The Canvas: A Proper-Fitting Shirt

Zhirinovsky said:
ZDENEK HARTL is a very good CZECH TAILOR! He understands what a REAL MAN wants to wear. Not HOMOSEXUALLY TIGHT, conservative colours, no crazy collars.
He always travels to the GosDuma.
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He looks like you! I worry about craftsmanship when one of the sleeve buttons has already come off!
 
Totally convinced by the manly look Zhirinovsky . I see he takes a lot of inspiration from the British school of tailoring.

The button issue Allen Smithee Allen Smithee points out has me a bit worried, but I see al buttons on the perfectly fitted vest make me believe this is probably just a one off. Maybe the picture was photoshopped by Western agents to make this tailor look bad.
 
Sarto, while I'm reading your posts and try to learn from them, they sound to me as if you were angry with every other shirtmaker that is not you or someone else that you like or learned from. It's obvious that we would defend our stuff and the one from other that we like.

I think that at the end this is business. And some of these shirtmakers make good business. My cousin, for example, he loves Carolina Herrera shirts, he doesn't want a bespoke shirt or MTM or anything else if it's not Carolina Herrera. You could give him a full lesson of all the hand work that goes into a bespoker shirt made by you or Anna Matuzzo or someone like that and he still will be coosing the CH shirt. Even when they don't fit him nicely. So if you are not CH, he will not buy from you. It's silly but his friends think the same and how many other in the world think the same so that's why all these big brands are shaping their customers taste.

It's funny when he sees someone that has the same shirt and it's wearing it at the same time he is, because he get mad, but if you are buying OTR that's going to happen.

To resume, your posts are good but they have the feeling or sensation that you are angry/jealous of them instead of being enlightening posts.

Just my 2 cents, not intended as an offense.
 
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Allen Smithee said:
Russia is still in the 1990's Armani school of the Big Suit, it seems.
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Wat.

We all know Russia hasn't gotten to the 1990's yet. They are in the 1920's.

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Betelgeuse said:
Sarto, while I'm reading your posts and try to learn from them, they sound to me as if you were angry with every other shirtmaker that is not you or someone else that you like or learned from. It's obvious that we would defend our stuff and the one from other that we like.

I think that at the end this is business. And some of these shirtmakers make good business. My cousin, for example, he loves Carolina Herrera shirts, he doesn't want a bespoke shirt or MTM or anything else if it's not Carolina Herrera. You could give him a full lesson of all the hand work that goes into a bespoker shirt made by you or Anna Matuzzo or someone like that and he still will be coosing the CH shirt. Even when they don't fit him nicely. So if you are not CH, he will not buy from you. It's silly but his friends think the same and how many other in the world think the same so that's why all these big brands are shaping their customers taste.

It's funny when he sees someone that has the same shirt and it's wearing it at the same time he is, because he get mad, but if you are buying OTR that's going to happen.

To resume, your posts are good but they have the feeling or sensation that you are angry/jealous of them instead of being enlightening posts.

Just my 2 cents, not intended as an offense.
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Ha, First of all, envy and jealous is a feeling of inferior destructive people, creative superior people do admire instead in order to improve it. I admire Anna Mattuozzo, my Borrelli masters ,real old Savile Row ( no Jermyn sorry, never liked English shirts or even considered them average compared to neapolitans) and who ever does a good garment, sadly just a few on the world at this time. The rest, I hate them, specially scammers or brands who sell smoke.

2, yes I am angry and hate them all, black, white, unwhite, asian, gentile, russian, american, indian, martian, annunaki, reptilians, spanish, democrat, republican, I just hate them all and be happy.

CH shirts; I have a corner of it on my city so I am very familiar with, fused suits and 1000 euros price, poor shirts with baggy fit and obnoxious sizing, I got a size 4 ?¿?¿ ( This is old Spanish sizing, was different from measuring the collar as per example 15,5 inches/40 cms collar circunference. This shirt that had the equivalent of a 40 collar, got the body of a 44. As you see, obnoxious and very out of the Italian rtw way of using studies of anatomy from the last century to do a garment that fits as much people as possible with still a beauty silhouette on the fit.

It was one of my first experiments years ago of how to diminish / repattern a shirt body, not taking in sides, but completely reshape the body.

I sell it for 20 euros, tell you cousin.

Fabrics are less than poor, super thick over 250 grams ( Riva is just 65) and caliber like 40/2, a real neapolitan shirt goes over 170/2 up ( 35 euros meter vs. 2 euros meter)

Collars got one of the worst interlining made, i think is called Manley, a horrible catalonian copy of european interlinings. Feeling wearing a CH shirt with tie on is like being hanged by a rope.

