florisgreen
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Very nice, especially the ones with apron. I'm not a horse lover, but they are certainly beautiful shoes, quite more elegant than some chunky Aldens.
florisgreen
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She?
The Shooman
A Pretty Face
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Church raise their prices ~50%. Custom Grade moved from €570 to €830
News - Church's raise their prices with ~50% - Shoegazing.com
The British brand Church's has raised their prices with approximately 40-50% across the board of their entire offerings. Over one night a pair of theirshoegazing.com
Instead of doubling their prices on the same shoes and risking alienating their customer base, why don't they put out a higher end stylish line of shoes instead. I think they are hiring too many university students who are wet behind the ears....full of theories but no life experience. Pthh.
Enrile
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Shell Cordovan en español anca de potro
florisgreen
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Ah, okay. Have you a website?
florisgreen
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Enrile Sevilla?
sirloin
Well-Known Member
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The Business Econ argument could be percieved differentiation, and thus allow sale of their cheaper models (with a presumed higher margin) to grow. Jeez.
Pimpernel Smith
Tone Deaf Daddy
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Or they need a higher margin based on reduced sales, knowing that a core demographic will pay the extra price.
For sure, down at the McArthur Glenn Cheshire Oaks Outlet Village, they'll be less than half that price.
Enrile
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florisgreen
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Gracias!
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Carl Murkowski is raving about this South African brand for cheap well made summer boots:
Construction sounds way better than Clark’s or Blindestone. Too bad they don’t do wide sizes.
Construction sounds way better than Clark’s or Blindestone. Too bad they don’t do wide sizes.
florisgreen
Well-Known Member
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I found that old catalogue, well, I was wrong: it's the Consul and the Grafton that were offered in three different leather options, being Polished Binder, Nevada Calf and Shell Cordovan (called Crup by Church's). The Shannon was only offered in Polished Binder and Crup, but it's well possible that in the past there were more choices. Two examples of Grafton (cordovan) and Consul (nevada):
robertito
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I have the same ones!! bought from somebody Styleforum like 8 years. They were news, i don't think they were ever used. They are pre-Prada. Excellent shoe. The leather is full dyed aniline, no crust or crap like that. The tongue is stitched on the side (not at the bottom) and the lining is cloth, not leather.
I am looking for the same model in black but I would only buy NOS from ebay, every now and them the pop up in the bay. No rush.
florisgreen
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The Consul is a very nice model, elegant and classic, the quintessential English shoe. I like them much, I even had them years ago, but unfortunately Church's lasts don't fit me well, so I sold them all.
Yes, you are right: so much better the old aniline dyed calf with its nice uniform colour instead of the patinated crust so in vogue nowadays.
Sammy Ambrose
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On the off chance that there are not only Big Shoo Papas on here, I would be intersted to know posters' thoughts on caring for poiished binder. For any lurking iGents, binder is corrected grain.
Nick V. used to champion Venetian Cream and Leatherman, on the advice of Church, straight wax.
The 10 year old Barker Clive I have on right now, which are as new, used to get Kiwied regularly, but these days they just get a high-speed brushing.
Nick V. used to champion Venetian Cream and Leatherman, on the advice of Church, straight wax.
The 10 year old Barker Clive I have on right now, which are as new, used to get Kiwied regularly, but these days they just get a high-speed brushing.
florisgreen
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Quite surprised to read that your Barkers are as new. The reason is that the polished binder is highly prone to crack. Besides its plastic, glossy look, which I don't like, it's undoubtedly a less worthy material, as shown by the fact that no high range producer offers it. I had years ago some pairs in polished binder (from Prada) and they all cracked where the foot bends. This material is much processed so the leather doesn't react to caring. I have a limited experience with it, but I certainly wouldn't recommend to anybody to buy shoes in this leather.
Here a good article:
https://theshoesnobblog.com/bookbinder-leather-dont-be-fooled/
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Sammy Ambrose
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I have three pairs of polished: Barker, Loake and Cheaney. None have cracked. All are worn regularly. The Cheaney and the Loake are 14 years old,
florisgreen
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Good for you, but my judgement doesn't change: beside the doubts expressed about the quality, the glossy look doesn't appeal to me. Of course you can and will disagree, as always it's a matter of taste.
H
Halberstram
Guest
Just pulled the trigger on my first pairs of Vass a couple of days ago for a good price. I’m childishly happy for their arrival. 
