WDYBT: What Did You Buy Today

Pauly Chase

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Or you could decipher it by thinking about what footwear products Salamon makes and that GTX is gore-tex.

So high top light hiker style boots with a Gore-Tex membrane. Level of hideousness depends on your view. Of course priced higher than a non-collab Salomon boot.

The black or grey colour ways might look good with your leopard lounge pants belinmad. Maybe even the white.

Always spitting knowledge. Mine are crazy color choice, cold dyed so should age well
 

Arnathor

The Hamiltonian Hung Like a Horse
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2 half yards of cotton fabric. Working on mitred corners for pocket squares - it is tricky, but I'm getting it.
 

Lumpen

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673
130 different brands of double razor blades out of Sweden, yes I am hysterical

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Pauly Chase

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LV zippy wallet in black leather and David Yurman chain link bracelet. Both for SO.

Feeling so broken right now, never paid this much money for "designer" brands.
 

Rambo

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LV zippy wallet in black leather and David Yurman chain link bracelet. Both for SO.

Feeling so broken right now, never paid this much money for "designer" brands.
Its amazing how much youre willing to spend to look like a lesbian
 

güero

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802
Ordered something like 20-25 shirts from Brooks Brothers, now that their factory seems to have closed. Hopefully this will last for a while.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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6,595
These two T&A shirts, which I am assured will arrive before any kind of disruption regarding Brexit with or without a deal:

ABSR0002-1169-06_C3.jpg


SHI002-HH3863_C2.jpg


I went off base this year and explored some non-T&A options, other than Cordings for a more soft brushed cotton big check look, it all ended in cheap shoddy dead ends with crappy buttons, boy sized corsets around the wrist and the same off-shored mass produced shirts being branded under every nearly ran Jermyn street shirt maker.

Never shall I make that mistake again!
 
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Lumpen

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673
These two T&A shirts, which I am assured will arrive before any kind of disruption regarding Brexit with or without a deal:

View attachment 35830

View attachment 35831

I went off base this year and explored some non-T&A options, other than Cordings for a more soft brushed cotton big check look, it all ended in cheap shoddy dead ends with crappy buttons, boy sized corsets around the wrist and the same off-shored mass produced shirts being branded under every nearly ran Jermyn street shirt maker.

Never shall I make that mistake again!


The last one is very kitonesque, in fact they use the same button but looks plastic on the pic
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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3,019
I thought you said Dugdale fabric was shit?

I originally said that because one of my dugdale wool trousers wore quickly at the crotch, and they use that fabric at many MTM places and not at true bespoke places in Oz, so l always thought of it as the beginning step of nicer fabrics (entry level nice fabric).

But when l think about it l am probably wrong, all my other dugdale trousers have no issues, and l like some of the fabrics. My prince of wales check is fabulous. Frank Shattuck also speaks highly of it.
 

Journeyman

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These two T&A shirts, which I am assured will arrive before any kind of disruption regarding Brexit with or without a deal:

I went off base this year and explored some non-T&A options, other than Cordings for a more soft brushed cotton big check look, it all ended in cheap shoddy dead ends with crappy buttons, boy sized corsets around the wrist and the same off-shored mass produced shirts being branded under every nearly ran Jermyn street shirt maker.

Have you ever tried Hilditch & Key (H&K)?

I switched from UK to US and Italian makers years back, but my old H&K shirts were very nice and wore very well.

I still have one of my H&K made-to-order shirts but, unfortunately, the fabric has almost worn out where the collar meets the top of the collar band and so I hardly wear it as I want to protect it!

I originally said that because one of my dugdale wool trousers wore quickly at the crotch, and they use that fabric at many MTM places and not at true bespoke places in Oz, so l always thought of it as the beginning step of nicer fabrics (entry level nice fabric).

I think that wear in the "fork" of the trousers has much more to do with the following, rather than with the maker:
- Your gait;
- The thickness of your legs; and
- The type (not maker) of fabric.

If you're wearing a softer fabric, or one with texture, it will wear more quickly. However, if you're wearing a firmer, smoother fabric, it will take much longer to wear, even if your legs rub together. I think that sweat (ie damp cloth) also makes that area wear out more quickly.

