The knitwear thread

florisgreen

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It is casual by design. Everything is not about classic elegant clothing here is it? Paper thin deep v necks are not everyone’s cup of tea either.

The Shooman The Shooman can easily combine it with his heavy corduroy and big butch bluchers and he will still well turned out.

You are exhibiting iGent Knitwear poisoning. Less fatal than mercury poisoning

This chap has no issue looking good in it.

View attachment 37492
As you say, not my cup of tea, but to each his own.
 

The Shooman

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"big butch bluchers" hahaha, that is a great way with words, some of the best l have seen. You are right though, the styling with this is right up my alley...this is the stuff l pull right out of my hat. Nothing crazy or German about it, just a quality warm winter casual look that is unsurpassed. I love my winter wear, that's when l really have my fun. I don't do a sharp city look in winter (might be a cashmere overcoat or tweed coat at most), l am lucky enough to be able to do it my way. I like very smart country style for winter...wouldn't want it any other way.

360 degree burgundy goiser brogues in shell cordovan
thick winter cords or tweed trousers (dark browns)
that jumper
english style tweed cap
english 4 ply olive alpaca socks


or

navy cords
that gray jumper in picture
cashmere turtleneck
etc

It is casual by design. Everything is not about classic elegant clothing here is it? Paper thin deep v necks are not everyone’s cup of tea either.

The Shooman The Shooman can easily combine it with his heavy corduroy and big butch bluchers and he will still well turned out.
 

Thruth

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"big butch bluchers" hahaha, that is a great way with words, some of the best l have seen. You are right though, the styling with this is right up my alley...this is the stuff l pull right out of my hat. Nothing crazy or German about it, just a quality warm winter casual look that is unsurpassed. I love my winter wear, that's when l really have my fun. I don't do a sharp city look in winter (might be a cashmere overcoat or tweed coat at most), l am lucky enough to be able to do it my way. I like very smart country style for winter...wouldn't want it any other way.

360 degree burgundy goiser brogues in shell cordovan
thick winter cords or tweed trousers (dark browns)
that jumper
english style tweed cap
english 4 ply olive alpaca socks


or

navy cords
that gray jumper in picture
cashmere turtleneck
etc
I can see it in my mind’s eye
 

Panama

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My latest ultra thin John Smedley has arrived...


20210504_203536.jpg
 

Rambo

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We just need some warm weather for the Polo's, Roll Neck's, and Cotton and Merino sweaters to come out.
I’m sorry but are we using the same language here? What kind of glass-eyed psychopath wears a fucking sweater in “warm” weather? Do you have an iron deficiency?
 

Panama

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I’m sorry but are we using the same language here? What kind of glass-eyed psychopath wears a fucking sweater in “warm” weather? Do you have an iron deficiency?
They are not very thick and I like to party until 5am. Are you tucked up in bed at 9pm?
 

Pimpernel Smith

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A casual style worn by a style icon, Gary Cooper:

View attachment 37560
Dressed up like a million dollar trooper
Tryin' hard to look like Gary Cooper (super duper)...


These reeditions of jumpers sported by the Prince of Wales future king and drop-out from Tokyo's Adjustable Costume

Capture5.PNG


You can also get the argyle from here:

 

Panama

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Dressed up like a million dollar trooper
Tryin' hard to look like Gary Cooper (super duper)...


These reeditions of jumpers sported by the Prince of Wales future king and drop-out from Tokyo's Adjustable Costume

View attachment 37748

You can also get the argyle from here:

Edward was a customer of Alan Paine...
 

ballmouse

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301
This was the original thread: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/group-buy-turtlenecks-made-in-nyc.661438.

It's the same rollneck I posted images of earlier in this thread. I used merino and it was very, very nice. Honestly I guess I was used to cheap merino because I was shocked how luxurious this felt. Yes they feel different than my vintage lambswool/cashmere sweaters, but they did feel good. I can't remember the last time any contemporary sweater felt this good in my hands. Most sweaters, even high end ones, feel cheap compared to vintage. But these did not.

