Agreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

ASSHAT

Active Member
Messages
29
Rees Mogg looks like one of those clever types who wax lyrical about buying second hand ‘bespoke’.

“Yes it is Henry Poole, look at the label! Wonderful stitching and it is very heavy cloth from the era when there was no heating. Hangs so much better. The chap who it was made for was a lot heavier than me, but I got an alterations tailor to take up the sleeves and trousers and you would hardly notice. Savile Row quality always shines through!”
I get you guys don't think it looks "cool". Perhaps the style is not for you. But the claims that this is a suit for a much taller and fatter man are laughable at best, and at worst shows a profound lack of understanding of a how a suit should fit. This really comes as no surprise. A quick viewing of the what you are wearing now thread shows a preference for S&M rtw and disGustin massdrops, along with sloppy ill fitting and styled second hand clothes found in garbage bins down under. I know you guys like to shit on Pitti fits and SF losers, and I'm with you. But JRM is as far from that look as one can imagine. It seems the GQ and "cool guys" have taken over this forum. Quite sad. I would love to see pictures of what you believe are a proper fitting suit, in a traditional British style. I have attached another photo of the same suit and see no issues with the fit.


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look he even won a ribbon for best fitting suit :rofl:
 

Kingstonian

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Messages
1,406
“I get you guys don't think it looks "cool". Perhaps the style is not for you. But the claims that this is a suit for a much taller and fatter man are laughable at best, and at worst shows a profound lack of understanding of a how a suit should fit. ”

Sounds very much like a spin on what I call ‘The Crompton Defence”.

When somebody questions the great man about divots on his £5000 jacket, or various other imperfections, his response is that good tailoring is simply impossible to photograph.
 

Untermensch

Well-Known Member
Messages
256
“I get you guys don't think it looks "cool". Perhaps the style is not for you. But the claims that this is a suit for a much taller and fatter man are laughable at best, and at worst shows a profound lack of understanding of a how a suit should fit. ”

Sounds very much like a spin on what I call ‘The Crompton Defence”.

When somebody questions the great man about divots on his £5000 jacket, or various other imperfections, his response is that good tailoring is simply impossible to photograph.
So, Kingstonian old chum, what do you think of Crompers' latest £5000 jacket from Ciardi? And don't you love it how how he always uses Christian names for the great and good? Enzo did this. Davide did that. Such good service from Agyesh.
 

Kingstonian

Well-Known Member
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1,406
So, Kingstonian old chum, what do you think of Crompers' latest £5000 jacket from Ciardi? And don't you love it how how he always uses Christian names for the great and good? Enzo did this. Davide did that. Such good service from Agyesh.
It’s lovely, of course, and at only £2600 it is something of a bargain. I also love the vintage heavy weight tweed that nobody else can get hold of. Goes well with a denim cowboy shirt and rock and roll badge.

I note another line that could be useful. ‘Clean lines are often at the expense of comfort’.
 

ASSHAT

Active Member
Messages
29
“I get you guys don't think it looks "cool". Perhaps the style is not for you. But the claims that this is a suit for a much taller and fatter man are laughable at best, and at worst shows a profound lack of understanding of a how a suit should fit. ”

Sounds very much like a spin on what I call ‘The Crompton Defence”.

When somebody questions the great man about divots on his £5000 jacket, or various other imperfections, his response is that good tailoring is simply impossible to photograph.

quite the contrary. i beleive good tailoring is able to be photographed, I even posted more pictures of it. no one was nit picking or saying nothing can be understood from a photo. the gist of the criticism was the guy lost 150 pounds and the suit was too big and for a much much taller man. My point was that i think you guys just don't like the style and there is nothing at all wrong with the tailoring. but if you see a problem with the tailoring of JRM's please enlighten us. I'd actually agree with you if his arms had divots, or the collar or shoulders were off. But they are not. It looks like a comfortable well fitted suit.
 
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Kingstonian

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Messages
1,406
It looks like a comfortable well fitted suit.
Comfortable ? Yes. Well fitted? Not so much.

It looks as if the tailor could stand behind him as he gazes into the mirror and grab a handful of excess cloth to improve the look.

Mogg is a tall, thin chap but even so he should not be completely swamped by a suit - double breasted or single.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,557
Jordan Peterson is certainly dressing better these days. Looks like he is in bespoke and is now hiring a stylist.


compared to before:
wood forest bank hours of operation

and the extract video which explains why he looks better. How much do you earn?....he comes straight out with it.
I've noticed the improvement in his sartorial presentation over the last several months and with that kind of money coming in, I can see why. He's gone from maybe top but minor academic circa 80-100K English pound equivalent, or maybe less than that, to big time surgeon or rock star money. Well played that man.

I get you guys don't think it looks "cool". Perhaps the style is not for you. But the claims that this is a suit for a much taller and fatter man are laughable at best, and at worst shows a profound lack of understanding of a how a suit should fit. This really comes as no surprise. A quick viewing of the what you are wearing now thread shows a preference for S&M rtw and disGustin massdrops, along with sloppy ill fitting and styled second hand clothes found in garbage bins down under. I know you guys like to shit on Pitti fits and SF losers, and I'm with you. But JRM is as far from that look as one can imagine. It seems the GQ and "cool guys" have taken over this forum. Quite sad. I would love to see pictures of what you believe are a proper fitting suit, in a traditional British style. I have attached another photo of the same suit and see no issues with the fit.


