Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

Lumpen

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941
Hugo's girl talks about how bad suits have collar gaps (agreed).

But l see so many big named suits with collar gaps. Look!

Even Hugo gets caught out here. His big named tailor made a suit for him, but look, Hugo gets busted. Collar pulls off side and back of his neck. Ouch.


Is this the true reality these days? What happened to those great tailors that made suits for those guys in the films during the 30's and 40's....don't those skills exist anymore?
"

Is this the true reality these days? What happened to those great tailors that made suits for those guys in the films during the 30's and 40's....don't those skills exist anymore?"

On the golden age of tailoring those who cutted and fitted were people who studied way longer as a Phd on cutting and also parts of anathomy to fit the body, also those cutters used to cut for men and women at once, as +80 years old Neapolitan masters.

On the last decades, cutters are mostly narcissistic idiots who lack of proper and real training ( in Spain the so called school of tailoring teaches on a few weeks what in Naples takes 10 years, so you can see the expect fails over and over)

On the golden age, this idiots as Tanga and the rest won´t scale on the best case from shirt presser, nothing more due to their lack of brain. Sad but true. Note suit presser is way more difficult, so they won´t ever qualify for it.

A normal tailoring house used to have at least 12 workers, hundreds on the best. The today so called masters won´t pass from best boys and coffee bringers on the golden age.

Sarto has expossed over and over pictures and examples of badspoke from the so called “best tailors in the world” or most pretentious scammers on the block and their bribeds bloggers as craptom or Parisian Skeletor.
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
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430
Still good spanish tailoring:

IMG-1716.jpg


IMG_1724.jpg


IMG_1722.jpg
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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3,583

Still good spanish tailoring:

IMG-1716.jpg


IMG_1724.jpg


IMG_1722.jpg

Now that is lovely tailoring. Those sleeves, that collar, that lapel roll, that style. Nice to see unknown tailors I have probably never heard of doing great work.

Lumpen Lumpen like you said, it seems like the secrets haven't been passed down from the old masters. The `so called' big names are big in name, but not so big in wow factor. I see lots of messy trousers too. A lot of tailors don't seem to make nice trousers.
 

Lumpen

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941
Still good spanish tailoring:

IMG-1716.jpg


IMG_1724.jpg


IMG_1722.jpg


Good tailoring that Tanga?

Mate the sleeves got tons of defects, and is ugly as the corrupted blogger who wears it ( Sarto knows him personally)

That unjacket has less style than ( fill this sentence with your random words)

Looks from a disguise.

Would you trust an insurance agent dressed that way? No way!
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
941
Now that is lovely tailoring. Those sleeves, that collar, that lapel roll, that style. Nice to see unknown tailors I have probably never heard of doing great work.

Lumpen Lumpen like you said, it seems like the secrets haven't been passed down from the old masters. The `so called' big names are big in name, but not so big in wow factor. I see lots of messy trousers too. A lot of tailors don't seem to make nice trousers.

Mate that unjacket is a crime against humanity!

Just watching it reduced my life expectance in 6 hours out of the stress!
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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Mate the sleeves got tons of defects,

His right sleeve?

In the second picture his right sleeve looks a little twisted, where-as in the third picture his right sleeve looks much better. I think it is the way he is standing that can make things look off sometimes.

Remember, a tailor should fit you in your natural standing position so things will look clean when you stand normal. BUT when people have photos taken they start standing erect and fits can start looking off and things twisting. It looks to be the case with this fellow. His right sleeve looks twisted ion one photo, yet in another his right sleeve looks much better. Often photos don't give a true indication of fit. Obviously the tailor knows how to attach a sleeve properly, that left sleeve is outstanding.
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
941
His right sleeve?

In the second picture his right sleeve looks a little twisted, where-as in the third picture his right sleeve looks much better. I think it is the way he is standing that can make things look off sometimes.

Remember, a tailor should fit you in your natural standing position so things will look clean when you stand normal. BUT when people have photos taken they start standing erect and fits can start looking off and things twisting. It looks to be the case with this fellow. His right sleeve looks twisted ion one photo, yet in another his right sleeve looks much better. Often photos don't give a true indication of fit. Obviously the tailor knows how to attach a sleeve properly, that left sleeve is outstanding.


It´s ugly as Hell, lacks of style.

Also is a compilation of igent features: rounded frack like bottom, ugly lapels, women ( homo) waist, diagonal tacky pretentious pockets, dated ( early 1980´s) and too low button stance, ugly as an Almodovar film. The jacket looks a disguise for some odd film, not for real life use, unless is for an schyzotypal like weirdo ( as it seems on this case).

