The Canvas: A Proper-Fitting Shirt

Pimpernel Smith

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I think it's a pity to throw away a shirt because of a worn out collar (or cuffs), but I never went for the option to have it (them) replaced, so would like to have some feedback from people who have had it done. Of course the only option, unlike you had a bespoke shirt with some extra cloth available, is to have the collar (cuffs) in white.
T&A will redo the collars and cuffs including on the RTW. Never had any worn out or get discoloured enough to need replacing.
 

florisgreen

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T&A will redo the collars and cuffs including on the RTW. Never had any worn out or get discoloured enough to need replacing.
Wondering how good the result would be. I mostly have Attolini shirts, would they do it, at which price? Or maybe I have to find a small artisanal shirtmaker. :thinking:
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Wondering how good the result would be. I mostly have Attolini shirts, would they do it, at which price? Or maybe I have to find a small artisanal shirtmaker. :thinking:
They need the cloth of course, unless you're going for white collar and cuffs. It's well doable.
 

sirloin

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My current camiceria provides extra fabric with each order as a standard. Have yet to need the service, but will take advantage within a season or two.
As others have mentioned, it’s not feasable for all cloths due to fading.
 

florisgreen

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Can anybody explain what a "collo a bombarozzo" (bombarozzo collar) is?
Screenshot (440).png


The descriptions says:
Round collar not fused upside down with roll "BOMBAROZZO COLLAR"
D'AVINO NAPOLI TAILOR.

In particular I would know what technically means upside down.
 

florisgreen

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Screenshot (467).png
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Beautiful fabric in block stripes. Not a fan though of that hand stitching at the collar and cuffs, nor of that kind of cuffs, whose technical name I don't know.
 

florisgreen

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I have no idea. I just ask to make the shape sharply rounded along the edge and move the button closer to the wrist. I like the tulip-like shape.

Actually I mean the double twisted (?) cuff: the pattern does not run parallel to the sleeve stitching, but twists at both sides inwards.
 

Ambrosius08

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Actually I mean the double twisted (?) cuff: the pattern does not run parallel to the sleeve stitching, but twists at both sides inwards.
Ah, that. I don’t know about its name either, but the fabric goes like that so it fits ergonomically against the wrist, which has a naturally conical shape. Just like collar bands, which are always cut in a slight curve instead of as a straight piece.
D8BEC6FB-2B0D-4754-B8AB-906C732470D3.jpeg
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Can anybody explain what a "collo a bombarozzo" (bombarozzo collar) is?View attachment 40222

The descriptions says:
Round collar not fused upside down with roll "BOMBAROZZO COLLAR"
D'AVINO NAPOLI TAILOR.

In particular I would know what technically means upside down.
Isn't that the standard ''cutaway'' collar? Not a big fan, open neck doesn't work and you need the beefiest tie and knot possible.
 

florisgreen

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Isn't that the standard ''cutaway'' collar? Not a big fan, open neck doesn't work and you need the beefiest tie and knot possible.

Shown is undoubtedly a cut-away collar. But "bombarozzo" (bulge) is apparently something about the construction (vele al contrario), producing a nice roll.
It seems however that nobody here is aware of this technical feature.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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T&A have some contrast white collar and cuff shirts back-in:

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Along with the Gordon Gecko always mentioned on the blue one, they also state now as worn by the artist, Christo, who was this chap:

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A quick search on the net and Christo liked his T&A shirts, sans tie and contrast collars.

I've quite a few contrast collars, and like Christo, I prefer without ties, but definitely not with jeans.

Might buy the lilac and pink one when I next get paid.
 

doghouse

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I have a Turnbull blue contrast collar shirt, though it's more of a Pacific blue than the one above.

Terrible old picture of it here.

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Pimpernel Smith

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I have bought a wide knitted silk tie. I thought I had made a mistake. Maybe not.
The thin knitted ties are too dated and only work with button downs. I've a couple of J.Press ones - navy and black - spot the difference and there's no shirt I can wear them with now.
 

