The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

Thruth said:
What issues do the experts have with pull-up?
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Won't take a shine. Scuffs easily.

For a city boot - I'm fine with the minor scuffs and brushing them out each week. I do need to stop trying to shine them and live with a dull gleam on clean leather. And not over oil them - I think I killed my RMW Gardeners with an excess of Obernauf's. .
 
Horsehide semi-dress:
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Dropbear said:
Horsehide semi-dress:View attachment 30600View attachment 30601
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While I don't mind the slanted heel for a casual/streetwear boot, I just don't like it for the office. And I wore cowboy boots to work today.

I still say you should check out Dayton Boots in Canadia. Vancouver but they will fit you over the phone and via foot tracings and measurements. Their sizing is pretty much bang on the drop down 1 size from your normal size to find your Daytoin size and you don't have to worry as they have wide widths. You'll save some bucks because of the exchange. Last pair I did custom came in at around $450 USD if I did the conversion correctly. Comparable build and quality.
 
Thruth said:
While I don't mind the slanted heel for a casual/streetwear boot, I just don't like it for the office.
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I really dig that heel. My boss is of Cuban decent, so no problem in the office. I’m still on the fence with midsole dressing, but I can always do that myself later.

Thruth said:
I still say you should check out Dayton Boots in Canadia. Vancouver but they will fit you over the phone and via foot tracings and measurements. Their sizing is pretty much bang on the drop down 1 size from your normal size to find your Daytoin size and you don't have to worry as they have wide widths. You'll save some bucks because of the exchange. Last pair I did custom came in at around $450 USD if I did the conversion correctly. Comparable build and quality.
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They look nice, but only four leathers to choose from and still $50 more than a custom White’s Semi-Dress.
 
Dropbear said:
I really dig that heel. My boss is of Cuban decent, so no problem in the office. I’m still on the fence with midsole dressing, but I can always do that myself later.



They look nice, but only four leathers to choose from and still $50 more than a custom White’s Semi-Dress.
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Call them. They have other wacky and non-wacky leather.
 
Thruth said:
Of course you cannot compare the two directly as the Alico's are hiking boots and the White's are built on a shoe last.

Dropbear Dropbear can't wear the Alico's to the office
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mimimi, jajajaja, just makes me laugh ...

go on with dropping cash on hipster shit without real value.

dayton boots seems to be a different animal, though.
 
walker said:
mimimi, jajajaja, just makes me laugh ...

go on with dropping cash on hipster shit without real value.

dayton boots seems to be a different animal, though.
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walker said:
mimimi, jajajaja, just makes me laugh ...

go on with dropping cash on hipster shit without real value.

dayton boots seems to be a different animal, though.
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Dayton and White's are similar old school boot makers. But White's service boot is indeed an attempt to horn in on the current success of Viberg.

The Alico Office Boots

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actually, this is a regional/local thing. none of these boots is particular office wear, but I get the steez.

the bear will buy what looks good to his eye and will dictate the purpose. done.

Thruth said:
Dayton and White's are similar old school boot makers. But White's service boot is indeed an attempt to horn in on the current success of Viberg.

The Alico Office Boots

View attachment 30605
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Thruth said:
Call them. They have other wacky and non-wacky leather.
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Thanks. I spoke with them today and we followed-up with a few emails with sample pics. They are super nice folks and they offer all the customization options of Nick's, Whites, etc. The Dayton Boot really is a lot nicer than Whites once you start digging into the details and options. They offer shell cordovan, if that's your kink. In addition to MTO, they offer a bespoke last service for only a thousand dollars Canadian!

Thruth said:
. Last pair I did custom came in at around $450 USD if I did the conversion correctly. Comparable build and quality.
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They quoted me $630 USD as the base for a custom service boot. Admittedly, they don't nickel and dime the "extras" like Nick's do - I'd probably not go much over base price. The basic off the shelf boot is still $480 USD.
 
walker said:
actually, this is a regional/local thing. none of these boots is particular office wear, but I get the steez.

the bear will buy what looks good to his eye and will dictate the purpose. done.
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that is the whole point in that the hiking boots are not office appropriate anywhere unless you are a forest ranger. Whereas the
Dropbear said:
Thanks. I spoke with them today and we followed-up with a few emails with sample pics. They are super nice folks and they offer all the customization options of Nick's, Whites, etc. The Dayton Boot really is a lot nicer than Whites once you start digging into the details and options. They offer shell cordovan, if that's your kink. In addition to MTO, they offer a bespoke last service for only a thousand dollars Canadian!



They quoted me $630 USD as the base for a custom service boot. Admittedly, they don't nickel and dime the "extras" like Nick's do - I'd probably not go much over base price. The basic off the shelf boot is still $480 USD.
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hmmm. probably knew you were in the US. No way I paid $630 USD last year. Just checked my invoice and I paid $303 Canadian per boot - goofy I know - so $606 CDN = $463 USD

Invoice summary

1 x Final Invoice on Service Boot Build - Custom for $289 CAD each

Subtotal: $289 CAD
GST: $14 CAD
Shipping: $0 CAD

Amount due: $303 CAD (50% down)
 
so I told them my mate Thruth got his custom boots a lot cheaper last year .... and the price just dropped to $640 Canadian. You’re a good man to know!
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fxh said:
WTF - Canadians buy single boots/shoes?
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It reminds me of a great scene in a film l once watched.

A bloke was on a ladder climbing out of some deep tunnel with a lady behind him. The man lost one of his shoes.

Man = "ah, that's $1,000 down the drain"

Lady = "you mean to tell me your shoes were $1,000"

Man = "no, that is just one shoe". (meaning his shoos were $2,000, and that was in the 80's).

I still smile about it.
 
Any thoughts on Siedel Aniflex leather? How does it compare to Horween chrome?
 