The unjacket is a collage of styles that remember me a lumpen tuned car with Ferrari alloy wheels, Lambo wings and diesel 80 cv engine

1618582485259.png


Also the cuffs do not fit the wrist size of him, that is not bespoke but using the same sleeve pattern for everybody as this Madrid untailors do. The sleeve is a crime against style and tailoring. They would have used the same for a 250 kilos client or for a bodybuilder.

Can you imagine a cheff using the same recipe for diabetes clients, for bodybuilders, for vegans or for mulsim clients at once ? Absolute NO.

Then why an untailor uses the same pattern for everybody?

This scammers have been doing it forever

1618582155916.png



This 80´s crap looks “sarna” as well, also look the wrong too tall shirt collar height, looks Burgos unshirt either, since they always do that deffect.

1618582189520.png
 
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The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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3,583
The problem with those tight fitting backs is that there is not enough room to move when you move your arms forward at a desk or something. A tight back like that will mean the chest will puff out at the front when you move your arms forward. A lot of young guys like a really clean back, but it comes with a big compromise. Having a bit of room up back is a good thing.

No point having a perfect looking fit (when standing) if it is restrictive and not comfortable when moving about. Tailoring must be done to transform the person and suit his body type. If you stand up all day and don't move about much that suit above will be perfect.

Too many suffer from this syndrome where they dress like manikins so they can show off a fit to people online, but there is no room in those clothes. Clothes are supposed to fit people, not manikins, but a lot of guys are in competitions for cleanest fit and they make these silly mistakes.

I love Bruce Boyer's quote. It is so true.

People talk about how clothes should fit, but fit is a nonsensical concept. Good tailors are not after fit, but effect. And effect means proportion. The idea is to help your figure, not to reproduce it.
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
941
The problem with those tight fitting backs is that there is not enough room to move when you move your arms forward at a desk or something. A tight back like that will mean the chest will puff out at the front when you move your arms forward. A lot of young guys like a really clean back, but it comes with a big compromise. Having a bit of room up back is a good thing.

No point having a perfect looking fit (when standing) if it is restrictive and not comfortable when moving about. Tailoring must be done to transform the person and suit his body type. If you stand up all day and don't move about much that suit above will be perfect.

Too many suffer from this syndrome where they dress like manikins so they can show off a fit to people online, but there is no room in those clothes. Clothes are supposed to fit people, not manikins, but a lot of guys are in competitions for cleanest fit and they make these silly mistakes.

I love Bruce Boyer's quote. It is so true.

People talk about how clothes should fit, but fit is a nonsensical concept. Good tailors are not after fit, but effect. And effect means proportion. The idea is to help your figure, not to reproduce it.


Bruce “voyeur” is not a tailor, he is just a big mouth one, let´s call him a pre-blogger.

As Sarto calls those histrionic inmature weirdos: a tacky with sexual id deep issues who is not enough brave to go out
of the closet and assume it ( with balls, on the best word for it) as Franky Knuckles did.

Mate see how sartorial fails has this crime, in Naples this equals to being shooted:

By any reason any who delivers this crime can be called tailor only scammer and fabricripper.

Curious his clients are narcissistics of this kind and the other Madrid poster with 0 class and -100 knowledge.

They just go there “because is the tailor of the upper class” ( so as I am a wannabe low-medium class, I need to show off
I will be soon upper class ( in their minds only) ”, those are their mental processes to justify this crap, and the worst, they are proud of it as you have readed two days ago.

Upper class do adrenochrome, go find it on the lodge as well out of kidnapped minors...

IMG_1722.jpg


nuff said... 0 class

1618878394146.png



sub zero class

1618878498883.png


If my grandpa ever (un)dressed as this, I mylsef would shoot him, lumpens but with pride.
 
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Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
941
Never had collar gap not even with bad RTW pieces. I think some bodies and postures are more likely to suffer from collar gap.


And a real tailor must know how to do it, a few ones in the world nowadays know, the rest are “Langa te tanga"

175930778_4266203593456378_7982426664287355051_n.jpg
 

ballmouse

Well-Known Member
Messages
317
Random video I found and noticed this was a nice suit. Maybe nothing special in 1940, but certainly would be today. Looks perfect, but even at 4:35 the collar does not stay attached as he completely hunches over. Also note his armholes/sleeves at the end when he goes into an 'airplane' pose.

 

robertito

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Messages
1,060
I am always fascinated of high the armholes were in the past. My experience with tailoring is limited to mid-range short of unknown tailors but they never managed to get me something like the below. Funnily enough I can get a similar armhole, with the unstructured italians (Boglioli and such)

tumblr_mqvtrmzC8X1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
430
Anderson & Sheppard still cuts a very high armhole as the one in the photo above. I guess the expatriates would do it as well, but cannot attest as I only own an A&S suit that I trifted (newly cut and unworn, though).
 

robertito

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Messages
1,060
Higher than your Neapolitan stuff? I have a Sabino suit and the wormholes are not so high.