As an example, when I first started work, I had a really lovely pair of trousers in a brown birdseye weave, made from a wool-silk blend. They were really soft and had a great hand, but they wore out in about six months. Admittedly, I did a lot of walking as I was working at a university at that time, and frequently walked back and forth across the campus.

However, I have other pairs of trousers in smoother, "harder" weaves that I've been wearing for ten years or more and they're fine.

It's worth noting that if you have an additional piece of the same, or very similar, fabric your tailor can remove the worn fabric and sew the new fabric in to the area. As long as the worn/torn area is not large, the repair is totally unnoticeable (well, unless you really like to 'manspread' when you sit down).
 

Sammy Ambrose

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199
For a brand new pair of shoes bought yesterday they don’t have look wrinkled and worn.
Indeed. I think Shooey must be having a laugh. I suggested that the shoes must be the wrong shape for his feet to look so wrinkled already. But a closer look shows they are a well-worn pair of pennies. Well, actually a 'badly' worn pair of penny loafers.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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199
This is a loafer which I suspect may have been more suitable for Shooey's feet. Notice the low profile and narrow waist. It would not suit the fat of foot, but that is not how our shoo guru's paws look to me.
 

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Pimpernel Smith

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6,595
The last one is very kitonesque, in fact they use the same button but looks plastic on the pic
Kiton are crazy prices. They're MOP buttons and not sure the technique they use, it seems tight almost fused stitching, you'll never need worry about a T&A button coming off. The T&A unless you get them in the sale are crazy prices too. Those were Euros 570 with the shipping. Don't know how much their bespoke shirts are, but having straight-up-and-down fit, a standard 16.5 fits me great.

The film producer, Robert Evans, was a big fan in the 1970s and named dropped them in the Great Gatsby. He mentions that he decided to get his own T&A shirts copied in China town as that was a much more cost effective solution.

With delivery disruption likely, possible added import duties starting in January, plus that top shirt will likely be sold out in a day or two, I decided to pull the trigger last night.

Have you ever tried Hilditch & Key (H&K)?

I switched from UK to US and Italian makers years back, but my old H&K shirts were very nice and wore very well.

I still have one of my H&K made-to-order shirts but, unfortunately, the fabric has almost worn out where the collar meets the top of the collar band and so I hardly wear it as I want to protect it!

I haven't tried H&K, the only other Jermyn Street shirt maker I've bought from is Harvie & Hudson which I posted a couple of pages back. Not in the same league as T&A, but then again, neither was the price, I got three shirts for less than one T&A shirt. H&K look decent I might give them a go, if I see a shirt cloth and cotton I like.

After I'd finished with the Ivy League look, which I had explored thoroughly and got bored with I wanted a touch of the English peacock on the shirt front, but my old good to go Gieves and Hawkes had deteriorated with the Chinese owners into a dull upmarket man at C&A. So I got a couple of shirts in the sale from T&A and for the last 4 years I've bought quite a few dozen from them.

The T&A collar looks great with a tie and also san tie with a jacket. They're also good at hiding my neck scar which is an added bonus.
 

güero

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802
Have you ever tried Hilditch & Key (H&K)?

I switched from UK to US and Italian makers years back, but my old H&K shirts were very nice and wore very well.

I still have one of my H&K made-to-order shirts but, unfortunately, the fabric has almost worn out where the collar meets the top of the collar band and so I hardly wear it as I want to protect it!
I used to wear a lot of Hilditch & Key, still have a couple that I am using. I have bought from them only once since the change of ownership a couple of years ago. They have added lots of unnecessary and low-quality clothing to their line, prices have increased ridiculously and it seems most of their shirts are not made in England anymore. It's really a shame, they were my favorite when I started wearing shirts.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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3,019
Indeed. I think Shooey must be having a laugh. I suggested that the shoes must be the wrong shape for his feet to look so wrinkled already. But a closer look shows they are a well-worn pair of pennies. Well, actually a 'badly' worn pair of penny loafers.

The over exposure of the pic makes it look far worse. In reality my loafers are stunning with those creases not noticeable. I also used a high gloss shine which makes it look bad in the pics.

Sammy, you are wrong about everything.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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199
The over exposure of the pic makes it look far worse. In reality my loafers are stunning with those creases not noticeable. I also used a high gloss shine which makes it look bad in the pics.

