Ask A Quick Question

[fxh]

I take it it’s the same for sleeve length? Some gents cover their cuffs, others don’t?

Sleeve length isn’t that important if you get cuff width right to stop at wrist. That’s easy to do by simply shifting the button.

Sadly these days there’s a lot of confusion about shirts. They used to be considered underwear - that gives you some idea about design. And they were always, always tucked in. That means long tails. Nowadays they are basically outerwear, but designed partly as underwear and to be tucked in and outerwear to be untucked. But not well designed to be either. Add to this the fashion to wear them tight, tight and tighter.

So most RTW look like shit.

 

[yeahokaywhatever]

Sleeve length isn’t that important if you get cuff width right to stop at wrist. That’s easy to do by simply shifting the button.

Can you elaborate on “shifting the button”?

Can you also explain why it’s “not important”?

Was just curious because I’ve seen gents with their jacket sleeves right over their shirt cuffs. I had a suspicion that they were underwear-like garments, but I think many reveal a little cuff if they’re not French cuffs, some don’t hmm

 

[Mattrick]

I'm guessing he means that having a cuff that fits and prevents the sleeve from dropping too far down over your hands can make up for a slight excess of length. And the cuff button can be moved slightly to make the cuff fit better.

I think you were talking about whether to show shirt cuff beneath your jacket sleeve. That's a matter of taste, but I think it looks a lot better if you do. It adds a slither of contrast that is visually pleasing. Best to look at photos of men who are unquestionably well-dressed and see what they do and decide what you like.

 

[Untermensch]

I take it it’s the same for sleeve length? Some gents cover their cuffs, others don’t?

The rule of thumb says you should show between 1/2 and 1/8th of an inch of cuff. But it's a matter of taste, really.

With a country coat, you would traditionally show less cuff, or none at all, to protect the cuff from dirt etc. But times have changed, and once again, it's a matter of taste.

The golden rule of menswear is that you need to be quite simply a man in his clothes, not a model for the clothes, or a godawful "gentleman" in the modern sense, or showing off the clothes, or fussing about "design" (that's you, Crompers) or even perfect fit (which doesn't exist).

 

[Mattrick]

What does "design" even mean when Crompton (and you) use it?

 

[Lobbster]

Do any of the North American users on here have some experience with Filson Clothing and their sizing? I'd apreciate some feedback.

 

[Dropbear]

Do any of the North American users on here have some experience with Filson Clothing and their sizing? I'd apreciate some feedback.

I can only speak to the Mackinaw jacket, which is cut roomy - it’s outdoor workwear. Avoid anything “Seattle Fit”, which was a trendy slim fit line about 10-15 years ago - but not slim as in good for slim/athletic built men. Slim as in hipster fit.

 

[Untermensch]

What does "design" even mean when Crompton (and you) use it?

As God is my witness, I don't know. The only "design" in men's tailoring in the last 100 years was Tommy Nutter, and that was only worn by talentless pricks like the Beatles or cokeheads like Mick Jagger.

 

[Grand Potentate]

Do any of the North American users on here have some experience with Filson Clothing and their sizing? I'd apreciate some feedback.

Fairly standard american sizing ime. Ive got a few of their outerwear pieces and theyre all just about normal. Maybe a touch smaller but only by a very tiny bit.

 

[Lobbster]

Thanks for your replies.

Would you say the Mackinaw is sort of menswear compatible?

So say I take a 58 in Italian or a 56 in German a XXL would be fine?

I'm currently looking alternatives to Barbour and have always had an eye on Filson, the tin cloth field jacket and the cover cloth mile marker coat in particular but the question is if these work outside an Americana/workwear context.

 

[Dropbear]

Personally, I wouldn’t wear the Makinaw with tailoring. It is pretty rugged, but I have seen other Filson jackets that would work a bit better inside the city.

Part of the reason I think you could get away with it in Europe is because it’s a style less seen there. Around here, everyone and his dog has some sort of Filson-style cowboy barn coat (Brokeback Mountain Jackets, as I call them). Hence my love for Barbour in this environment- something I probably wouldn’t be caught dead in if I were in the UK.

Thruth should be able to steer you towards good Filson tincloth outerwear.

 

[Grand Potentate]

Thanks for your replies.

Would you say the Mackinaw is sort of menswear compatible?

So say I take a 58 in Italian or a 56 in German a XXL would be fine?

