The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
19,317
^Nice!

I picked up a pair of suede single monks by Sutor Mantellassi some years ago. I'd never really thought about single monks before I saw them, but they're very nice and also very comfortable:

Those are nice JM.
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
19,317
For a long time I was turned off by monks, they seemed so reminiscent of the 80s, but in a way a didn't want to revisit. Had a few pairs back then. But I've been thinking it's probably right on time to get another pair and these Greve ones look just the ticket:

View attachment 32108

View attachment 32109
View attachment 32110
I waver back and forth too. I had the JMW double monk boots but no shoes. After breaking down a couple of years ago and getting loafers I did not consider shoes again until I saw these on sale. They are very flexible as non-GYW eyetie shoes are. Comfortable.

As for double-monks I'd like JL Williams but I'm not about to pay $2500 which is what they cost here and there is only one shop in Canada that sells JL.
 

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
Supporter
Messages
6,391
For a long time I was turned off by monks, they seemed so reminiscent of the 80s, but in a way a didn't want to revisit. Had a few pairs back then. But I've been thinking it's probably right on time to get another pair and these Greve ones look just the ticket:
I have two pair of double monks that I never wear. Partly because they became popular with badly dressed people, and partly because I never know wtf to wear them with. I do think that plain black single monks are a good looking shoe.
 

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
Supporter
Messages
6,391
The Shooman in a meeting today saw a bloke with what I thought were RMs. Black Cuban heel. But the heel was a bit higher and sleeker than the usual. They also had pointy toes. Real pointy. So I said “Nice boots. Where’d ya get em “

He said they were RM custom from years ago and special order. Showed me soles with brass nails all around the side. Said he had 5 other pair - one lot out of croc skin!
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,044
For a long time I was turned off by monks, they seemed so reminiscent of the 80s, but in a way a didn't want to revisit. Had a few pairs back then. But I've been thinking it's probably right on time to get another pair and these Greve ones look just the ticket:

View attachment 32108

View attachment 32109
View attachment 32110
you may become surprised at how some shoos you didn't initially like can become your favourite pair of shoos. Years ago l bought the Church's `westbury' model with the big buckle, and now it is one of my all time favourites. Actually, l used to hate monk shoes, but this week l have worn monks for half the week.

The Shooman
What’s for dinner shooey?
The pointe shoe too gained significant cultural cachet. Taglioni wore soft satin slippers with leather soles, whose sides and tips she darned to give them more support. But the first boxed-toe pointe shoe wasn’t used until 1841, by the Italian dancer Carlotta Grisi. Taglioni became such a celebrity that, after her final performance in Russia in 1842, her biggest fans apparently bought her used shoes, cooked them and ate them with sauce.
whoa man, that's a bit full on. Obviously shows there's a few nutters around.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,044
The Shooman in a meeting today saw a bloke with what I thought were RMs. Black Cuban heel. But the heel was a bit higher and sleeker than the usual. They also had pointy toes. Real pointy. So I said “Nice boots. Where’d ya get em “

He said they were RM custom from years ago and special order. Showed me soles with brass nails all around the side. Said he had 5 other pair - one lot out of croc skin!

I love the guys that order croc or alligator, they are my favourite type of shoo guys. It tells me they are serious about doing it right.

The problem with brass nails is that they are a really bad construction. They damage the soles easily (the flexing creates wear and tear on the soles and they create holes in the soles) and let in water.

I have two pair of double monks that I never wear. Partly because they became popular with badly dressed people, and partly because I never know wtf to wear them with. I do think that plain black single monks are a good looking shoe.
plain single black monks are definitely a winner.

yes, the double is more difficult to make work. I find they go well with casual clothes like a sportscoat, but not heavy winter clothes.
 

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
Supporter
Messages
6,391
I love the guys that order croc or alligator, they are my favourite type of shoo guys. It tells me they are serious about doing it right.