Was able to get a nice saddle shoulder (rare to find these days) like your vintage sweater and got the neck to look decent (your modern turtleneck often has too much material and is too loose - my guess is that most brands now use the same specs for womens sweaters and mens sweaters, hence the set in sleeve and excess material in the neck). Also got the sweater to a more vintage length so unlike modern sweaters it doesn't reach the hips.

The yarn was from Maine and the factory in NY. Just needed to tweak a few things on the specs, so I wanted to gauge interest for the heck of it. Was willing to make whatever sizes needed as we'd grade the original and go from there.

I didn't update you all here, but due to the COVID the factory I was working with couldn't assist me anymore (they downsized and refocused to existing production runs instead of new ones).

I found another factory in NYC. Still tweaking the pattern. They're limiting me to 2 colors for production run though as I'm not making very many units. One will definitely be navy. The other turtleneck color I've yet to decide. Just curious what color would interest you. Here's a picture of the available colors. The photos of the sweater in the SF thread are of a different blue (Admiral).

04132019-213151_2.png
 

florisgreen

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I didn't update you all here, but due to the COVID the factory I was working with couldn't assist me anymore (they downsized and refocused to existing production runs instead of new ones).

I found another factory in NYC. Still tweaking the pattern. They're limiting me to 2 colors for production run though as I'm not making very many units. One will definitely be navy. The other turtleneck color I've yet to decide. Just curious what color would interest you. Here's a picture of the available colors. The photos of the sweater in the SF thread are of a different blue (Admiral).

View attachment 37934
Interesting. Can you provide more details (price, ply number, gauge)?
I would choose Pumpkin, Fuchsia and Royal.

Is this you turtleneck jumper?

L2VJSlZ.jpg
 

ballmouse

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301
Sure!

That was the previous sample. The latest one is slightly trimmer (you can't exactly tell, but the sweater in the photo is far too large). I'll get a photo of the newest one when I get a chance.

Price: I'm thinking in the $160 range. If I were to sell for retail it would probably be around $250. But I'm trying to keep it as low as I can to just it out there because I think it's a very nice made in USA sweater in a style that you don't find too often (the amount of too long turtlenecks with set in sleeves and flaccid necks makes me think most factories take women's turtlenecks and sell them as mens).
Ply: the yarn is 2 ply and the knitting is with 2 ends. I guess you could say that's ~4 ply. But the technical term would be 2 ply yarn knit with 2 ends.
Gauge: 8

Interesting. Can you provide more details (price, ply number, gauge)?
I would choose Pumpkin, Fuchsia and Royal.

Is this you turtleneck jumper?
 

The Shooman

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Report.....

I've had my Borrelli cashmere jumper for two years now, and yet it hasn't pilled one little bit. It is made from really beautiful high quality cashmere. One of my most worn pieces of knitwear. Probably made by Loro Piana. Amazing quality.

Wore my excellent boiled wool Dachstein over a 3 ply cashmere skivvy outside tonight in the freezing cold night. Keep me warm as toast....really heavy duty knitwear that does the heavy lifting. The felt Lock cap also kept my head warm.
 

florisgreen

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I've had my Borrelli cashmere jumper for two years now, and yet it hasn't pilled one little bit. It is made from really beautiful high quality cashmere. One of my most worn pieces of knitwear. Probably made by Loro Piana. Amazing quality.
What's it for a style? Cardigan, crewneck, veeneck, turtleneck? How many plies? Pictures?
 

The Shooman

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What's it for a style? Cardigan, crewneck, veeneck, turtleneck? How many plies? Pictures?

It is a style l never thought i'd like because it is more modern with a small zipper at the front, but it turns out to be my most worn piece of knitwear. When I first wake up l often put this on if it is slightly cool, and l find myself often wearing this most mornings because it is easy to put on over a t-shirt. My face is unshaven after a night sleep, so turtlenecks are no good to wear, so a zip front jumper, cashmere polo or polo with a cableknit over it is ideal.

This is a beautiful rich deep burnt rust orange, and a good solid 2 - 3 ply. As usual, l have been wearing it too much of late and will need to start wearing more polos. Long sleeve polos are great for putting on when l first wake up too. If it is extra chilly i'll slip on the 10 ply cashmere cableknit by Malo over it or the 6 ply William Lockies.