I'm currently looking alternatives to Barbour and have always had an eye on Filson, the tin cloth field jacket and the cover cloth mile marker coat in particular but the question is if these work outside an Americana/workwear context.

Yes

 

[Thruth]

Thanks for your replies.

Would you say the Mackinaw is sort of menswear compatible?

So say I take a 58 in Italian or a 56 in German a XXL would be fine?

I'm currently looking alternatives to Barbour and have always had an eye on Filson, the tin cloth field jacket and the cover cloth mile marker coat in particular but the question is if these work outside an Americana/workwear context.

The single Mac fits solidly in the streetwear & denim workwear niche, which is why Filson created the Seattle fit for iGents and neckbeard lumbersexuals who would have to size down sometimes 2 sizes to get their "fit" dialled in because they don't use it over multiple layers. Seattle fit is more tapered through the body, especially the waist.

The Alaska fit is built to accommodate multiple layers because they are needed for cold weather. Even though it is relatively heavy wool, a 24 or 26 oz wool overcoat is really not that warm relatively speaking.

I've always sized down 1 size with the single Mac and go TTS in the double Mac. The double is actually slimmer than the single Mac in the Alaska fit from a chest tolerance perspective. Or maybe I should say less large.

I actually dislike the design of the single Mac compared to the double Mac, mainly because of the pocket orientation.

Single Mac. Don't like the 4 pocket array although the back is pretty clean except for the map pocket dual entry pockets on the back

Double Mac. I find that the double layer of cape over the front gives a cleaner look hiding the full upper pockets under the cape. I also think the cape over the back looks better. Problem is it is a heavy behemoth of a jacket that - despite it being used by hunters and loggers - really needs layers beneath to be truly warm.

I think an alternative if you want a wool filson coat that combines the best of both the Mac and double Mac is the Cape Coat. You get a cape over the front and back but not the double sleeves that come with the double Mac. You also have side entry, handwarmer lower pockets instead of flaps. Plus you have a clean back with the cape treatment and no map pockets flaps.

The unlined Cape coat is the same 24 oz/square yd in solid colours as the single Mac and both use 26 oz for the plaid. The Cape is warmer. You can also get it lined in a sherpa lining with Primaloft Gold synthetic insulation but with a 21 ounce wool, making it warmer than the single Mac for sure. Have no first hand comparison to the double Mac but I'd say it may be as warm.

 

[Thruth]

Personally, I wouldn’t wear the Makinaw with tailoring. It is pretty rugged, but I have seen other Filson jackets that would work a bit better inside the city.

Part of the reason I think you could get away with it in Europe is because it’s a style less seen there. Around here, everyone and his dog has some sort of Filson-style cowboy barn coat (Brokeback Mountain Jackets, as I call them). Hence my love for Barbour in this environment- something I probably wouldn’t be caught dead in if I were in the UK.

Thruth should be able to steer you towards good Filson tincloth outerwear.

Double tin and single tin cloth are a bitch to break in. Cold without layers - even with the zip in wool liner - but pretty element resistant in terms of shedding water and wind. Single tin cloth is a bit more robust than the beefier Barbour waxed cotton as it is waxed canvas. Shelter cloth is more akin to typical Barbour but they don't use it much anymore so you would have to buy vintage. Dry tin cloth is softer, no smell if that is a thing with you as it is with some others and no break-in.

At Filson's price points, there is better value out there. Vintage is always a way to go.

 

[yeahokaywhatever]

When people talk about collar gapping, they’re talking about when someone’s arms are down right? How much gapping is acceptable when someone has their hands up? Or do people literally mean no gap in all positions?

Does having high and large armholes help?

 

[Mattrick]

A quick but obscure question: I've always wondered why Tom Ford uses five buttons on the cuff of his jackets, with an oversized fifth button hole. Is there a significance to this beyond a vulgar "let's add one more as more is better"?

I haven't seen anyone else do it, except to extend a too-short sleeve which has functional buttons.

 

[Great White Snark]

I’m pretty sure you’ve answered your own question there. Attention seeking shit. Same as T and A with their pointless three or more button shirt cuffs.

 

[Mattrick]

I assumed it was that, but considered that there could have been more to it. Like a style from the past that he was mimicking.

Frankly I'd feel like an idiot with five buttons - plus they're always functional and the sleeves are always long.

 

[Ulick McGee]

Any recommendations for competent provincial tailors in the UK, while the UK is still a thing?

 

[fxh]

Untermensch is anything but provincial but I believe he's Not In London.

