WDYBT: What Did You Buy Today

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
443
Kiton, Rubinacci, Borrelli, Barba, Camiceria Piccolo, Salvatore Piccolo, Luca Avitabile, Merolla, Golia, Starita, G.Inglese, Xacus, Delsiena, Ingram, Brancaccio Caruso, Bagutta, Guglielminotti and for sure I forget some.

D'Avino? Matuozzo?
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
429
D'Avino? Matuozzo?

I would like to try D'Avino not because I'm not happy with the fit or handwork of my shirts from Golia but only to try some unusual details (snap buttons) and Riva fabrics. Trying Matuozzo would be only for the sake of collecting all the big names. Same with Avitabile.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
7,118
I haven't had any English shirt since I gifted a couple of T.M.Lewin I had to a friend around 10 years ago. Since then, I only bought Spanish badspoke (that I don't wear anymore) and then Italian (mostly Neapolitan) that can be bought either bespoke or RTW from 80 to 350 euro with lots of handmade details. Am I missing something with English shirts?
Yes: Turnbull & Asser.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
443
I would like to try D'Avino not because I'm not happy with the fit or handwork of my shirts from Golia but only to try some unusual details (snap buttons) and Riva fabrics. Trying Matuozzo would be only for the sake of collecting all the big names. Same with Avitabile.

You and I need to meet in Napoli and go on a shopping spree, as soon as covid-possible :)
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
443
Yes: Turnbull & Asser.
I think the point aristoi bcn aristoi bcn is trying to understand if it's worth paying >250 on RtW in the UK when you can get 1.5 bespoke shirts in Italy or Spain for that money. And in my opinion the answer is no.
Budd, Emma Willis and T&A are all good options with excellent quality (for the most part) across RtW, MTO and bespoke, but in all instances, the "value for money" angle comes short - you can get better quality bespoke for much cheaper elsewhere.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
7,118
I think the point aristoi bcn aristoi bcn is trying to understand if it's worth paying >250 on RtW in the UK when you can get 1.5 bespoke shirts in Italy or Spain for that money. And in my opinion the answer is no.
Budd, Emma Willis and T&A are all good options with excellent quality (for the most part) across RtW, MTO and bespoke, but in all instances, the "value for money" angle comes short - you can get better quality bespoke for much cheaper elsewhere.
Are you referring to bespoke shirts in Italy and Spain with fittings? Or more MTM.

Budd and particularly Emma Willis are not in the same league as T&A.

I don't think anyone does the peacock shirt as good as T&A. The seasonal checks and stripes are unique runs, but you also have to factor in whether that look, where the shirt dominates, that English cut is what you are looking for. They are expensive as pointed out and more so with import duties that I've recently experienced.

In my pre-lockdown travels which included several trips to Italy each year, to Milan/Bergamo and Florence/Tuscany, I certainly don't see Italy as a cost effective solution for RTW in local tailors and outfitters, it's the same price as in the Netherlands. But you do have access to traditional men's outfitters in abundance there.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
443
Langa te tanga!

e. the worst untailor of (at least) Spain whose pics are on the walls of the elite tailoring schools of the world as prove of TAILORING ABERRATION etc. see e.g. here https://www.dressedwell.net/threads...-to-be-tackies-exposed.1733/page-3#post-90466 and elsewhere too bad Sarto can't explain

Mariano Langa has been making shirts for most of Madrid’s upper class for over 50 years. He’s made over 20 shirts for me and they are all outstanding quality. He is one of the 2 best known and well respected shirt makers in Madrid (the other pne being Camiseria Burgos).
Dont know who Sarto is, but that review is bollocks. Whether he invented or not a specific cuff is irrelevant. A shirt maker is about quality and consistency, and Mariano has both.
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
429
Are you referring to bespoke shirts in Italy and Spain with fittings? Or more MTM.

Budd and particularly Emma Willis are not in the same league as T&A.

I don't think anyone does the peacock shirt as good as T&A. The seasonal checks and stripes are unique runs, but you also have to factor in whether that look, where the shirt dominates, that English cut is what you are looking for. They are expensive as pointed out and more so with import duties that I've recently experienced.

