The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

[The Shooman]

Vass selling a nice crocodile shoo for about $3,400 ASD, really good value.

Ascot shoes used to sell them for about $15,000 ASD (10,000 USD). A massive markup per pair.

 

[Dropbear]

Vass selling a nice crocodile shoo for about $3,400 ASD, really good value.

Ascot shoes used to sell them for about $15,000 ASD (10,000 USD). A massive markup per pair.
View attachment 48809

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

Vass selling a nice crocodile shoo for about $3,400 ASD, really good value.

Ascot shoes used to sell them for about $15,000 ASD (10,000 USD). A massive markup per pair.
View attachment 48809

The currency code is AUD, Shooey. Get that right or you might end up paying even more when you import.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

Vass selling a nice crocodile shoo for about $3,400 ASD, really good value.

Ascot shoes used to sell them for about $15,000 ASD (10,000 USD). A massive markup per pair.
View attachment 48809

What do you reckon to these? $7,000 AUD. ELEPHANT HIDE Ascot Shoes

 

[The Shooman]

Have never liked elephant hide shoes

 

[Grand Potentate]

What do you reckon to these? $7,000 AUD. ELEPHANT HIDE Ascot Shoes View attachment 48810View attachment 48811

if you wear those you should be legally allowed to get beaten up.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

if you wear those you should be legally allowed to get beaten up.

Shooey and I are lucky then. Shooey doesn't like elephant hide and Sammy can't afford it.

 

[The Shooman]

Thruth remember we have a conversation recently about bespoke shoes and whether it is worth it. Here is a good post that addresses this.

The Bespoke Shoes Thread

For a first bespoke Oxford, what should I do? I have these rtw that fit pretty well when laced. The laces do a decent job holding my feet in (I have narrow heels, so on loafers they slip). I have experimented with heel pads on the black cap toe oxfords, which helped a little bit, but I find...

www.styleforum.net

 

[Enrile]

I was talking about this in a Spanish forum a few years ago.
I no longer make bespoke shoes
"I made this decision based on experience and observation. Not only my experience, but also that of other colleagues.

Keep in mind that for a measurement I made a test shoe or even two, so the cost was much higher than today. Then the most dangerous thing came into play, the subjectivity of the fit, because what for some may be perfect... for others may be terrible (being the same fit). It has happened to me with a test shoe that the client tells me that they fit perfectly (and I also see them as perfect) and when we have assembled the final shoe, well, they have felt it was big or small... so for me this system is not viable.

I leave a couple of articles about two bloggers, one of them tells about his custom experience with one of the most respected shoemakers in the trade and whom he undoubtedly considers a master.
http://www.claymoorslist.com/portfol...17254638671875 And in this other one Berndhar tells us what the bespoke experience was like in the past, perhaps the concept in our heads has changed and we expect "something else" from a bespoke shoe.
https://der-feine-herr.blog/2018/03/...er-massschuhe/ I also clarify VerdeGabán's comment, I do not "touch" my lasts systematically. They are very well thought out lasts and provide a good fit due to the variety of options they present, however when you make several pairs for a person, from the previous ones and the sensations you can extract valuable information that can be applied to the lasts.

For me, at least today. The key to my shoes is not only in their fit, but in the way they are built, which involves all the tradition and materials used in a traditional custom shoe, and therefore its very quality, as well as in the customization (since it is still a shoe made for each client by order).

Any clarification do not hesitate to ask, I love to talk about the trade."

Enrile

 

[Thruth]

Thruth remember we have a conversation recently about bespoke shoes and whether it is worth it. Here is a good post that addresses this.

The Bespoke Shoes Thread

For a first bespoke Oxford, what should I do? I have these rtw that fit pretty well when laced. The laces do a decent job holding my feet in (I have narrow heels, so on loafers they slip). I have experimented with heel pads on the black cap toe oxfords, which helped a little bit, but I find...

www.styleforum.net

our old friend, Son of Saphir, sums it up well.

“Is bespoke worth it? To me it is all about styling and being hand constructed, and the materials. If one can find that in rtw there is no need for bespoke. Great rtw satisfies me. There are some shoes wanted that can't be had in rtw, but we can't have everything we want.”

I can find handconstructed without bespoke. I don’t need styling and materials that cannot be found outside of bespoke.