The problem with brass nails is that they are a really bad construction. They damage the soles easily (the flexing creates wear and tear on the soles and they create holes in the soles) and let in .
I forgot to mention; he had on a bow tie and a purple velvet sport coat.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
2,665
Mrs Dropbear and I went to a healthcare vendor shmooze and kickback soirée last week. Usually it’s just free food and drink to ply potential customers - maybe tickets to a game or show.

This time it was at a nice cocktail lounge and in one room the Lucchese boot people were set-up taking measurements. Every guest got a free pair of boots.

Mrs D ordered these:

https://www.lucchese.com/shop/boots/lily/
 

Rambo

The Trollest Of Trolls
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
28,419
Mrs Dropbear and I went to a healthcare vendor shmooze and kickback soirée last week. Usually it’s just free food and drink to ply potential customers - maybe tickets to a game or show.

This time it was at a nice cocktail lounge and in one room the Lucchese boot people were set-up taking measurements. Every guest got a free pair of boots.

Mrs D ordered these:

https://www.lucchese.com/shop/boots/lily/
did you try to go full alligator and get them to pay for it?
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
2,665
did you try to go full alligator and get them to pay for it?
I used to work with a US Marshall who wore alligator boots. He told a great story about personally shooting the alligator in East Texas.

I got measured for some free boots, but declined on ethical grounds like a total arsehole hahah. I’m waiting for the Whites or RMW swag.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
2,665
I'm low-key looking around for a fairly cheap (not Lobbs until I can really commit to this whole summer linen Miami Vice girly shoe that is not a boot business) summer shoe in a EEE fitting and not finding much at all. About all I have found so far is this at $200:
salerno-2187-lighttaupesuede-angle-web.jpg
 

Pauly Chase

Hip Dairy Farmer
Supporter
Messages
6,004
Try Di Bianco. You can find them fairly priced on sale and they are by far some of the most comfiest shoes i own.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,044
Church's, so derivative and definitive in their models and lasts they are just plain boring:

View attachment 32130
The old church's styles and manufacturing always warm my heart, i've always had a soft spot for Church's shoos. As a kid they were the best footwear one could buy in Oz and they were legendary. I'd go church's hunting and see if l could `spot the church's' on the feet of wealthy businessmen, and when i'd spot a pair it would be a highlight of my week.

I love the manly no nonsense styling (not fancy), and l love how they look and are built. Many of the church's aren't made like they were in the old days, but there are still some great models built to the older standards. The spi on the soles is low unfortunately, but they can still make a great shoe. The style and designs are so classic, but the best thing is that they aren't too pretty. They are a very solid classic conservative shoe.

An old grain corrected church's can still look really nice in black. Many men like the look. Some of the grain corrected leather uses very high quality hides, and even Silvano Lattanzi has used it on his $9,000 bespoke shoes. It's not all about using bad leather, but rather many like the look of grain corrected. Again, it is not too pretty but presents that standard look that many are used to.
 

Rambo

The Trollest Of Trolls
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
28,419
I'm low-key looking around for a fairly cheap (not Lobbs until I can really commit to this whole summer linen Miami Vice girly shoe that is not a boot business) summer shoe in a EEE fitting and not finding much at all. About all I have found so far is this at $200:
View attachment 32135
i think both alden and AE have suede loafers. not sure about lasts though.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
2,665
i think both alden and AE have suede loafers. not sure about lasts though.
That’s the Alden EEE in the pic above. Grey looks kinda meh and quality also not great for the price. I’m not ready to commit yet to Alden prices, which just leaves the Sperry as a might fit (it comes in a wide fitting, at least).
 

Rambo

The Trollest Of Trolls
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
28,419
I’m thinking about getting a pair to wear with shorts on weekends - I hate sneakers and flip flops. Just not sure they are four times better then Sperry. Or better than Rancourt.
seriously doubt it. you're paying internet hype prices. i'll stick to my new balances.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
2,665
There’s a Sperry shop not too far from me. I’ll have a look at them in person and decide if the Rancourts are that much better (I do prefer their CXL colour) for what’s ultimately just a beater shoe.