In my pre-lockdown travels which included several trips to Italy each year, to Milan/Bergamo and Florence/Tuscany, I certainly don't see Italy as a cost effective solution for RTW in local tailors and outfitters, it's the same price as in the Netherlands. But you do have access to traditional men's outfitters in abundance there.

Where does T&A stands out in comparison to Budd and EW?

You mention the cloth range and the English cut as the added value of T&A as a shirtmaker. I can see the value of their exclusive cloths but do not really know what do you mean with "English cut" in this case. A RTW shirt can look good on you depending on the pattern they use but this is something that becomes irrelevant when you go bespoke.

I have ordered remotely from Golia several times and the shirts came exactly as the previous ones delivered. 100% consistency in my case. Same case with Marco Cerrato for trousers.
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
286
Are you referring to bespoke shirts in Italy and Spain with fittings? Or more MTM.

Budd and particularly Emma Willis are not in the same league as T&A.

I don't think anyone does the peacock shirt as good as T&A. The seasonal checks and stripes are unique runs, but you also have to factor in whether that look, where the shirt dominates, that English cut is what you are looking for. They are expensive as pointed out and more so with import duties that I've recently experienced.

In my pre-lockdown travels which included several trips to Italy each year, to Milan/Bergamo and Florence/Tuscany, I certainly don't see Italy as a cost effective solution for RTW in local tailors and outfitters, it's the same price as in the Netherlands. But you do have access to traditional men's outfitters in abundance there.
Emma Willis and Budd both use Alumo.
I have no idea where T&A source their fabric? Italy, Austria, Portugal, Slovenia, Czech Republic, Turkey?

I just Googled some of the independent fabric manufacturers and they haven't survived the global pandemic. It appears Nyklíček has closed.

I am not a fan of most of T&A designs. I have a few, but cocktail cuffs can be found elsewhere now. I have a few EW shirts, who luckily offer me good discounts. I haven't tried Budd yet.

Emma Willis Sea Island cotton


20210302_105301.jpg
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
7,118
the ones I mentioned (Golia in Naples, Langa and Fernadez Prats in Madrid) are 130-170 bespoke (with 2-3 fittings and test shirts)
That's certainly very cost effective. Well done.
Where does T&A stands out in comparison to Budd and EW?

You mention the cloth range and the English cut as the added value of T&A as a shirtmaker. I can see the value of their exclusive cloths but do not really know what do you mean with "English cut" in this case. A RTW shirt can look good on you depending on the pattern they use but this is something that becomes irrelevant when you go bespoke.

I have ordered remotely from Golia several times and the shirts came exactly as the previous ones delivered. 100% consistency in my case. Same case with Marco Cerrato for trousers.
T&A is completely different to Budd and EW. Different vibe and aesthetic, especially collar and cuffs. The exclusive runs are a big attraction. Also the peacock shirt checks and stripes. At least for me. When you wear that in your face shirting, you need to tone everything else down. The shirt is the look.

I'm not convinced bespoke is needed for shirts, certainly for my straight up and down build. There's a couple of places here in The Hague where you can do fittings and fully bespoke but it will set you back nearly €400 for the average shirt cloth. You wash it and bring it back and do all the trial fits. You also need to pay-up front.

The King's tailor will do MTM for around €195, they all use the same Persian shirtmaker. So I use them, and I don't have to pay up front. Overall I prefer T&A RTW. Although I dig a bit of a mix.

Emma Willis and Budd both use Alumo.
I have no idea where T&A source their fabric? Italy, Austria, Portugal, Slovenia, Czech Republic, Turkey?

I just Googled some of the independent fabric manufacturers and they haven't survived the global pandemic. It appears Nyklíček has closed.

I am not a fan of most of T&A designs. I have a few, but cocktail cuffs can be found elsewhere now. I have a few EW shirts, who luckily offer me good discounts. I haven't tried Budd yet.

Emma Willis Sea Island cotton


View attachment 36830
Historically and now, T&A source from Thomas Mason, with some exceptions. There was cloth from German or Austrian (can't remember which) mill last year. The design of checks and stripes use to painted and that was then sent to the mill.

