Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Dropbear

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Fox News: we are real journalists capable of critical insights. It’s just that the President is perfect so we have nothing bad to say about him.
 

Kingstonian

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Fox News: we are real journalists capable of critical insights. It’s just that the President is perfect so we have nothing bad to say about him.
It’s only £7500. That’s hardly a shock from him nowadays. It would need to be at least £75,000.

Meanwhile he has long since ditched Graham Browne tailors in Bow Lane whose Christmas sale he used to advertise. Not reassuringly expensive.
 

QuandoDio

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Fox News: we are real journalists capable of critical insights. It’s just that the President is perfect so we have nothing bad to say about him.
I am not a particularly violent man, however, that is a face one would never get tired of punching.
 

Kingstonian

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I like his outfit there. Although not worth that money.
You say that about the guy in the seven and half thousand pound overcoat? COME ON!


It would be more entertaining if Crompers was like that but he is too buttoned up and English to properly flaunt it.
 

Untermensch

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How not to wear an overcoat. Hips look wider than the shoulders, too much skirt and too little chest, and all the other "design" flaws.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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How not to wear an overcoat. Hips look wider than the shoulders, too much skirt and too little chest, and all the other "design" flaws.
It's certainly not Winston Churchill, Cary Grant, or Mick Jones in a well cut Crombie coat and silk scarf. No one's commented on the photograph of his big bottom swing dingle-ling in it. That photos is....accentuated and waspish to be as positive as one can be.

Who is this guy, when was he born and which location? It makes as much sense at stage, to figure out his horoscope as it does to explore his academic days as an undergraduate in PPE.
 

Rambo

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Fox News: we are real journalists capable of critical insights. It’s just that the President is perfect so we have nothing bad to say about him.
why all the prefacing of the review? we pride ourselves on honest reviews but hardly anything bad to say? despite the fact that there are basically no negative points?

he has such an odd way of trying to foam the runway and not piss any of his potential suppliers off. its amazing to me that no one ever calls him on this bullshit in the comments.
 

dreamspace

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I've got most of these modern igent clients figured out - as I went to business school with most of them.

These guys are pretty similar, all of them. They come from middle or upper-middle class families. The middle class guys try to fit in with the upper-middle classers.

Typically they're quite boring dudes that did well in school, and never strayed too far away from the norm. In their younger days they all wore the same clothes. After graduation, now working at either Big 4 / MBB / Investment banks / biglaw / whatever white-collar institution, they had to upgrade their wardrobe to something professional. Some of them might even try to re-invent themselves, trying stylish clothes. But almost never straight up fashion forward brands (Saint Laurent, Versace, Gucci, etc.) - but you know, careful upgrades from their previous clothes. They switch out their Polo Ralph Lauren shirts with something better - their chinos and jeans with wool trousers, sneakers with loafers or Allen Edmond Strands, cautiously start to wear sport coats.

Then they start getting more invested. They're now following all the regular influencers, and start checking out more expensive options. Trunk shows and MTM at the local high-end menswear stores. After a couple of year of pussyfooting with this, they finally give in, and try their first bespoke projects. And before you know it, they own bespoke suits, coats, shoes, trousers, shirts, ties, and what not.

(If they're upper-class people, they've probably dabbled in this kind of stuff way before. Gentlemen's clubs (read: Not strip clubs), black tie dinners, and what not.)

But as for why? It could just be normal obsession - some people are prone to get obsessed with whatever they take an interest in. But I also think signaling is a legit reason. It's easy to signal that you're successful if you look like you're successful. Upper-class white-collar professionals can always recognize each other by just glancing at their shoes, watch, coat, etc.
 

Untermensch

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But as for why? It could just be normal obsession - some people are prone to get obsessed with whatever they take an interest in. But I also think signaling is a legit reason. It's easy to signal that you're successful if you look like you're successful. Upper-class white-collar professionals can always recognize each other by just glancing at their shoes, watch, coat, etc.
I'm not upper class, or even middle, and I have very little new money, never mind old money, but if I ever had to look like something, I'd try to look like old money, not the kind of iGent Berg&Bergishness that screams middle.
 

dreamspace

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Depending on where you live, the old-money style (hand-me-down clothes, plain and traditional menswear, etc.) has been diluted with first and second gen rich folks. These guys all wear the same Gucci / Ferragamo / Hermes etc. stuff.

If I hit one of the local banker hot-spot bars, I'm guaranteed to find a bunch of guys wearing the same bit-loafers, medium length slicked back haircuts, navy jacket-over-white shirt, maybe a those ghastly fleece vests if they're not wearing a jacket.
 

Kingstonian

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Kid Creole ventures into country wear

He is better sticking to correspondent shoes and Flash Harry kit. At least he could shave off the jazz musicians whiskers.

‘I’m a wonderful thing, baby’
 

QuandoDio

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Oh dear...

Are those new pics? Looks like some are from Pitti? Speaking of Pitti, is that still going on??
 

