The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

They "suffer" from the same problem IMO: traditional AH shoes, Goiser or Norwegian welted, ect; they all require stout country clothing, if they are to make sense in an outfit.

Those AH goiser pairs would pair well with stout country clothing, but not many of those Italian norvegese and bentivegna. Many of those Italians would go well with city suits or sportscoats by adding some flash to the feet. Some norvegese are done so well that they could be worn with almost anything and hardly add any flash at all (mine above).

Here is an elegant pair of norvegese done extremely well. Not all bentivegna and norvegese are fat brutes.

Here is a pair of my bentivegna shoes that would go well with city clothing. They could almost be worn with anything.
Dennis - Santoni bentivegna.jpg
 
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Those AH goiser pairs would pair well with stout country clothing, but not many of those Italian norvegese and bentivegna. Many of those Italians would go well with city suits or sportscoats by adding some flash to the feet.

That I agree with, and that is also the reason I dislike the Italian versions for the most part: Norvegese and goiser welted shoes are IMO inherently robust, casual country shoes, and thus I consider it to be somewhat unneccesary/flashy on "city" shoes.
 
They "suffer" from the same problem IMO: traditional AH shoes, Goiser or Norwegian welted, ect; they all require stout country clothing, if they are to make sense in an outfit.
The problem is that stout country clothing is rather out of fashion, not only in general but also in the menswear sphere, where "Italian" has been probably the most desirable adjective for at least two decades, and the "Italian" style that is so popular does not work with true shitkickers (some of the Italian ones may work, but I don't like those for different reasons).
...and that is the fine line between the perception as to whether they are fugly or not. They do not always need The Shooman The Shooman 's 999 gsm giaccas and 666 gsm slacks. It is more about butch texture and colour choice. But all it takes is for iGents to post the most ridiculous takes on it to underscore the max-shitkicking meme.

This scares off many.

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versus this

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Fugly faux patina, giant strap and overdone stitching for the shape despite a sleeker last..
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versus

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Those AH goiser pairs would pair well with stout country clothing, but not many of those Italian norvegese and bentivegna. Many of those Italians would go well with city suits or sportscoats by adding some flash to the feet. Some norvegese are done so well that they could be worn with almost anything and hardly add any flash at all (mine above).

Here is an elegant pair of norvegese done extremely well. Not all bentivegna and norvegese are fat brutes.

Here is a pair of my bentivegna shoes that would go well with city clothing. They could almost be worn with anything.
View attachment 48855
Good example! My examples.

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Screenshot 2024-09-08 at 10.01.44 AM.webp
 
...and that is the fine line between the perception as to whether they are fugly or not. They do not always need The Shooman The Shooman 's 999 gsm giaccas and 666 gsm slacks. It is more about butch texture and colour choice. But all it takes is for iGents to post the most ridiculous takes on it to underscore the max-shitkicking meme.

This scares off many.

View attachment 48862
versus this

View attachment 48863

Fugly faux patina, giant strap and overdone stitching for the shape despite a sleeker last..
View attachment 48857
versus

View attachment 48864

Good example! My examples.

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I do like yours, especially the boots, and I do agree with the comment on colour and texture - stout was intended to imply classic country colours of green, brown, lovat, ect, and textured surfaces; not really meant to indicate a requirement for bulletproof keeper's tweed.


I also like these examples





The ones I don't like are the Bontoni, etc versions shown by the Shooman, mainly because I think the lasts are too sharp and the thick, bright contrast stitching too eyecatching - but Bontoni at least make versions of it that I do not mind:

 
Five years on, these are still my go-to for travel and any serious walking. I have nicer looking shoes and boots, but nothing beats the comfort of these RM Williams Lachlan boots. I couldn’t tell you how many cities and miles are on these, but it’s a lot - and they are still in fab condition.

All RMWs are overpriced now and not worth retail, but these are still the one (much under-appreciated) model that I recommend.

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What sort of sole do you have on them DB?
And how well has it held up with all your walking / travel?
 
What sort of sole do you have on them DB?
And how well has it held up with all your walking / travel?
The Lachlan uses the dressier Craftsman last with a thicker Kipp leather and a more robust sole like the Gardener.

They are comfortable as sneakers. I’ve covered a lot of miles on these over five years and still on the original sole:

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Mine are the All Rounder. These are 7 years old. Was the daily ranch chore boot. Not yet bothered to put a new set of heels on. Super comfortable even barefoot. Dropbear Dropbear is right in that they are way overpriced for what you get.

