Thanks for showing your collection. That camelhair vee-neck from Alan Paine is just like mine, really nice indeed. What bother me however is the fact that they don't declare on the label where the garment is produced: I thought it is mandatory.Hodgson of Scotland which closed down in 2016 is great quality. It is just as good as Hawick which also closed. I have only recently received most of my Peter Scott and William Lockie knitwear.
Hawico and Hawick are two very separate companies. Hawico is Cashmere aimed at the international jet set. Hawick was indeed bought by a foreign company. They have renamed themselves Hawick Knitwear so I am expecting a relaunch. Alan Paine is meant to be made in Madagascar where CIEL has a large factory. To be honest does it matter where a person collects items from Shima Seiki machine?Thanks for showing your collection. That camelhair vee-neck from Alan Paine is just like mine, really nice indeed. What bother me however is the fact that they don't declare on the label where the garment is produced: I thought it is mandatory.
What do you know about Hawick? Is Hawico the new Hawick? In which relationship are they? Whose is the ownership? (Hawick was lately overtaken by Chinese). Have you detailed news?
I bought recently two sleeveless cardigans fro Hawico and find the quality pretty high.
I also saw dyed camelhair (I have a green sweater), but honestly I like so much more the natural shades, that can be quite different, from "blond" to pretty dark.
Actually I also tend more towards wool than cashmere recently, as the latter has become so common and somehow inflated. Of course high quality cashmere remains very exclusive and precious, but fine wool is becominig more and more rare as the market is being flooded with cheap products. As above mentioned, camehair has almost disappeared, and shetland and other less refined varieties have become sought after by connoisseurs.Two roll necks and my latest two arrivals.
View attachment 36589View attachment 36591
This is my only cashmere, as I donated my previous inexpensive cashmere sweaters.
View attachment 36592
View attachment 36593
I have decided to go for luxury wool rather than cashmere, so I have gone for SaxXon and Geelong, with the aim of Pecora Nera and Ultrafine Merino to follow. Sadly Escorial hasn't made it's way into knitwear.
Have you seen the prices of The Gift of Kings? I am actually interested in the original Gifts of Kings, Alpaca. I also want to try Llama and Yak fibres too. I previously had an Alpaca glove, scarf and beanie set but it shrunk being washed. It fitted my friends 6 year old perfectly.Actually I also tend more towards wool than cashmere recently, as the latter has become so common and somehow inflated. Of course high quality cashmere remains very exclusive and precious, but fine wool is becominig more and more rare as the market is being flooded with cheap products. As above mentioned, camehair has almost disappeared, and shetland and other less refined varieties have become sought after by connoisseurs.
Yes, it's a pity that Escorial wool hasn't find yet its way into knitwear. I have a nice collection of scarves from Joshua Ellis, it's a really luxurious material.
By the way, has anybody experienced Loro Piana's exclusive wool naned "The Gift Of Kings"?
Yes, those prices are insane. Also given the high quality and exclusivity. But it's known that Italians are masters in image and advertising, they always are able to suggest that what is sold is a great value. In reality you pay as much for quality as for name and prestige. Of course Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli, to name the most famous and expensive, produce excellent knitwear, but certainly they are overpriced and, as many times stated in this forum, they can't compare with the great Scottish stuff of the golden era. Sadly most of the Scottish brands have closed, or have been bought by foreigners (and sometimes even don't produce in Scotland anymore), or have dropped quality in order to compete in a market, where what counts are low production costs and big margins.
£1720.00 for a Polo...
My John Smedley Merino Polo was only £49.00 in the outlet...
You know what Shoey? It's like what you have to do to a vehicle in the outback, except the opposite. Block heater to warm the coolant. Electric battery blankets to insulate the battery so it doesn't freeze, trickle charger to keep it topped up. I always ran two batteries and all the other gear. When it's really cold, guys with Diesel engines just leave them run overnight. Some will have interior car warmers to keep it toasty but I think it is a fire risk. No special cars. 4x4 is a good idea. Plus there are snowmobiles and quads on the roads too. Just pull the start cord and give'er.
You should do only to find out. Here is where you and I differ. For you, 12-ply cashmere or wool makes sense in your pursuit for warmth given your climate and your style. For me, it is the law of diminishing returns. Beyond the Dachstein heft, higher plies will not return enough warmth to weight as down or synthetic insulation for me when I need something warmer. I also reserve heavy wool fabric for overcoats. Because a lighter weight wool + a down or synthetic insulation lining is warmer. And I have a 34 ounce camel hair polo coat. At -53 windchill a couple of weeks ago, my mid layer was a down pullover anorak, no hood, with 170g of 850+ fill power down weighing all of 400g. Merino base layers beneath. Fleece-lined pullover anorak over top. So that is how I approach it.
If you can find them, the last generation of wool German army pants might be to your liking. But they have cargo pockets, so that may not be your thing. Field pants. Internal double knee. Hidden pocket buttons. Heavy cotton pocket bags. Button fly. Button side adjusters. Dense wool and does not wet through easily. Heavyweight.
View attachment 36461
View attachment 36464
View attachment 36465
View attachment 36466
I get the wool trousers here:Interesting.