Classical menswear is going to end up like an obscure Japanese marshal art. Practised by a small in-the-know priesthood.
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
286
I hadn't heard of the King's Taylor. I lived in Amstelveen for 5 years. It doesn't appear to have been too far away.
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
286
That's certainly very cost effective. Well done.

T&A is completely different to Budd and EW. Different vibe and aesthetic, especially collar and cuffs. The exclusive runs are a big attraction. Also the peacock shirt checks and stripes. At least for me. When you wear that in your face shirting, you need to tone everything else down. The shirt is the look.

I'm not convinced bespoke is needed for shirts, certainly for my straight up and down build. There's a couple of places here in The Hague where you can do fittings and fully bespoke but it will set you back nearly €400 for the average shirt cloth. You wash it and bring it back and do all the trial fits. You also need to pay-up front.

The King's tailor will do MTM for around €195, they all use the same Persian shirtmaker. So I use them, and I don't have to pay up front. Overall I prefer T&A RTW. Although I dig a bit of a mix.


Historically and now, T&A source from Thomas Mason, with some exceptions. There was cloth from German or Austrian (can't remember which) mill last year. The design of checks and stripes use to painted and that was then sent to the mill.

Classical menswear is going to end up like an obscure Japanese marshal art. Practised by a small in-the-know priesthood.

The majority of Albini production is outside of Italy in the Czech Republic and Egypt. They just closed the Tessitura di Mottola mill.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
7,118
The majority of Albini production is outside of Italy in the Czech Republic and Egypt. They just closed the Tessitura di Mottola mill.
I didn't know that, thanks. The names are just brands now - to a certain degree. I know the Albini Group got all the historic designs from Thomas Mason. Does it really matter where it's made? Yes and no, and weighted towards no, if the quality is there and the workers are not exploited.

There was in my home town a clothes sweatshop that specialised in short runs and very fast. That business model worked up until 20 years ago. Those ladies who worked there, generally from those who joined the workforce at 15/16, earned with piecework, much higher than the average wage. Those kind of places served a purpose back in the day. Now it's all gone. Not sure it's better or worse.
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
429
That's certainly very cost effective. Well done.

T&A is completely different to Budd and EW. Different vibe and aesthetic, especially collar and cuffs. The exclusive runs are a big attraction. Also the peacock shirt checks and stripes. At least for me. When you wear that in your face shirting, you need to tone everything else down. The shirt is the look.

I'm not convinced bespoke is needed for shirts, certainly for my straight up and down build. There's a couple of places here in The Hague where you can do fittings and fully bespoke but it will set you back nearly €400 for the average shirt cloth. You wash it and bring it back and do all the trial fits. You also need to pay-up front.

The King's tailor will do MTM for around €195, they all use the same Persian shirtmaker. So I use them, and I don't have to pay up front. Overall I prefer T&A RTW. Although I dig a bit of a mix.


Historically and now, T&A source from Thomas Mason, with some exceptions. There was cloth from German or Austrian (can't remember which) mill last year. The design of checks and stripes use to painted and that was then sent to the mill.

Classical menswear is going to end up like an obscure Japanese marshal art. Practised by a small in-the-know priesthood.

Kiton has some shirting cloths that are very particular without being showy, mainly made by Riva and other top italian mills. You should try Kiton and then compare to T&A. Price should be around the same, maybe a bit more. Kiton RTW fit is quite generous for Italian standards. Their shirts fit me very well in the shoulders and neck but very long in the body (not a problem when tucked in) and in the arms (a bit of a concern but what can you do) and even with these downsides I like to wear my Kiton shirts because their collars are great and the cloth magnificent.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
443
Kiton has some shirting cloths that are very particular without being showy, mainly made by Riva and other top italian mills. You should try Kiton and then compare to T&A. Price should be around the same, maybe a bit more. Kiton RTW fit is quite generous for Italian standards. Their shirts fit me very well in the shoulders and neck but very long in the body (not a problem when tucked in) and in the arms (a bit of a concern but what can you do) and even with these downsides I like to wear my Kiton shirts because their collars are great and the cloth magnificent.
where do you get them from?
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
286
I have selected five new unworn shirts for next week, although the bottom white Batiste was replaced by a white Royal Oxford...