I also want to look at Sperry’s penny loafers.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,044
I like this fella, he is addicted to Northampton shoos. He owns 50 pair. His wife doesn't understand why he needs to own so many, bwahaha.
 

Ryan Owens

Active Member
Messages
42
Does anyone know about Ace Mark's? Price-wise, I can get a pair of Park Avenues as my daily BCTO for roughly the same as their model. I think they do a Blake stitch so I am not sure if I should go down that route. I'm not really a shoe guy, so I'm beholden to your recommendation.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,431
Does anyone know about Ace Mark's? Price-wise, I can get a pair of Park Avenues as my daily BCTO for roughly the same as their model. I think they do a Blake stitch so I am not sure if I should go down that route. I'm not really a shoe guy, so I'm beholden to your recommendation.
I would want to see them in the flesh before taking the risk. Play safe: Crockett & Jones as the gentleman's entry level into top tier shoemaking.
 

Ryan Owens

Active Member
Messages
42
Regarding Crockett and Jones: for a black cap toe oxford, any recommendations? Furthermore, does the hand grade certification justify the extra 130 gbp cost?
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,044
Regarding Crockett and Jones: for a black cap toe oxford, any recommendations? Furthermore, does the hand grade certification justify the extra 130 gbp cost?
the C&J benchgrade are decent, but leather quality and build is very typical midend and nothing great. I can't recall the exact quality of the handgrade, but I know it has better leather quality, and I think it would be definitely worth the extra price.

You want to own a shoe that is quite decent because you will have it for many years to come and come to love it. And yes, having that little bit better shoe will make the difference. Paying 13 gbp per year extra for a better shoe is going to be more than worth it.

C&J benchgrade is decent, but a chap should go alittle further and get to experience something better. It IS worth it!

See....when l wear a C&J benchgrade it is an o.k experience, but when l wear the better built midend shoes (more leather material goes into the building) it goes from an o.k experience to a very good experience for only a little extra in price. See...the better built midend goodyear shoes are built similar to the higher end goodyear shoes. See....for a little bit extra you can enter the real goodyear big boys world for only a little extra IF you know what you are looking for. C&J benchgrade don't do it, camina don't do it, Ace Marks certainly doesn't do it, but C&J handgrade quite likey do it me thinks. Some Church's shoes also do it, certainly the older models always did.

Life is too short not to get a taste of what the big boys are wearing, and a man can experience it for just a bit extra.
 

Kingstonian

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,340
Regarding Crockett and Jones: for a black cap toe oxford, any recommendations? Furthermore, does the hand grade certification justify the extra 130 gbp cost?
Have the Audley on the 337 last but not in black. I am very pleased with it. I like the shape. The channeled sole is holding up very well and it is comfortable.

I also have the Church Consul in black. Church is a very traditional Oxford. Maybe a bit staid for some. 337 last is a bit more elegant but not a trendy fashion shoe.
 

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
Supporter
Messages
6,391
Hey The Shooman I saw another bloke with the pointy toed cuban heel RMs the other night. He said its what he always gets.
They looked a bit pointier than this but maybe I was mistaken.
1560504458959.png
1560504513189.png
 
Last edited:

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,044
Hey The Shooman I saw another bloke with the pointy toed cuban heel RMs the other night. He said its what he always gets.
They looked a bit pointier than this but maybe I was mistaken.
View attachment 32212View attachment 32213
I know the model you are talking about,it is the Kidman. It was discontinued many years ago, but can be special ordered. After seeing Slim Dusty wearing a polished pair on the wiggles video l took a fancy to them and wanted them myself.

see 2:06 in video where Slim does a dance (bad video pic, but original was great in the old days when I used to put the video on pause to check out Slim's boots).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eujXHUyrnv0

The Kidman.
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/rm-williams-boots-everything-you-wanted-to-know.21179/page-287#post-8123106
 

Ryan Owens

Active Member
Messages
42
the C&J benchgrade are decent, but leather quality and build is very typical midend and nothing great. I can't recall the exact quality of the handgrade, but I know it has better leather quality, and I think it would be definitely worth the extra price.