Dropbear said:
Any thoughts on Siedel Aniflex leather? How does it compare to Horween chrome?
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I'm not overly jazzed with CXL. I prefer other oil tanned. The Aniflex Is nice and quite similar to chromexcel. The leather feels a bit stiffer which I find better. Nice oiled surface. In the examples I've seen there is good depth/darkness of colour with the pull-up effect.
 
Ok, thanks. I’m ordering a boot tomorrow. May buy a second one if I like the first. Maybe even a third or fourth!
 
Hey Thruth Thruth and other wearers of boots: what sock do you wear/recommend?

I just ordered a pair of Redwing and a pair of Darn Tough from Amazon but I’m open to suggestions. Doesn’t have to be warm - just comfortable.
 
Dropbear said:
Hey Thruth Thruth and other wearers of boots: what sock do you wear/recommend?

I just ordered a pair of Redwing and a pair of Darn Tough from Amazon but I’m open to suggestions. Doesn’t have to be warm - just comfortable.
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Mynsocks are split between:

Icebreaker Hike+ Lite crew. 61% Merino wool, 37% Nylon, 2% LYCRA. Anatomical fit with left and right socks.

Falke TK 2. Medium crew. 40% Polypropylene, 28% Acrylic, 22% Wool, 9% Polyamide, 1% Elastane. Anatomical fit with left and right socks.

Not too thick, not too thin. Good cushioning. Both durable. I wear them year round. I prefer the Icebreaker more. There anatomical fit is a bit more technical than the Falke's.
 
Rambo said:
Those are handsome. How's the fit and what size did you get vs your 1000 miles?
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Not mine. I have Dayton Service and White’s Bounty Hunter boots in production right now. Horsehide wasn’t an option when I ordered last week, though I’m still happy with my choices.

I went 9EEE in both - same as my Wolverine size. Both boot makers will do an exchange/ fix if the sizing isn’t right.

Hopefully next moth!
 
Dropbear said:
Not mine. I have Dayton Service and White’s Bounty Hunter boots in production right now. Horsehide wasn’t an option when I ordered last week, though I’m still happy with my choices.

I went 9EEE in both - same as my Wolverine size. Both boot makers will do an exchange/ fix if the sizing isn’t right.

Hopefully next moth!
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keep us updated. i'm very interested in the width and instep sizing with their lasts.
 
Kingstonian said:
Why?

Toes are one part of the shoe that should not crease. So shine will not crack during wear.

Used to be lots of polish obsessives on the forums at one time. Not as many wingtips as MacArthur used to own and they are all second hand too.
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It doesn't make sense to shine the toes of such a casual shoe.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
Ready for a re-sole?:

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The ultimate test for a resole is when the sole is almost worn down to the welt, but wearing the sole down to the cork is also bad, but if the welt is ruined it spells big immediate problems. I've worn shoos where the sole is hardly worn, but the toes have worn down quickly to the welt so l have had to replace the sole after a short time.

The problem is the welt is tough to replace on goodyear shoos. Really, given the labour work involved it should cost about $500 to replace, and only then IF someone has the skills to hand welt back to the plastic feather. Not many have the skills anymore, nor will many do without charging a fortune because the opportunity cost is too high. Machines are fast and make money where-as handwork is slow and customers aren't prepared to pay for it. Would you rather a $120 resole or a $700 resole?

In regards to wearing the sole down to the cork, never do it! Why? Because moisture can get in, and if gemming failure occurs it can spell big problems also. Why? The shoe must be stripped back to the insole, but if the cobbler gets the gemming placement wrong by even 1mm the shoe may not fit right and be unwearable (but if the shoes are generous fitting it is not a problem). Even if the sole hasn't worn down to the cork you must also be sure to change it when parts of the sole become soft. You never want the sole letting in moisture where gemming failure can occur.

No such problems with fairstitch construction..no feather or welt, and a new bonwelt can easily be stitched in. Easy!


Gemming failure, and why many cobblers probably don't know about it
Note also: a factory told me the biggest cause of gemming failure is when the moisture gets in goodyear welted shoes, especially the salt. He said it is common and happens to many goodyear shoes after the 7 year mark in Melbourne. I didn't even have to ask him, he initially volunteered the info when l asked about his fairstitched shoos. Another major cobbler also said "it happens all the time" when asked about gemming failure. However you willprobably find many cobblers won't report gemming failure. Why? Because they cut corners by not stripping back the cork to check for it so they never become aware of it.
 
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Blakey stops toe wearing down. Easy DIY job. Rubber stick on from Woolworth saved a resole. Topy addresses the same problem. If you have multiple pairs of shoes means resole is not a frequent requirement anyway.
 
I took a few shoes for repair including my Tim Little's a few posts above for a re-sole today. I trust these cobblers and so I decided I won't send them back to Tim Little in London for a revamp. The cobbler did not want to do I wanted which was a leather resole and then rubber on top for all the usual reasons i.e. lack of rubber being able to wick away sweat, etc. But he didn't really have any answer to the position that leather soles are limited season wise in the Netherlands and also a health risk when you work in offices with marble floors. In any event, if you have an adequate shoe pyramid then excessive sweat is not really going to be a problem with a rubber sole shoe is it?

I've never felt sweat to be a problem in any shoe, ever.
 
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@ Truth those shoos are thoroughly foul.

Pimpernel Smith said:
In any event, if you have an adequate shoe pyramid then excessive sweat is not really going to be a problem with a rubber sole shoe is it?

I've never felt sweat to be a problem in any shoe, ever.
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Having a strip of rubber put onto the bottom of the leather soled shoes does not cause the foot to become heated in my experience, however one thing l can say is that grain corrected shoes are noticeably warmer to wear and will make my feet reasonably hot on some days.
 
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