20210410_230904.jpg
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
3,244
Also bought the Lock & Co flat cap in navy felt.
Lock felt cap.jpg

I know you don't like it Journeyman Journeyman , but l think it will be perfect to wear with my navy blazer. As my hair is quite grey now, it will be a good top base to work with shoos and coat. I am one of those low contrast people, so l need more hats these days.

Customer service is the worst l know of. I've send several emails and only had a response once, l really don't understand it. Luckily enough the bloke told me to size up to get a decent fit without it being too tight.

If this work i'll definitely be getting this next. Will go great with my camel coloured overcoat for Winter.
Lock felt cap brown.jpg

I will eventually get this Trilby.
Lock Trilby.jpg

I think a nice little hat collection of about 10 hats would be good. Maybe another Trilby in brown, another panama hat, a boater hat, and a few more flat caps with patterns on them. NO fedoras.
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
286
Also bought the Lock & Co flat cap in navy felt.
View attachment 36908

I know you don't like it Journeyman Journeyman , but l think it will be perfect to wear with my navy blazer. As my hair is quite grey now, it will be a good top base to work with shoos and coat. I am one of those low contrast people, so l need more hats these days.

Customer service is the worst l know of. I've send several emails and only had a response once, l really don't understand it. Luckily enough the bloke told me to size up to get a decent fit without it being too tight.

If this work i'll definitely be getting this next. Will go great with my camel coloured overcoat for Winter.
View attachment 36912

I will eventually get this Trilby.
View attachment 36913

I think a nice little hat collection of about 10 hats would be good. Maybe another Trilby in brown, another panama hat, a boater hat, and a few more flat caps with patterns on them. NO fedoras.
I reccomend Lawrence and Foster for flat caps. I go direct to the factory in Castleford.
 

florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
696
Also bought the Lock & Co flat cap in navy felt.
View attachment 36908

I know you don't like it Journeyman Journeyman , but l think it will be perfect to wear with my navy blazer. As my hair is quite grey now, it will be a good top base to work with shoos and coat. I am one of those low contrast people, so l need more hats these days.

Customer service is the worst l know of. I've send several emails and only had a response once, l really don't understand it. Luckily enough the bloke told me to size up to get a decent fit without it being too tight.

If this work i'll definitely be getting this next. Will go great with my camel coloured overcoat for Winter.
View attachment 36912

I will eventually get this Trilby.
View attachment 36913

I think a nice little hat collection of about 10 hats would be good. Maybe another Trilby in brown, another panama hat, a boater hat, and a few more flat caps with patterns on them. NO fedoras.
Can I ask you why no fedoras? I have just fedoras, even though I'm planning to get some homburgs.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
443
I reccomend Lawrence and Foster for flat caps. I go direct to the factory in Castleford.
second the recommendation. great quality and good price. I got them to do some with other fabrics through a friend who owns a fabrics' brand.
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
816
I would like to try D'Avino not because I'm not happy with the fit or handwork of my shirts from Golia but only to try some unusual details (snap buttons) and Riva fabrics. Trying Matuozzo would be only for the sake of collecting all the big names. Same with Avitabile.


Call Sarto for top Riva fabrics, maybe he also can sell you a bootleg Carlos Rivas 12 inches vinyl.
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
816
Mariano Langa has been making shirts for most of Madrid’s upper class for over 50 years. He’s made over 20 shirts for me and they are all outstanding quality. He is one of the 2 best known and well respected shirt makers in Madrid (the other pne being Camiseria Burgos).
Dont know who Sarto is, but that review is bollocks. Whether he invented or not a specific cuff is irrelevant. A shirt maker is about quality and consistency, and Mariano has both.


Troll of the year or real poster?

Mariano is the second worse shirtmaker we have ever seen in Naples. Curiously the worst ever is Burgos.

Mariano was trained there, so is a subgenre, endogamy.

The cutter of Burgos says he learnt this minimun 5 years 14h per day work on "a few days".

Would you go to get a kidney transplant to a so called surgeon who learnt in a weekend but is less than a “shaman” or tarotist?

