Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

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Intended savings on the jacket out the window and materials wasted. Irrc his tailor is fairly competent.

Hedi Rochowanski, one of the youngest tailors in Vienna, trained at Maurice Sedwell, IIRC.

Good work at reasonable rates, which cannot be said for much of the rest of Viennese tailors.



 
He is the elite big daddy of SWD now. You are just not advanced enough to be able to appreciate the complexity and genius of his art, he would argue (sneeringly).
Is there a thread where he explains/defends/attacks haters/details how he spent a couple thousand dollars having the t shirts hand printed by blind virgin eunuchs in some remote island off the coast of Japan?
 
No, I mean over on the other site. He will usually have concocted a complex, self-perceived-as-sophisticated and often ridiculous narrative when he adopts these new styles
I think we linked to some of his most memorable posts in that thread
 
I think we linked to some of his most memorable posts in that thread

So specifically this new look apparently starts here:

a cursory checks indicates

the shirts are ~$350

the jeans are ~$1200

and more or less the same for the boots
 
So specifically this new look apparently starts here:

a cursory checks indicates

the shirts are ~$350

the jeans are ~$1200

and more or less the same for the boots

And indeed there's like 10 pages of Foo attempting to justify the ridiculousness. Time for some popcorn.
 
And indeed there's like 10 pages of Foo attempting to justify the ridiculousness. Time for some popcorn.
I particularly enjoyed this one:

The problem is not who makes what you wear, it's how you understand it (more precisely, how you don't understand it), how you wear it, and how you talk about how you wear it. You can wear whatever: if you want to look like a slightly embarrassing background extra in an Interpol video then have it, you rock and roll animal. But you are mostly wearing a single designer's house style, and calling it streetwear, and it isn't; and you are calling it urban without indicating any understanding of the full dimensions of the term, restricting it to detritus of the cosplay Just Kids era; and by doing this you are erasing a lot of stuff, some of the most important parts of which are racialized. When you take up arms for streetwear and you mean Hedi you sound ignorant, using a word entirely at odds with what they are taken to mean by most people who talk about clothes. Streetwear is a lot of things, but it's basically always had wide pants (bar like a 10 year stretch post GFC, and I can still remember the relief on the faces of certain clothing store owners when they realized they could embrace the big hoody and loose khaki thing again circa 2018), it's always been Nikes and Ivy and skate and surf and milsurp repurposed, by Black kids and West Coast stoners and Japanese ex-punks with exquisite attunement to the world around them, and it was always eclectic and boho and non-uniform. The 70s CBGBs thing was always a pretty submerged (often entirely absent) piece of that mix, a silhouette much more likely to be invoked thru relatives like mod or English punk (and post punky designer stream stuff like some of the Antwerp Six, but even then it starts to feel gallery rather than corner).

It's also deeply sad that you think that this playing dress up has some kind of, I don't know, grativas? connection to place? whatever word allows me to avoid using the term authenticity? to it. Like, you do not dress NYC, you are wearing high end boutique **** that evokes a small corner of a mined out and diminished era of the city, repackaged and sold with markup after markup after markup. Precious recreations of revival clothes are not rocking the boulevard, winklepickers are not setting the roof on fire, and clothing you can't move freely in is not urban. You could own it as boutique stuff, as the play clothes of men who have money to spend, and it would be at least somewhat respectable on those terms, but you invoke the Metrocard while driving a Porsche. It lacks taste in terms of suitability, of coherence with the environment, of harmony with the actual history of clothing. It's closer to Steampunk bro cosplay than it is to streetwear, or rocker ****, or the urban environment, or whatever you else you invoke. Even when you get the pieces precisely right, the whole is always less than the sum of its parts.

So: it's depressing seeing you wear clothes, as you have no feel for the costume you wear. But it is worse reading you justifying what you wear. The Styleforum shuffle of someone posting bad fits and spending pages arguing for them being good actually is bad enough when it's someone new to taking clothing more seriously. It is so much sadder when they have been doing this for nearly two decades, currently working in a narrow style strongly defined by a specific designer, with almost unlimited funds. Every fit still bricks, each needs a ferocious defense, and you are always misunderstood. The whole thing diminishes everyone that it touches.
 