To be honest, the best part of the bespoke process, was meeting Dominic Casey and having a conversation that was not all about shoos. That would have happened had I found a pair of RTW shoos that fit amongst all the samples he brought. I just would not have had the added conversations with the bespoke fittings.

Plus, being sent to the wrong suite for my fitting which turned out to be the boys from Huntsman. I talked to them for an hour after they rang Dominic and told him I would be late. Had my fitting and we all had dinner later.

After custom cowboy boots and single strap monk boots on modified stock lasts, that is enough fit and I had endless options. Hand constructed from scratch.

Someone suggests a swan neck Oxford to the OP. Not seen much in RTW or MTO they say. No one mentions the Vass River wholecut swan neck, which still represents value for handcrafted MTO shoos.

Horses for courses. YMMV.

 

[Thruth]

I was talking about this in a Spanish forum a few years ago.
I no longer make bespoke shoes
"I made this decision based on experience and observation. Not only my experience, but also that of other colleagues.

Keep in mind that for a measurement I made a test shoe or even two, so the cost was much higher than today. Then the most dangerous thing came into play, the subjectivity of the fit, because what for some may be perfect... for others may be terrible (being the same fit). It has happened to me with a test shoe that the client tells me that they fit perfectly (and I also see them as perfect) and when we have assembled the final shoe, well, they have felt it was big or small... so for me this system is not viable.

I leave a couple of articles about two bloggers, one of them tells about his custom experience with one of the most respected shoemakers in the trade and whom he undoubtedly considers a master.
http://www.claymoorslist.com/portfol...17254638671875 And in this other one Berndhar tells us what the bespoke experience was like in the past, perhaps the concept in our heads has changed and we expect "something else" from a bespoke shoe.
https://der-feine-herr.blog/2018/03/...er-massschuhe/ I also clarify VerdeGabán's comment, I do not "touch" my lasts systematically. They are very well thought out lasts and provide a good fit due to the variety of options they present, however when you make several pairs for a person, from the previous ones and the sensations you can extract valuable information that can be applied to the lasts.

For me, at least today. The key to my shoes is not only in their fit, but in the way they are built, which involves all the tradition and materials used in a traditional custom shoe, and therefore its very quality, as well as in the customization (since it is still a shoe made for each client by order).

Any clarification do not hesitate to ask, I love to talk about the trade."

Enrile

Very well put.

The links are outdated. Claymoor’s was dead and for sale. And the other just would not open. Maybe it is just my connection

 

[kneeshuh]

My cobbler also makes bespoke shoes as part of his business, and I've had a similar conversation with him.

In his experience, there are three types of customers for bespoke shoes in the 21st century.

There is a tiny, tiny rest of "Establishment/old money" types, who have essentially inherited the tradition from their fathers or grandfathers, families who simply have always had things made and never really made the switch to RTW.

The next group are men upwards of ~35 who are buying bespoke shoes because they appreciate craftsmanship and the opportunity have something made entirely to their specifications.

The final group are people who require the services of an orthopaedic shoemaker, people with partial amputations of the foot as consequence of diabetes, people with arthritis or gout or some other deformation or malposition of the foot.

He says that no one apart from the last group really "needs" true bespoke shoes with the last carved from a solid block; and that most people would probably be better off with slight modifications made to standard lasts, things like instep height, width of the heel, etc, since that way the customer has a better chance of knowing what they will get and don't have to rely on a conversation with the shoemaker, who may interpret things differently than the customer.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

My cobbler also makes bespoke shoes as part of his business, and I've had a similar conversation with him.

In his experience, there are three types of customers for bespoke shoes in the 21st century.

There is a tiny, tiny rest of "Establishment/old money" types, who have essentially inherited the tradition from their fathers or grandfathers, families who simply have always had things made and never really made the switch to RTW.

The next group are men upwards of ~35 who are buying bespoke shoes because they appreciate craftsmanship and the opportunity have something made entirely to their specifications.

The final group are people who require the services of an orthopaedic shoemaker, people with partial amputations of the foot as consequence of diabetes, people with arthritis or gout or some other deformation or malposition of the foot.

