The knitwear thread

Panama

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Wow, that is a lot of jumpers Panama, and many in the same colours, and many with tags still on them. You seem to be a man who knows what he likes and sticks with it. Thanks for posting your collection.
I have been on buying spree, more are arriving every day...
 

florisgreen

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Hodgson of Scotland which closed down in 2016 is great quality. It is just as good as Hawick which also closed. I have only recently received most of my Peter Scott and William Lockie knitwear.
Thanks for showing your collection. That camelhair vee-neck from Alan Paine is just like mine, really nice indeed. What bother me however is the fact that they don't declare on the label where the garment is produced: I thought it is mandatory.
What do you know about Hawick? Is Hawico the new Hawick? In which relationship are they? Whose is the ownership? (Hawick was lately overtaken by Chinese). Have you detailed news?
I bought recently two sleeveless cardigans from Hawico and find the quality pretty high.
I also saw dyed camelhair (I have a green sweater), but honestly I like so much more the natural shades, that can be quite different, from "blond" to pretty dark.
 
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Panama

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Thanks for showing your collection. That camelhair vee-neck from Alan Paine is just like mine, really nice indeed. What bother me however is the fact that they don't declare on the label where the garment is produced: I thought it is mandatory.
What do you know about Hawick? Is Hawico the new Hawick? In which relationship are they? Whose is the ownership? (Hawick was lately overtaken by Chinese). Have you detailed news?
I bought recently two sleeveless cardigans fro Hawico and find the quality pretty high.
I also saw dyed camelhair (I have a green sweater), but honestly I like so much more the natural shades, that can be quite different, from "blond" to pretty dark.
Hawico and Hawick are two very separate companies. Hawico is Cashmere aimed at the international jet set. Hawick was indeed bought by a foreign company. They have renamed themselves Hawick Knitwear so I am expecting a relaunch. Alan Paine is meant to be made in Madagascar where CIEL has a large factory. To be honest does it matter where a person collects items from Shima Seiki machine?


 
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florisgreen

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Thank you very much for the informations. I didn't know at all about this CIEL Group: it seems a nice, ethical project, letting quality aside. Interesting to read that Hawick is going to relaunch, let's see what's coming out.
 

Panama

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Two roll necks and my latest two arrivals.

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This is my only cashmere, as I donated my previous inexpensive cashmere sweaters.

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I have decided to go for luxury wool rather than cashmere, so I have gone for SaxXon and Geelong, with the aim of Pecora Nera and Ultrafine Merino to follow. Sadly Escorial hasn't made it's way into knitwear.
 

florisgreen

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Two roll necks and my latest two arrivals.

View attachment 36589View attachment 36591

This is my only cashmere, as I donated my previous inexpensive cashmere sweaters.

View attachment 36592

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I have decided to go for luxury wool rather than cashmere, so I have gone for SaxXon and Geelong, with the aim of Pecora Nera and Ultrafine Merino to follow. Sadly Escorial hasn't made it's way into knitwear.
Actually I also tend more towards wool than cashmere recently, as the latter has become so common and somehow inflated. Of course high quality cashmere remains very exclusive and precious, but fine wool is becominig more and more rare as the market is being flooded with cheap products. As above mentioned, camehair has almost disappeared, and shetland and other less refined varieties have become sought after by connoisseurs.
Yes, it's a pity that Escorial wool hasn't find yet its way into knitwear. I have a nice collection of scarves from Joshua Ellis, it's a really luxurious material.
By the way, has anybody experienced Loro Piana's exclusive wool named "The Gift Of Kings"?
 