Sammy, you are wrong about everything.
Shooey, Shooey! Have you forgotten H.C. Andersen?

 
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Sammy Ambrose

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199
A nice tune that one, very catchy.
I didn't mention the tune, Shooey. That's Hollywood. I mentioned Hans Christian Andersen and his cautionary tale of The Emperor's New Clothes. You know, emperors are those big daddies, but even they get conned by salemen who talk about 'magic'.
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
673
Kiton are crazy prices. They're MOP buttons and not sure the technique they use, it seems tight almost fused stitching, you'll never need worry about a T&A button coming off. The T&A unless you get them in the sale are crazy prices too. Those were Euros 570 with the shipping. Don't know how much their bespoke shirts are, but having straight-up-and-down fit, a standard 16.5 fits me great.

The film producer, Robert Evans, was a big fan in the 1970s and named dropped them in the Great Gatsby. He mentions that he decided to get his own T&A shirts copied in China town as that was a much more cost effective solution.

With delivery disruption likely, possible added import duties starting in January, plus that top shirt will likely be sold out in a day or two, I decided to pull the trigger last night.



I haven't tried H&K, the only other Jermyn Street shirt maker I've bought from is Harvie & Hudson which I posted a couple of pages back. Not in the same league as T&A, but then again, neither was the price, I got three shirts for less than one T&A shirt. H&K look decent I might give them a go, if I see a shirt cloth and cotton I like.

After I'd finished with the Ivy League look, which I had explored thoroughly and got bored with I wanted a touch of the English peacock on the shirt front, but my old good to go Gieves and Hawkes had deteriorated with the Chinese owners into a dull upmarket man at C&A. So I got a couple of shirts in the sale from T&A and for the last 4 years I've bought quite a few dozen from them.

The T&A collar looks great with a tie and also san tie with a jacket. They're also good at hiding my neck scar which is an added bonus.


Kiton shirts in Naples are from 240 euros, I have seen some tagged in 800 as well and the fabric was good but not top notch as the ones Sarto stocks. Bespoke +-300-400 if you go there in person. With top notch Riva fabrics were +- 350, so it´s ok considering just in fabric are 150 euros if you buy 3 meters of riva on a shop ( 90 cms width consumes 3 meters vs. 1,6 on rolls of 150cms )

It seems this Turnbull is tagginh high to compete with Kiton, so idiots say, hey the price is same so might be same. No way, Kiton got 18 hand passages and are simply the best shirt of the market while the other is machine sewed and average.

570 both or only one? Even having fabrics of 170/2 or 200/2 costing 35 to 50 euros meter if you buy those at cut service for tailors ( if you buy the full piece or order hundreds of meters I guess the price might go to the half?, and an industrial shirt has 1,6 meters since are way short, that price is a fraud. And most industrial shirts as Armani of 300 euros got fabrics of 40/2 costing 4 euros per meter maximun ( at tailor price, for factory price maybe 1-2 euros meter)

Wellcome to the fashion fraud, among with charlie that cost 3000 euros kilo on origin, one of the biggests scam of the history , add perfumes.
 

Mattrick

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103
I remember buying a Kiton shirt on Ebay and it still had the £995 Neiman Marcus tags. I'm not sure if that was as expensive as they get or if they have some priced even higher.

Personally I think other brands like Finamore have neater stitching.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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6,595
Kiton shirts in Naples are from 240 euros, I have seen some tagged in 800 as well and the fabric was good but not top notch as the ones Sarto stocks. Bespoke +-300-400 if you go there in person. With top notch Riva fabrics were +- 350, so it´s ok considering just in fabric are 150 euros if you buy 3 meters of riva on a shop ( 90 cms width consumes 3 meters vs. 1,6 on rolls of 150cms )

It seems this Turnbull is tagginh high to compete with Kiton, so idiots say, hey the price is same so might be same. No way, Kiton got 18 hand passages and are simply the best shirt of the market while the other is machine sewed and average.

