes. Result? I no longer wear those exaggerated clothes I had.

6) Shirts: also in this case I have some shirts that now I use only on weekends. My advice is not to exaggerate with stripes and checks; play with patterns, checks and stripes but always staying in the small or medium size.

7) Ties: never too big designs, especially if the jacket is single-breasted. The double-breasted allows a little more because being closed often tends to bring you towards sobriety even if you wear something strong. But do not abuse it. Also in this case the ties I wore 12 years ago are in the drawer of memories. And I don't even propose them to my clients anymore.

8) Socks: I prefer solid colors or small patterns. The only eccentric concession I allow myself is the plain red sock, maybe on a suede shoe. I would never wear socks with big designs.

9) Shoes: here my friend Freccia Bestetti always told me that the darker shades always win and at any time. In fact, he only allowed me one pair of two-tone dark brown and whiskey shoes. But nothing more. Maybe it goes without saying but never use light shoes in the evening, even if they are bespoke and beautiful.

10) Don't care what you wear: this is the only way to be naturally elegant. The dress must be your submissive victim. Yes, because if it prevails over you, making you feel like a prisoner inside, it's over for you on the outside. The risk of being plastered in public is just around the corner. And that can curb your elegance and your perceived poise to the outside eye.

11) If you're a dandy, you can afford anything. Your great personality will lead you to uniqueness.​
A lot of rules there, he clearly had an issue with ''big designs.''
 

doghouse

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They are an attempt at a curious casual and formal hybrid, but ultimately it's lounge wear, For €555 a go. I can that look at Uniqlo for €34.90.

A lot of rules there, he clearly had an issue with ''big designs.''
Yeah but then you are wearing Uniqlo
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Yeah but then you are wearing Uniqlo
But you can spill all kinds of stuff over a pair of Uniqlo pants at that price, the T&A less so. I would only wear that stuff around the house. Maybe to take the bottles to the recycling.

Uniqlo's good at certain things. The socks are superb. The extra fine merino jumpers fit into that in-between Autumn and winter 10-15C. Light, probably only last one season but are ideal for that two months before winter hits and you need something more woolly.
 

Sauce

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Say two days a week, over two months is 16 days, throw in another another week for good measure. So thats 23 days and you bin them? Lets say their a tenner. If I spend £100 on a sweater I'd be expecting to get 230 days wear out of it.
 

robertito

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Say two days a week, over two months is 16 days, throw in another another week for good measure. So thats 23 days and you bin them? Lets say their a tenner. If I spend £100 on a sweater I'd be expecting to get 230 days wear out of it.
+ 1,000
John Smedley are thin as well., Cost over 100 quid as last as long as Uniqlo.

I don't agree with the comment that uniqlo last a season or less anyway. I had two merinos and will last as much as the smedleys i have.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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John Smedley are thin as well., Cost over 100 quid as last as long as Uniqlo.

I don't agree with the comment that uniqlo last a season or less anyway. I had two merinos and will last as much as the smedleys i have.
I don't actually have reference to how long they will last, but at that price I expect there may be a catch on the longevity compared to more expensive makes. The fit is spot on, exactly the same as the Dutch sized William Lockie.
 

Sauce

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+ 1,000
John Smedley are thin as well., Cost over 100 quid as last as long as Uniqlo.

I don't agree with the comment that uniqlo last a season or less anyway. I had two merinos and will last as much as the smedleys i have.
Smedley is great when you buy it but goes to shit way to soon for the money. I've had thicker sweaters by them that have been ok though. Another crap brand for thin knitwear is Paul Smith. Great in the shop but goes to shit real quick.

I have three Sea Island polo shirts by Attolini and they have washed fantastic and are still going strong, must have had them 5 summer seasons.

I find the entire concept of disposable clothing abhorrent. Disposable anything really.

Same. I'm thankful that I have an income level where I don't have to enter H&M, Zara, Primark ect. I think a lot of people that shop in those places don't really have to, they are sucked into the cycle of buying shite to please their addiction to consumerism.
 

doghouse

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I think a lot of people that shop in those places don't really have to, they are sucked into the cycle of buying shite to please their addiction to consumerism.