Has anyone experience with the sizing compared to C&J? I wear a 10 in all C&J - the 72EX last (loafer; fits like a glove), the 341 (fits perfect as well; noticed that after a few years the shoes have started to lose shape a little) and 236. Vass recommended a 44 to me.
Interesting note: I blindly ordered two pairs in 45 at first, accompanied by a mail by me which size they believe would be right. Vass then recommended 44. However, the shoes on sale were not available in 44. Vass then offered to actually make a pair in 44 to me for the sale price. For the other pair, they offered to take a look around the shop to see what Oxford they have in 44 - then chose an Alt English in walnut museum calf which was listed at 559€ sold to me for the sale price of 279€.
Great customer service by Vass! I am looking forward to visiting their Budapest shop soon!
Has anyone experience with the sizing compared to C&J? I wear a 10 in all C&J - the 72EX last (loafer; fits like a glove), the 341 (fits perfect as well; noticed that after a few years the shoes have started to lose shape a little) and 236. Vass recommended a 44 to me.
Interesting note: I blindly ordered two pairs in 45 at first, accompanied by a mail by me which size they believe would be right. Vass then recommended 44. However, the shoes on sale were not available in 44. Vass then offered to actually make a pair in 44 to me for the sale price. For the other pair, they offered to take a look around the shop to see what Oxford they have in 44 - then chose an Alt English in walnut museum calf which was listed at 559€ sold to me for the sale price of 279€.
Great customer service by Vass! I am looking forward to visiting their Budapest shop soon!
The Shooman
A Pretty Face
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Some polished binder is very well done with a thin layer put over very high quality leather, and there should not be any reason for cracking. The cheaper polished binder is stiffer and different, so premature cracking may be a problem.
Silvano Lattanzi has offered polished binder in his bespoke shoes (can't find the picture right now), and l think John Lobb has also offered it. If done well it can be good, however it is difficult to get scuffs out.
Using creams on grain corrected leather is good. Brings them up nice again and those little fine cracks get moisturised. It is interesting how a heavy wax or polished binder stops shoes from drying out on the surface.
The Shooman
A Pretty Face
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Just pulled the trigger on my first pairs of Vass a couple of days ago for a good price. I’m childishly happy for their arrival.
Has anyone experience with the sizing compared to C&J? I wear a 10 in all C&J - the 72EX last (loafer; fits like a glove), the 341 (fits perfect as well; noticed that after a few years the shoes have started to lose shape a little) and 236. Vass recommended a 44 to me.
You are very lucky to be owning Vass. You are childishly happy about the arrival of Vass for very good reason. It will be a day to celebrate, so l hope you have the champagne ready. Make a night of it. Having a good shoo come in is always an EVENT!
A 44 should work. A 45 would have been too big.
florisgreen
Well-Known Member
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Yes, definitely a very customer-friendly service.Just pulled the trigger on my first pairs of Vass a couple of days ago for a good price. I’m childishly happy for their arrival.
Has anyone experience with the sizing compared to C&J? I wear a 10 in all C&J - the 72EX last (loafer; fits like a glove), the 341 (fits perfect as well; noticed that after a few years the shoes have started to lose shape a little) and 236. Vass recommended a 44 to me.
Interesting note: I blindly ordered two pairs in 45 at first, accompanied by a mail by me which size they believe would be right. Vass then recommended 44. However, the shoes on sale were not available in 44. Vass then offered to actually make a pair in 44 to me for the sale price. For the other pair, they offered to take a look around the shop to see what Oxford they have in 44 - then chose an Alt English in walnut museum calf which was listed at 559€ sold to me for the sale price of 279€.
Great customer service by Vass! I am looking forward to visiting their Budapest shop soon!
Thruth
Big Winter Daddy
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The 45 most likely would have been too big. Vass usually fit TTS but depending on the last could be an up or down of 1/2 size. As an example, the u last is 1/2 up in size for most.Just pulled the trigger on my first pairs of Vass a couple of days ago for a good price. I’m childishly happy for their arrival.
Has anyone experience with the sizing compared to C&J? I wear a 10 in all C&J - the 72EX last (loafer; fits like a glove), the 341 (fits perfect as well; noticed that after a few years the shoes have started to lose shape a little) and 236. Vass recommended a 44 to me.
Interesting note: I blindly ordered two pairs in 45 at first, accompanied by a mail by me which size they believe would be right. Vass then recommended 44. However, the shoes on sale were not available in 44. Vass then offered to actually make a pair in 44 to me for the sale price. For the other pair, they offered to take a look around the shop to see what Oxford they have in 44 - then chose an Alt English in walnut museum calf which was listed at 559€ sold to me for the sale price of 279€.