570 both or only one? Even having fabrics of 170/2 or 200/2 costing 35 to 50 euros meter if you buy those at cut service for tailors ( if you buy the full piece or order hundreds of meters I guess the price might go to the half?, and an industrial shirt has 1,6 meters since are way short, that price is a fraud. And most industrial shirts as Armani of 300 euros got fabrics of 40/2 costing 4 euros per meter maximun ( at tailor price, for factory price maybe 1-2 euros meter)

Wellcome to the fashion fraud, among with charlie that cost 3000 euros kilo on origin, one of the biggests scam of the history , add perfumes.
570 for both. I wouldn't pay that much for one shirt. As I said, T&A is best in the sales and sometimes you can get them for just over a hundred bucks. But I'm not sure I have that choice this year with the possible fall out of a no-deal Brexit looming.

T&A markets itself on the range and exclusivity of the limited run shirt fabric designs and patterns, the made in England non-sweat shop credentials and as a heritage brand they plug their connections to the great and good, and of course, the James Bond stuff.

I've not had a better made RTW shirt, but I've not tried Kiton or Finamore.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
3,019
570 for both. I wouldn't pay that much for one shirt. As I said, T&A is best in the sales and sometimes you can get them for just over a hundred bucks. But I'm not sure I have that choice this year with the possible fall out of a no-deal Brexit looming.

T&A markets itself on the range and exclusivity of the limited run shirt fabric designs and patterns, the made in England non-sweat shop credentials and as a heritage brand they plug their connections to the great and good, and of course, the James Bond stuff.

I've not had a better made RTW shirt, but I've not tried Kiton or Finamore.

10 years ago T&A were $600 in Oz.
 

Sauce

Member
Messages
20
I've got a Kiton shirt via ebay, its nice not for the money. I thought the same when I've been in their Rome and Cannes stores. Finamore Milanos are nicer. Inglese are my first choice but its big bucks, and then the customs hit on top...nasty. Even with customs though Inglese is still way less then Kiton. I don't think any of the mentioned brands do a really good button down collar.
 

Thruth

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Seems Best Made Co. which had been pretending to go back to the workshop during COVID was actually being bought by Duluth Trading Company.

But that allowed me to buy one of their down-filled CPO shirt jackets and not for their $400 retail price.

70/30 poly/cotton outer with DWR and a soft hand. Good moisture shedding and wind-proofness. Traceable Allied brand 850+ fill power down. Reinforced elbows.

Wore it over a Polartec Thermal Pro fleece in and out of the truck at -28C windchill and it did nicely. Was good enough to get me to the barn and back at the same temp. But that was just testing limits.

Good for hours outside over the same fleece at -15C.

A nice bit of three-season SWD workwear kit.

D07E48DD-A034-4DFD-98A3-4D4A2500C01C.jpeg

1426487C-1175-439E-8189-1375B47C4C6B.jpeg
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
673
570 for both. I wouldn't pay that much for one shirt. As I said, T&A is best in the sales and sometimes you can get them for just over a hundred bucks. But I'm not sure I have that choice this year with the possible fall out of a no-deal Brexit looming.

T&A markets itself on the range and exclusivity of the limited run shirt fabric designs and patterns, the made in England non-sweat shop credentials and as a heritage brand they plug their connections to the great and good, and of course, the James Bond stuff.

I've not had a better made RTW shirt, but I've not tried Kiton or Finamore.


Finamore worths having, mostly are on Alumo cotton and on outlets are from 120$, maybe the 2nd best shirt after Borrelli and some times better to suit on omho, Kiton ones abuse of big fit for fatty rich newyorkers, even is the best ever shirt.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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6,595
Finamore worths having, mostly are on Alumo cotton and on outlets are from 120$, maybe the 2nd best shirt after Borrelli and some times better to suit on omho, Kiton ones abuse of big fit for fatty rich newyorkers, even is the best ever shirt.

Would need to see them in the flesh before pulling the trigger. My experience of recent Italian RTW shirts have been short on sleeve length, very exact sizing and pale comparisons to T&A. But I am referring to sub-100 Euro varieties.

The moment of truth is later today. With the closure of the tunnel and freight delays, I contacted T&A to advise them that they needed to refund me, or give me the sale price, as I wasn't likely to receive my shirts in time for my ''Çhristmas parties'' in which case might as well wait until the sales. They assured me it would not be impacted and the UPS tracker shows the shirts will arrive 24-Dec. We shall see.
 
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