He says that no one apart from the last group really "needs" true bespoke shoes with the last carved from a solid block; and that most people would probably be better off with slight modifications made to standard lasts, things like instep height, width of the heel, etc, since that way the customer has a better chance of knowing what they will get and don't have to rely on a conversation with the shoemaker, who may interpret things differently than the customer.

Very good perspective.

 

[The Shooman]

I want to get back to these posts above later on, good conversations.

For now l will post one of my new pairs, the buried shoe. The photos don't do justice to how stunning this shoe really is. I remember once seeing a vintage shoe that looked just like it with lots of different shades and nuances, and always wanting a shoe like that; this shoe looks exactly like that, and it is everything l have ever dreamed of.

Lattanzi buried shoos (much MUCH more stunning in person).

 

[The Shooman]

^^^

I would almost tempted to wear them into the Berluti boutique - "you think your shoes have patina??....you guys don't know what patina is" (show them my buried Lattanzi shoes and see their jaws drop to the ground). The patina eats up anything you have ever seen. The patina has to be seen to be believed, it looks natural. Lattanzi is the world patina expert with no comparison imo, and he NAILED IT!!! My camera cuts out most of the details, but in reality it looks like an 80 year old antiqued shoe.

Even some of the other patinas l have on my Lattanzi's, they are a complete work of art. That tan monk I own looks like old antiqued wood in real life, it has a beautiful warm glow that is stunning. That cognac derby is the same...has a natural patina that is breathtaking. But that buried shoe above, it is everything l have ever dreamed of, completely perfect!!! Lattanzi is an artistic shoo genius, and no-one comes close IMO.

 

[The Shooman]

You want to see the most luxurious shoo in the world? This could well be it, Lattanzi's flagship construction, the norvegese constructed shoe, but unlike most norvegese done by 95% of makers it is done properly. Even more unusual, the upper doesn't have the raw edge that is turned outward, instead the out turned upper is folded under itself (beef roll) and then stitched into the slipsole. Do you know how difficult it must be to do that?...few would ever dare to do that. It shows the workmanship of the maker is incredible, and he does it in an artistic way that is so elegant without making it clumsy at all.

This shoe is a work of art of the highest order, and no photos could ever do it justice. Even more so, the shoo is a pure pleasure to wear - it has a feeling no other shoo has, it is a dream experience to wear - a feeling one only dreams of. It has a nice meaty sole, but not too thick as to make it stiff, but thick enough that it makes for a nice Rolls Royce insulated ride while keeping the sole really flexible. This shoo is going to mold to my feet in an impeccable way, l can feel it straight away; l feel it might be because of the out turned upper used in Norvegse, but l can't be sure, but there must be a reason Lattazni's flagship constructions are Norvegese and Bentivegna. See...the feather of both constructions is placed on the edge of the insole, and l think it makes for a very luxurious ride when one wears shoes made like that instead of placing the feather inside the edge like one normally does. Added to this is the leather quality and natural antiquing the leather has, and we have a masterpiece of the highest order. You don't see hardly any shoes made like this one here.

I will talk more about the norvegese construction in the Lattanzi thread later on and post better pictures where some burgundy polish and wax has been added to the monk. This is not a fat boy like so many norvegese, it is a really elegant and sophisticated shoe. As soon as l saw this shoe l knew l was in the presence of greatness, and l had to have it no matter what. This is a highly advanced shoo.

Lattanzi norvegese

 

[güero]

That's all very impressive and it is surprising that this shoe apparently has a non-zero chance of the soles falling off after a couple of wears.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

You want to see the most luxurious shoo in the world? This could well be it, Lattanzi's flagship construction, the norvegese constructed shoe, but unlike most norvegese done by 95% of makers it is done properly. Even more unusual, the upper doesn't have the raw edge that is turned outward, instead the out turned upper is folded under itself (beef roll) and then stitched into the slipsole. Do you know how difficult it must be to do that?...few would ever dare to do that. It shows the workmanship of the maker is incredible, and he does it in an artistic way that is so elegant without making it clumsy at all.

