It looks like he does MTO as well. It'll be interesting to know which of those exampels were on standard lasts versus the actual bespoke process.
I get the feeling the `so called' bespoke is probably altering an already pre-made industrial last by
adding to it. Why? Because most have that typical big volume shape that last factories make to fit everyone. They aren't too shapely, they are just big and typical rtw lasts. Instead they would be rtw lasts adjusted to fit a foot better, but never a true individual last because it lacks all the hallmarks of one. Why? Because it is a shape made to sit on a foot....it only
adds to the last and not
subtracts like a true bespoke process would do to perfect the shape. So l think his MTO and bespoke lasts won't look much different on the foot...they would only different because the shoes would fit better, BUT they would still be big volume shoes on the feet that don't really conform to the foot. He won't be
sacrificing lasts by
subtracting from it because it is not true bespoke IMO, instead he would have a bunch of stock lasts that he only
adds to, and that is why they have that industrial shape.
See....again, this maker puts shapes on the feet. He uses industrial lasts that are altered only by
adding.
Cleverley and Berluti bespoke transform the foot into a thing of beauty. BIG difference. True bespoke lasts because it not have look of industrial lasts, instead they are more transformed to fit one foot very closely by
adding and subtracting.
Note: eventhough Cleverley have a basic shape to go off, it is still not the typical industrial last, and it employs
adding and subtracting. BIG difference.
shookt said:
How powerful is the customer in the bespoke process? Do people often overrule the shoemaker in terms of last/leather/stylistic choices? Or are the parameters usually quite general and then the rest is up to the shoemaker?
I don't know because it depends on each maker, but l think some makers are more open to individual style choices now. Why? The internet has changed how things are done IMO.
The other issue l wanted to mention is the `igent effect'...ie, having shoos that are mutton done up as lamb. In other words, igents who have the wrong type of shoes in flashy designs and colours and heavily antiqued. They mix ordinary shoes with cindarella colours and designs, so now we have antiqued Vass in various colours and all types of monstrosities because people with no artistic sense have free reign to do whatever they want. IMO, in the old days the availability of antiquing services was limited, and shoemakers also saved clients from their own stupidity by limiting crazy ideas for shoes that didn't make sense.
See...with the free reign of hopeless non artistic clients has come a rise in shoo monstrosities. Igents need to be given limited options because they need to be saved from themselves. So many have little idea. Left brained thinkers. Pthh.
