Agreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Rambo

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he's ok with the spanish but his french is abysmal. i find this surprising for some reason.
 

Rambo

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"you know i'm a big fan of Pink Martini. a little french cocktail music."

this in response to a question about what album he'd put on at a cocktail party.

i'm going to go sit in the corner now.
 

Kingstonian

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Yes, sometimes he has raised eyebrows when he has said really dumb stuff. I'll never forget his Edward Green video where he said he could smell the quality of the leather and the EG bloke looked at him stunned for a second and then tried to hide his expression.
Here is that video, see from 11:17 - 11:25 = a very awkward cringe worthy moment moment.
Its a great opening sequence. He’s obviously heard that if you want to get ahead get a hat. He ambles along Jermyn Street with an awkward gait, then removes his hat before going into the shop. No gent’s hats in church or in shops.

That said, he seems a nice chap and he puts money in the shoemakers’ and tailors’ pockets.
 

Kingstonian

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A larger-than-life Texan counterpoint would be nice.

J.R. Ewing swaggers down Jermyn Street :-

“Never mind these dainty little English shoes, I’m wearing the finest boots in the world all the way from Texas. I own the biggest herd of Texas longhorns in the state. You can’t get better leather. Call that a hat! This Stetson Ten Gallon is real man’s hat.”
 

Untermensch

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What do you think of the Eric Jensen suit? Agreeable or disagreeable? It's the third fitting and the jacket is nowhere near finished.
 

Kingstonian

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What do you think of the Eric Jensen suit? Agreeable or disagreeable? It's the third fitting and the jacket is nowhere near finished.
Mr. Alison is a man who could easily wear off the peg as he looks to be a regular shape. The tailors premises looks a bit spartan. So Kirby should not be overwhelmed by Ye Olde Wood Panelling and centuries of history.

Difficult to say. The tailor made a good point about sleeve length and if Mr. Alison has funds to pay for bespoke good luck to him. He seems a fairly unassuming man. The Homburg and umbrella that feature in some of his videos are a throwback to the early days of the iGent.
 

The Shooman

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Ha! Allison must be watching this forum. The video's been taken down.

Yeah, l saw that video. Trousers looked good, but still room for improvement. The coat was concerning because l remember the collar being all weird, but lets wait for the end result.
 

Untermensch

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Yeah, l saw that video. Trousers looked good, but still room for improvement. The coat was concerning because l remember the collar being all weird, but lets wait for the end result.
I await with trepidation. The trousers look good, though we don't get to see the all-important hems. The jacket, however, should be finished or very nearly so at the third fitting. Maybe it's the Italian custom. I don't know. But the jacket looks like what my tailor would have finished by fitting number 1 5/8ths.

Il difetto fà l'effetto, but what does la repeated Figaro sù Figaro giù allo drawing board do?
 

Scherensammler

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KA does not have an easy figure. Narrow, sloping shoulders with forward shoulder bones, hollow back and a duck bum.
That needs a lot of cutting and fitting skill, probably 8/10.
Sloping shoulders alone make it hard to have a nice sitting collar. Because of the slope the jacket literally wants to slide away from your neck.
Forward shoulder bones make it hard to have the shoulder seams (and the collar) sit nice as well. You need to change the shape of the shoulder seams to avoid tension creases you often see on overly tight jackets.
Hollow back is a challenge when customers want shape (like SC) and side vents. You can take out only so much before you upset other areas of the jacket.
Add to that a big duck bum (sticking out, often seen when guys have a hollow back) and you are in trouble once more.
All in all, I must say, I don't envy the tailor!!!
 

Untermensch

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KA does not have an easy figure. Narrow, sloping shoulders with forward shoulder bones, hollow back and a duck bum.
That needs a lot of cutting and fitting skill, probably 8/10.
Sloping shoulders alone make it hard to have a nice sitting collar. Because of the slope the jacket literally wants to slide away from your neck.
Forward shoulder bones make it hard to have the shoulder seams (and the collar) sit nice as well. You need to change the shape of the shoulder seams to avoid tension creases you often see on overly tight jackets.
Hollow back is a challenge when customers want shape (like SC) and side vents. You can take out only so much before you upset other areas of the jacket.
Add to that a big duck bum (sticking out, often seen when guys have a hollow back) and you are in trouble once more.
All in all, I must say, I don't envy the tailor!!!
We need more posts from you, Scherensammler. You're a mine of information.Which of the iGents would you say have an easy figure? Even the Nordic demigods seem to have sloping shoulders.
 

Scherensammler

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We need more posts from you, Scherensammler. You're a mine of information.Which of the iGents would you say have an easy figure? Even the Nordic demigods seem to have sloping shoulders.
I stopped "following" iGents. It's very repetitive after a while. Many of them have some sort of problem, so I guess going full bespoke makes sense for them.
A slight slope of the shoulder does not pose a big problem. It's only when you get to the likes of SC, KA or Prince Charles that you can run into problems, especially when you can't use shoulder pads or having them is not the solution.
Out of all of them I'd say the Swedish guy with the baby teeth has the best figure. Foo and the Polish dude are short, skinny with big heads and square shoulders and Manton is just a slouch.
 