That is such an interesting post. Interesting how a 34 oz coat was not near warm enough on the coldest days. I would have thought a 34 oz coat and thick skivvy with a thermal layer would have been enough, but obviously not. I used to find it really challenging when l used to see you rugged up in your cold weather style, and l used to wonder why you never dressed in thick turtlenecks and coats, but after reading camping forums and your posts l understand why layers and lightweight clothes are needed. The really cold weather style is never elegant and nice, so now l am glad l live where l do. At least l can dress how l want to without being forced to wear ugly coats etc.
@Truth where you you get those German army pants from? They look really warm.
Would these be warmer than 25 oz corduroy? What about 22 0z tweed?
The Shooman , have you a particular source for HERMES' cashmere made in Scotland? I just saw something online but made in Italy. More generally, have you a particular website for your great finds, or do you cruise often through ebay?Hermes' Scotland probably has the best jumpers made today...old world thickness and quality made to last,
They can afford nice descriptions at those prices. I wonder who makes them? Hadley and Esk are both seamless, but not sure about the hand framed. I thought that was mainly on Shetland...Heavy crewneck, hand-framed in the south-west of the British Isles, with a tuck-stitch of green-grey lambswool, and horn buttons from the Midlands.www.sehkelly.com
Just heard of this interesting brand.
Really nicely written product descriptions, you don’t get to see this that often,
And a nice sweater too. maybe something for The Shooman , though 10 ply.
Talking about geelong wool, this was a very nice tactile and wearing experience for me. So light and comfy (in my case in Lockie’s version), reminds me a bit of foam or sponge, very satisfying.
Looks very nice, quite different from usual shetland nowadays, dry and lustrous whereas what I have (Harley) is dull and rather brushed. Admittedly that vintage wool is much more attractive to me, seems also quite suppler. Very interesting the specification "mothproof": any information what consists it of?
A pesticide is added to the dyeing process. The Shooman 's sweater will have the old school pesticide which is a neurotoxin. But if it has been cleaned enough over the years there will be less residual death amongst the fibres.Looks very nice, quite different from usual shetland nowadays, dry and lustrous whereas what I have (Harley) is dull and rather brushed. Admittedly that vintage wool is much more attractive to me, seems also quite suppler. Very interesting the specification "mothproof": any information what consists it of?
They are certainly warmer than cotton corduroy or any cotton fabric. No idea on their weight or compared to 22 ounce tweed. That is less important for me as I wear a merino base layer bottom under them. The double wool layer from thigh to knee also adds windproofness and warmth.
A 34 ounce wool overcoat over a suit at those extreme temps is bearable but no comparison to a coat with insulation be that wool, synthetic or down beneath the outer. Insulation works because it has more loft to trap more air to be warmed by body heat.
Here is a Swedish army coat, shearling lined with cotton outer which is a -40 coat and warmer than a 34 ounce wool simply because of the loft of the shearling on the inside. Translate that to non-utilitarian coats for upscale gents.
Thanks! Wondering if those treaments were potentially harmful for the wearer's health and why otherwise they aren't applied anymore.A pesticide is added to the dyeing process. The Shooman 's sweater will have the old school pesticide which is a neurotoxin. But if it has been cleaned enough over the years there will be less residual death amongst the fibres.
Effective less toxic agents have been developed from the 90's onwards. Ercolan is one modern agent which kills moths dead but not the wearer.
Most likely not. Change would have been just because the product was reviewed as hazardous. I think the newer non-toxic (less toxic) surfactant-style chemicals may be in there but we don’t know. Not sure about that though.Thanks! Wondering if those treaments were potentially harmful for the wearer's health and why otherwise they aren't applied anymore.
Is this a bit more urban warmth for you The Shooman ? Camel hair cashmere blend, removable down filled liner. Justin Trudeau wears a Hugo Boss version of this. But the Kiton is $10,000 CAD and the Hugo is not. 3/2, three patch pockets.Thanks for the link. Might even try them for a cold weekend at home for messing about.
Always interesting. I think l am getting the hang of the advanced cold weather clothing knowledge now, it's good to know this stuff and learn from blokes who are highly advanced.
Wow, look at this guy in his clothes with his large alligator bag. Extremely upscale, and could be over 100K outfit just here.
I was looking at nice alligator bags like that...a nice big duffle bag in alligator to take to the park with me with a meditation mat and a few things inside; but oh wow, the cost was eye watering....especially for just going to the park once a week. Best l forget about it and lower my standards. I don't need to be so high level just to go to a park, RIDICULOUS!!! I love alligator and l love nice things, but sometimes my dreams get too lofty. Wearing John Lobb or bespoke Cleverley etc to the park is crazy enough, so no need to get stupid about it.
shooey, this will keep you warm Possum and Merino.
Range of classic styles to take your from work to play, created in the eco luxury blend of environmentally friendly possum fur blended with merino and silk. Our personally selected range of classic styles to take you from work to play, created in the eco luxury blend of environmentally friendly...nznaturalclothingshop.co.nz
There are no The Shooman -level possum jumpers. Besides, there are no pure possum jumpers that I've seen. It is always a minor constituent.I have been wanting to try possum for ages, but l want the really highend jumpers made from possum and am not sure where to look. Would be great to do a 6 ply possum by William Lockie or something.