This shoe is a work of art of the highest order, and no photos could ever do it justice. Even more so, the shoo is a pure pleasure to wear - it has a feeling no other shoo has, it is a dream experience to wear - a feeling one only dreams of. It has a nice meaty sole, but not too thick as to make it stiff, but thick enough that it makes for a nice Rolls Royce insulated ride while keeping the sole really flexible. This shoo is going to mold to my feet in an impeccable way, l can feel it straight away; l feel it might be because of the out turned upper used in Norvegse, but l can't be sure, but there must be a reason Lattazni's flagship constructions are Norvegese and Bentivegna. See...the feather of both constructions is placed on the edge of the insole, and l think it makes for a very luxurious ride when one wears shoes made like that instead of placing the feather inside the edge like one normally does. Added to this is the leather quality and natural antiquing the leather has, and we have a masterpiece of the highest order. You don't see hardly any shoes made like this one here.

I will talk more about the norvegese construction in the Lattanzi thread later on and post better pictures where some burgundy polish and wax has been added to the monk. This is not a fat boy like so many norvegese, it is a really elegant and sophisticated shoe. As soon as l saw this shoe l knew l was in the presence of greatness, and l had to have it no matter what. This is a highly advanced shoo.

Lattanzi norvegese
View attachment 48827
View attachment 48828

95% of makers don't construct norvegese properly. Wow! Why haven't they learnt after all these these years!

 

[Thruth]

You want to see the most luxurious shoo in the world? This could well be it, Lattanzi's flagship construction, the norvegese constructed shoe, but unlike most norvegese done by 95% of makers it is done properly. Even more unusual, the upper doesn't have the raw edge that is turned outward, instead the out turned upper is folded under itself (beef roll) and then stitched into the slipsole. Do you know how difficult it must be to do that?...few would ever dare to do that. It shows the workmanship of the maker is incredible, and he does it in an artistic way that is so elegant without making it clumsy at all.

This shoe is a work of art of the highest order, and no photos could ever do it justice. Even more so, the shoo is a pure pleasure to wear - it has a feeling no other shoo has, it is a dream experience to wear - a feeling one only dreams of. It has a nice meaty sole, but not too thick as to make it stiff, but thick enough that it makes for a nice Rolls Royce insulated ride while keeping the sole really flexible. This shoo is going to mold to my feet in an impeccable way, l can feel it straight away; l feel it might be because of the out turned upper used in Norvegse, but l can't be sure, but there must be a reason Lattazni's flagship constructions are Norvegese and Bentivegna. See...the feather of both constructions is placed on the edge of the insole, and l think it makes for a very luxurious ride when one wears shoes made like that instead of placing the feather inside the edge like one normally does. Added to this is the leather quality and natural antiquing the leather has, and we have a masterpiece of the highest order. You don't see hardly any shoes made like this one here.

I will talk more about the norvegese construction in the Lattanzi thread later on and post better pictures where some burgundy polish and wax has been added to the monk. This is not a fat boy like so many norvegese, it is a really elegant and sophisticated shoe. As soon as l saw this shoe l knew l was in the presence of greatness, and l had to have it no matter what. This is a highly advanced shoo.

Lattanzi norvegese
View attachment 48827
View attachment 48828

So there are 5% of shoomakers who do norvegese and do correctly like Lattanzi, eh?

the identity of those makers would be the big story, no?

 

[Enrile]

Very well put.

The links are outdated. Claymoor’s was dead and for sale. And the other just would not open. Maybe it is just my connection

Sorry, you're right, I hadn't realized this.
One of them tells how even his fourth or fifth pair of bespoke shoes with the same shoemaker were not perfect.
The other tells how the perception of a bespoke shoe has changed from 60 to 70 years ago until now. A customer today can often expect a shoe that fits like a glove, soft and comfortable.
Enrile

 

[Great White Snark]

So there are 5% of shoomakers who do norvegese and do correctly like Lattanzi, eh?

the identity of those makers would be the big story, no?

It’s almost like you are questioning the integrity of Shooman’s opinions-dressed-up-as-irrefutable-facts.
If it’s true he has hundreds of pairs then each pair if rotated evenly will get less than one wearing per year. Given the fact that he doesn’t appear to be a spring chicken and I’m sure has no offspring I wonder what will happen to this vast accumulation once Father Time has his way.
Most people reach a stage in life when they start downsizing their possessions but he appears to still be charging ahead full-on in acquisition mode. Something about “last ever pair” seems to have been quickly forgotten.