Eventhough a zip front and polo isn't my favourite knitwear, they get the most use. Quite ironic. I really need to get more zip fronts and cashmere polos.

I haven't pulled out my Malo 10 ply yet, but l am going to start wearing it again. It is yet another jumper that can become a morning habit where it can be worn nearly every morning for weeks on end. I really enjoy my knitwear. Saw a vintage Ballantyne zip front recently, but too cheap to buy it. Grr.

Borrelli cashmere jumper 1.jpg
 

The Shooman

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My Malo 10 ply. It is one of my favourites.
Malo - 8 ply 3.jpg

Of course my Ballantyne 6 ply cardigan and McGeorge 6 - 8 ply cardigan is better, but the Malo is very respectable. The Malo is similar to William Lockie 6 ply cableknits...same in quality, but beefier because it is a heavier ply. Lockie 2 plys aren't as beefy as the Malo 2 ply, both similiar quality again, but Malo gets the edge in 2 ply knitwear (my limited opinion).
 

florisgreen

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It is a style l never thought i'd like because it is more modern with a small zipper at the front, but it turns out to be my most worn piece of knitwear. When I first wake up l often put this on if it is slightly cool, and l find myself often wearing this most mornings because it is easy to put on over a t-shirt. My face is unshaven after a night sleep, so turtlenecks are no good to wear, so a zip front jumper, cashmere polo or polo with a cableknit over it is ideal.

This is a beautiful rich deep burnt rust orange, and a good solid 2 - 3 ply. As usual, l have been wearing it too much of late and will need to start wearing more polos. Long sleeve polos are great for putting on when l first wake up too. If it is extra chilly i'll slip on the 10 ply cashmere cableknit by Malo over it or the 6 ply William Lockies.

Eventhough a zip front and polo isn't my favourite knitwear, they get the most use. Quite ironic. I really need to get more zip fronts and cashmere polos.

I haven't pulled out my Malo 10 ply yet, but l am going to start wearing it again. It is yet another jumper that can become a morning habit where it can be worn nearly every morning for weeks on end. I really enjoy my knitwear. Saw a vintage Ballantyne zip front recently, but too cheap to buy it. Grr.

View attachment 38107
It looks nice, beautiful colour and thick knit. I'm not a fan of zippers, but have to admit that they can be practical. Nevertheless I'll always prefer buttons.
 

The Shooman

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It looks nice, beautiful colour and thick knit. I'm not a fan of zippers, but have to admit that they can be practical. Nevertheless I'll always prefer buttons.

Yes, buttons are more traditional looking, and they look better. I must admit l need to be careful when using the zip, things could go wrong if l don't take care . Always unzip using 2 hands, NOT 1 hand. I must admit however, l have used 1 hand on numerous occasions when using the zip, but it is asking for trouble.
 

The Shooman

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This knit looks gorgeous, thick and dense, also nice colour. Is it a shawl collar? What material are the buttons?

Is it like this one?


That green one is just a crewneck jumper. Been wearing it a fair bit lately.

Btw, l bought this wool shawl cardigan. Will be a good everyday muck around cardigan. Could be a 4 ply, but may even be a 6 ply if l am lucky. The cardigan is supposed to be very nice, and given the reputation of the Dunhill Tailoring family it will likely be very good indeed.

Dunhill Tailors - made-in-Scotland.
Dunhill shawl cardigan.jpgDunhill shawl cardigan 1.jpg


More on the legendary Dunhill Tailors:
 

The Shooman

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I tried bidding on this Sulka, but the bloke wants a truckload of $$$$ for it. I get a feeling it would be much better than the Crompton 12 ply, and likely better than the Scott & Charters. From the early 90's, and probably from a top maker.