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Panama

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Actually I also tend more towards wool than cashmere recently, as the latter has become so common and somehow inflated. Of course high quality cashmere remains very exclusive and precious, but fine wool is becominig more and more rare as the market is being flooded with cheap products. As above mentioned, camehair has almost disappeared, and shetland and other less refined varieties have become sought after by connoisseurs.
Yes, it's a pity that Escorial wool hasn't find yet its way into knitwear. I have a nice collection of scarves from Joshua Ellis, it's a really luxurious material.
By the way, has anybody experienced Loro Piana's exclusive wool naned "The Gift Of Kings"?
Have you seen the prices of The Gift of Kings? I am actually interested in the original Gifts of Kings, Alpaca. I also want to try Llama and Yak fibres too. I previously had an Alpaca glove, scarf and beanie set but it shrunk being washed. It fitted my friends 6 year old perfectly.
 

florisgreen

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£1720.00 for a Polo...

My John Smedley Merino Polo was only £49.00 in the outlet...
Yes, those prices are insane. Also given the high quality and exclusivity. But it's known that Italians are masters in image and advertising, they always are able to suggest that what is sold is a great value. In reality you pay as much for quality as for name and prestige. Of course Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli, to name the most famous and expensive, produce excellent knitwear, but certainly they are overpriced and, as many times stated in this forum, they can't compare with the great Scottish stuff of the golden era. Sadly most of the Scottish brands have closed, or have been bought by foreigners (and sometimes even don't produce in Scotland anymore), or have dropped quality in order to compete in a market, where what counts are low production costs and big margins.
 

Lobbster

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This has little to do with the Italians. It's simply the Arnault family lining their pockets once again and to refinance their purchase costs.
 

camez7

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i haven't seen the name bosie around here, anyone familiar with it? wanted to order some of their stuff last year but haven't pulled the trigger so far
 

florisgreen

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I have several jumpers from Harley, in lambswool and shetland, bought however in shops. I would surely recommend them, good quality with updated fitting for a fair price. Noteworthy aspect, they have a tubular construction, that is without side seams, and saddle shoulders with a a very nice patterned seam.
 

The Shooman

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You know what Shoey? It's like what you have to do to a vehicle in the outback, except the opposite. Block heater to warm the coolant. Electric battery blankets to insulate the battery so it doesn't freeze, trickle charger to keep it topped up. I always ran two batteries and all the other gear. When it's really cold, guys with Diesel engines just leave them run overnight. Some will have interior car warmers to keep it toasty but I think it is a fire risk. No special cars. 4x4 is a good idea. Plus there are snowmobiles and quads on the roads too. Just pull the start cord and give'er.

Interesting.


You should do only to find out. Here is where you and I differ. For you, 12-ply cashmere or wool makes sense in your pursuit for warmth given your climate and your style. For me, it is the law of diminishing returns. Beyond the Dachstein heft, higher plies will not return enough warmth to weight as down or synthetic insulation for me when I need something warmer. I also reserve heavy wool fabric for overcoats. Because a lighter weight wool + a down or synthetic insulation lining is warmer. And I have a 34 ounce camel hair polo coat. At -53 windchill a couple of weeks ago, my mid layer was a down pullover anorak, no hood, with 170g of 850+ fill power down weighing all of 400g. Merino base layers beneath. Fleece-lined pullover anorak over top. So that is how I approach it.


That is such an interesting post. Interesting how a 34 oz coat was not near warm enough on the coldest days. I would have thought a 34 oz coat and thick skivvy with a thermal layer would have been enough, but obviously not. I used to find it really challenging when l used to see you rugged up in your cold weather style, and l used to wonder why you never dressed in thick turtlenecks and coats, but after reading camping forums and your posts l understand why layers and lightweight clothes are needed. The really cold weather style is never elegant and nice, so now l am glad l live where l do. At least l can dress how l want to without being forced to wear ugly coats etc.


If you can find them, the last generation of wool German army pants might be to your liking. But they have cargo pockets, so that may not be your thing. Field pants. Internal double knee. Hidden pocket buttons. Heavy cotton pocket bags. Button fly. Button side adjusters. Dense wool and does not wet through easily. Heavyweight.

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@Truth where you you get those German army pants from? They look really warm.

Would these be warmer than 25 oz corduroy? What about 22 0z tweed?
 

The Shooman

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@ Panama that is a lot of jumpers. Your tastes are very different to mine.