100%. It's honestly a huge ethical issue. Dana Thomas' latest book Fashionopolis is a pretty sobering read in some ways. It doesn't say anything particularly profound, but it brings a lot of these practices into pretty stark relief.

I'm hyper anti-consumerist by nature anyway, just seeing our What Did You Buy Today thread gives me the willies, but just from a rational standpoint it's clearly a big fucking problem with our species.
 

Great White Snark

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I find the entire concept of disposable clothing abhorrent. Disposable anything really.
Exactly.
The amount of times I’ve been in a discussion, someone has said they have a wedding or a funeral coming up. I try to say every man should have at least one good suit for these occasions even if they’re not really committed to clothing and the response is almost always something like “Oh I’ll just get a suit from [insert cheap shit brand here] and dump it after the occasion”.
 

Journeyman

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'm hyper anti-consumerist by nature anyway, just seeing our What Did You Buy Today thread gives me the willies, but just from a rational standpoint it's clearly a big fucking problem with our species.

Absolutely. I know that we've discussed this issue over the years, but social media and discussion fora (clothes, watches, shoes, other consumables) really exacerbates things. It plays into our need to keep up with other people, to have what other people have, to keep on acquiring things.

I've lost count of the number of times that someone has started with Allen Edmonds or Loakes shoes and then, within six months, moved on to purchasing Edward Green, JL Paris or St Crispins. Or, in watch terms, been happy with Citizen or Seiko but in short order decided they "need" multiple Rolex models and start telling everyone their "grail" is Patek Philippe.
 

Walter

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Johnny Caccaruti gives style tips

View attachment 41921J



I made several mistakes early on in my journey down the road to elegance. But what are the mistakes I wouldn't make again?

1) Trouser width: I will no longer make them too tight; the pants must be well proportioned with the length of the shoe.

2) Trouser length: I won't make them too short anymore; otherwise in Italy they say you have water in the house like in Venice! Never show ankle and shoe 100% in its entirety. The pants must reach the shoe. It can arrive in a traditional way until it almost touches the heel or stay between the ankle and the shoe, without showing too much of the sock.

3) The colors worn: too many are excessive. Maximum three. And possibly not too garish. In fact I have some pants that I don't dare to wear anymore. They disgust me!

5) the size and proportions of lapels: never lapels that end almost behind the back, so high they are. And never too wide. They must be proportionate to the person. Maximum 12 cm. And even on this point I made some youthful mistakes. Result? I no longer wear those exaggerated clothes I had.

6) Shirts: also in this case I have some shirts that now I use only on weekends. My advice is not to exaggerate with stripes and checks; play with patterns, checks and stripes but always staying in the small or medium size.

7) Ties: never too big designs, especially if the jacket is single-breasted. The double-breasted allows a little more because being closed often tends to bring you towards sobriety even if you wear something strong. But do not abuse it. Also in this case the ties I wore 12 years ago are in the drawer of memories. And I don't even propose them to my clients anymore.

8) Socks: I prefer solid colors or small patterns. The only eccentric concession I allow myself is the plain red sock, maybe on a suede shoe. I would never wear socks with big designs.

9) Shoes: here my friend Freccia Bestetti always told me that the darker shades always win and at any time. In fact, he only allowed me one pair of two-tone dark brown and whiskey shoes. But nothing more. Maybe it goes without saying but never use light shoes in the evening, even if they are bespoke and beautiful.

10) Don't care what you wear: this is the only way to be naturally elegant. The dress must be your submissive victim. Yes, because if it prevails over you, making you feel like a prisoner inside, it's over for you on the outside. The risk of being plastered in public is just around the corner. And that can curb your elegance and your perceived poise to the outside eye.

11) If you're a dandy, you can afford anything. Your great personality will lead you to uniqueness.​
Thruth Thruth what's with the missing "4)" ?
 
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