Panama

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The thin knitted ties are too dated and only work with button downs. I've a couple of J.Press ones - navy and black - spot the difference and there's no shirt I can wear them with now.
I have three knitted ties. A black thin knitted tie for funerals or to go Sean Connery Bond. It's from John Henric and a lot less expensive than the T&A version. I have recently bought a navy blue thin and a pink wide knitted ties from Walker Slater. I was going to return the wide one, but missed the return period...
 
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Panama

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Has anyone gone for a plain silk shirt?
Either in the books or the movies, they were a favourite of Bond, James Bond. Along with Sea Island cotton shirts....
 

Panama

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I have three knitted ties. A black thin knitted tie for funerals or to go Sean Connery Bond. It's from John Henric and a lot less expensive than the T&A version. I have recently bought a navy blue thin and a pink wide knitted ties from Walker Slater. I was going to return the wide one, but missed the return period...
20210808_185725.jpg


I think a light blue one, similar to the above, is now on the wish list.
 

doghouse

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Has anyone gone for a plain silk shirt?
Either in the books or the movies, they were a favourite of Bond, James Bond. Along with Sea Island cotton shirts....
I have one from T&A. It's alright to wear on a lark. Wouldn't want to wear one every day.
 

Lumpen

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Shown is undoubtedly a cut-away collar. But "bombarozzo" (bulge) is apparently something about the construction (vele al contrario), producing a nice roll.
It seems however that nobody here is aware of this technical feature.


Put more clues, Sarto yet can´t visualice it. For the pic is a 4,5 cm tall collar with front also very high and like 8 cms of collar peak points but nothing different from a shirt with that features at least from that pic.

Those piramidal cuffs of the Inglese shirt were done in Kiton when Sarto was learning from their masters like 10 years ago, nothing new.
 

florisgreen

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Has anyone gone for a plain silk shirt?
Either in the books or the movies, they were a favourite of Bond, James Bond. Along with Sea Island cotton shirts....

Never thought of a mens shirt in silk. As I see it's too feminine, cotton and linen are the only options.
 

florisgreen

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It is, if you have a silk jacket you'll notice it's cool.

Possible, I only have jackets with a (small) silk part in the mix.
I remain sceptical though, there must be a reason because neither weaving producers nor shirt makers offer any options in silk.

I would only wear silk as a knitwear garment or as underwear (nowadays very difficult to find).
 

belinmad

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I remain sceptical though, there must be a reason because neither weaving producers nor shirt makers offer any options in silk.

I think this is mostly because silk is currently associated with tacky/luxury fashion, and has fallen out of grace. But some high end shirt makers never stopped offering them. Sexton, for instance, has a full line of silk shirts.

 

florisgreen

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I think this is mostly because silk is currently associated with tacky/luxury fashion, and has fallen out of grace. But some high end shirt makers never stopped offering them. Sexton, for instance, has a full line of silk shirts.


Spot on, to me silk is tacky.
 

Ambrosius08

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I remember an old Apparel Arts illustration from the 1930’s, where silk was stated to be an exceptionally nice material for summer, especially for shirts. There was a picture of a gent in black tie, sporting a white pleated evening shirt made of s.

Silk as a material has long been a staple in British tailoring. Here is Roger Moore in Cyril Castle’s ivory dinner jacket made of dupioni silk. Quite elegant, and far from being tacky:

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Pimpernel Smith

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Now this is something! Would be the perfect summer substitute for a traditional woolen tweed jacket.
My grandfather had a quite a few silk jackets in that style. So when you see photos of old timers in what looks like heavy woollen jackets on the beach or on holiday, they might actually be silk.

There was a time they seemed to disappear from the market. I bought the top one two years ago now from the English Hatter in The Hague and the blue one is the same cloth as the Cordings Sudbury jacket. Assume somewhere in China.

They're not four season jackets, they're summer jackets and you won't get away with them winter, no way. They're unbelievably cool.
 

Panama

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Never thought of a mens shirt in silk. As I see it's too feminine, cotton and linen are the only options.
Bond wore silk shirts, as did Connery in a Bond movie. I have a few cotton shirts that feel like silk. I don't think there will be a big difference other that silk dress shirts have gone out of fashion.
 
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