There was someone on SF - Kiton Brioni IIRC - who listed out his top tier clothing and shoes each day and died suddenly. Spoo didn’t exactly cover himself in glory swooping in like a vulture asking how he could get his hands on the departed’s gear either for personal use or to flog off on his webstore.

Has anyone here made plans for how to distribute their acquisitions once they shuffle off? We can’t take it with us!

 

[Thruth]

It’s almost like you are questioning the integrity of Shooman’s opinions-dressed-up-as-irrefutable-facts.
If it’s true he has hundreds of pairs then each pair if rotated evenly will get less than one wearing per year. Given the fact that he doesn’t appear to be a spring chicken and I’m sure has no offspring I wonder what will happen to this vast accumulation once Father Time has his way.
Most people reach a stage in life when they start downsizing their possessions but he appears to still be charging ahead full-on in acquisition mode. Something about “last ever pair” seems to have been quickly forgotten.

There was someone on SF - Kiton Brioni IIRC - who listed out his top tier clothing and shoes each day and died suddenly. Spoo didn’t exactly cover himself in glory swooping in like a vulture asking how he could get his hands on the departed’s gear either for personal use or to flog off on his webstore.

Has anyone here made plans for how to distribute their acquisitions once they shuffle off? We can’t take it with us!

Well, I’ve seen pics of these shoos a number of times. And, the norvegse is nicely done. But I expect to see comparators that are in this league and those aspiring to be. We don’t even get a Florsheim comparo!

I need to know if my norvegse shoos are up to snuff so I can sleep at night again.

 

[Dropbear]

Has anyone here made plans for how to distribute their acquisitions once they shuffle off? We can’t take it with us!

My best mate is getting my watch. In return, he’s deleting my browser history and other stuff on my phone.

 

[Thruth]

Has anyone here made plans for how to distribute their acquisitions once they shuffle off? We can’t take it with us!

I’m doing that now. Lots of clothing donations to Goodwill et al, shoo giveaways to needy students, and lots to be flogged online.

When I croak, I will have very little. Hopefully well before I kick.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

Sorry, you're right, I hadn't realized this.
One of them tells how even his fourth or fifth pair of bespoke shoes with the same shoemaker were not perfect.
The other tells how the perception of a bespoke shoe has changed from 60 to 70 years ago until now. A customer today can often expect a shoe that fits like a glove, soft and comfortable.
Enrile

From your posts and pics, everyone can be positive that any shoes produced by Enrile will be beautiful, perfect, designed for purpose and will indeed snugly and comfortably fit like a glove.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

It’s almost like you are questioning the integrity of Shooman’s opinions-dressed-up-as-irrefutable-facts.
If it’s true he has hundreds of pairs then each pair if rotated evenly will get less than one wearing per year. Given the fact that he doesn’t appear to be a spring chicken and I’m sure has no offspring I wonder what will happen to this vast accumulation once Father Time has his way.
Most people reach a stage in life when they start downsizing their possessions but he appears to still be charging ahead full-on in acquisition mode. Something about “last ever pair” seems to have been quickly forgotten.

There was someone on SF - Kiton Brioni IIRC - who listed out his top tier clothing and shoes each day and died suddenly. Spoo didn’t exactly cover himself in glory swooping in like a vulture asking how he could get his hands on the departed’s gear either for personal use or to flog off on his webstore.

Has anyone here made plans for how to distribute their acquisitions once they shuffle off? We can’t take it with us!

The notion of shoe-rotation doesn't apply to those such as Shooey who have truly mastered the art of shoe-buying and wearing for pleasure. It is more a case of: which of my art-works will I take pleasure in donning today.

 

[The Shooman]

I need to know if my norvegse shoos are up to snuff so I can sleep at night again.

If you posts photos of some of your norvegese l can let you know if they are up to snuff.

Enzo Bonaffi does it properly, but not many other makers do.

 

[The Shooman]

Norvegese - the real deal slow norvegese v's fast norvegese construction cheapness.​

Norvegese is supposed to waterproof a shoe with an out turned upper that is solidly secured,
but almost all norvegese shoes use wide stitches to attach the crucial points of the upper to the slipsole.

If wide stitches are used,
how can it keep the water out??
Most norvegese are done with little skill, and it is all for show.

Lattanzi is one of the few that does norvegese properly,
uses small stitches to maximally secure the out turned upper to the slipsole to minimize chance of water seeping in. He takes the extra time to do it right.