All this premises are way ridiculous and we can´t believe how those 2 fakers yet fool people with their only marketing “ we dress the counts, kings and so on”.

He has been doing shits not shirts for the upper class while taking their fresh cash.

That is the only thing they do, showing off their clientele to hook people with deep complexes.

In Naples only the low quality ones do show their clientele, the real ones got honour and dignity and by any reason would show off as any doctor show off their patiences.

And let me tell you, Sarto have handled patterns even shoe lasts for the most rich people in the world in some of those places, and by any reason me or any of them would tell their names.

Do you feel less dignous that any of those “upper class” so you need to tell, I go to the tailor of the King, instead of showing, see this top notch garment, is simply the best made I have ever seen, nope, because in Madrid, only expensive faily garments are made and they are the laughs of the real tailors around the world, for the pretentious and lack of humildty and honour they are, simply smartaleckers, Far wEST tonic sellers.

Those only fool untrained people who has never seen a proper shirt or knows what a proper fit is.

Tanga never invented a cuff, the so called invented cuff existed decades before as seen on 007 films with Sean Connery as Sarto Expossed.

Just a big mouth for tackys, noveau riches and ignorants.

Could you please put a pic of the fit of any of those 20 shirts, so Sarto, one who has been trained by the real best Neapolitan shirtmakers ( Borrelli and so others) can expose the tons of fails?

Mariano lacks of quality and knowledge, same as his trainees as that young man so called “ master tailor”.

Sarto once called “the best shirt makers of the world” Burgos Madrid asking for Carlo Riva.

The owner did not know what was it.

That is the “quality” of the “best shoemakers in the world”, a real laugh for tackys and pretentious who are scammed by the marketing used by this caffones. Only watching a simple button of those unshirts ( cheap quality) and poorly made buttonholes,
that can´t be taking seriously.

A 3 star Michelin restaurant who ignores what a VegaSicilia wine is?

Can you imagine that?

Well, that is Tanga or Burgos, with the difference they are not a 3 star, but a “Paco´s Bar” ( cheapo in a random corner bar) as are called there, a “chiringuito”.

Like comparing a vintage v12 Jaguar with a Seat Marbella, the issue is that this scammers ask more money for their Marbella than a real top shirtmaker for a Jaguar, and you seem one of those, sorry for you my friend, I wish you weren´t, but I think you are.

Reading blogs as those from Spain got this side effects, people buys expensive crap but believes are wearing the best of the best and do the ridicule in the eyes of trained and pro people.

If any shirt as those made by “Tanga” were delivered to a Neapolitan person, I am pretty sure the shop will be shooted or burn that same night by deep “truffa” ( scam) and insult to the people.

Anyway, people in Spain pays 15 euros for a “Telepizza” brand chemically toxic pizza copied from Pizza Hut ( Pizza shit) brand, while in Naples you get for 4 simply the best ones of the world.

Best of luck with Langa te tanga and please, do post pics of the fit of those shirts when you get some spare time.



To be master tailor a real tailor has to study over 10 years and pass a real exam made by the best real master tailors.

In Spain there is any real master tailor alive, the real ones died decades ago and were not scammers, pretentious and fakers as all this fakers who, let me tell you, in Naples won´t ever pass of shirt ironers, in case they even could arrive to that, thing that I doubt after having inspected their “quality garments” and being the laughs of the real shirtmakers of Naples.

The word said for those on the real Alta Sartoria schools was “ Caffone”.

That is the word for people who never wore a suit before, and in some wedding are like disguissed on a suit.

Those are deep caffones.
 
Last edited:

robertito

Well-Known Member
Messages
975
Anyway, people in Spain pays 15 euros for a “Telepizza” brand chemically toxic pizza copied from Pizza Hut ( Pizza shit) brand, while in Naples you get for 4 simply the best ones of the world.
Is pizza in Naples pineapple free?
The Animation Workshop Burn GIF by GIFASTIC
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
443
what I said, troll of the year.

Please post pics of the fit of Langa or shut up forever.
I’ll post whatever I want whenever I want to, thank you, living a happy life, enjoying my beautiful Spanish shirts, and having fun with the inconsequential exchanges fed by little trolls like you, dear. Now go back to your corner.
 
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