Great White Snark

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I understand Pitti is going on and I renew my amazement as to the level of narcissism that would cause someone who is not involved in the BUSINESS OF SELLING MENSWEAR to spend the time and money to cross the ocean to Italy - especially at this time of year - just to get a few photo ops with burnt out semi alcoholic eurotrash who someone has decided are ‘influencers’. Yeah must make great copy for your blogs lads, too bad those who are a bit more worldly wise are laughing at you and your sycophancy for these sad bastards.
 

The Shooman

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I understand Pitti is going on and I renew my amazement as to the level of narcissism that would cause someone who is not involved in the BUSINESS OF SELLING MENSWEAR to spend the time and money to cross the ocean to Italy - especially at this time of year - just to get a few photo ops with burnt out semi alcoholic eurotrash who someone has decided are ‘influencers’. Yeah must make great copy for your blogs lads, too bad those who are a bit more worldly wise are laughing at you and your sycophancy for these sad bastards.
Lots of humans want to be famous, they will try to get it anyway they can, especially these days. They all want to be admired, and social media would be to blame for the affliction. Being admired and followed online sounds like a lot of effort, and I imagine the emotional effort of trying to get famous would be very tiring.

Great White Snark Great White Snark these people are victims, they are trapped in a silly mind set that doesn't reflect reality. It's just another issue people have to get through. These people probably try to impress people all their lives,they are controlled by their attachments and delusions.
 

Untermensch

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Never one to shy away from taboos, I have to make this observation: The self-imposed racial segregation at Pitti seems to get worse every year. There's a growing contingent of what look like Sapeurs, who always hang out by themselves. Ditto, the Nordics.

As for the rest, the new black this year is overcoats, and oversized leather carry-bags.
 

ASSHAT

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227
Now for some pics of disagreeable outfits at Pitti.



View attachment 33088


i dont understand you. you claim racial segregation at pitti and then proceed to post photos of all sorts of racial mixing at pitti. it is true that they all appear to be low breed, inferior stock, servant class, human garbage (whether white, black, brown, yellow or red), but you must be very sensitive to this type of thing.
 
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Untermensch

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355
i dont understand you. you claim racial segregation at pitti and then proceed to post photos of all sorts of racial mixing at pitti. it is true that they all appear to be low breed, inferior stock, servant class, human garbage (whether white, black, brown, yellow or red), but you must be very sensitive to this type of thing.
Being neither black nor white makes me very sensitive to this sort of thing. What I see at Pitti is the emergence the "sartorial" or "iGent" version of the caricature of the black aesthetic, the Shaft or pimp aesthetic. The Sapeurs started it all, decades before it even became a thing in the United States. But it came about through an ignorance of the European aesthetic. They wanted to look like sophisticated Frenchmen and Belgians, and overdid it. In the US, the drug-dealing criminal pimp wants to project wealth and status, so he takes the European suit and tie, and turns it into a caricature of the cuts, the textures, colours, jewellery, and accessories.

To the #woke generation, it's empowerment. To me, it's the surest way to self-segregation.
 

ASSHAT

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Being neither black nor white makes me very sensitive to this sort of thing. What I see at Pitti is the emergence the "sartorial" or "iGent" version of the caricature of the black aesthetic, the Shaft or pimp aesthetic. The Sapeurs started it all, decades before it even became a thing in the United States. But it came about through an ignorance of the European aesthetic. They wanted to look like sophisticated Frenchmen and Belgians, and overdid it. In the US, the drug-dealing criminal pimp wants to project wealth and status, so he takes the European suit and tie, and turns it into a caricature of the cuts, the textures, colours, jewellery, and accessories.

To the #woke generation, it's empowerment. To me, it's the surest way to self-segregation.
pretty sure this started long before the sapeurs as zoot suits were a gross exaggeration of the english drape cut. but whatever
 

Pimpernel Smith

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5,232
Being neither black nor white makes me very sensitive to this sort of thing. What I see at Pitti is the emergence the "sartorial" or "iGent" version of the caricature of the black aesthetic, the Shaft or pimp aesthetic. The Sapeurs started it all, decades before it even became a thing in the United States. But it came about through an ignorance of the European aesthetic. They wanted to look like sophisticated Frenchmen and Belgians, and overdid it. In the US, the drug-dealing criminal pimp wants to project wealth and status, so he takes the European suit and tie, and turns it into a caricature of the cuts, the textures, colours, jewellery, and accessories.

To the #woke generation, it's empowerment. To me, it's the surest way to self-segregation.
I am against anything that makes anyone sensitive about the colour of their skin, that's why identity politics along with Islamism, is the most regressive force at work in the world today. Truly toxic and those who are yielding it, care nought, but to use it as a vehicle for power.

The pimp aesthetic is intriguing: when I first drove into New York city back in 1998, I had to take a second look as I saw a 1970s caricature of a pimp with his stable of heroin street walkers on a corner. Strange, but not as shocking as the down-syndrome street walker near the Earl De Gray in Hull I saw around the same period. Later in Rio towards the backend of 2003/04, when the Chicago charter flights came in, there were ageing black guys with the same pimp look and feathers inn their hats in Help nightclub.
 

Nashav

Active Member
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I don't get all these 'adults' posing at the Pitti. Are they really that insecure and thus need validation from strangers and a bunch of apes on Instagram?
It is pitiful and sickening.
 
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