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As for RMW being crazy expensive, I went in search of new Chelseas for Mrs. Thruth. She’s been wearing Blundstone because RMW doesn’t have grippy enough treads for the ups and downs of the pastures. But they only last a couple of years at best. We tried Redback. I love them but a donkey stepped on hers with no safety down and and broke the celastic. So she went back to Blundstone.

I ordered these for her from France. Hand made, hand sewn. About $150 more than Blundstone and $150 less than RMW. For French cowboys and cowgirls. Who knew?

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As for RMW being crazy expensive, I went in search of new Chelseas for Mrs. Thruth. She’s been wearing Blundstone because RMW doesn’t have grippy enough treads for the ups and downs of the pastures. But they only last a couple of years at best. We tried Redback. I love them but a donkey stepped on hers with no safety down and and broke the celastic. So she went back to Blundstone.

I ordered these for her from France. Hand made, hand sewn. About $150 more than Blundstone and $150 less than RMW. For French cowboys and cowgirls. Who knew?

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Oh man! Custom desert boots. Not quite Playboys but still nice and wide fittings available. Guess I’ll drop in to the shop when I’m in Paris in November - it looks close to where we are staying.
 
The Lachlan uses the dressier Craftsman last with a thicker Kipp leather and a more robust sole like the Gardener.

They are comfortable as sneakers. I’ve covered a lot of miles on these over five years and still on the original sole:

View attachment 48868
Those soles look as if you have done hardly any walking in them. Were you walking on pavements or in fields?
 
I knew lotsa people who used Rocco.i went there with people a lot but I don't think I had any from him. I had RMWs even back in the 70s. His shoes were fun but not much good. Lots of overseas rock groups would visit and get his shoes.

I worked with one bloke who would get expensive shoes from David Jones, take them to Rocco to copy them take them back to DJs for a refund. Unworn.
 
His shoes were fun but not much good. Lots of overseas rock groups would visit and get his shoes.

His shoes were just basic. I had pairs, were fun to wear with the right outfits as a young bloke. Elton John and the Rolling Stones also went there for shoes, many other top names too because his shoes were fun.

You had R.M.Williams in the 70's, l had them in the 80's.
I worked with one bloke who would get expensive shoes from David Jones, take them to Rocco to copy them take them back to DJs for a refund. Unworn.

Cheeky. Rocco did make nice traditional shoes too, but having him copy the pair would be no substitute for a really nice factory shoe made by workers with years of top training.
 
A bloke picked up a bunch of amazing second hand shoos,he has excellent taste.

Russia Calf shoes made by New and Lingwood. This bloke doesn't even know how good his score was.
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Cole Han
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Church's
Church's half brogues.webp
 
Maybe Mr Lattanzi should work for Mr Vass. Why? Please look below View attachment 48976

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Vass is good (in deep voice).
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Not even close to frankenshoos. Sure they have a snout but they aren’t sporting the Italian flag colours + patina like they are clown shoes in need of repaint, long narrow pointy last with square sole edge. Or the ginormous all square. Both styles either with lovely norvegse or more stitching than the triple sole soul of Grenson.

I’d wear the Vass
 
Not even close to frankenshoos.

Just doing the old forum joke that used to be done. Yep, those buapesters are really nice shoes on the feet.


Sure they have a snout but they aren’t sporting the Italian flag colours + patina like they are clown shoes in need of repaint,

You don't like the mustard colour patina of Lattanzi?? That is what he is famous for. Those mustard patinas are one of the best things Lattanzi does, they are beautiful in real life. Apparently he gets that special colour on the leather because he uses special vintage leather where he can get that effect. I have that colour and the depth and effect is spectacular.
 
Berluti does similar square shoes, so there must be a market for that type of styling.

In Spanish you have a saying, "Eat crap, a million flies can't be wrong."

(In case you miss the point: It’s a sarcastic way of pointing out that just because something is somewhat popular doesn’t mean it’s good or worth following.)
 
Viberg deadstock sale at Marrkt. Boots at $457 USD. Quite picked over now.

 
I like this bloke's shoo reviews. He gets some facts wrong in this video, but his enthusiasm is enjoyable. Like to go back to his videos every now and again. Love his background.
 
^^^

it's a pity you can't wear nice trousers and great shoos. Life is too short not to do that every day. No need to wear a suit at home, but amazing trousers and great shoos is a must imo.
 

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