 

[Grand Potentate]

Any recommendations for competent provincial tailors in the UK, while the UK is still a thing?

you want to narrow it down a little?

 

[Ulick McGee]

Anyone who can turn out a decent softish cut jacket, sub London prices, no garmsman coal-heaving nonsense?

 

[Great White Snark]

Anyone who can turn out a decent softish cut jacket, sub London prices, no garmsman coal-heaving nonsense?

Steed now has a branch in Cumbria somewhere IIRC.

 

[Untermensch]

Anyone who can turn out a decent softish cut jacket, sub London prices, no garmsman coal-heaving nonsense?

Henry Herbert. They're in London but their prices are sub-London. One of their cutters is Italian (name of Francesco Vuoto), so you can knock yourself out with spalla camicias and mappinas.

 

[Ulick McGee]

Top information, much appreciated.

 

[doghouse]

Henry Herbert.

 

[Untermensch]

Indeed. Crompers mysteriously deleted a review he'd done in 2008 or so.

 

[Dropbear]

I’m on the fence on this E Thomas silk-wool-linen summer check. The one they did last year was perfect (more muted and overall more tan) but long gone. This one from 2018 is still available but perhaps too bold and too light overall? Ignore the jacket and insufferable #menswear enthusiast - just asking about fabric.

 

[Dropbear]

Anyone tried Apposta for MtM shirts?

 

[Dropbear]

Trying again with a of quick questions:

Is it fair to say 2-roll-3 is a trad American feature not found on traditional English suits?

Is it also fair to say that hacking pockets traditionally belong on country and not city jackets?

I know the ticket pocket is as much city as country now, but it was initially a city suit thing, right?

As much as there is an ‘English style’ suit, it’s primarily the silhouette (slightly longer jacket with structured shoulders and nipped waist). conservative greys and blues with a tendency to subtle pin stripes. Anything else?

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

Trying again with a of quick questions:

Is it fair to say 2-roll-3 is a trad American feature not found on traditional English suits?

Is it also fair to say that hacking pockets traditionally belong on country and not city jackets?

I know the ticket pocket is as much city as country now, but it was initially a city suit thing, right?

As much as there is an ‘English style’ suit, it’s primarily the silhouette (slightly longer jacket with structured shoulders and nipped waist). conservative greys and blues with a tendency to subtle pin stripes. Anything else?

Ivy styling, not English.

Hacking pockets were to put your gun cartridge in. Ticket pockets, I thought was the same thing, re-labelled?

The silhouette and more subdued colour schemes so you can make your peacock shirt the key to the look.

 

[Dropbear]

Interesting, thanks.

I’d always assumed hacking pockets were for easier accessibility while seated on horseback and the ticket pocket was For either the train ticket or maybe for a show.

 

[Journeyman]

As I understand it, hacking pockets are slanted, rather than horizontal.

A ticket pocket is a smaller pocket, usually on the right-hand side of a jacket (as most people are right-handed) for you to put your theatre tickets in so you can easily retrieve them.

 

[Great White Snark]

Trying again with a of quick questions:

Is it fair to say 2-roll-3 is a trad American feature not found on traditional English suits?

Is it also fair to say that hacking pockets traditionally belong on country and not city jackets?

I know the ticket pocket is as much city as country now, but it was initially a city suit thing, right?

As much as there is an ‘English style’ suit, it’s primarily the silhouette (slightly longer jacket with structured shoulders and nipped waist). conservative greys and blues with a tendency to subtle pin stripes. Anything else?

It’s three roll two not two roll three, ie a ‘three’ button jacket on which the lapel rolls to the ‘two’ (second button). In more exaggerated versions it doesn’t roll at all, it’s pressed flat thus essentially making it a two button jacket with a vestigial button hole at the bottom of the lapel.
Aside from that all your other supposition are correct in my book.

 

[doghouse]

As I understand it, hacking pockets are slanted, rather than horizontal.

A ticket pocket is a smaller pocket, usually on the right-hand side of a jacket (as most people are right-handed) for you to put your theatre tickets in so you can easily retrieve them.

Correct

 

[Dropbear]

How big a task would it be for a tailor to add some width to a lapel? Not worth the expense for the average otr jacket?

 

[Great White Snark]

Probably not even possible. If you can’t live with slimmer lapels then move on.

 

[doghouse]

^This.

 

[formby001]

Not sure that's even possible with teh bespock.

 

[fxh]

Not possible without an ugly seam