Is there a thread where he explains/defends/attacks haters/details how he spent a couple thousand dollars having the t shirts hand printed by blind virgin eunuchs in some remote island off the coast of Japan?

Daily. He gets roasted more on SWD than he did on MC. His fucked up poses garner beaucoup hate
 
One of the best lines was someone threatening they needed to post a fit to show him how to do everything correctly.
 
Yeah, you just have to read the right thread. He no longer is about many hand passes giaccas but $400 ugly tee shirts.

He also chooses JM Weston boots for his cutting edge streetwear look.

Loved the whole "I dress in line with my environment"... the fucker works for Jefferies in midtown. It's Bro City. He was out of place with his suits, and he's out of place now. Kakis, white shirt and patagonia vest is his environment.
 
So specifically this new look apparently starts here:

a cursory checks indicates

the shirts are ~$350

the jeans are ~$1200

and more or less the same for the boots
Jesus fucking Christ almighty.
$1200 for a pair of jeggings?
He could have flown to Naples and had his fella tailor some wool pants for that, at risk of being called an “oval headed dwarf” of course!)
 
Two recent posts in SF MC what are you wearing today casual. Same components. One disagreeable, one agreeable. One should have considered posting in WAYWT (Schlub)

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Versus:

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Loved the whole "I dress in line with my environment"... the fucker works for Jefferies in midtown. It's Bro City. He was out of place with his suits, and he's out of place now. Kakis, white shirt and patagonia vest is his environment.
+100. he is the consummate poser. I can't even remember when I last wore a tee shirt in public, let alone a printed one. and it is incredibly strange he started wearing big chains when he created his vision of streetwear.
 
That dude on top never seems to realise how much his baggy clothes make him look like a pear shaped schlub. What miracles a few $$ and a visit to a competent seamstress could do for him.

And worth noting that the bottom fit isn’t exactly slim - just properly tailored for his body shape.
 
That dude on top never seems to realise how much his baggy clothes make him look like a pear shaped schlub. What miracles a few $$ and a visit to a competent seamstress could do for him.
Indeed. He posted he considered wearing a tie with that outfit. In the time to consider that he should have ironed his chinos.
 
Jesus fucking Christ almighty.
$1200 for a pair of jeggings?
He could have flown to Naples and had his fella tailor some wool pants for that, at risk of being called an “oval headed dwarf” of course!)
That's the name of his streetwearing streetgang in The Warriors - 'The Oval-Headed Dwarves'.

The Orphans kick his ass.
 
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Yeah, you just have to read the right thread. He no longer is about many hand passes giaccas but $400 ugly tee shirts.

He also chooses JM Weston boots for his cutting edge streetwear look.


Inmature and Cluster B people are that way, unstable as a classic Italian/English sports car.

Cluster B disorders are marked by inappropriate, volatile emotionality and often unpredictable behavior. The disorders in Cluster B are antisocial personality disorder, borderline personality disorder, histrionic personality disorder, and narcissistic personality disorder.
 
Post-Pandemic Era: formalwear is out and everyone is dressing more casually
Every Single Menswear Influencer: I just replaced my tie and shirt with a denim/chambray work shirt





 
Yeah, Peter just got off a plane wearing chambray, denim and a giacca. But it looks the best of the three. I last wore a giacca with jeans in 1992.

OMG, chalk stripe flannel is a heritage cloth now? It’s not for advanced dressers anymore? Or anyone who knows anything about dressing well? So I should wear the most unflattering SWD-styled one of the bunch chambray shirt to re-energize my flannel DBs. Phew. Of course it should be Bryceland. Cognitive dissonance.

Mossrocks looks ok. Style of shirt goes with the giacca. But his style MO = boring HS biology teacher at a middling private school. He had to be a wallflower at the Cucinelli event.
 

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