The highest I have seen (online mind you) is the Hitchcock guy.
 

Sammy Ambrose

Well-Known Member
Messages
817
The problem with those tight fitting backs is that there is not enough room to move when you move your arms forward at a desk or something. A tight back like that will mean the chest will puff out at the front when you move your arms forward. A lot of young guys like a really clean back, but it comes with a big compromise. Having a bit of room up back is a good thing.

No point having a perfect looking fit (when standing) if it is restrictive and not comfortable when moving about. Tailoring must be done to transform the person and suit his body type. If you stand up all day and don't move about much that suit above will be perfect.

Too many suffer from this syndrome where they dress like manikins so they can show off a fit to people online, but there is no room in those clothes. Clothes are supposed to fit people, not manikins, but a lot of guys are in competitions for cleanest fit and they make these silly mistakes.

I love Bruce Boyer's quote. It is so true.

People talk about how clothes should fit, but fit is a nonsensical concept. Good tailors are not after fit, but effect. And effect means proportion. The idea is to help your figure, not to reproduce it.
Yes. We need to be able to move in clothes. Can't do that if they are painted on.
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
430
Higher than your Neapolitan stuff? I have a Sabino suit and the wormholes are not so high.

The highest I have seen (online mind you) is the Hitchcock guy.

Yes, higher than my neapolitan stuff. The sleeve is narrower as well. I never asked for a higher armhole to Iorio, though. Sure he can easily accommodate that.
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
941
Higher than your Neapolitan stuff? I have a Sabino suit and the wormholes are not so high.

The highest I have seen (online mind you) is the Hitchcock guy.


How did you get a suit by him, rtw via NYC shop or bespoke personally in Naples?


Sabino was the best. Was Sarto´s friend and idol. He interviewed him in 2015 for a tv program but was censored due to Sarto´s big mouth telling the THRUTH about Spaniard untailors and banksters.

RIP 2020 PASQUALE SABINO
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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3,583
Here is a great suit on Prince Charles. He moves about and the suit doesn't move, nor does the collar budge from his neck. It is so clean at the back too.


Video might not work. This one might be better. His more recent suit here isn't as good as this old one.
 

florisgreen

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Messages
1,543
Here is a great suit on Prince Charles. He moves about and the suit doesn't move, nor does the collar budge from his neck. It is so clean at the back too.


Video might not work. This one might be better. His more recent suit here isn't as good as this old one.
Prince Charles was always a model of style, solid, ageless British style.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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3,583
It's been 4 months since l ordered my extra heavy dark brown cords, still haven't had my first fitting yet.

About to try my first adventure in bespoke ties and bowties. Ordered these for a start.

Sam Hober 1.jpg

and a bowtie made from this pattern. Don't like any bowties online, they all look awful.
Sam Hober 2.jpg

Not one of those little wimpy peewee herman bowties, but a big manly silk bowtie that has presence, LIKE THIS!
Bow tie - big 3.png
 

Pimpernel Smith

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8,776
Prince Charles was always a model of style, solid, ageless British style.
You look at Prince Charles in the late 70s and early 80s he was classic menswear style icon, but at the time, he didn't seem this. He was just how a lot of men dressed back then. And he didn't really stand out as anything special or different. At least, it seems to me.
 

Thruth

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You look at Prince Charles in the late 70s and early 80s he was classic menswear style icon, but at the time, he didn't seem this. He was just how a lot of men dressed back then. And he didn't really stand out as anything special or different. At least, it seems to me.
He wasn’t a peacock.
 

The Shooman

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who from?

Heard good reports from him. Ordered a 6 fold lined tie and a non adjustable bowtie.

Some future ones on my list:


 

belinmad

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1,209

Heard good reports from him. Ordered a 6 fold lined tie and a non adjustable bowtie.

Some future ones on my list:


Thanks Shooey. I was talking abt the trousers though
 

florisgreen

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1,543

Heard good reports from him. Ordered a 6 fold lined tie and a non adjustable bowtie.

Some future ones on my list:


These are great classics. Congrats.
 

Thruth

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My tailor has been underworked because of COVID so his turnaround time has been excellent.

Some summer jackets all wool-silk-linen Zegna fabric and the navy is Kiton Diamonte Blu. Kudos to my fabric jobber. All quarter lined.

C8090D95-E088-4345-A204-D69F3E53BF7F.jpeg
 

Thruth

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Tasty. I’d have gone with slightly broader lapels (personal choice), but other than that, looks great!
Thanks and I agree, we normally do. Trying something slightly different this time.

The navy and the houndstooth we did the normal (wider) lapels that he normally does. Also went with 3/2 buttoning on the navy.
 
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