Thruth

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It is the winds (producred by yours truly) of the Kiton dungeons that kept me eternally youthful.
If you are going to channel Sarto please do it correctly. You have not brought your A game.

Huge fail.

Jajajajajaja. murroquian degenerate thief selling mobile from when you rob my villa smelling like riot tire on Napoli better than you. You a Charlie fiend? Platinum nosebone fussed your brain? Ignorant too few hand passes for you? Jajajajja. Bankster, fraudster sent by Orazio? Jajajja, via chiaia shill. Dark dungeon of disease stains On giacca pinstripe with armpit bags?

Rambo ban profantor and remove pictures as before so no threat of shutdown to this tacky site.
 

Holzer

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If you are going to channel Sarto please do it correctly. You have not brought your A game.

Huge fail.

Jajajajajaja. murroquian degenerate thief selling mobile from when you rob my villa smelling like riot tire on Napoli better than you. You a Charlie fiend? Platinum nosebone fussed your brain? Ignorant too few hand passes for you? Jajajajja. Bankster, fraudster sent by Orazio? Jajajja, via chiaia shill. Dark dungeon of disease stains On giacca pinstripe with armpit bags?

Rambo ban profantor and remove pictures as before so no threat of shutdown to this tacky site.
Serious question:
How would that happen (and why anyway, there's dozens of images of people being slandered on here...)?
Good old Francisco Holzer using his imaginary friends and Opus Dei contacts who control the internet (with the same level of accuracy he controls his med intake)?
 

Thruth

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Serious question:
How would that happen (and why anyway, there's dozens of images of people being slandered on here...)?
Good old Francisco Holzer using his imaginary friends and Opus Dei contacts who control the internet (with the same level of accuracy he controls his med intake)?
Oh he threatened. You have to remember in his head he could post pics of others but his images are private. Well, stolen or purloined from him. Rambo can explain it better than I. The threat part that is.
 

Rambo

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I know you guys hate Crompton but Kirby really does strike me as the biggest git on the internet.
tell us more

Oh he threatened. You have to remember in his head he could post pics of others but his images are private. Well, stolen or purloined from him. Rambo can explain it better than I. The threat part that is.
god its been so long. speaking of which, i havent heard from him about this as of yet. does anyone know if he's ok?
 

Untermensch

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I know you guys hate Crompton but Kirby really does strike me as the biggest git on the internet.
This is a fascinating topic, and one whose surface has been merely skimmed, nay, lightly brushed to revive the nap. Kirby Allisson (TM) Hanger Project (TM), like Crompers, is financially secure. But I suspect Allissson could buy Crompers out. Texan oil money, as likely as not. Unlike Crompers, he mispronounces all of the important words. He hasn't been to Oxford. Also unlike Crompers, he still hasn't reached Peak (lapel?) Tailoring (the point where you have commissioned every single useful and useless item multiple times, and start getting tattoos).

I'm really worried about the state of tailoring in the United States. First we had Jensen saying "Napolian". Today we had Hemrajani calling a gilet a "gillet" (with a hard G).

And now, for some agreeable menswear.
 

Noob

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Oh he threatened. You have to remember in his head he could post pics of others but his images are private. Well, stolen or purloined from him. Rambo can explain it better than I. The threat part that is.
So is that really a photo of Sarto? The person in the photo certainly looks crazy enough.
 

Holzer

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tell us more


god its been so long. speaking of which, i havent heard from him about this as of yet. does anyone know if he's ok?
Oh that is just a purely hypothetical question, right... ?
(guess it would depend on the defition of 'OK', but he wouldn't qualify for being 'OK' regardless...)

Oh he threatened. You have to remember in his head he could post pics of others but his images are private. Well, stolen or purloined from him. @Rambo can explain it better than I. The threat part that is.
Hm, that kind of exhausted the arguement :are.you.serious:


So is that really a photo of Sarto? The person in the photo certainly looks crazy enough.
Wherever you are in thsi very moment:
Pack your bags and leave, don't let anyone know where to find you.
 

Mattrick

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He might be the source of some mirth, but Crompton can put a nice outfit together. Try and forget who it is. If you don't appreciate these outfits then you lack aesthetic sense and a true appreciation of menswear.

Elia Caliendo.jpg
bespoke-jacket-on-simon-crompton-1.jpg
Green-solito-jacket-simon-crompton-513x770.jpg
 
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Pimpernel Smith

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fxh

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I have one pair of purple chinos. They only really work against black or dark navy or yellow. I wear mine with black suede desert boots, yellow shirt and dark navy jacket.
 
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