Btw, l tested my Dachstein boiled wool jumper on a 8 degree C night last week and had the window open. It passed the test because l was warm. None-the-less, it is not as warm as l thought it would be, but good for a cold night, and if a thermal layer is underneath l would be fine for the coldest of nights in Melbourne during winter.

My 34 oz peacoat is warmer than my Dachstein, I think. What do you think @Truth?

Got my fabulous Caerlee cardigan recently. Looked ordinary in pictures, but is a masterpiece in person. I am eyeing a really nice piece of knitwear as we speak.
 

The Shooman

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The Shooman The Shooman its Thruth Thruth not @truth, even though it should be.

AHA....I have never been able to get @Truth's avator to come up because l have always spelled it wrong. It has always baffled me why his avator would never come up. 😲

I will try it here. Thruth Thruth . HA, l done it! Now it will take time to get used to. I always like Truth, but now I will have to say Thruth (a mouthful)

When l was at FNB forum l never knew Film Noir Buff's online name until years later. I always called him "Film Noir Bluff".
 

Thruth

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Interesting.





That is such an interesting post. Interesting how a 34 oz coat was not near warm enough on the coldest days. I would have thought a 34 oz coat and thick skivvy with a thermal layer would have been enough, but obviously not. I used to find it really challenging when l used to see you rugged up in your cold weather style, and l used to wonder why you never dressed in thick turtlenecks and coats, but after reading camping forums and your posts l understand why layers and lightweight clothes are needed. The really cold weather style is never elegant and nice, so now l am glad l live where l do. At least l can dress how l want to without being forced to wear ugly coats etc.





@Truth where you you get those German army pants from? They look really warm.

Would these be warmer than 25 oz corduroy? What about 22 0z tweed?
I get the wool trousers here:


They are certainly warmer than cotton corduroy or any cotton fabric. No idea on their weight or compared to 22 ounce tweed. That is less important for me as I wear a merino base layer bottom under them. The double wool layer from thigh to knee also adds windproofness and warmth.

A 34 ounce wool overcoat over a suit at those extreme temps is bearable but no comparison to a coat with insulation be that wool, synthetic or down beneath the outer. Insulation works because it has more loft to trap more air to be warmed by body heat.

Here is a Swedish army coat, shearling lined with cotton outer which is a -40 coat and warmer than a 34 ounce wool simply because of the loft of the shearling on the inside. Translate that to non-utilitarian coats for upscale gents.

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florisgreen

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Hermes' Scotland probably has the best jumpers made today...old world thickness and quality made to last,
The Shooman The Shooman , have you a particular source for HERMES' cashmere made in Scotland? I just saw something online but made in Italy. More generally, have you a particular website for your great finds, or do you cruise often through ebay?
 

figurine

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Just heard of this interesting brand.
Really nicely written product descriptions, you don’t get to see this that often,

And a nice sweater too. maybe something for The Shooman The Shooman , though 10 ply.

Talking about geelong wool, this was a very nice tactile and wearing experience for me. So light and comfy (in my case in Lockie’s version), reminds me a bit of foam or sponge, very satisfying.
 

Panama

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Just heard of this interesting brand.
Really nicely written product descriptions, you don’t get to see this that often,

And a nice sweater too. maybe something for The Shooman The Shooman , though 10 ply.

Talking about geelong wool, this was a very nice tactile and wearing experience for me. So light and comfy (in my case in Lockie’s version), reminds me a bit of foam or sponge, very satisfying.
They can afford nice descriptions at those prices. I wonder who makes them? Hadley and Esk are both seamless, but not sure about the hand framed. I thought that was mainly on Shetland...
 

The Shooman

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The Shooman The Shooman , have you a particular source for HERMES' cashmere made in Scotland? I just saw something online but made in Italy. More generally, have you a particular website for your great finds, or do you cruise often through ebay?

Hermes made-in-Scotland are as rare as hen's teeth.

Ebay can be a good place for knitwear.