If l did buy it, would be over $3,000 ASD. Probably worth it, but a lot to pay for a cardigan. Then again, an opportunity like this might not ever come up like this again, BUT l am guessing it is a 12 ply (the seller doesn't know), but he says it is the thickest cashmere knitwear he has ever handled, but if it turns out to be only a 6 ply l would have been shafted. It is a risk for sure. Given it is a Sulka who was known for selling 12 ply, the risk might pay off, but it is a high price for unknown details.
Sulka shawl cardigan navy.jpg

Whoever is selling this cardigan, he obviously wants to live a Donald Trump lifestyle. He has $$$$ in his eyes. He lives for money. All his stuff is high price. Do l play ball and feed this guy's lifestyle, or do l learn to live without some of the nicer things. Frankly, I don't like the idea of paying for this guy's Rolls Royce.

It is different when trying something on in person and paying the premium compared to buying something with unknown details online from a $$$$ obsessed bloke.
 

The Shooman

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I found this website, which sells vintage clothing, possibly interesting for you, The Shooman The Shooman .

Combray: https://www.lecombray.com/about

Thanks for posting. I like vintage knitwear the most.

I think l just worked out who made my Tom Ford turtleneck. Looks like Harley of Scotland made it.

Harley of Scotland

(same rounded shoulders and style as the made-in-U.K Tom ford, I saw photos almost the same as the Harley, but don't have them))
(Also looks to be the same knit density...pics not shown...not too dense)
Harley of Scotland turtleneck.jpg
Harley - same turtleneck part. Notice the ribbing and how it is attached

Harley of Scotland turtleneck 1.jpg


Tom Ford made in U.K. The same unique rounded shape of the Harley.
Tom Ford cashmere turtleneck 1.jpg
Tom Ford - notice the way the turtleneck part is attached. The same as Harley of Scotland.

Tom Ford cashmere turtleneck 2.jpg
 

florisgreen

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My herd of camels:

Malo crewnecks

20210529_130638.jpg
20210518_180658.jpg



Helmut Lang veenecks

20210529_130909.jpg
20210529_130752.jpg



Alan Paine veeneck with saddle-shoulders

20210529_130836.jpg



Except the Alan Paine they are all pretty old (around 20 years). That is my only black jumper: I never wear black, but it's a really nice knit, dense, light and warm. I'm considering to buy more camels, among them certainly a cardigan.
 

The Shooman

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I never wear black, but black v neck jumpers and shoes are the exception. A black v neck can look very classic.
 

The Shooman

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There’s a bunch of vintage Ballantyne on eBay UK right now.

The Ballantynes have gone to their highest prices ever on ebay. The average used to be $50 for years, but in the last 8 months the average is about $200. The jumpers stay on ebay for a long time because the sellers are asking far more than the market price. The problem arose because a few sellers started bumping up prices after seeing some of the other sellers asking for more money, and now there are is an explosion of sellers asking for prices they are not likely to get.

A $50 Ballantyne will sell no problems.
A $80 Ballantyne takes longer to sell, the market is much less.
A $160 Ballantyne can stay on ebay for years. etc

A $350 Hermes made-in-Scotland 2 ply will sell quickly, and are very rare.
Shawl cardigans will sell for higher prices usually.
 

florisgreen

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The Ballantynes have gone to their highest prices ever on ebay. The average used to be $50 for years, but in the last 8 months the average is about $200. The jumpers stay on ebay for a long time because the sellers are asking far more than the market price. The problem arose because a few sellers started bumping up prices after seeing some of the other sellers asking for more money, and now there are is an explosion of sellers asking for prices they are not likely to get.

A $50 Ballantyne will sell no problems.
A $80 Ballantyne takes longer to sell, the market is much less.
A $160 Ballantyne can stay on ebay for years. etc

A $350 Hermes made-in-Scotland 2 ply will sell quickly, and are very rare.
Shawl cardigans will sell for higher prices usually.
Personally I would be more than happy to buy an old Ballantyne, never worn, at $300, or possibly more. $200 for a worn item is instead a steep price, even in good shape.
 

belinmad

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robertito

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Size 46 and yellow/carmine red, I would say not a best seller...

please find for me a NWT size 42 and navy for the same price or GBP 50.00, please .

.
 

The Shooman

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Wow, l never saw those when l checked u.k ebay. Sadly they don't send to Oz.
 
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