I got the bad experience I called them before my Kiton masters told me was the worst interlining ever, not only they lied me telling the best interlining brand was out of business, when the week prior, the truck with my order arrived, while I got friendship with the french boss, but when I told him this fact, the narcissistic told me, now go Naples and do pizza!!!

Remember the drug addict liar I exposed last week, he sent me to those Manley. Yes the same who said MOP buttons get broken easily and plastic ones are better, when is the contrary.

The only CH garment I like are ties, average making, 100 euros price for a 3 fold machine made, never even on sales go lesser than 100 euros, but use top Como´s silk, not cheapo silk as Armani or other fashionistas on the same level use.

Best.
 
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This is probably one of the worst shirts I have ever seen. I have forwared to my Neapolitan friends and all are laughing loud.

This brand developed a poor fitting shirt to a later customer of mine, and said he signed a clausule for no returns on bad fitting shirts. Ilegal thing on Europe. Is this thing Indian?

Customer told he got extreme slopped and advanced shoulders and got a straight pattern shirt, then the affiliate answer as a wise guy and lowering his own customer saying he changed 5 times the order.

And what? As if he changes it 1000 times. If not, close the shop and do burgers instead.

His customers seem lowbudget ( not bad on it) but pretentious uneducated ignorants;

Answers he got on the forum were, shut up, shirt is good, wear a jacket or what can you expect for your first order. All this is impossible in Naples ( well you can get undelivered or bad garments, but not this answers unless you go to Orazio or similar scammers)

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I answered and the know troll and Gianni suporter Prick1 called me troll and fake shirtmaker. jajaja

This shirt is a monster, the size of the cuffs looks huge, the biggest made normally on rtw are 26 cms for sizes over 45, this cuff seems for an elefant.

The collar is a wrinkled crime more for a movie like Monsters or similar.

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Worst thing ever.
 
These are $80-$100 MTM shirts that the customer supplies there own measurements for though, not a bespoke neapolitan shirt with fittings etc. A trial and error process should be expected and the problem with it, like many "custom/MTM" suit makers is people go crazy with the options and end up with silly things like the shoulders above. The makers can't be held responsible for their clients bad tastes....

FWIW, you can return shirts to Luxire for remakes but the shipping is at your cost. That guy knew that before ordering and still whined about it.
 
I'll never understand why more shirt makers don't offer $30 starter shirts that are made of shit fabric, just to dial in the measurements. It really would avoid 75% of the horseshit that we see out there.
 
Rambo said:
I'll never understand why more shirt makers don't offer $30 starter shirts that are made of shit fabric, just to dial in the measurements. It really would avoid 75% of the horseshit that we see out there.
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The iGentry are much too important and tasteful for that good sir.
 
HenryC said:
These are $80-$100 MTM shirts that the customer supplies there own measurements for though, not a bespoke neapolitan shirt with fittings etc. A trial and error process should be expected and the problem with it, like many "custom/MTM" suit makers is people go crazy with the options and end up with silly things like the shoulders above. The makers can't be held responsible for their clients bad tastes....

FWIW, you can return shirts to Luxire for remakes but the shipping is at your cost. That guy knew that before ordering and still whined about it.
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The customer sent him several pics and told what the "shirt"makers should do, didn´t do as i think lack of the skills or just want to earn fast money delivering what 80% of their customers buy fast, mediocre shirts for mediocre people who think will get a Kiton shirt for a bunch of bucks, and even is expensive for the low quality they deliver.

Please do not manipulate here, you got the other forum for hooligans and ignorants of what tailoring means. The owner of the brand should have say, we are unable to do that. Period.

He fooled the client, got his bucks and ridiculiced him on public, a thing that any serious owner has to do by any reason, only for that, that brand is a joke. Even ridiculiced himself saying, customer changed 5 times his order. Even if he changed it 50 times, you have to execute the order.

Those online brands; are them serious or just want fast money? Sell dope instead.

That i know, brand didn´t offered a muslim service ( i do for free by the way, but i try to be a serious shirtmaker, not an online fooler for low knowledge customers as on the other case)

Here i got no affiliate bribing presure and do not have to be soft to avoid ban for moderators who just want fast cash as on Gianni scandal.

Anyway the shirts that brand delivers as that ugly white that has been the laughs of all Naples this morning ( My email was plenty with all the shirtmasters friends from Barba, Kiton etc were laughing loud of the white button down unshirt) are poor shirts and a poor attempt to imitate what we do in Naples.


See the cuff diameter on the horrible white shirt, the maximun that i know for big sizes over 45 is 26 cm. That cuff seems very wide and i doubt any person has that cuff diameter.
 