Lattanzi with the out turned upper stitched to the slipsole (sole underneath outsole).

Another Lattanzi norvegese - small stitches

St Cripins norvegese - wide stitches. All for show with little substance to the construction.

Paolo Scafora - wide stitches. All for show with little substance to the construction.

Stefano Branchini - medium wide stitch. All for show with little substance to the construction.

Bettanin and Venturi - medium wide stitch. All for show with little substance to the construction.

Sutor Mantelassi norvegese - wide stitches. All for show with little substance to the construction.

Stefanobi norvegese - wide stitches. All for show with little substance to the construction.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO norvegese - wide loose stitches (worst). Probably machine stitched

Bontoni norvegese - wide stitches

Santoni norvegese - wide stitches

See the point me make?
Lattanzi does the best norvegese by far.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

Norvegese - the real deal slow norvegese v's fast norvegese construction cheapness.​

Norvegese is supposed to waterproof a shoe with an out turned upper that is solidly secured,
but almost all norvegese shoes use wide stitches to attach the crucial points of the upper to the slipsole.

If wide stitches are used,
how can it keep the water out??
Most norvegese are done with little skill, and it is all for show.

Lattanzi is one of the few that does norvegese properly,
uses small stitches to maximally secure the out turned upper to the slipsole to minimize chance of water seeping in. He takes the extra time to do it right.

Lattanzi with the out turned upper stitched to the slipsole (sole underneath outsole).
View attachment 48832

Another Lattanzi norvegese - small stitches
View attachment 48833

St Cripins norvegese - wide stitches. All for show with little substance to the construction.
View attachment 48834

Paolo Scafora - wide stitches. All for show with little substance to the construction.
View attachment 48835

Stefano Branchini - medium wide stitch. All for show with little substance to the construction.
View attachment 48836

Bettanin and Venturi - medium wide stitch. All for show with little substance to the construction.
View attachment 48837


Sutor Mantelassi norvegese - wide stitches. All for show with little substance to the construction.
View attachment 48838


Stefanobi norvegese - wide stitches. All for show with little substance to the construction.
View attachment 48839

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO norvegese - wide loose stitches (worst). Probably machine stitched
View attachment 48840


Bontoni norvegese - wide stitches

View attachment 48841

Santoni norvegese - wide stitches
View attachment 48842

See the point me make?
Lattanzi does the best norvegese by far.

Great post. Very informative. This should be shared with the shoe world.

 

[The Shooman]

Great post. Very informative. This should be shared with the shoe world.

Nah, trying to tell most people in the shoe world anything is usually a waste of time.

 

[The Shooman]

I’m doing that now. Lots of clothing donations to Goodwill et al, shoo giveaways to needy students, and lots to be flogged online.

When I croak, I will have very little. Hopefully well before I kick.

Got a big downsizing exercise to do this year too. Will be offloading numerous shoos and selling lots of things from the shed, and throwing loads of stuff out too.

 

[Thruth]

If you posts photos of some of your norvegese l can let you know if they are up to snuff.

Enzo Bonaffi does it properly, but not many other makers do.

Shooey, I haz a sad now. I diligently catalogue the shoes you post in my head so I am familiar with your shoo stable.

There are not many other norvegese, goyser/goiser, bentivegna or otherwise big fucking stitch shoo wearers here other than us, mate.

I can’t post them again because I just buried them to see if I can get the patina.

 

[kneeshuh]

Has anyone here made plans for how to distribute their acquisitions once they shuffle off? We can’t take it with us!

Not myself, but for clothes, my grandfather did something I thought quite practical, if elaborate - over the course of some family events, he took everyone for a tour of his wardrobe and asked what they might like from it. The things he hadn't worn in some time he gave away immediately, while the items that were part of his "active wardrobe" were written into a notebook, along with the names of the future owners, and given away in the coming years when he no longer needed them, with a few he wore until very close to his death being written into his will.

What I thought fairly interesting during that procedure was who the tailored clothing went to: no one wanted the trousers, but quite a few female relatives wanted a suit/sports jacket, while overcoats/outerwear were universally popular.

 

[The Shooman]

Shooey, I haz a sad now. I diligently catalogue the shoes you post in my head so I am familiar with your shoo stable.