Great customer service by Vass! I am looking forward to visiting their Budapest shop soon!
H
Halberstram
Guest
I would like to discuss something which is rarely discussed in menswear fora: Braided leather shoes.
Braided oxfords, derbies and loafers have been very popular in the Europe of the 1950’s-1970’s. I feel like they have fallen out of trend somewhere in the 80’s and have not regained popularity ever since.
What is your opinion on this?
Here are some examples of noteworthy shoes of this quality.
Those are Vass and Barbanera:
Braided oxfords, derbies and loafers have been very popular in the Europe of the 1950’s-1970’s. I feel like they have fallen out of trend somewhere in the 80’s and have not regained popularity ever since.
What is your opinion on this?
Here are some examples of noteworthy shoes of this quality.
Those are Vass and Barbanera:
The Shooman
A Pretty Face
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I recently bought Vass braided shoes, I have wanted a pair for years. Are they worth it? Probably not, there are nicer styles around. The Vass braided shoes are still fully lined, so not as cool in hot weather like l thought they might have been, but they still make for a nice casual style that is very smart. You don't see those types of shoes much anymore. I am still glad l bought them, they make for a nice change.
florisgreen
Well-Known Member
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Church's is offering the Shannon in suede, maybe a good alternative to the polished binder:
florisgreen
Well-Known Member
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As well as mens sandals this style was usual in summer in the 60s and 70s of the past century. Today they're practically disappeared, except for being a classic at Bottega Veneta. Not a fan of it.
sirloin
Well-Known Member
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H
Halberstram
Guest
The way a shoe looks depends not least on the palpable spirit of the man who is wearing them.
Grand Potentate
Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
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For some reason I always think of old spanish men in guayabara shirts and hats wearing these types of shoes. i've never in my life seen a pair in the wild that wasn't on someone who wasn't in that sort of outfit.
Thruth
Big Winter Daddy
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Made me monks more mahogany
The Shooman
A Pretty Face
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Funny enough Rambo, l wear them with my guayabara shirts.
sirloin
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I have seen a summer model, both from Ludwig Reiter and Vass, fully punched with holes all over the body. Have always liked that one. Though not sure how I’d wear it.
The Shooman
A Pretty Face
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I like those too. The holes obviously make it a summer shoe, and the black make it more formal and not something so suitable for daytime wear in the summer. It would obviously need to be an evening shoe worn with a more casual summer suit or summer sportscoat.
Not such a big fan of the Vass model.
however these are better, but not daytime shoes.
I know Formby would say they are pig ugly, but he has very specific tastes.
sirloin
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I like the light brown. Advanced, that's for sure.
The Shooman
A Pretty Face
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BIG news in the U.K rtw shoo world
Gaziano & Girling are now making a completely handmade shoe for the rtw market. Built exactly like bespoke with all the fancy features on a stock last. Available via special order. Don't know the price, but would have to start at about $5,000 wouldn't it.
Talks about it after 1:03:28
Don't know the prices, but l shall email G&G and ask.
Gaziano & Girling are now making a completely handmade shoe for the rtw market. Built exactly like bespoke with all the fancy features on a stock last. Available via special order. Don't know the price, but would have to start at about $5,000 wouldn't it.
Talks about it after 1:03:28
Don't know the prices, but l shall email G&G and ask.
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H
Halberstram
Guest
How one can possibly choose punch-holed shoes over braided leather ones is as logical to me as communism.
florisgreen
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Good news. The price looks however rather steep, if you consider that they save all costs involved with a bespoke shoe, such as different fittings and fitting pairs. To me it could be a nice option at $3,000.
florisgreen
Well-Known Member
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I can't say they're ugly, but neither they appeal to me. The braided shoes are certainly nicer and more stylish. I'm also rather sceptical about the functional aspect.
The Shooman
A Pretty Face
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John Lobb Paris put out a fully handmade limited edition last year which sold for $5,000 a pair.
The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread
you can see his progression into Daddyism in the pics: https://instagram.com/renavgoodsco?igshid=6vu4gwyhav0b
www.dressedwell.net
Gaziano & Girling should be cheaper. $4,000 for a pair would be reasonable for English shoes, $3,000 would be amazing. I've emailed G&G, so lets see what they say.