You want to own a shoe that is quite decent because you will have it for many years to come and come to love it. And yes, having that little bit better shoe will make the difference. Paying 13 gbp per year extra for a better shoe is going to be more than worth it.

C&J benchgrade is decent, but a chap should go alittle further and get to experience something better. It IS worth it!

See....when l wear a C&J benchgrade it is an o.k experience, but when l wear the better built midend shoes (more leather material goes into the building) it goes from an o.k experience to a very good experience for only a little extra in price. See...the better built midend goodyear shoes are built similar to the higher end goodyear shoes. See....for a little bit extra you can enter the real goodyear big boys world for only a little extra IF you know what you are looking for. C&J benchgrade don't do it, camina don't do it, Ace Marks certainly doesn't do it, but C&J handgrade quite likey do it me thinks. Some Church's shoes also do it, certainly the older models always did.

Life is too short not to get a taste of what the big boys are wearing, and a man can experience it for just a bit extra.
Have the Audley on the 337 last but not in black. I am very pleased with it. I like the shape. The channeled sole is holding up very well and it is comfortable.

I also have the Church Consul in black. Church is a very traditional Oxford. Maybe a bit staid for some. 337 last is a bit more elegant but not a trendy fashion shoe.
Great advice. Cheers, lads.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,431
Great advice. Cheers, lads.
The adage of my grandfather's generation was that you should always buy the best quality shoes you can afford on the basis that you can tell a man by his shoes and that great shoes will last decades if not a lifetime. I still have C&J's from the mid-1990s and they're the gateway into rugged in the terms of long lasting and quality, luxury shoe makers.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
2,665
AE Sea Island available in a size that fits for under $150. I’m not super wowed by them but I’m trying to convince myself that they’re fine for the purpose.

AB82306C-5342-4E8B-A65A-20FDF4B9BD67.jpeg
 

Journeyman

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Messages
3,188
Most of his shoes are in my size, too - but I can honestly say that I don't need any more shoes. I hardly wear quite a few of the pairs that I already have.

I note that he says, "I am selling my entire collection of beautiful Edward Green Shoes due to a recent need to wear othortic insoles."

I'm not a podiatrist, but I suspect that it's not "a recent need". He's probably needed, or should have been wearing, orthotic insoles for many years but he's finally been diagnosed as needing them.

Edited to add: It's Alan Bee! As I suspected, he has flat feet: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/the-bespoke-shoes-thread.445708/page-81#post-9796027

He says, "I’ve tried possibly every off the shelf remedy for my flat feet and nothing worked."

So rather than actually going to a podiatrist, he tried various solutions for his flat feet while he kept on buying pairs of expensive shoes - and now he has to sell all of his shoes.

On the positive side, this will probably give him an excuse to commission multiple pairs of bespoke shoes...
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,044
Most of his shoes are in my size, too - but I can honestly say that I don't need any more shoes. I hardly wear quite a few of the pairs that I already have.

I note that he says, "I am selling my entire collection of beautiful Edward Green Shoes due to a recent need to wear othortic insoles."

I'm not a podiatrist, but I suspect that it's not "a recent need". He's probably needed, or should have been wearing, orthotic insoles for many years but he's finally been diagnosed as needing them.

Edited to add: It's Alan Bee! As I suspected, he has flat feet: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/the-bespoke-shoes-thread.445708/page-81#post-9796027

He says, "I’ve tried possibly every off the shelf remedy for my flat feet and nothing worked."

So rather than actually going to a podiatrist, he tried various solutions for his flat feet while he kept on buying pairs of expensive shoes - and now he has to sell all of his shoes.

On the positive side, this will probably give him an excuse to commission multiple pairs of bespoke shoes...

and l think he owns numerous Gaziano & Girling exotics too. Is he going to get rid of those? $$$$$$ down the drain.

Now he is in clunkers....shoos that are BIG and f-a-t.
 
Top Bottom