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Again, the customer designed that collar on the white shirt, luxire just execute it. As I said before, not their fault some clients have bad taste.

I have 5 shirts from luxire, so are you saying that I'm mediocre? I see shirts as disposable and if I get a year to a year and a half from them I'm happy. I'm very hard on my shirts so handwork and all the things Naples offers are lost on me.

Have you seen a luxure shirt in the flesh? If not then there is really no way you can tell the quality by those pictures. The quality is fine for the price point, of course below what you are used to for probably 3 times the price. You get what you pay for, like anything in life.

Your problem here is that your comparing a fiat punto to a ferrari.... Nothing wrong with either if it does what you need it to.
 
They charge 80, on Naples you can have a real shirt with very good fabric for 100 euros and handwork for it , ( Barba charges 100 if i do not recall bad if you go there in person) so this unLuxire are selling a broken Fiat Punto for the price of an used mint Porsche 911 Turbo S.

Also why they did not human cuffs as seems on the white shirt case?

I got clients giving me bad selfmeasures all the time and i correct them looking at a human proportion table and then asking them to doublecheck, at this time 100% were wrong. Unless the client is a mutant, that cuff seems for an unreal person.

Real is that i do a shirt at the time they do 50.

Problem is some americans or igents are used to pay a lot for mediocre products and unknow the international market.
 
Sartodinapoli said:
They charge 80, on Naples you can have a real shirt with very good fabric for 100 euros and handwork for it , ( Barba charges 100 if i do not recall bad if you go there in person) so this unLuxire are selling a broken Fiat Punto for the price of an used mint Porsche 911 Turbo S.
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This isn't really a fair comparison though because who the fuck is traveling to Naples just to buy a few 100 euro shirts? The price would go through the roof if they had to take on all the shipping and customs bullshit that Luxire does, not to mention having to answer all the emails and calls about fits that they don't have to put up with by doing it in person.

Also, you should double check that Barba price. I don't think they're doing full MTM shirts for 100 euros. I could be wrong, but that seems like really cheap for them.
 
doghouse said:
You forgot some nonsense about elegance and masculinity.
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ah christ. hey, don't tell Sarto but my shirts are from Hong Kong, have plackets, my tailor is East Indian and god only knows who actually sews the shit that they make for me.
 
thruth said:
ah christ. hey, don't tell Sarto but my shirts are from Hong Kong, have plackets, my tailor is East Indian and god only knows who actually sews the shit that they make for me.
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I've got a couple of inelegent unmasculine tacky Hong Kong shirts with plackets I'm giving away in the classifieds. I couldn't possibly be associated with a known fornicator like you.
 
doghouse said:
I've got a couple of inelegent unmasculine tacky Hong Kong shirts with plackets I'm giving away in the classifieds. I couldn't possibly be associated with a known fornicator like you.
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Nice, now who am I going to hang out with at Pitti next year?
 
Rambo said:
This isn't really a fair comparison though because who the fuck is traveling to Naples just to buy a few 100 euro shirts? The price would go through the roof if they had to take on all the shipping and customs bullshit that Luxire does, not to mention having to answer all the emails and calls about fits that they don't have to put up with by doing it in person.

Also, you should double check that Barba price. I don't think they're doing full MTM shirts for 100 euros. I could be wrong, but that seems like really cheap for them.
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Yes they do. Also sell at 60 euros their rtws and like 40 their ties ( ties are poor omho). At what price do you think they or brands sell to shops? Shops charges 300% more, so perhaps they sell at 40 euros a 140 euros tagged shirt.

So based on this calcule, Unluxire shirts would cost 240 euros on a shop, more than some Borrellis. What i said, a joke.

I do from 120, but i deliver the following year...
 
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HenryC said:
I have 5 shirts from luxire, so are you saying that I'm mediocre? I see shirts as disposable and if I get a year to a year and a half from them I'm happy. I'm very hard on my shirts so handwork and all the things Naples offers are lost on me.
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This.

I found amazing how Neapolitan shirtmakes "laugh hard" as if they were like a conspiracy or like the mafia. They claim, no one can do a shirt as they do. I bet that there are thousands of chinese business that could copy a shirt like that and mass produce it. It's called business.

In fact there is one mexican tailor that studied at Kiton or with someone from there in Naples and could do a full hand mande shirt for less than 200 usd. How much would a Neapolitan full hand made shirt would cost? Difference? One is made where workmanship is cheaper than in the other place. Then again, business!

In my way of seeing it, Luxire is doing great business.
 
Napoli is a garbage filled shithole run by the Camorra and only worshipped by faded ex clothing gurus like MaPo To FOO, manton the Tea Party Intellectual and other tackies.
 
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