View attachment 32202View attachment 32203

look he even won a ribbon for best fitting suit :rofl:
It is an English look and whilst constructed for the English cool of ultimate comfort, the silhouette is old fashioned. Personally, I prefer a slightly more tailored look with a whiff of English eccentricity in the shirt cloth. I would like to see JRM channel a bit more of the rakishness of Alan Clark, but unlikely to do his long term political career any good.

Comfortable ? Yes. Well fitted? Not so much.

It looks as if the tailor could stand behind him as he gazes into the mirror and grab a handful of excess cloth to improve the look.

Mogg is a tall, thin chap but even so he should not be completely swamped by a suit - double breasted or single.
He certainly has kept his youthful metabolism.
 

Untermensch

Well-Known Member
Messages
256
Not quite getting that vibe. The Rolex Daytona and super cars on a 21 year old are missing for starters.
The fabric is too shiny, for a start. The cut is Italian with a playboy vibe (short, six by one buttoning, tight sleeves, unpadded shoulders with excessive roping, massive lapels). And the colour is all wrong.

Hair all slicked back. Skin tanned. Designer Japanese alpha male beard.

Mobile phone out on show. And sunglasses too.

However, to each his own. I don't find this outfit agreeable at all. I retain the right to sneer at these people. Mostly because I don't have a fraction of their money.
 

Untermensch

Well-Known Member
Messages
256
Kenneth? Do you mean this one? I must confess that I covet that jacket.

Look at the cut. None of that iTalian cutaways front quarters nonsense, or overdone mappina. It's structured to the right degree, but has a soft natural shoulder. There's enough of a pattern to make it casual, but not so much that it overpowers the ensemble.

God damn I want that jacket.

 

ballmouse

Well-Known Member
Messages
73
Looks nice. Though as much as I'd like to chalk up his pant wrinkles to aristocratic indifference, I can't help but wonder why they wrinkle in that severely.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
2,762
Kenneth? Do you mean this one? I must confess that I covet that jacket.

Look at the cut. None of that iTalian cutaways front quarters nonsense, or overdone mappina. It's structured to the right degree, but has a soft natural shoulder. There's enough of a pattern to make it casual, but not so much that it overpowers the ensemble.

God damn I want that jacket.
Can’t argue with any of this.

I do not understand why open quarters are a fad right now. It is not a flattering look on anyone.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Messages
3,557
Kenneth? Do you mean this one? I must confess that I covet that jacket.

Look at the cut. None of that iTalian cutaways front quarters nonsense, or overdone mappina. It's structured to the right degree, but has a soft natural shoulder. There's enough of a pattern to make it casual, but not so much that it overpowers the ensemble.

God damn I want that jacket.

I meant Kenneth Clark, but that is of course, Brigadier Arthur Valerian Wellesley, 8th Duke of Wellington.
 

Untermensch

Well-Known Member
Messages
256
Great TV programme. I have the hardback book that went with the series.

They tried to remake it decades later and failed.
We must meet some time, Kingstonian. Common interests and all that.

The final episode, I thought, is actually quite touching. When he goes on about how he believes in "other things, in kindness, and courtesy" it left like a roundabout way of saying these things are slipping away.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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3,557
We must meet some time, Kingstonian. Common interests and all that.
The final episode, I thought, is actually quite touching. When he goes on about how he believes in "other things, in kindness, and courtesy" it left like a roundabout way of saying these things are slipping away.
Things are slipping away and always have been and new things seeping in....

The deterioration in driving curtesy here over the last 5 years is quite astonishing. There's been media interest in it and if what they're predicting is right an additional 20%+ cars on the road by mid-2020's, it's going to be gridlocked. It is illegal to beep your car horn in the Netherlands and when we first moved into our current offices 5 years ago you would never hear anything other than ambulance siren now and again. Now every morning without fail you hear long drawn out angry car horn beeps. And wherever you go the streetwear influence permeates....and yet, when you dress well, the ladies still smile.
 

Kingstonian

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,406
Illegal to beep the horn? Why have a horn in a car then? I would not have thought the Dutch would be prime suspects for overuse of a car horn either.

Not really closely linked to Kenneth Clark’s ‘Civilisation’ though...
 

Pimpernel Smith

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3,557
Not really closely linked to Kenneth Clark’s ‘Civilisation’ though...
Yes, I think it is all linked as we lose grasp of our civilization's achievements, it's culture and our ability to appreciate it or even denigrate it, we let one more barbarian practice through the gates of the citadel. The increasingly intense and tense atmospheres of our commutes and swathes of our urban areas is a symptom of this malaise.
 

Ryan Owens

Active Member
Messages
44
Why are menswear icons always glum? Good clothing is supposed to be a balm for the soul. A well-cut jacket and trousers should put a smile on any man's face.
Well someone, somewhere, said that if a man looks dour it is the same as looking cool. This is essentially the same thing as teenaged boys pretending they don't care about things because caring is lame.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,557
Well someone, somewhere, said that if a man looks dour it is the same as looking cool. This is essentially the same thing as teenaged boys pretending they don't care about things because caring is lame.
Because when men smile, it can at times look effete, a sign of submission. There's lots of research into this and that women find smiling men less attractive. That's why the best face to pose is one of heroic or noble defiance.
 
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