There are not many other norvegese, goyser/goiser, bentivegna or otherwise big fucking stitch shoo wearers here other than us, mate.

I can’t post them again because I just buried them to see if I can get the patina.

That is an amazing post, and men should call you the BIG stitch daddy.

and,

when you talk about the Florsheim Imperials and "We don’t even get a Florsheim comparo", l know exactly what you are talking about.

and you are right, us BIG stitch daddies need to stick together because there are few of us around. BIG stitch daddies are rare.

Haven't seen BIG stitch welts in Australia for 20 years. No-one likes them except for me. I tried talking a major shoo importer into getting them back and reminding him l am from the `shoo world', but he told me that everyone hates them. Once upon a time there were BIG stitch welts everywhere in Oz. Even our top store in Australia sold BIG stitch welts in the 90's for $$$$ when l was a shooman climbing the ladder, and when l asked why they told me that's what all the BIG daddies wore. I learned a lot from that bloke.

 

[Great White Snark]

Not myself, but for clothes, my grandfather did something I thought quite practical, if elaborate - over the course of some family events, he took everyone for a tour of his wardrobe and asked what they might like from it. The things he hadn't worn in some time he gave away immediately, while the items that were part of his "active wardrobe" were written into a notebook, along with the names of the future owners, and given away in the coming years when he no longer needed them, with a few he wore until very close to his death being written into his will.

What I thought fairly interesting during that procedure was who the tailored clothing went to: no one wanted the trousers, but quite a few female relatives wanted a suit/sports jacket, while overcoats/outerwear were universally popular.

That’s a great example of how to do it right there.

 

[Thruth]

That is an amazing post, and men should call you the BIG stitch daddy.

and,

when you talk about the Florsheim Imperials and "We don’t even get a Florsheim comparo", l know exactly what you are talking about.

and you are right, us BIG stitch daddies need to stick together because there are few of us around. BIG stitch daddies are rare.

Haven't seen BIG stitch welts in Australia for 20 years. No-one likes them except for me. I tried talking a major shoo importer into getting them back and reminding him l am from the `shoo world', but he told me that everyone hates them. Once upon a time there were BIG stitch welts everywhere in Oz. Even our top store in Australia sold BIG stitch welts in the 90's for $$$$ when l was a shooman climbing the ladder, and when l asked why they told me that's what all the BIG daddies wore. I learned a lot from that bloke.

They are polarizing shoos, not unlike the AH traditional lasts. Under appreciated shall we say.

 

[Dropbear]

Five years on, these are still my go-to for travel and any serious walking. I have nicer looking shoes and boots, but nothing beats the comfort of these RM Williams Lachlan boots. I couldn’t tell you how many cities and miles are on these, but it’s a lot - and they are still in fab condition.

All RMWs are overpriced now and not worth retail, but these are still the one (much under-appreciated) model that I recommend.

 

[The Shooman]

Dropbear Here is the man who invented and made the last those boots were made on. The reverend Bruce Millar. A real troo bloo fairdinkum aussie. He made his first R.M.Williams last in 1967.

 

[The Shooman]

They are polarizing shoos, not unlike the AH traditional lasts. Under appreciated shall we say.

I remember back in the 90's there was a local warehouse that was full of those porridge jaw shoos (extended soles with heavy rope stitching), and they were only $500 at the time (about a third of the price). I wasn't into those types of shoos at the time, and l fully regret it. If l had my time back l would have bought them all up and become the `porridge jaw daddy'.

The shoos were very elaborate at the time. Harrolds also sold porridge jaw shoos in the 90's, only in black, and those were absolutely stunning masterpieces on amazing lasts. $1,200 at the time, and way above my reach.

 

[kneeshuh]

They are polarizing shoos, not unlike the AH traditional lasts. Under appreciated shall we say.

They "suffer" from the same problem IMO: traditional AH shoes, Goiser or Norwegian welted, ect; they all require stout country clothing, if they are to make sense in an outfit.
The problem is that stout country clothing is rather out of fashion, not only in general but also in the menswear sphere, where "Italian" has been probably the most desirable adjective for at least two decades, and the "Italian" style that is so popular does not work with true shitkickers (some of the Italian ones may work, but I don't like those for different reasons).