I just purchased this. Vintage Mc George shawl cardigan, made-in-Scotland
Mc George shetland shawl cardigan.jpg

Mc George shetland shawl cardigan 1.jpg
 

florisgreen

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Hermes made-in-Scotland are as rare as hen's teeth.

Ebay can be a good place for knitwear.

I just purchased this. Vintage Mc George shawl cardigan, made-in-Scotland
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Looks very nice, quite different from usual shetland nowadays, dry and lustrous whereas what I have (Harley) is dull and rather brushed. Admittedly that vintage wool is much more attractive to me, seems also quite suppler. Very interesting the specification "mothproof": any information what consists it of?
 

Thruth

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Looks very nice, quite different from usual shetland nowadays, dry and lustrous whereas what I have (Harley) is dull and rather brushed. Admittedly that vintage wool is much more attractive to me, seems also quite suppler. Very interesting the specification "mothproof": any information what consists it of?
A pesticide is added to the dyeing process. The Shooman The Shooman 's sweater will have the old school pesticide which is a neurotoxin. But if it has been cleaned enough over the years there will be less residual death amongst the fibres.

Effective less toxic agents have been developed from the 90's onwards. Ercolan is one modern agent which kills moths dead but not the wearer.
 

The Shooman

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I get the wool trousers here:


Thanks for the link. Might even try them for a cold weekend at home for messing about.


They are certainly warmer than cotton corduroy or any cotton fabric. No idea on their weight or compared to 22 ounce tweed. That is less important for me as I wear a merino base layer bottom under them. The double wool layer from thigh to knee also adds windproofness and warmth.

Always interesting. I think l am getting the hang of the advanced cold weather clothing knowledge now, it's good to know this stuff and learn from blokes who are highly advanced.

A 34 ounce wool overcoat over a suit at those extreme temps is bearable but no comparison to a coat with insulation be that wool, synthetic or down beneath the outer. Insulation works because it has more loft to trap more air to be warmed by body heat.


Makes sense
Here is a Swedish army coat, shearling lined with cotton outer which is a -40 coat and warmer than a 34 ounce wool simply because of the loft of the shearling on the inside. Translate that to non-utilitarian coats for upscale gents.

Very interesting.

Wow, look at this guy in his clothes with his large alligator bag. Extremely upscale, and could be over 100K outfit just here.

I was looking at nice alligator bags like that...a nice big duffle bag in alligator to take to the park with me with a meditation mat and a few things inside; but oh wow, the cost was eye watering....especially for just going to the park once a week. Best l forget about it and lower my standards. I don't need to be so high level just to go to a park, RIDICULOUS!!! I love alligator and l love nice things, but sometimes my dreams get too lofty. Wearing John Lobb or bespoke Cleverley etc to the park is crazy enough, so no need to get stupid about it.
 
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florisgreen

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A pesticide is added to the dyeing process. The Shooman The Shooman 's sweater will have the old school pesticide which is a neurotoxin. But if it has been cleaned enough over the years there will be less residual death amongst the fibres.

Effective less toxic agents have been developed from the 90's onwards. Ercolan is one modern agent which kills moths dead but not the wearer.
Thanks! Wondering if those treaments were potentially harmful for the wearer's health and why otherwise they aren't applied anymore.
 

Thruth

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Thanks! Wondering if those treaments were potentially harmful for the wearer's health and why otherwise they aren't applied anymore.
Most likely not. Change would have been just because the product was reviewed as hazardous. I think the newer non-toxic (less toxic) surfactant-style chemicals may be in there but we don’t know. Not sure about that though.
 

Thruth

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Thanks for the link. Might even try them for a cold weekend at home for messing about.




Always interesting. I think l am getting the hang of the advanced cold weather clothing knowledge now, it's good to know this stuff and learn from blokes who are highly advanced.




Makes sense


Very interesting.


Wow, look at this guy in his clothes with his large alligator bag. Extremely upscale, and could be over 100K outfit just here.

I was looking at nice alligator bags like that...a nice big duffle bag in alligator to take to the park with me with a meditation mat and a few things inside; but oh wow, the cost was eye watering....especially for just going to the park once a week. Best l forget about it and lower my standards. I don't need to be so high level just to go to a park, RIDICULOUS!!! I love alligator and l love nice things, but sometimes my dreams get too lofty. Wearing John Lobb or bespoke Cleverley etc to the park is crazy enough, so no need to get stupid about it.
Is this a bit more urban warmth for you The Shooman The Shooman ? Camel hair cashmere blend, removable down filled liner. Justin Trudeau wears a Hugo Boss version of this. But the Kiton is $10,000 CAD and the Hugo is not. 3/2, three patch pockets.
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The Shooman

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I would love that coat above (my style), but not at 10K.

Talking about luxury knitwear, there is this style forum bloke who has tried selling his $7,000 cardigan for about 18 months. It is about my size too, and probably worth the $1,850 he is trying to sell it for. It is Brunello Cucinelli's version of 12 ply (a thin 12 ply which is a problem for me) with goose feathers under the cardigan. It would be an amazing piece of knitwear and perfect for my lifestyle, but l just don't want to pay that money for Brunello Cucinelli.

Brunello Cucinelli 12 ply goosedown cardigan 1.jpgBrunello Cucinelli 12 ply goosedown cardigan 3.jpgBrunello Cucinelli 12 ply goosedown cardigan 5.jpg

Instead l settle for a Dachstein boiled wool jumper that will keep me warm for much less. BUT would the BC goose feather 12 ply cardigan be better?....most likely with it's plush thick cashmere and feathers, both warm and extremely comfortable. Sadly we can't have everything we want. Imagine if that was a John Laing 12 ply with goose feathers, now THAT would be something to think about.

What l do find is that shetland and wool is a compromise. Cashmere is the real luxury when it comes to knitwear.

That BC 12 ply should be mine, and it also comes with a hood which makes it perfect for me, and if l saw it at the shops l may be tempted to buy it. It is a beauty.
 
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The Shooman

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Your taste is very different to mine, but l do understand your mindset. My mindset was once like yours, l used to like the thin v neck knits in lambswool.


Bought this beauty today. Have been eyeing it for weeks and have been searching for a made in U.K alpaca jumper for years. Good character.

thick Alan Paine crewneck - 60% alpaca/40% lambswool.
Alan Paine alpaca crewneck.jpgAlan Paine alpaca crewneck 1.jpg
 

figurine

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That looks nice The Shooman The Shooman ! I was also longing for some preferably 100% alpaca nowadays, but haven't ordered anything yet.
Found this one nice though, if it weren't for the VAT&customs, I would have given this one a go!
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Panama

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How old are they? I shopped at Alain Paine in Godalming when they were still made there. The production moved to Wales, but a factory shop remained.
 

florisgreen

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One of my oldest cashmere jumpers (Malo) older than 20 years and still in very good shape, nice dry feel, almost no pilling, not shabby at all.
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Three of my latest purchases, all William Lockie cashmere, two cardigans and one jumper, really beautiful colours (not so faithful in the pictures), respectively named Isfahan, Vintage Vicuna and Seine. Medium-high material quality with nice, modern fitting and average finish. In my opinion a little superior to Johnstons Of Elgin, even though I would put them both in the middle range.
 

fxh

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The Shooman The Shooman
shooey, this will keep you warm Possum and Merino.

 

The Shooman

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The Shooman The Shooman
shooey, this will keep you warm Possum and Merino.


I have been wanting to try possum for ages, but l want the really highend jumpers made from possum and am not sure where to look. Would be great to do a 6 ply possum by William Lockie or something.
 

Thruth

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I have been wanting to try possum for ages, but l want the really highend jumpers made from possum and am not sure where to look. Would be great to do a 6 ply possum by William Lockie or something.
There are no The Shooman The Shooman -level possum jumpers. Besides, there are no pure possum jumpers that I've seen. It is always a minor constituent.
 

Panama

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They wack the Possums over the head with a stick and kill them. I am not too sure I still want Possum for their warm hollow fibres.
 
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